May 16, 2008

Viewing Pleasure: Vegan Delights

Recently, the Chicago Diner celebrated its 25th anniversary, doing justice to their slogan "Meat Free Since '83." Let's celebrate with a spread of tasty vegan dishes available right now around Chicago!

• "Sausage" and "Egg" Biscuits ($7.95) at Chicago Diner, via peace.love.vegan:

chicago diner sausage and egg biscuits.jpg


• "Meatball" sub ($6.29) and chili cheese fries ($3.99) at Veggie Bite, via jessi-girl:

veggie bite meatball sub and chili cheese fries.jpg


• Stuffed Mushrooms ($8.00) at Karyn's Raw Vegan Gourmet, via cbrowncolors:

karyn's raw stuffed mushrooms.jpg


• Vegetables Combo at The Elephant, via minvervah:

the elephant's vegetable combo.jpg


• Slash cupcake ($3.50; probably gone but if enough of you ask, maybe they'll make it again!) at Bleeding Heart via The Bleeding Heart Bakery:

bleeding heart's slash cupcake.jpg


No one ever said vegan needed to be healthy. Or attractive. Or involve vegetables. But it's usually at least one of those things!

Anyway, maybe try skipping meat for one meal this weekend? It's better for the environment and all that.

Across The Menuniverse: Wanderlust

Solar System.jpg• Can truly authentic Southwestern food be found in the Northeast? [MP: Boston]

• One Chicago hotel restaurant has gone buck wild for pastrami-smoked salmon. [MP: Chicago]

• File under "strange interpretations of regional specialties": vegetarian scrapple. [MP: Philadelphia]

• Rest in peace, airline bags of peanuts. [MP: San Francisco]

• Let's all go to Buenos Aires! [MP: South Florida]

Are Nearly Free Groceries Worth It?

bicycle groceries.jpg

There's an amazing news item making the rounds on the interwebs about this Atlanta-area woman who can feed a family of five on as low as $10 a week by being the world champion of clipping coupons:

The family's grocery bill was $200 to $250 dollars a week. She began clipping coupons, trying to match them up with sales in the weekly fliers from grocery and drug stores. As Crissy's husband Joe puts it, "At first it kind of blew my mind because she'd bring things home and I'd be like is this legit or what? Are we going to get in trouble?"

It was legit alright.

And it took a bit of research and work. It still does.

Crissy says it takes her about an hour a week to get ready for her shopping trip, a trip that takes three to four hours and involves three to seven stores in the area...

Over the course of the article, Crissy buys $140 worth of household stuff at the CVS for less than $5 and about $50 worth of groceries at the Publix for about $15, using coupons combined with sales and promotions.

This kind of extreme money-saving discipline is very impressive, especially with the price of staples like rice skyrocketing lately. But is it worth it? This kind of lifestyle necessarily means being subjected to the whims of retailers and their stock. As much as we hate shelling out $6 for in-season asparagus, we would hate more to feel like we couldn't buy that asparagus this week because it wasn't on sale. But then, we don't have three kids.

Another troublesome thing about this shopping method is the amount of time and travel it requires. Crissy drives all over town. Did you catch that part where she spends about five hours a week at this and hits three to five stores per trip? We simply wouldn't have the patience or the gas money. Though, the idea seems to be you do this extreme money saving shopping so that you can have gas money.

Would it be way too San Francisco hippy of us to suggest that Crissy ditch the car and ride her bicycle to the farmers' market to buy cheap, in-season stuff, then do her extreme money saving at the CVS on the way home? Probably. Not everybody can live like that, we know.

But doing errands sans car is more feasible than it sounds, we learned when our car died in 2006. We never replaced that ancient Saab, and the combination of a large messenger bag and 16-speed Fuji has served us fine ever since. Why pick up another reliance (on coupons) to pay for the gasoline reliance you may not need anyway? Divorcing the car has left us free to spend more money on higher quality goods in other areas. Like $6 asparagus in May. No, that's still ridiculous.

Coupon queen spends $10/week on family groceries [Boing Boing]
If I Didn't See It With My Own Eyes... [11Alive]

[Photo: Jimforest/flickr]

Reader + Sun-Times = Mississippi Tamales & A Giant Embarrasing Error!

except tamale lady.jpg

Wait, this is really funny sort of! We were reading the Sun-Times' dining section today and saw Thomas Witom's review for Fahrenheit in St Charles, and something about it struck us as odd and then we realized...Fahrenheit closed unexpectedly in late April! So obviously this piece was filed a long time ago and by no fault of Tom's, didn't make its tragic run until today. We guess it's an honest enough mistake, but this is what happens when you slash newspaper editorial budgets. Sad!

Everything else pales in comparison. Pat Bruno's contribution today is a roundup of cheap eats, and his picks are reasonable.

Meanwhile, at the Reader, Mike Sula went on the hunt for the elusive local Mississippi Tamale — much like its Mexican progenitor except made with cornmeal — and with the help of the good people at the Southern Foodways Alliance, found some! Ready? The place is called J’s Fresh Meats & Food Mart, and it's on 5615 W Madison Street. The number is (773) 287-3030, but best of luck getting someone on the phone.

Dining easy to warm to at Fahrenheit [Sun-Times]
The fire's out [The Extrovert]
Good meals for $10 or less [Sun-Times]
On the Trail of the Delta Tamale [Reader]

[Photo: (Except Tamale Lady) via ericsmithrocks/flickr]

FYI: Even If There's A Recovery, It Won't Help You

• Shh don't tell anyone, but global food prices fell in April [BBC]
• Bush farm bill veto to fail; BigMac, Bama & Billary miss the vote [WaPo]
• Blind item: which country on the brink of civil war faces starvation? [NYTimes]
• Wal-Mart to bravely start serving food in its small-format UK stores [Reuters]
• Food purveyors too economically fragile to display at restaurant show [Trib]
• Dry dog food has been identified as a potential salmonella vector [FOX]

May 15, 2008

TOC + Tribune: Are You A Foodie Or A High-Strung Whinger?

<pauline's five egg omelet.jpg

The Tribune's on fire today! Between the point-counterpoint on restaurant pet peeves and the paper's continuing excellence in breakfast coverage, our attention has definitely been kept.

• Phil Vettel says: service is more important than food quality! [Tribune]

• Monica Eng says: food quality is more important than service! [Tribune]

• And together they say: the most important thing is who you're eating with. (Aww. Unless you're dining solo, of course!) [Tribune]

Meanwhile, on the breakfast beat, Chris Borrelli is excited about:

• What celebrities eat for breakfast (answer: nothing too crazy) [Tribune]

• Whether the high price of eggs will affect the five-egg omelet at Pauline's (answer: in price only) [Tribune]

TOC doesn't have much editorial stuff this week, but note their Farmer's Market calendar, which you can compare to the Tribune's for reference. Also, the interview with Ben Roche, Moto's pastry chef, is pretty good.

Review time!

• David Tamarkin has a good experience at Big Jones, despite itself. The cocktails were weird and it's unclear how tethered the restaurant is to the Southern narrative, but the food is tasty and well-executed [TOC]

• Antipasti, pasta and rectangular pizzas are a hit at I Monelli, which is BYO. Skip the desserts [TOC]

• Who reviews Schwa and Green Zebra as part of one review? Oh wait, it's Phil. We guess it makes sense to lump the good restaurants into one thing? No, obviously these each deserve their own treatment. Then again, to be fair, these are both re-reviews, and they both get three stars [Tribune]

[Photo: Pauline's five egg omelet via Zesmerelda/flickr]

Bourbon & Politics: A Deadly Combination

0513evanwilliams.jpg

Of the many tragicomic sidelines to the 2008 election, two bargain-basement bourbon makers are fighting a publicity stunt "war" over presidential candidates.

Connecticut's Jeremiah Weed Bourbon, a cult favorite of United States Air Force fighter pilots, recently accused fellow bargain whiskey Evan Williams of playing favorites in the 2008 election by sending complementary bottles of bourbon to noted shot lover Hillary Clinton and Barack Obama. Via the "Mr. Jeremiah Weed Speaks" blog, the distillery accused Evan Williams of trying to sway Kentucky voters:

"It has now come to my attention that my good friends at Evan Williams Bourbon have sent bottles of their product to Senators Clinton and Obama in the hope that they will be seen drinking Evan Williams when they come to Kentucky in the coming weeks for the Presidential primary election. [...] Evan Williams bourbon is clearly distraught over the fact that in Indiana, Senator Clinton chose to sip a whiskey that was not Evan Williams bourbon. This obviously caused Evan Williams to resort to political ploys to try to win the favor of Senators Obama and Clinton when they visit Kentucky, and in turn, unfairly influence the fine citizens there."

Naturally, Jeremiah Weed decided to launch a Bourbon Primary that happened to ignore Jack Daniels, Jim Beam, Maker's Mark and... err... every other brand of bourbon besides Jeremiah Weed and Evan Williams.

So how did Evan Williams fire back? They decided to dismiss Jeremiah Weed's salvo as "erroneous and disingenuous":

"Craig Beam, 7th generation Master Distiller at Heaven Hill, America's largest independent family-owned spirits producer, recently sent bottles of Evan Williams, America's second-largest selling Kentucky Bourbon, to Democratic Presidential hopefuls Hillary Clinton and Barack Obama and presumptive GOP nominee John McCain. [...] Mr. Weed, or the blogger that assumes his identity, accuses us of trying to 'unfairly influence' Kentucky voters by 'trying to win the favor of Senators Obama and Clinton' [...] They fail to mention that we also sent a bottle of Evan Williams to Senator McCain, specifically to make the gesture evenhanded and bi-partisan. So clearly the only favor I'm trying to win is preventing the appearance of a bottle of Canadian Whisky on the Kentucky campaign trail. This also all sounds a bit suspect, considering that the folks with Jeremiah Weed also sent bottles to the candidates, according to their spokesman in an April 17th article in Advertising Age."

In case you're wondering, Craig Beam is descended from Jim Beam's first cousin. And the Advertising Age article can be found here, complete with a taste tester calling 100-proof Jeremiah Wood "sugary-sweet" and "girl bourbon."

So, yes, it's all very stupid and reeks of publicity stuntdom. But these two drink makers are going to the bank on it.

Jeremiah Weed [Official Site]
Evan Williams [Official Site]

L.2O: Is This "Chicago’s Best New Restaurant Since The Opening Of Alinea"?

L2o ossetra caviar on fluke.jpg

What could be more auspicious than opening a fabulous new restaurant on the day that the foie gras ban got repealed? This is how L.2O was welcomed into the world, and based on the reactions of Mike Nagrant at Hungry (who supplied that quote and also, magnanimously, the menu) and Judy Hevrdejs at the Tribune, L2O is already in the pantheon of Chicago's top restaurants. And with dishes that have descriptions like "lamb tartar, ebi shrimp, pickled peach, tarragon" and "gold egg yolk, kampachi, Kurobuta pork, sake" and "shabu-shabu medai, kombu bouillon, citrus, King Trumpet," this is not hard to believe.

The ball of Ossetra caviar you can't help but stare at is sitting on a bed of fluke; while this exact preparation is not on tonight's menu, you can get something similar in the $110-$140 range. A twelve course tasting menu is $165, and a four course prix-fixe is $110. Eh, we've seen worse. The photo is from the restaurant's official flickr pool, which is hot. When LEYE wants to do something, they really do it.

Anyway, we're excited.

First Sip: L2O [Hungry]
First Bite: L2O [Tribune]

L.2O [MenuPages]
L.2O [Official Site]

[Photo: Ossetra caviar on fluke at L.2O, LGras/flickr]

PSA: Free Food And Coffee

mcd's southern chicken.jpg

Does that stand for public service announcement or a punishing stomach attack? We don't know. Probably a little of both. Point is, there are two fast food giveaways today.

First, McDonalds is trying to drum up interest in its new Southern Style Chicken Sandwich, basically a copy of Chick Fil A's chicken sandwich: a fried fillet, buttered bun and pickle slices. They're giving these things out until 7 p.m. with the purchase of a medium or large drink. They were also giving out the breakfast version this morning — basically the same sandwich but on a biscuit — but it's too late for that.

Also today, Dunkin Donuts is giving out free iced coffees. From 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. you can get a free 16-oz. iced coffee at participating locations.

So now you know. Do with this information what you will.

McDonald's Giving Away Chicken Sandwiches; Dunkin' Donuts Handing Out Iced Coffee [Serious Eats]
Dunkin' Donuts Keeps America Running With Second Annual Free Iced Coffee Day On May 15 [Press Release]
Free Southern Chicken Today At McDonald's [Freep]
McDonald's Nutrition Facts [Official Site]
[Photo: McDonald's Southern Style Chicken Sandwich via pcopp001/flickr]

Top Chef Episode 10: The Demise Of A Health Nut

À notre santé! This week's episode was all about health; Padma is dearly concerned about America's diabesity problem, and everyone's favorite chunk (chef-hunk, duh) Sam Talbot is, in fact, a diabetic, so it's important that the cheftestants be fluent in languages other than butterese.

The Quickfire concerns "sexy" salads — Padma's line about "bringing sexy salads back" made us hackney up our lunch, and besides, when did salads ever go out of fashion, exactly? If anything, they're more popular than ever.

At any rate, successful "sexy" interpretations of salad included Antonia's poached egg and bacon salad. First of all, it's a Top Chef axiom that you can't lose on bacon, and second, Sam cooed about the indivisible sexiness of breaking into an oozing egg yolk. Woof!

Stephanie's missing artichoke chip didn't help matters and Richard's ceviched fruit had no bite, so it went to Spike's "sensual beef salad" with mint and pineapple. It was Spike's first win at anything, which he ultimately handled with a complete lack of grace.

ted allen gets better every season.jpgThe elimination challenge was to devise a healthy boxed lunch for the Chicago Police Department — not exactly known for its physical fitness — involving a whole grain, a lean protein, and fruit and a vegetable. So then it comes out that the "significant advantage" Spike earned with his Quickfire win is that, whatever ingredient he picks in each category is verboten for the rest of the crew. Since Spike is a little bitch — it's true, just like Lisa — he chose chicken, bread, lettuce and tomato. Which would have been fine if he intended to use the bread, lettuce or tomato! But he didn't!

Meanwhile, Andrew got a lot of camera time throughout the show, never a good sign. Andy studied nutrition for a few years, and was superconfident about his ability to make an unconventional healthy meal. But...not a healthy meal for cops, who are not known for their propensity toward raw food diets. He excitedly discussed his plans to make a carb-free sushi roll in the monologues, which were sped up and jump-cutted to make it look like he's a crazy person. It's less illegal than subliminal advertising!

On the opposite end of the spectrum, Stephanie is serious eater and knows the CPD is, too, so she made a thick soup. Richard threw together a log of a burrito, but tuna and bok choi? Yes please. Dale did some bison (if it's delicious enough, we'll rescue it from extinction) with lemongrass and herbs, prompting Antonia to predict that Dale's Asian-only limitation would eventually be his downfall. But that's not even factually correct, so we'll see. Tom offered his usual mid-episode non-insight, this time remarking "I don't think any of them want to go home for a boxed lunch." Really, producers, was that his best pull quote?

Oh, and someone set little Lisa's brown rice on fire! It could have been any of them at this point, but it was most likely Lisa herself. We all laughed on the inside a little.

The scene at the Police Academy was very nice and antiseptic. Padma said to Sam, "so, your family is cops?" And Sam responded, "yep, my family is cops." Very thrilling.

Finally, the judging happened. Dale and Stephanie landed on top with their bison and soup, but the bison was sexier. Dale won, get this, a $25 bottle of wine! Also, a trip to the vineyard in California, but come on, that's pretty sleazy overall.

The loser's circle was composed of Spike, Andrew and Lisa. Spike was a little bitch (yes, worth repeating) for blocking tomato, lettuce and bread and then NOT USING THEM, plus his apparently strange combination of grapes and olives that we do all the time because it's delicious. Andrew missed the point of making a healthy meal that people might actually want to eat, and as Lisa slimily pointed out, didn't use a grain. Lisa's rice was burnt and undercooked to be sure, but her much larger problems included undercooked shrimp and a poor flavor balance overall.

In the end, they sent Andrew home, but seemingly not for the whole grain lacuna (by the way, when Andrew said he "always goes against the grain" the first time, it was funny, but the second time, it was annoying). Instead, it seems like Andrew doesn't (yet?) have a sophisticated understanding of how to cook for an audience. He was proud of how far he got, meaning he had a sense of his experience gap with the remaining chefs. Lisa and Spike should be shaking in their toques, because their volatility is no longer serving them well.

Next week, short-order cooking and the triumphant and suspiciously rapid return of Restaurant Wars ought to make for good television.

[Photo: Ted Allen gets better every year, via Bravo]

p.s. The Times today has a piece on the emergence of contextual targeting of TV advertisements, a practice that Bravo excels at already. Did you see those ads for Soy Joy and the diabetes medication at the end? Yeah.

FYI: Fuzzy Math Beguiles Onlookers

• House passes lumbering Farm Bill with 75%, for better or worse [NYTimes]
• Foie gras prohibition ends in Chicago; it was sort of fun [Tribune]
• BS: Bush admin's claim of biofuel's small role in global food crisis [AP]
• High prices force non-poor people to eat cheap fatty foods [ABCNews]
• Cookie-pushing girl scout unloads record 17k boxes on lardy MI [USAToday]

May 14, 2008

BREAKING: The Bitch Is Back!

foie gras.jpg

According to everybody and sundry, the stupid foie gras ban was stupidly repealed. What's worse, having bad convictions or not sticking to them? Oh well, the people rejoice!

[Photo: foie gras from the Chef's Station in Evanston, via eszter/flickr]

Sun-Times + Tribune: Can You Schwa-Wing Me a Reservation?

pea soup at bluestem.jpg

• So, it's impossible to get a reservation at Schwa. Michael Carson and co. refuses to hire even a free intern to answer the phone, and it's starting to hurt them on cancellations; i.e., no one can get through to cancel, so they just don't show up. While one interviewee thought the corporate overtones of OpenTable would be inappropriate to Schwa's happy-go-lucky anti-establishment model, how about a bespoke system like Momofuku Ko's in New York, whose 12 nightly seats usually fill up within literally 5 or 10 seconds of 10am, when the reservations go online. It's basically a total crapshoot of whose browser makes a connection first, so it would be almost as frustrating as what Scwha does with its full voicemail box, but slightly more functional. By the way, we hear a rumor that they clear their mailbox on Wednesday midafternoon, although that could easily not be a regular thing. And a friend of ours tried dropping by once to get a reservation in person, and they wouldn't do it. Good luck! [Sun-Times]

• Know what else is going to be hot? L.20, Laurent Gras and LEYE's new restaurant that's opening tonight. But electronically, they've been open for some time; they're equipped with an OpenTable, a blog and even a flickr! If they're as on-point on food and service as they are on technology, we're all in for a treat [Sun-Times]

• A list of how far out the weekend tables at some popular restaurants are booked. We say, try Tuesdays. Or early Sunday! [Sun-Times]

• The famous Greenmarket superlist, now that there are things to buy [Tribune]

• Kevin Hickey of Seasons says spring peas are a valid critique of atheism, and he might be right (okay, he doesn't actually say that) [Sun-Times]

• Hot new local martinis, including one that's a gimmicky $199 [Sun-Times]

• A charming tale about the Leftover Queen, a classic frugal American [Tribune]

• The 2nd annual Chicago Green Festival is at Navy Pier this weekend, and sustainable food will be discussed [Tribune]

• Craft beer makers are branching out into the world of artisanal spirits [Tribune]

• Mace the spice is not mace the pepper spray! [Sun-Times]

[Photo: pea soup from bluestem in Kansas City via ulterior epicure/flickr. See also Ulterior Epicure's blog]

What Does Penguin Meat Taste Like?

penguin cage.jpg

Here's how this went: We were going to tell you about this weird plan in Britain to secretly videotape everybody who buys cigarettes and alcohol. Creepy! But then we got distracted looking at these adorable pictures of penguin-shaped dumplings, and almost immediately started wondering what penguin meat actually tastes like. Ever seen it on a menu? Yeah, us neither.

There are a lot of joke sites out there regarding penguin meat. Apparently people think it is funny to eat the little creatures, and granted, it sort of is. After sorting through "press releases" from the Goliath Corp and the embarrassingly named Bud Ice Freedom Fighters, we discovered that penguins are actually protected and United States citizens are specifically prohibited from eating them.

But that doesn't mean people haven't. This account of an early Antarctic expedition cites Dr. Fredrick A. Cook, ship's surgeon of the Belgica, a Belgian ship captained by Adrien de Gerlache, which sailed from Antwerp in 1897: "If it's possible to imagine a piece of beef, odiferous cod fish and a canvas-backed duck roasted together in a pot, with blood and cod-liver oil for sauce, the illustration would be complete."

Another account, of the 1902-1904 Scottish Naval Antarctic Expedition aboard the Scotia, gave a more optimistic mention of penguin meat: "Once the unusual taste of penguin meat had become familiar, it proved to be a great favourite: fried and stewed, or as a basis for soup and curry."

Overall, though, penguin doesn't seem to have caught on in the least with those not on Antarctic expeditions. That's fine by us. They sound gross and impractical. We'll take a balut any day.

London Supermarket Secretly Videotapes Alcohol/Cigarette Buyers [Boing Boing]
Photo Of The Day: Penguin Dumplings [Required Eating]
Penguin latest food - available in abundance soon [Goliathcorp]
Antarctic Explorers: Adrien de Gerlache [South-Pole.com]
Voyage of the Scotia 1902-04 [Glasgow Digital Library]
Photo: Men with dogs and a cage of penguins at the bow of an ice-bound ship, 1902-1904 [Glasgow Digital Library]

FYI: Bad News, On The Sly

• Farm bill vote expected today, veto expected tomorrow, neither good [Reuters]
• Food aid bill: by the way, poor countries, you have to use GMO seeds! [Tribune]
• UK's Minister of Climate Change undermines Ramsay's food mile claims [Mirror]
• Undocumented immigrant worker bust at big Kosher meat plant in Iowa [NYTimes]
• Your sugar preferences, consumption may be a genetic predisposition [ScienceDaily]
• North Korea has a predictably interesting take on global food crisis [RedOrbit]
• ADB to African countries: please cool it with the food export bans! [Reuters]
• Should pet foods have calorie listings? What's Spot's RDA, exactly? [DMN]