August 27, 2008

National: Take It Slow

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Welcome to the first day of coverage of this weekend's Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco. I'll be at the event, snapping photos, talking to participants and stuffing my face, and you can attend vicariously through me by reading the coverage right here. It's going to be a tough job wandering around collecting edible samples, but with your support, I'll get through it. To find out just what this weekend is all about, I got on the phone with Anya Fernald, Slow Food Nation's executive director.

Hanging around, staring at that victory garden outside City Hall, waiting for Slow Food Nation to start, is like nibbling bread while you wait for your entrée.

In this case, that entrée is a local, grass-fed steak with a side of tomatoes from the garden. The bread is homemade from organic flour, and the butter was just churned yesterday at a farm in Marin County.

“Middle America, 30 years ago, this was the norm,” Anya Fernald, executive director of Slow Food Nation, told me, as we chatted about the upcoming Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco this weekend. Part festival, part conference, part exhibition, the four-day American food celebration will draw an expected 50,000 attendees overall, Fernald said.

The weekend includes tasting expos, a marketplace, workshops, panel discussions, special dinners, as well as things like hikes and farm tours, all to encourage attendees to take a second look at the way they—and we, as a society—eat.

The idea is to wean Americans off our current dependence on processed and fast foods, and to “build momentum and demand for an American food system that is safer, healthier and more socially just," according to Fernald’s press statement.

“We want 10 percent of the attendees of this event to make one change ever day, every week. We It might be a small step like I’m going to cook dinner for my family this week or plant a garden, it might be I’m going to learn about food politics or pack a bag lunch… We’re not talking about radical life changes. This is about realistic, doable every day changes that everybody can make,” Fernald told me.

Fernald was quick to address and dispel any charge of elitism. “When did making your own jam become a privilege of the elite? Up until 1950, really a sign of poverty was making your own jam, growing your own garden, and people strove to become part of the middle class by rejecting that,” she said. The slow food movement aims to return to those values.

“Looking at that presumption that this is an elitist movement, I think America has been bamboozled into thinking that fasts food is the food of the masses,” Fernald said. “We need to push back against that notion that fast food is American food.”

But how can a bunch of activists making a big noise about sustainable food in a city as “blue”—downright aquamarine—as San Francisco?

“We’re drinking American wine, beer, we’re making pickles, we’re having dinner with friends, we’re planting gardens,” Fernald said. “It’s really “red state”’ values we’re talking about but they happen to be about food and they’re somehow associated with the left.”

The weekend is packed with things to do, and participants will have the opportunity spend as much time and money as they want. Free activities and exhibitions such as the slow marketplace and slow hikes, compete with ticketed events including panel discussions, dinners, a concert, field trips, and tasting exhibitions, running from $10 to more than $100.

Of all the 115 or so events that comprise the weekend, Fernald pointed to the slow marketplace as a cornerstone. That’s where attendees can buy the produce, grain, and small-scale products central to the movement. It’s also adjacent to the victory garden at City Hall.

Planted in July, the garden’s crops will be harvested and distributed by the San Francisco Food Bank over the weekend. The name comes from the World War II era, when individual families grew food on their own small plots.

Small-scale farming, small-scale food preparation, small, slow dinners with friends—these are the focuses of one massive event. It’s going to be a delicious weekend.

Slow Food Nation [Official Site]

[Photo: The City Hall victory garden, via Slow Food Nation Blog]

We Didn't Start The Fire

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Many major historic events have taken place in Boston. Paul Revere's late-night escapade on a horse. Barrels of expensive tea sinking to the bottom of the harbor. The passing of gay marriage. But for Fenway residents and those who know a good burrito, the fire that tore down El Pelon Taqueria was not only historic, it was tragic. When we heard the news, a little bit of us died inside. Okay, that's overly dramatic. But we shed a little tear over our memories of sitting on picnic tables enjoying a casual burrito with friends between classes. Luckily, our faith was finally restored when we heard that El Pelon had risen like Lazarus, bringing the Fenway area its' best burrito joint once again.

While we admit Anna's Taqueria brings us to a certain level of ecstasy, one of the best parts of El Pelon's success is that it's not part of a chain. There will always be a place in our hearts (and stomachs) for an El Pelon burrito. With most items under $5, their burritos are easy on the wallet and perfect for that college student who spends the majority of their cash across the street at Bradley Liquors (Not that we were ever familiar with such behavior).

So if you're up in the Fenway to catch a baseball game, or looking for a great place to hang in between classes, stop by El Pelon and tell them how thrilled you are that they're up and running again. Ole!

El Pelon [MenuPages]
El Pelon [Official Site]

[Photo: We Seat You]

National: Move Over Umami

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Umami -- that savory taste of meat -- gets all the press. Small wonder then that the two of the four other tastes (sweet, salty, sour and bitter) are so aptly named. Perhaps now's the chance for this flavor darling to get squeezed out of the limelight... at least for a little bit.

Fox News reports that scientists may have discovered a sixth taste. Celebrating this new discovery would be a bit premature, however, as (ta-da!) this is the taste of calcium. Yes, calcium: of broccoli, spinach, and collard greens.

You're probably not alone if you try to avoid these leafy veggies — but that may be precisely the fault of these new-found taste receptors: calcium in large quantities tends to have an unpleasantly bitter taste.

There may be reason to rejoice about this discovery, after all, according to Michael Tordoff, a behavioral geneticist at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia.

People don't consume as much calcium as nutritionists would like, and one reason for this is that foods high in calcium don't taste good to many people. Tweaking the taste could encourage a calcium-deficient population to consume more of this key nutrient.

That's um, great and everything, but in the meantime – pass the pork, would you?

Yes, MSG, the Secret Behind the Savor [NY Times]
Sixth (and Fifth) 'Taste' Possibly Discovered [Fox]

[Photo: via aquatone282/flickr]

State Of The Union

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Oh, the good ol' State of the Union Addresses. Nothing on television is more compelling than watching the President address Congress like they're a giant herd of sheep. We're totally kidding by the way. Sitting through one of those speeches is about as entertaining as Last Call with Carson Daly. But there's another union we prefer, and apparently the rest of Boston agrees: Union Bar & Grille, on Washington Street in the South End. (Or as the Chamber of Commerce and lots of really hip people like to call it, SoWa.) Union actually exemplifies its name because all types of cuisines are brought together to form a melting pot of deliciousness. For example, the brunch menu consists of everything from our favorite heuvos rancheros, yet also offers a grilled Reuben with cabbage slaw. Their menu really is a union of different flavors. No wonder the Improper declared it the "Best American" restaurant in town.

Not only famous for their delectable brunch, Union has a pretty lively bar scene due to their extensive wine list and full bar offerings. So even if you're not hungry enough for a meal, cleanse your palate with a cocktail. No matter which meal you come through those doors for, we have to admit that the state of this Union is pretty delicious.

Union Bar & Grille [MenuPages]
Union Bar and Grille [Official Site]

[Photo: About.com]

FYI: Fleeting Glimpses

• A takeover-style robbery in Hayward, Calif. is just the latest in a wave of such crimes. [SF Chronicle]

• A much friendlier trend is also taking off in the form of underground restaurants. [New York Times]

• Could hot dogs in the school cafeteria cause colon cancer? [AP]

• Chicago-area rail commuters face last call in their beloved bar cars. [Chicago Tribune]

August 26, 2008

National: 100 Billion People Can't Be Wrong

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While it seems like only yesterday that we mourned the passing of Momofuku Ando, inventor of the instant ramen soup beloved by college students and poverty-stricken recent grads the world over, let us today raise a cup (o' noodles) to the fiftieth birthday of the beloved rectangular prism of noodley deliciousness.

Ando invented the pre-cooked, freeze-dried noodles in 1958, when he was 48 years old. When he was 61 he invented their kissing cousin, cup noodles. "In life," he was known to remark, "there is no such thing as too late."

This year, demand for his inventions is expected to surpass 100 billion servings. Staggering, yes, but surprising? No. As the man famously (and perhaps cryptically) said, "mankind is Noodlekind."

Iconic Noodle Celebrates 50th Anniversary [NPR]

[Photo: Ramen selection, via davidrmunson's Flickr]

Seven Minutes In Heaven

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During our senior year of college, we spent our afternoons and weekends working retail, lugging shoe boxes up and down stairs while attempting to convince women (and the occasional man) to purchase $500 stilettos. After closing the store each evening, we'd argue with the manager, who was determined to get us fired. (She eventually succeeded). Naturally, we sought comfort in one of the most famous methods of dealing with ones' problems: Drinking! We did this each evening at The Sevens, Beacon Hill's neighborhood pub that for many years has served as a place to find a stool and forget your problems.

Unlike some of the rowdier Beacon Hill area bars, The Sevens is a great place to grab a seat with a friend and have a conversation over beers because you can actually hear each other over the music. Despite Beacon Hill's hoity-toity image, this is a bar where all types come together. CEO's mix with mechanics and construction workers chat up heiresses. It's just a comfortable, laid back atmosphere perfect for drinking, or having a delicious sandwiches or burger. And ignore that business about seven minutes. We're sure you'll stay much longer.

The Sevens [MenuPages]

[Photo: Global Hermit]

National: Typos On The Menu

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Last week Miss Manners touched on the subject of correcting typos in retail store signage. Judith Martin took the nit-picking, though highly sympathetic, letter writer gently to task for the greatest etiquette infraction of all — correcting others — but then pointed out that it's not rude to inform the store's management of their public spelling mistakes. The letter-writer had alerted a salesperson who, Miss Manners pointed out, likely couldn't have cared less.

Same goes for restaurants, we would think. As a professional menu-dealer-with, we find typos everywhere, both at work and after. But does it do to correct these? It's a given your server won't care. In fact, unless you actually need to send something back or get more ketchup, your server probably won't even listen to you when you report on how the food is.

Back in June, Jane Black wrote a column in the Washington Post advocating an extremely passive-aggressive method of communicating menu typos: She describes a daydream wherein,

I enter a restaurant, order and sweetly ask the waiter if I can "hold on to the menu" during dinner. Then, using a distinctive purple pen, I discreetly copy-edit the descriptions of the dishes...

'Who was that anonymous proofreader?' chefs would whisper to one another. Correct-a-girl strikes again! Eliminating menu mistakes, one restaurant at a time.

Right. That menu would be tossed in the trash so quickly it would beat Correct-a-girl to the curb. The blog Stuff White People Like promptly skewered the piece ("The presence of an improper apostrophe on a menu can ruin an otherwise delicious meal for a white person").

But seriously, menu typos can be galling, and some obsessive types just can't see their way toward letting it rest. What's the best way to get the corrections to the menu-meister? Find out who that person is, and tell them. Most restaurants won't take it personally, just like they won't take constructive criticism of the food personally.

After the meal, if the typo seriously still bothers you, get up, ask the host who writes the menu, then either ask to speak to that person or convey a message via the host, indicating the typo. That's your best shot at getting your voice heard, but really, is it worth the trouble? (Sigh) Actually, yes. The restaurant, concerned for its reputation, probably does want to hear where it can improve, and the rest of us will dine easier, knowing Correct-a-girl (or boy) is out there, watching.

How to Proofread, Politely [Miss Manners/Washington Post]
The Art of Criticism [Table Manners/Chow]
Typos a la Carte, Ever A Specialty of the House [Washington Post]
White Problems — Typos on Menus [Stuff White People Like]

Photo: Via Aaron Gustafson/flickr]

Topical Solution

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There are certain things that Boston is notorious for. The Sox, for example. The television show Cheers. An accent that lacks the ability to pronounce r's. But if Boston is famous for any restaurant, it has to be Top of the Hub. Located on the highest level of the Prudential Center, the very Charlie and the Great Glass Elevator-esque elevator whisks guests up to this elegant restaurant that boasts the best view of Boston, hands down. However, people are often hesitant to visit the Hub because of the hefty price tag. Well, if there's one thing we know how to do, it's find a bargain. If you can't afford the all out, multiple course meal, we suggest visiting simply for dessert. A last minute phone reservation has always found us a spot at Top of the Hub for late night desserts of Creme Brulee with fresh berries and Chantilly cream, or the array of freshly baked cookies with berries and cream (which is so elaborate that the kitchen needs 10-15 minutes notification to prepare it!) If your sweet tooth isn't too interested, maybe your thirst will conquer. Top of the Hub features a jazz lounge with premier acts every night of the week. You won't find your bartender to be a sloppy college kid straight from the Applebee's bar, either. The Hub's bartenders are true connoisseurs of the cocktail. So no matter what you do, make sure to find your way to the Top. It's not so lonely after all.

Top of the Hub [MenuPages]
Top of the Hub [Official Site]

[Photo: Cache Boston]

FYI: We Are Never Going To The Ladies' Room Again

• At least eleven listeriosis-related deaths in Canada; everyone is in a tizzy (especially the meat suppliers). [Bloomberg]

• Utah has to get 6 million carp out of Utah Lake, on the condition that they do something with the dead fish. [AP]

• MSG consumption is apparently linked to obesity. (Hey kids! Correlation is not causation!) [NYT]

• San Francisco is gearing up for this weekend's Slow Food Nation Festival. (MP's own Adam Martin will be there!) [SFChron]

• A man was found in the ceiling above the women's restroom in a Florida restaurant, spying on female patrons. [TCPalm]

August 25, 2008

National: What's The (New) Deal With Irradiation?

The news hook on our earlier post came on the heels of a somewhat anachronistic decision by the FDA last week to allow food producers to irradiate spinach and lettuce, infusing them with just enough radioactivity to kill the micro-organisms that cause hazardous infections. From the Associated Press:

The Grocery Manufacturers Association had originally petitioned the FDA seeking to expand use of irradiation to many more types of produce several years ago. But in wake of the 2006 E. coli outbreak from spinach — which killed three people and sickened nearly 200 — plus a list of lettuce recalls, the industry group asked the FDA to rule on the leafy greens first.

The FDA still is considering what other types of produce might be OK to irradiate. Often mentioned as possible are tomatoes and peppers, which have been the focus of investigators trying to trace this summer's nationwide salmonella outbreak.

That's interesting. It's not like the FDA is keeping the decision a secret. Hell, it's in the AP. But why isn't last week's announcement on the FDA's website? The last mention of irradiation came in June, and last week's decision apparently didn't warrant a press release.

Remember when, a few hours ago, we said that just a modicum of forthcoming information could make the difference between a careful populace and a panic-inducing epidemic? Well, when big, faceless government organizations and big, faceless lobbying groups get together to talk about injecting scary technology into people's food, it helps to put out a bit of information on that plan. Otherwise, you get films like this:

FDA: Irradiating spinach, lettuce OK to kill germs [AP]
Search Results: Irradiation [FDA]

The Monday Report: Just Another Manic Monday

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Another week of early mornings begins. Feel free to cry and throw your alarm clock on the ground. Just don't kick someone in the face like that Tae-Kwon Do Olympian from Cuba. That's just mean.

Openings

Beacon Hill: We're excited to say that the Beacon Hill rumor mill declares that b.good will be filling the space left empty by the Spotted Apron at the bottom of Cambridge Street. Seriously, if one more nail salon opens in Beacon Hill we're gonna get pissed. [Boston On The Go]

Brookline Village: T. Rex Taqueria is opening (hopefully next week) on School Street, and the buzz is positive. No, it's not dinosaur themed, just a strange name. [Chowhound]

Downtown Crossing: Good news! Marliave has reopened under new ownership. Downtown Crossing looks like it is getting revamped with new restaurant openings. Let's hope this continues! [Boston Restaurant Talk]

Leather District: Al's State Street Cafe is opening a second location in Lincoln Plaza, appropriately named Al's South Street. [Chowhound]

Porter Square: Stone Hearth Pizza is coming to Porter on Mass Ave. With successful locations in Belmont, Sudbury, and Needham, we assume their thin-crust pizza made with organic and local ingredients will go over well in Cambridge.
[Chowhound]

Theater District: What used to be the West Street Grille will soon become Max and Dylan's. Click the link for an extremely informative and elaborate craigslist post. [Craigslist]

Woburn: The South End's popular Masa is opening a second location in Woburn, of all places. We think this will be a great after work spot for the cubicle dwellers of route 3. [Boston Restaurant Talk]

Closings:

South End: Thai Village has closed its doors on Tremont Street. It was probably very hard to complete with House of Siam. [Boston Restaurant Talk]

Sold

East Cambridge: Hold back your tears, B Side has been sold! We're not sure what's going in, but the owners of 2 popular bars in Amherst and Northampton are supposedly taking over. Let's hope their new venture can live up to the B-Side. [Chowhound]

[Photo: Blogging Boston]

National: Food Safety Jitters

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Is it just us or has this been a banner year for insane food-safety stories? First there was that gigantic meat recall, then the gigantic salmonella mystery, then just last week a Chicago man sued a restaurant where he claims he acquired a nine-food tapeworm in 2006. Also, Canada is in the middle of a deadly food poisoning outbreak.

Now comes news from the Tulsa World that one person has died and at least another 11 — and possibly as many as 20 &mdash were apparently infected with E. coli bacteria after eating at a "local restaurant" in Locust Grove (Mayes County), Oklahoma.

It is rather amazing that the newspaper shied away from naming the restaurant, or explaining its reason for omitting the name. Though in the wake of the reporting on that that salmonella scare, maybe it shouldn't be that surprising. In that incident, federal authorities took months to determine that the culprit in the scare was not tomatoes, but rather serrano and jalepeno peppers imported from Mexico. They only uncovered the truth after Minnesota scientists put them on the scent. Meanwhile, tomato growers lost around a quarter-billion dollars.

The tomato industry will survive that scare, but unless it is part of a huge chain, one restaurant in one small town in Oklahoma will probably not survive the death of a patron. So it's understandable that either Mayes County health officials or the World's editorial board withheld the name, pending confirmation of the infection source.

Isn't it scary that you could be put at risk of a serious illness to save the reputation of a business? On the other hand, wouldn't it be unfair for a restaurant to be associated with a deadly E. coli outbreak if it is later cleared? Unfortunately, there seems to be no universally good way to handle a health threat such as this.

It seems, however, that a good rule of thumb for public health officials would be to provide as much information as possible, as early as possible, occasionally omitting a detail that may be incriminating. For example, if health officials had reported earlier in the week that a trend may be afoot, perhaps that one fatal case would have avoided dining out. Of course, it may have taken all week to identify the trend.

In the end, restaurant patrons just have to accept that there will always be some small risk in having others cook for them. Risks can be reduced by ordering cooked food over raw and checking out health inspection scores, but they can never be fully eliminated.

One dead, 11 sickened in possible E. coli outbreak [Tulsa World]
Canadian Officials Link 4th Death to Food-Poisoning Outbreak [Bloomberg]
Food Safety [USDA]

[Photo: Via Meepocity/flickr]

Craving: Crepes

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We used think they were for kids who couldn't seem to get over that semester they spent studying abroad, but we've realized something about crepes in Boston: they're amazing. They might not always have that authentic Parisian vibe, but they're sure filling and pretty easy on the wallet.

Arrow Street Crepes is Harvard Square's answer to all foods folded. It's a teeny, sometimes cramped space, but what near Harvard - aside from those massive academic buildings - isn't? To balance out the scholarly madness, we often opt for The Hippie - green apples and cheddar are a winning combo. Open until 10pm in the H Square, that's something to smile about.

For lunch down the road in Davis, Mr. Crepe (51 Davis Square, (617) 623-0661) has something for everyone. We know many lament the closing of the Someday Cafe, but we've been forced to move on. Namely, ingredients like avocado, Gruyere, bananas and Nutella left us no choice. A great coffee and tea selection round out any crepe-based meal in this rather spacious cafe.

And over in Brookline, Paris Creperie crams a whole lot of goodness into another narrow, awkward space. But we always try to find a seat anyway. The staff are a young friendly bunch who bring your goodies right to your table, and the combo of fresh crepes (we like Lily's Crepe - asparagus for the win!), fresh coffee, and fun smoothies make this a great spot before or after catching a flick at the next door Coolidge Corner Theatre. Cultured eating and viewing = perfection.

Arrow Street Crepes [Official Site]
Paris Creperie [MenuPages]

[Photo: VirtualErn/Flickr]

FYI: But What Will Students Sled On Now?

• In a food-recall heavy summer, another one! This time it's Pepperoni Pizza Hot Pockets that consumers should avoid, at the risk of biting down into plastic. Mmm. [Market Watch]

• North Korea has created a new soy and corn based noodle to combat hunger problems. The noodles have more protein and fat and "delay feelings of hunger." [BBC]

• Some colleges and universities across the country are eschewing plastic trays in their cafeterias for reasons of being "green" and "not wasting water." The number of broken dishes does not seem to have gone up... yet. [AP]

• Hey, have you heard about that economy? In another sign of end-times, school lunch prices are also going up! [NYT]

• Healthy food prices are not just a US problem: fresh produce is a luxury item for Aboriginal communities in Australia. [ABC News Australia]

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