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May 31, 2007

Review Revue: Manly Trib, Boozy TOC

We promised we'd fill you in on the rest of today's food section happenings, and we will not fail you on this front. Of especial note is the Tribune's theme, "The man issue." Phil Vettel and Kevin Pang must have sat down together to brainstorm how to focus their coverage for this issue and said "meat" at the same time. bacon in chicago.jpg Did Mr. Pang come up with the title of his article, "6 degrees of Kevin's bacon", on his own? (It's such a weird innuendo!). Regardless, good eaters of either gender can appreciate this run-down of six top Chicagoland bacon spots, ranging from bite-size bacon buns at Healthy Food Lithuanian (a misnomer; three for $1.75) to the lobster club with applewood-smoked bacon at RL ($20, and we don't bat an eye). In a similar vein, Mr. Vettel gives the nod to three of his favorite burgers in town: the new (Hop Haus), the old-school (Rosebud Steakhouse) and the classic bar burger (Poag Mahone's).

The last article in this feature is bizarrely subversive, which may explain why there's no byline: it's about "5 safe spots for a man-date," and it sells itself as a guide of where two men can eat dinner together without appearing to be "together." But since this is a family paper in a big city, we knew there had to be something going on aside from blatant homophobia. And sure enough, the conceit of the list is that it's constructed to make fun of its own supposed mission. On Hooters: "If your dinner is misinterpreted, you can set the record straight with some waitress ogling. Or you can simply announce: 'Boy, do I like Hooters.'" On Gibson's: "Gargantuan portions of steak -- albeit enjoyed by men who like big cigars." And most preposterously, on Hamburger Mary's: "Fellow diners have best gaydar in the city." Yes, we get it; it's funny. Subtle, but funny.

Rounding out the section (we mean, aside from the reviews that we discussed earlier), is Steve Dahl on pre-tipping for better service, and a little blurb from Vettel on Alhambra Palace about their recent chef changes, which we will detail tomorrow (new menu alert!)

Okay, time for TOC. As we were saying, there's a lot of alcohol in this week's edition. Heather Shouse has some advice for a homesick Irishwoman (unless "Kelly M." is a man, which is possible), who misses her Bulmers cider on draft. Evidently, it's called Magners, stateside, and it's available all over town at places like Grace O'Malley's and the Hidden Shamrock.

Hard cider not for you? Maybe a wine that's reminiscent of grapefruit juice? Or perhaps Naomi Watts? (Yes, you read that correctly.) If we had our druthers, we'd be drinking a pear-cucumber martini right now - helps the blogging go down. Actually, that's exactly what we're going to do. See ya!

[Photo: A Chicago man, with bacon - WhipTheDo/flickr]

Hey, A New Chicago Restaurant Blog

It's called, appropriately enough, Chicago Restaurant Blog, and it comes from the people who're behind Where The Locals Eat. Here at MenuPages Blog Chicago, we're awfully fond of literalism, so we nominally approve. Also, they linkrolled and quoted from us, another point in their favor. However, we noticed that the same editors also do several dozen other "local" restaurant blogs, and on further inspection, it's really just recycled content without commentary. But since we haven't the energy to be either catty or existential, we'll just say, "welcome to the neighborhood," as one would similarly welcome Walmart.

Chicago Restaurant Blog [Official Site]
Where The Locals Eat [Official Site]

Review Revue: Trib @ Lake Side Cafe, Golden Rise Bakery, Crust & Primehouse; TOC @ Anteprima & Sura

Looks like everyone was eating up a storm over the holiday weekend, because today's Tribune and TOC are chock full of reviews, and that's only the half of it (the other half, features, will be posted about later in the afternoon; prepare yourself to be excited for something called "the man issue"). Let's do it in...alphabetical order by reviewer, shall we?

• Bowles on Lake Side Cafe: generally very good vegan food with an emphasis on ingredient provenance and a bent toward spirituality. Service is knowledgeable and pleasant, if occasionally flighty. Your enjoyment of the tasty food will be heightened by the relaxed atmosphere, even if you don't drink all the kool-aid [Tribune]

• Eng on Crust: going through some service-related birthing pains, but generally delicious flatbreads on the small side served to hungry and happy hipsters and your smarter yuppies. (N.B. this review was born last Friday in the Stew) [Tribune]

• Pang on David Burke's Primehouse: the Primehouse is now offering a forty minute lunch that actually takes an hour but is worth both the time and the money (merely $20.71, a reference to their bull stud named 207L). You start with a popover, then choose between a soup or three salads, five main courses (only one of which involves beef), and three desserts, which were highlights. And, Primehouse donates $5 to Common Threads for every prix fixe lunch sold, so it's ethical to boot [Tribune]

• Shouse on Anteprima: charming almost to a fault and an insti-institution, this spot is a neighborhood+ restaurant, with enough panache and good food to draw in outsiders while serving as a go-to for locals. Not every dish on the rustic Italian menu is stellar, but the simple dishes (grilled octopus; salumi; roasted quail) more than satisfy. You will feel (at someone's) home here [TOC]

• Tamarkin on Sura: even though it wants to be known for its Thai tapas (or maybe its groovy-minimalist/"insane asylum" decor), the main dishes are the real stars of the show. Try the black noodles with squid ink, chicken and egg, or crab meat fried rice, both safe bets in a sea of uneven small plates. [TOC]

• Taylor on Golden Rise Bakery: retro bakery serves up modern-rustic sandwiches and salads, not to mention breads and pastries, and is a welcome addition to this emptyish corner of Logan Square. Also note their 16 flavors of ice cream and daily assortment of soups [Tribune]

Imbibing: Cheap Cognac Tasting @ Sam's

Cognac is expensive beverage, usually reserved for industrialists, hip hop stars, and the French. cognac and tonic.jpg Frankly, we find it a bit intimidating, and you might too. Well, Sam's is blowing the lid off the cognac mythos tonight with a $10 tasting at its Lincoln Park store (312-664-4394, 1720 N Marcey St). From 6:30pm-8pm, Alexandre Koiransky, Midwest Director of Cognac Ferrand, will treat the uninitiated to a basic 411, sampling several cognac cocktails, a few cognacs from her own line, and even how to pair cognac with food; we had no idea that was even possible, let alone practiced. The best part, of course, is the $10 price tag - what a low barrier to entry! We hope people go and try to take as much advantage of Sam's hospitality and patience as possible, while staying just on the right side of appropriate. We're thinking...cute, charming and tipsy. Have fun with it!

Sam's Wine and Spirits [Official Site]
Cognac Seminar & Tasting [LocalWineEvents]

[Photo: Cognac & Tonic, eDining.ca]

FYI: Overreaction

• Food safety is a lot like...terrorism?! [CNN]
• Has "organic" lost its meaning through yuppification? [UPI]
• Food fight prank sends HS students to jail [IndyChannel]
• Cuba buys over $0.5 billion in U.S. food a year! [WaPo]
• Uganda site of latest attack on WFP food distribution personnel [allafrica]

May 30, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: What's Black And White And Under $20?

Consider the following possible meal:

Course one: Mejillones En Salsa Verde (mussels in a white wine and cream sauce, $9.95) @ Arco de Cuchilleros

mussels-arcos.jpg

Course two: Marche Profiteroles (warm cream puff, vanilla bean ice cream, warm chocolate sauce, $9) @ Marche

profiteroles-marche.jpg

Listen up - we don't care that it's hot out. We don't care that you're on a diet. We don't care that you don't like monochromatic foods. Why don't we care about any of these things? It's not just because we're misanthropic; staring at these two dishes has rendered us utterly senseless. What a beautiful symmetry between the two: the black of the mussel shell against the hot, creamy white broth, juxtaposed against the chocolate sauce slowly engulfing the ethereally beautiful vanilla sauce, powdered sugar and cream. Given the physical distance between the restaurants, this pairing is profoundly impractical. Nevertheless, in the diningroom of our mind, these dishes are being served to us, consecutively, by waiters in (black and white) tuxedos.

Now back to your regularly scheduled pea shoots and dandelions.

Arco de Cuchilleros [MenuPages]
Marche [MenuPages]
Marche [Official Site]

[Photo 1: Zesmerelda/flickr]
[Photo 2: swanksalot/flickr]

Review Revue: Sun-Times @ The Farmers Markets

The Sun-Times goes fundamental this week, focusing on where you should buy your raw ingredients, rather than where you should eat someone else's cooking. Monday was, after all, the unofficial beginning of summer, and while we have been enjoying our leeks and ramps and whatnot, June is when the serious produce starts flooding Chicago's myriad farmers markets. Bill Cunniff has a list of times and locations to end all lists, covering the entire city and nearby suburbs - more than 80 in total! If that's not enough, here's Sue Ontiveros's guide to taking full advantage of that resource. You have no excuse not to eat locally grown produce this summer, honestly. Oh, and if you want to one-up the farmers, here's a growing calendar to guide your personal and municipal gardening adventures. And descending even further into the realm of improbable activities, Lisa Donovan checks in with a rough guide to eating cicadas, who are just rousing from their 17 year cycle of dormancy.

Two other things to note:

1) It's Hunger Awareness Day next Tuesday, June 5th, and Sandy Thorn Clark has a profile of Mary Ellen Diaz's charity First Slice, which feeds 600 Chicagoans in need each week, plus a few suggestions of how you can participate next week at venues citywide.

2) Denise O'Neal has a piece on celiacs, noting that there are over 55,000 in Chicagoland. We just wanted to point out that you can filter your searches on MenuPages by restaurants offering gluten-free items; we have twenty-seven in the database, which is a start.

Let the outdoor shopping season begin! [Sun-Times]
Flavor of fresh [Sun-Times]
Growing calendar [Sun-Times]
Real or not, cicadas as food whets appetites [Sun-Times]
Hunger Awareness Day [America's Second Harvest]
Serving up dignity [Sun-Times]
Celiac diagnosis leads to food line [Sun-Times]

Institutional Love for Bridgeport Coffee House

So it turns out that "McKinley Parkside Resident" is not the only epicure who's a fan of Bridgeport Coffee House, which we metareviewed not two hours ago. Shortly thereafter, we received a note from Chuck Sudo, Food and Drink editor of the Chicagoist and eater extraordinaire. He had the following to say about the coffeeshop:
The owner, Mike Pilkington, has been running this joint for close to four years now. He also roasts all of the beans himself at the Filbert's soda factory on south Ashland in Bridgeport; he sells them whole bean or ground by the pound retail in the shop, or wholesale to restaurants and other places. He tries to buy as much fair trade coffee and tea as he possibly can without undercutting his profit margin. bridgeport coffee.jpg The staff is well-trained, a bit rushed (probably due to the impatient nature of all the transplants from the north side), wi-fi is free, and the place is dog-friendly (I bring my boxer/terrier mix Emmy by every Saturday when I purchase my mocha or caramel macchiato). They've also developed friendly relationships with Lumpen head Ed Marzewski (whose mother owns the pakage store and bar across the street) and the fresh-out-of-school artist types trickling down to Bridgeport, Pilsen, and Back of the Yards. They usually have movie screenings with music and Sunday jazz.

Most important, Pilkington and his staff have worked hard to make Bridgeport Coffee House an integral part of the neighborhood, as opposed to other coffee shops that try to be independent for the sake of being independent. It's nice to see his hard work pay off with the coverage.
Furthermore, Chuck informed us that Bridgeport Coffee House has a new website, and that he covered the place in depth around two years back. Best of all, we now know the name of Chuck's dog (Emmy; weren't you paying attention?), and where to find her on Saturdays. Stakeout time!

Unapologetically Local Cups'a Joe: Bridgeport Coffee House [Chicagoist]
Bridgeport Coffee House [MenuPages]
Bridgeport Coffee House [Official Site]

[Photo: BPCH]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Chuck's Pizza, Hawkeye's Bar & Grill, Bridgeport Coffee House

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are three of the best from the past week:

Not every restaurant in Chicago is a destination restaurant, and not every dining out experience is an "event"; in fact, most restaurant dining is modest in scale and close to home. Let's take a look at three decidedly neighborhood establishments, none of which necessarily warrant a special trip, but certainly serve a purpose in the lives of local residents.

* * *
On May 23rd, "chi town hustler" made the following assessment of Chuck's Pizza:
It is unfair to rate Chucks including atmosphere. This is a carry out place plain and simple. And the Pizza is very very good. No waitresses in tees and orange shorts and like that. No plasma screen TV's. On the dry side of Western. Just really good carry out pizza and he has been doing it for years....and with heavy competition. Roseangelas is tough to beat. Fox's a local favorite with a bar but greeeeeeesy...And Milanos-Only deep dish worth buying in the City. But for thin you can't go wrong with Chucks.
Simple, relevant, and to the point. We feel like we know more about the pizza scene in Beverley than we ever did before, and don't you find the reference to the "dry side" of Western tantalizing?

* * *
The next day, "b" chastized Hawkeye's Bar & Grill for their antisocial pricing practices:
Hawkeye's is one of the major hangouts for UIC students (and Chicago PD). The food is decent, and the place is generally a good time on a Thursday or Friday night. Don't plan on having a happy Designated Driver, though, as they're nearly spend as much on pop as you will on beer with their poor policy of expensive pop and no free refills. You can get a can or bottle of beer cheaper than a pop many nights of the week, and a pitcher of beer is always cheaper than pop pint-for-pint. It seems like poor policy and a lack of social conscious from this establishment. At a recent visit for lunch we were given a sandwich version of a wrap we ordered, which included fries instead of the fruit cup. The waitress seemed disinterested in the fact we received the wrong food, and even after we said we would manage by just taking off the bread, making it a wrap ourselves if she could get us a wrap and a fruit cup. She came back, and asked if we could just make due with what was there because "they were running low on wraps". Not out, just running low. Our stunned silence was only ended after she also asked if she could charge us for the fruit cup. Absolute madness.
True enough about beer being cheaper than soda; consider that in France, wine is cheaper than water. At the same time, do people who go to this bar from UIC really need to drive afterward? Can't they walk? We also think that "absolute madness" is something of an overstatement with respect to the service "b" received in the second part of the review, although it's a great phrase.

* * *
Finally, on May 26th, Bridgeport Coffee House regular "McKinley Parkside Resident" breaks it down for us:
Owner is often on-site. Lots of regulars! Moms group meets on Wed mornings. Help is friendly if a little distracted. Good coffee...can't take the decaf lattes, though. Burnt flavor overpowers. Pastries are good & fresh - but usually gone by mid-morning. Fairly good sandwiches (everything's fresh). Like the atmosphere - as a transplanted Wrigleyville-ian - I really needed a local coffee house/cafe! Offers local art on the wall, internet connectivity, and a quiet place to sit, read (has Reader newspapers, too! Yay!), contemplate life. Just watch out for the other transplants...they can get pushy. Had a guy pull a newspaper out from under my reading eyes w/o so much as a "Hey, I want that". Local city workers and contractors stop in and give the place a much-needed anchored to the neighborhood feeling. Please stop by after checking out the local burgeoning art scene (most likely spurred by the Internationally-acclaimed Zhou Bros.)
We like that "MPR" self-identifies as a transplant to give the reader a lens through which to interpret this review. We also hate burnt espresso - tastes like corn! Generally a great review, at least by the metric of us being able to clearly visualize the place in our minds. We don't even mind the shill at the end, because it's not related to anything in particular and it enriches our sense of the neighborhood.

* * *
Chuck's Pizza [MenuPages]
Hawkeye's Bar & Grill [MenuPages]
Hawkeye's Bar & Grill [Official Site]
Bridgeport Coffee House [MenuPages]
Bridgeport Coffee House [Official Site]

FYI: People Eat Too Much

• Bears' Tank Johnson ate $700 of junk food during 2 mo. in jail [cbs2Chicago]
• Europe is fat! Don't worry - the EU has a plan [BBCNews]
• Who else is affected by lax Chinese food safety standards? The Chinese [Reuters]
• A right-winger misses the point of the "Food Stamp Challenge" [Aspen Daily]
• Here's something that sounds cool: membrane technology! [Newswire]

May 29, 2007

Blog Reviews: Week Of Waiting For Cicadas

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week (sometimes at the same place), in alphabetical order by restaurant

• Some sort of knockoff of its more famous Hyde Park cousin Thai 55, Bangkok Thai 55 serves passable Thai food to Bridgeport, but does only takeout on Sundays [Chicagoist]

• Where there was once hip and happening Gourmand now stands staid and uninspiring Cafe Mediterra, a semi-sophisticated cafe by Printer's Row [Gapers Block]

• Venture up to Chicago Kalbi, where the unafraid will be rewarded with one of East Asia's best gifts to the culinary world, Korean BBQ. This spot is good for beginners [Chicagoist]

[Begin Crust-A-Thon]

• Great opening-day service at Crust, where the flatbreads are crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside (as they should be) [Gapers Block]

• Nagrant says: get the flammkuchen at Crust, but skip the infused vodkas [Hungry Mag]

• More hipsters scarfing down flatbreads Crust, wondering if the portions are too small, while ordering seconds anyway (yum!) [The Stew]

[End Crust-A-Thon]

cicada.jpg • The brisket is "the bomb" at Fat Willy's, but some people might find the platters too overwhelming [Chicago Foodies]

• Average but enjoyable BBQ at Fireside, where you can get pretty much anything in the traditional American dining lexicon [Gapers Block]

• Mmm, South Asian rotisserie chicken...plus, Mazza BBQ has some Uzbek fare, apparently! [Gapers Block]

• Sometimes, we need a little fancy in our lives - mk fits the bill, providing you don't get wigged out by the fast pacing of the courses [Chicagoist]

• Busy burger joint Muskie's brings in an eclectic and endearing clientele with their high quality fast food and outdoor seating [Chicagoist]

• Unsurprisingly, the frozen custards at Scooter's Frozen Custard are really good (the highlight of this review was meeting G Wiv, understandably) [Chicago Burger Project]

• Cute and much-loved Vella Cafe turns out great panini, but gets reminded to peel the skins off their chilis [The Stew]

[Photo: Periodical Cicadas, Clermont College]

Genetic Variation To Marketable Product, Faster Than You Can Say "Got Milk?"

SkinnyCow.jpg

Can we agree that the genetic engineering of our food supply is okay if it happens by accident? Probably not, but consider the following: six years ago, scientists with the biotech company ViaLactia discovered a gene that directs certain New Zealand cows to produce milk that's low in saturated fat (1%, as opposed to the 3.5% in whole milk) and high in omega-3 fatty acids. Since then, the company has succeeded in breeding offspring with the same characteristics, and is going commercial with natural skim milk and extra-spreadable butter (omega-3 is supermaleable, what with its multiple double bonds twisting to and fro[zen yogurt, anyone?]) by 2011.

We're not positive about this, but we don't see any reason why the product couldn't be marketed as organic. One does not need antibiotics, synthetic hormones or conventionally-grown feed to make these skinny cows; just a little bit of science-assisted selective breeding, an accelerated form of what farmers have been doing for thousands of years. The skinny cow aberration does not have the same sort of pernicious effects as, say, genetically modified seeds, which can destroy naturally occurring crops and need to be purchased yearly by growers. Nope, this is just some cows producing artisanal milk for the calorie conscious consumer. And so, we assign this project an 8 on the MP Scale of Food Ethics. Bottoms up!

Cows in New Zealand Produce Low - Fat Milk [NYTimes]
Skimmed milk gene found in NZ cow [FWI]
Low-fat milk, straight from the cow [ABC Online]
NZ cows produce own skimmed milk [BBCNews]

[Photo: Skinny Cow, Sam Yip]

Opening: Coalfire

coalfire.jpg

Ever since it opened a few weeks ago, people have not stopped talking about Coalfire. In the past twenty days or so, the restaurant's thread on LTHForum has garnered 140 comments, virtually all of them positive (by LTH standards), and many glowing. Tablehopping declared it "as good as...Spacca Napoli," a heady plaudit from a major publication for a new restaurant. All this press has been a mixed blessing for Coalfire, which has struggled with dough shortages and floods. When the pizza is as good as people are saying, however, these growing pains can be easily forgiven.

Meanwhile, what kind of pizza is it? PIGMON of LTHFourm describes it as "a beautiful hybrid between traditional Neapolitan, NY Neapolitan, and Chicago bar pizza," meaning a crispy, lippy, thin crust (baked in an oven fired to 700 degrees by a combination of coal and wood for around two and a half minutes), high quality tomato sauce, and a relatively light touch with the meat-heavy toppings list (so much so that anchovies don't even count as a meat). The menu is concise, with nine pizza combinations, three calzones, and two token salads. The combinations, which range in price from $12.99 to $15.99 for a 14" pie, are simple and classic, and include white pizza ($13.50), fiorentino (salami and red peppers, $13.99), and the aptly named "meat" (salami, sausage and pepperoni, $15.99). By our calculations, these prices are pretty reasonable - similar pizzas in New York, to which Coalfire's offerings have been favorably compared, would cost half again as much. We recommend going early (before 7pm), before they get too crowded or run out of ingredients. It will be interesting to see the inevitable comparisons with the other new high-profile pizza restaurant, Crust, which opened late last week a mere mile and a half to the northwest of Coalfire. The good news is that Chicago has an insatiable appetite for good pizza, and the pie can only get bigger.

p.s. For the record, it's "Coalfire," not "Coal Fire"

Coalfire [MenuPages]
Coal Fire Pizza on Grand [Open] [LTHForum]
Tablehopping [Tribune]
Coalfire under fire [Food Chain]
Coalfire under water [Food Chain]
Spacca Napoli [MenuPages]
Crust [MenuPages]

[Photo: Mgmax/flickr]

Imbibing: Swirl Wine Bar's Inaugural Boozefest

How was your Memorial Day? Can you...not remember it because you drank too much? Did you not even catch the joke we made about remembering a holiday about remembrance because you drank too much? God forbid, did you not drink enough? Well, let Swirl Wine Bar help you make the transition into the shortened workweek and the de facto new season with a slew of light summer wines. From 6:30 to 8:30 tonight, Swirl will host a tasting of twelve sparkling and crisp (their lit) white wines that might inspire you to upgrade from beer and BBQ to chardonnays and canapées for your next party. Well, upgrade is a strong word - both pairings have their time and place - but did you notice the alliteration and rhyming? Right on.

Anyway, the tasting will be accompanied by hors d'oeuvres forged by Executive Chef Luis Sanchez's capable hands, including tuna and watermelon tartare (refreshing!) and empanadas (savory!). The best part is, if you call ahead for a reservation (312-828-9000), it's only $25. Those of you incapable of planning for the future will have to shell out $35 at the door, which maybe will teach you a lesson for being indecisive and slothful. Since this is their first ever wine tasting in this format, they're liable to "bring it," and we like those odds.

Swirl Wine Bar [MenuPages]
Swirl Wine Bar [Official Site]
Wine Events [Swirl]

FYI: Before & After

• Consumers still confident about pet food safety... [PRNewswire]
• ...China to execute guy responsible, for good measure [NYTimes]
• Recycling turkey poop into energy [Tribune]
• What to do with the cicadas? Feed them to zoo animals... [NYTimes]
• ...Or eat them yourself [Tribune]

May 25, 2007

Bobak, For All Your Memorial Day Needs

bobak.jpg

Before we go screaming off into the afternoon, we wanted to provide you with something useful. The most astute and obsessive readers of the blog may recall that in our post about the Tribune's webcast the other day, we promised we would elaborate on Kevin and Monica's suggestion of Bobak as a destination for Memorial Day food shopping. Well, here's your payoff: this circular touches on many issues of the week, like beef prices and mangoes. We think the selection of products they've listed is very well-edited; are you not excited for Tyrolska-style sausage and pickled zucchini? In any case, enjoy your extended weekend, and see you on Tuesday.

Bobak [MenuPages]
Bobak [Official Site]

[Photo: Bobak's Sales Circular]

Review Revue: Reader @ Vella

Nicholas Day joins the fray on Vella Cafe, the instantly beloved paninoria in Bucktown. Day chronicles the history of the shop in great detail, from Sara Voden and Melissa Yen's early cooking careers to the Green City booth where they honed their panini-making skills to the endless hunt for a space in which to open their restaurant. Day's been an adherent of theirs for years, and is thrilled by the expanded restaurant menu - of particular note is the frittata panini, which Day believes to be the best egg sandwich he's ever had. In fact, virtually everyone seems to love Vella, which has received positive reviews from Time Out, Daily Candy, and the Tribune. We're impressed by the uniformity of the praise. Good job, guys!

Best Panini in Town? [Reader]
Vella Cafe [MenuPages]
Vella Cafe [Official Site]

Opening: Crust

As promised, allow us to intoduce you to the menu of the Midwest's first certified organic restaurant, Crust. Yes, certified - like for so many other government functions, the USDA accredits a variety of companies to actually go out to farms, manufacturers and restaurants to make sure that they're up to code. Imagine the double certification process if there were to be a kosher organic restaurant! Our bureaucratic heart swoons.

Anyway, when we called Crust a pizza restaurant yesterday, we were ever so slightly mistaken - it would be more accurately termed a FLATBREAD restaurant. With florid prose, Crust describes their product as "pizza's big brother, worldly and without boundaries..." Oh, come on. The toppings on their flatbreads sound like standard issue gourmet pizzas to us: their El Greco is topped with feta, artichoke, kalamata olive, red onion, and roasted tomato ($10), their Italian Sausage with sweet Italian sausage, provolone, and melted tomatoes ($12), and their Clambake with fresh clams, bechamel, fresh-pulled mozzarella, caramelized onion, and wild herbs ($14). Alright, we suppose that last one is a bit out there; one does not normally find clams and bechamel sauce on pizza.

But whatever you want to call it, it's organic, local and seasonal. Structurally, the food (which also includes sandwiches like wood-roasted beef with horseradish crème fraiche and sweet onion on pumpernickel for $10, and salads like the Brown Derby with roasted chicken, bacon, egg, cheddar, avocado, tomato, green onion, and russian dressing for $10) has to taste good, because the ingredients are good. That's the secret to great cooking - start with high quality raw materials, and do as little to them as possible.

Anyway, Crust also features a full organic bar (would you expect any less), including house-infused vodkas, and organic beers from all over. This certified organic thing may be a gimmick, but we find it pretty compelling. Who wants to eat artifice, anyway?

Crust [MenuPages]

FYI: All Trib, All The Time

Two in Chicago sickened by Chinese fugu mislabeled as monkfish! [Tribune]
Blago signs bill closing last slaughterhorse facility in U.S. [Tribune]
McD/tomato picker wage increase deal foiled by growers in Fla. [Tribune]
McD hot and bothered by fast food breakfast competition [Tribune]
CTA uses doomsday scenario to scare money out of Springfield [Tribune]

May 24, 2007

Review Revue: TOC @ Alhambra, The Silver Palm, 75th Street

silver palm.jpg TOC echoes the emerging general sentiment on Alhambra Palace, which is that the space is amazing, but the food's nothing special. Competent but tremendously boring and average pretty much sums up David Tamarkin's reaction to the cuisine, whose blandness is especially stark next to the grandiosity of the restaurant itself. Problems are clearly afoot: Chef Eric Aubriot's abrupt departure is something of a mystery, and a story to which we're paying close attention.

Moving right along, Heather Shouse has a short piece on Crust, the Midwest's first certified organic restaurant, which opens today. And it's a pizza place! Stay tuned for the menu, which goes live on MP tomorrow (no joke).

lem's.jpg Meanwhile, the Silver Palm, a train car restaurant (literally) at the megasection of Milwaukee, Ogden and Chicago, is losing patrons because of some nearby construction. Don't be among the easily cowed!

Chef Dirk Flanigan of The Gage, profiled in this week's hot seat, loves making his own sausages, eating at Coco Pazzo, and listening to Queens of the Stone Age (fine by us).

Taste Quest goes on an epic journey across 75th street, from Wabash to Cottage. Little did we know just how much delicious grub resides on that mile-long strip: everything from Army & Lou's to Cafe Trinidad to Soul Veg East and Lem's (even though those last two won't give us their menus, we love them anyway). Get in the car and make it happen (honestly, not worth it on public transit).

[Photo: Lem's/agilitynut/flickr | Silver Palm/Dixon Steele/flickr]

Review Revue: Tribune Does A Hodgepodge

The Tribune is unusually brief - there's no lead review, and the Cheap Eats is in Glenview, so no help there.

Monica Eng is on top of where diners should stow their bags when out to eat - one of the burning issues of our time, to be sure. She eliminates the back of the chair (thieves!) and the floor (roaches!) in short order, and no one likes keeping a purse on the lap. Luckily, Eng finds that a growing number of restaurants (Republic, Butter, and Avec, to name a few) are using little hooks under their tables and beneath where accessories can be hung, out of the reach of criminals and vermin.

Vella Cafe gets the Tablehopping treatment, where the paninis are fresh and delicious, if occasionally lacking a bit of TLC from the kitchen.

Finally (already?), Susan Taylor compares Thai green curries around town, loving offerings from Thai Pastry and Sticky Rice, but not caring for a version she had in Skokie (serves her right for going to Skokie).

Opening: Anteprima

We wish we could give you a "preview" (the restaurant's name, in Italian) of Anteprima, but we were beaten to the punch. Well, finally, here we are with the menu. The restaurant's cuisine has been repeatedly billed as rustic and regional, and we're certain that the name itself is a reference to their extensive antipasto offerings (which offer a preview of the rest of the menu, maybe). Half the menu items (2/3 if you count the pastas, which are all available as half portions), are appetizer style. The rusticity comes into play with starters like veal meatballs with saffron-tomato sauce, pine nuts and raisins ($8), roasted peppers with breadcrumbs, parmigiano reggiano, and herbs ($4), and grilled polenta with spicy rapini ($7). Diners can continue the we're-at-our-rich-Euroxecutive-friend's-Tuscan-farmhouse fantasy with grilled quails, marinated in honey and balsamic vinegar and served with borlotti beans & pancetta ($19), strozzapreti pasta with pancetta, onions, cherry tomatoes, and pecorino romano ($8/half, $14/full), or maybe even a side of sauteéd dandelion greens with olive oil, garlic, chilies ($5). The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is hip and low-key, and people are saying the food is pretty good - sounds like a good deal to us.

Anteprima [MenuPages]

Live-Blogging The Stew's Webcast

Well, we have to say that we feel lucky to have been among the several hundred people who watched Monica Eng and Kevin Pang tell it like it is on yesterday afternoon's "first-ever live web video chat." stew chat.JPG It was a half hour of straight dope on the NRA show, dining in Chicago, and occasionally, the personal lives of the hosts. We've never live-blogged before (we don't even know if it takes a dash), so we did stupid things like...not take notes on the exact time things were said. As if that matters in the slightest - this is not a presidential debate, nor America's Next Top Model. And anyway, we have a clear record on the order in which things were said, and we will present our finding thusly. Except for the first few seconds/minutes, which we missed because we couldn't find the damn link to the video; why did the Tribune bury it in tiny text way down in the middle of the homepage? No matter - onto the material:

• Where to get wagyu? - The Fish Guy, Mitsuwa, and Fox & Obel. We wonder if wagyu prices are going up along with other prime meats. Probably, but right now, Monica thinks you can get ground wagyu for $10 a pound at F&O. Sounds like a waste, though.

• At the NRA show, quadruple-size Vienna hot dogs, for restaurants to tart up and serve as an expensive dish. The horror!

• Also at the show, green (environmentally friendly; does that even need to be clarified?) cleaning supplies on display, but in a small booth. Con-Agra, a rich, evil company, had a much bigger booth.

• Hey, a shout out to the blog! Kevin announced, and Monica, answered, our question about Indian mangoes (Monica: they "will blow your mind"), and you can get them at the Patel Brothers stores. Meanwhile, we were hoping they'd answer our other questions about Fred Thompson and the enfeebling of America via consumerism, but we'll take what we can get. Thanks, guys!

• Memorial Day food on the Southwest Side? Bobak has great meats (more on that later), plus something about tamales that we didn't quite catch. But evidently, Tio Luis on 35th and Archer has killer tacos, and they use key limes for added deliciousness.

Burrito Beach has great guacamole. Who knew? It's only 75 cents as an "extra," by the way.

• Raw foods - is the movement growing in Chicago? We have some raw restaurants like Karyn's Raw Vegan Gourmet and Cousin's Incredible Vitality, and more are slowly opening, but it's not like all of Chicago is going to suddenly throw up its hands and say, "that's it! No more cooking." Raw foods will settle into a "sometimes" thing.

• Another innovation from the NRA show is the eyegiene toilet seat, which rotates and gets treated with alcohol, cleaning and drying the seat before its next encounter. Monica waxed poetic about a restaurant in Taiwan where bathroom attendants clean the commodes after every single use, and spray the area with a lovely jasmine perfume.

• What's the next big cuisine genre? Monica starts off by discussing mini-desserts, which isn't really a cuisine genre as much as a general trend. She does recommend the passion fruit souffle at Vong's Thai Kitchen, though. Then Monica recovered a bit, and forecasted an increase in regional Indian restaurants.

• A question asked about government labeling for local or seasonal. K&M rightly pointed out that the government can't even get non-toxic right, or organic for that matter, so nothing doing about local or seasonal. Their recommendation? Make friends with the vendores at your local farmers market.

At this point, Monica really started having a good time, and cracked jokes fast and furious:

• Someone asked where to get guinea pig in Chicago, and Monica launched into this whole thing about a piece she did on guinea pigs from the Trib some years back, and how she wanted them to run this horrifying photo of a splayed guinea pig, and there was this big back and forth with the editors - was it too much for a family paper? Anyway, they ran the photo to minimal hate mail, but the upshot is, guinea pig doesn't really taste good, and there's very little meat on it. Monica recommends leaving it as an Andean cultural curiosity, and moving on to bigger and better rodents.

• Monica feeds her 8 year old child intestines and worms!

• Do celebrity chefs ever cook in their own restaurants? If they're on TV, then no.

• Someone asked what the hosts would change about dining in Chicago, and they did not know what they were in for. Monica went on a diatribe about putting a ban on bad food and bad service. Then she sunk her fangs into the soft underbelly of Cafe Iberico, which she lambasted for resting on its laurels as the quality of their tapas has tanked - old bread, mislabeled "jamon iberico" sliced almost too thin to eat. Take heed, Cafe Iberico: Monica's got your number.

• Kevin talked about rib tips for a bit (you may recall he won our contest some weeks back for best food article of the day), and Monica waxed poetic about the pork at Sun Wah Bar-B-Q. She was very expressive - we laughed out loud on numerous occasions as Monica described the intensity with which she loves pig products.

• And finally, with an utterly straight face, Monica declared that she's looking forward to eating the cicadas when they come, which could be as soon as this weekend.

We are definitely looking forward to more of these things in the future.

Interactive chat [Tribune]

FYI: Fighting Words Of Wisdom

• Ahh, that's how mushrooms work [Yahoo]
• China to trading partners: trust us, pretty please [Reuters]
• Climate change to destroy wild food plants [Forbes]
• Vettel's plea for restaurant week makes progress [The Stew]
• McD's wants OED to change def. of McJob. Hahaha yeah right [BBCNews]

May 23, 2007

Elsewhere in the Menuniverse: Jealousy

...and how it's relevant to you, Chicagoan

Last time we visited the Menuniverse, we petulantly proclaimed Chicago unassailable in every category that we carefully selected from the MenuPages blogs in Boston, San Francisco, and Philadelphia. There are, in fact, things that Chicago does not or cannot have, and while we're sad about that, we're keeping our chin up. Here, briefly, is our mea culpa:

Topography irregularities. Look at this neat castle, and imagine eating in it [MP:San Francisco]
Oceanic penninsulas. Lake Michigan is nice, but it will never have the sea breezes and lobsters of Provincetown [MP:Boston]
Italian Food Festivals. Does Chicago have one? We think it used to, but we're sure it's nothing like this one [MP:Philly]

In every other context, however, we remain superior.

Beef: It's What's Expensive

The big news in today's NYTimes dining section is that beef prices, especially the top grades like prime and choice, are skyrocketing as supplies plunge. According to the article by Florence Fabricant, the per pound price for steers ready to slaughter (lovely) increased from 83 cents in April '06 to 98 cents today, and the percentage of beef graded as prime has dropped from 2% to possibly as low as 0.5%. While some fluctuation in price and availability for high quality ingredients is normal, the factors which have led to this particular run seem to boil down to one thing: energy costs. The journey from skinny cow to juicy steak requires two inputs (for our purposes) - food, to make the cow grow, and gasoline, to transport the meat to your local supermarket or restaurant. Big cows with lots of fatty marbling consume a hell of a lot of corn to get that way, and their tremendous girth requires a lot of fuel to move around. methane Cow.jpg Back in the day, farmers had cheap feed, and slaughterhouses had cheap oil. Now, with the ethanol market booming, everybody has expensive corn. Corn prices have increased so much that cows are now being slaughtered younger - before their beef becomes really tasty - to save the trouble of feeding them and transporting them at a higher weight. Next time you're at a steakhouse and your prime rib is scrawny and $70, you'll know why. (Actually, for the time being, steakhouses are mostly eating the costs and cutting back on reservations rather than quality, but that compromise is ultimately untenable).

Our solution? Methane! Yup, cows produce a vile amount of methane, currently warming the atmosphere at an even faster rate than carbon dioxide (by volume). Wily scientists are already busy coming up with ways to harness the tremendous output of natural gas on America's pastures. One day, we hope that cows are transported to meat packing plants and your plate in vehicles powered by fuel derived from the cows' own farts. Ah, the elegance of technological progress.

Demand and Costs Rise for Best Cuts [NYTimes]
Methane from cow manure makes new energy [Minnesota Daily]

[Photo: Audubon Magazine]

Update: Stir The Stew With Your Questions!

At the moment, we count a mere 16 questions in the comments section of the Stew's staging area for their webcast in two hours. Now would be a good time to get the dirt on that Phil Vettel rumor we all keep hearing, for example. No, seriously, ask them anything (ideally about the NRA show, but anything about Chicago, dining, or Chicago dining would suffice). The more embarrasing, the better. And tune in at 2, because you can pester them, live!

Video Web Chat, Comments section [Tribune]

Review Revue: Sun-Times @...Lunch Carts?

The bulk of this week's smallish S-T food section is devoted to trends and ideas, which we will get to shortly, but if there's anything close to a review, it's of the city's numerous and beloved lunch trucks, apparently also called the "Lunch Bunch". (Periods shouldn't go outside of quotes, but when it's the name of something, putting the period inside the quotes is sort of misleading. We will take clarity over correctness in this instance, with apologies to you mavens). chicago hot dog cart.jpg Lunch carts are an integral part of the urban fabric - quick service, owner-operated, low barrier to entry, and able to move to the latest construction site or other large massing of hungry people. New York's lunch cart offerings so revered that an annual event - the Vendy Awards - has sprung up to honor them. The article, by Sandy Thorn Clark, mentions both lunch carts sent out by restaurants (Toham, for example, keeps a cart on Ontario Street by LSD), and carts owned by entrepreneurs serving up whatever they know how to make, which almost always includes hot dogs (see diagram). We think the lunch cart is a great institution, and we're glad they're getting some press - it's tough business out there!

In ingredient trends, here's what's hot right now:
• Grounded coffee (not coffee grounds, please) in savory cuisine, especially in "stews, rubs and gravies." [Coffee Cuisine]
• Hey, it's squash blossom season! When zucchini are born, they have a little flower at the end that eventually withers and dies. If you know what's good for you, pull them off in their prime, stuff them with something yummy and bake or fry the hell out of it. Try it at Coco Pazzo and Mundial Cocina Mestiza. [Squash blossoms bloom in Mexican, Italian restaurants]
• Have you ever grilled a sweet potato? This weekend would be a good time to start - with a bit of olive oil right on the grill, or boiled, cubed and skewered [Swap shop: New idea for grilling season]

Finally, this was outside of the food section, but obviously relevant: Wikstrom's Deli in Andersonville, which closed in February (Ingvar Wikstrom was 79 and not having it anymore), is being reopened this summer by his daughter Marie, right next to the Swedish American Museum. In the meantime, your cravings can be sated via the Wikstroms' mail-order business. Smaklig måltid! [Wikstrom's to reopen in new place, on a smaller scale]

[Photo: Chicago Hot Dog Cart, abamart Concession Equipment]

Kevin Pang & Monica Eng Going Live At 2PM!!!

We used three exclamation points as an homage to Judy Hevrdejs' lede in today's Stew. But surely no amount of punctuation would be sufficient to describe the magnitude of the event to take place early this afternoon: the first ever live web video chat hosted on the Stew will take place, as we noted, at 2PM. The goal of the chat (aside from seeing if it makes sense to do similar chats in the future), is to share with the public Monica and Kevin's perceptions of the NRA Show, which ended yesterday (you may recall that the pair have had quite a bit to say already).

Oh, did we mention that it's going to be interactive? That's right: you, the surfer/viewer, will be asking the questions. Commenters on the Stew have already lobbed queries about the cooking contests and new product samples at the show, but obviously, the sky's the limit. We're not really sure how the technological aspect of the chat will go down, but try the Tribune homepage, and maybe the Stew page as well, a few minutes before 2pm.

Our questions:

1) What was the ambient smell of the convention center?
2) Any reports of food poisoning?
3) Who won the ice sculpting competition, and what was the sculpture of?
4) Were there any of those new Indian mangoes?
5) Did anyone actually see Fred Thompson's speech?
6) What was the single most revolting thing you sampled?
7) Did any of the new products make you think the American empire is nearing collapse?

Stay tuned.

Live!!! From Tribune Tower!! It's The Stew's first video web chat! Got questions? We've got answers [The Stew]

FYI: Making Amends

• Hand sanitizers are newest trend in getting drunk [Tribune]
• Food supply chock full of antibiotic-resistant bacteria [GEN]
• If you've washed dishes in 33 states, you better write a book about it [NYTimes]
• Chinese look inward about pet food crisis and feel ashamed [Reuters]
• Ms. Obama resigns from Walmart food supplier's board [seattlePI]

May 22, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Matcha Parfait @ Green Leaf, Mitsuwa Marketplace

green tea mitsuwa.jpg

Are you plotzing? This matcha parfait was expertly crafted by the master artisans of Green Leaf, in the food court of Mitsuwa Marketplace in Arlington Heights. As a food connoisseur and sophisticate-about-town, you are already familiar with the Mitsuwa brand, so we will not bore you with glowing accounts of their various culinary wares. Suffice it to say, this parfait ($3.60) would be an excellent denouement to an afternoon of stocking up on your various pickles and Shiseido products. The direct line to Green Leaf is (847) 228-5435, but call only if you're prepared to be very patient, or are fluent in Japanese.

But just look at the layering of the matcha and yogurt, the perfect spiral of green tea soft serve (whose grooves are filled with matcha syrup), the unexpected textures of red bean and ginger, and the two beautiful palmiers to complete the dish. A testament to Japanese dessert engineering. For this wonderment, $3.60 is almost criminally cheap. And the photographer even reports that it tastes good!

Mitsuwa Marketplace [Official Site]

[Photo: ebi debi/flickr]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Sura Love/Hate Edition

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that.

sura.jpg

This week, we wanted to highlight the incredibly polarized responses we've been getting about Sura, the Thai "bistro" in Lakeview that opened around three weeks ago. On May 16th, we received two reviews that speak to the tremendous capacity for passion and variation in personal perception of something as straightforward and inconsequential as a meal at a Thai place.

First, "Anonymous" with the love:
The service at this restaurant is incredible. Food comes out in quick succession if you are indulging in tapas, and empty plates are whisked away. I have only tried their tapas, which were very reasonably priced and generally extremely tasty. Ask for recommendations, as the ones we chose ourselves were never as good as the choices of our waiter. Don't let the extremely trendy atmosphere fool you, our table was very comfortable and the music level was pleasant - unlike other places down the street. This is a great addition to Lakeview dining.
Now, "Lakeview guy" with the hate
Ridiculously incompetent and arrogant service, mediocre food, unbelievably loud trite pop/disco (be prepared to scream if you want to talk), white decor that resembles a cross between 2001: A Space Odyssey and an old ladies' hairdressing salon circa 1975. There is nothing about this place to like, and I won't be coming back, despite the fact that it's around the corner from me. Life's too short, and there are too many good restaurants to give this place another shot at ruining my evening.
Did these people conspire to write contradictory reviews? They disagree almost point by point on service, atmosphere, and food quality. While the hate review made us laugh more, we honestly don't know which one to trust. We think any place that inspires this much vigorous criticism is a place worth judging for yourself.

Sura [MenuPages]
Sura [Official Site]

[Photo: breaking a long-standing self-ban on repeating pictures, Sura]

Meet & Greet: Jaslene Gonzalez @ Rumba

jaslene.jpg Hold the phone, do we mean Jaslene Gonzalez, winner of America's Next Top Model Cycle 8? Oh, you better believe it. Chicago's very own CoverGirl and Elite Model will be making the rounds tonight at Rumba, where a $15 cover will buy you canapés, a drink, and the chance to bask in the glow of America's current top model. Maybe she will even let you shake her hand! Door's at 6pm, appetizers will be served from 7pm-9pm, and Ms. Gonzalez will be making her appearance at around 8pm (you can take that with a grain of salt). Best to make a reservation at (312) 222-1226. Special note: apparently, "fashionista attire" will be required to enter the inner sanctum, so leave your hot pants and yellow lipstick at home. Or not...

Jaslene Gonzalez [Wikipedia]
America's Next Top Model Cycle 8 [Wikipedia]
Rumba [MenuPages]
Rumba [Official Site]

[Photo: Reality TV Calendar]

Opening: Amphora, Am-againsta

Apologies for the wordplay, and for not bringing you the details of Amphora sooner. You may recall that the Reader previewed the restaurant last Friday, and at that time, we were deeply ignorant to the mere existence of the restaurant. Well, fast forward a few days and suddenly we have their menu online. Ah, technology - time was when it would have taken three weeks by stagecoach for news of Amphora's opening to reach our ear, and a thousand monks penning a thousand illuminated manuscripts to render the menu for us. Yes, we're thinking historically (albeit in a really anachronistic manner), because the restaurant's name references a common storage vessel from ancient Greek times.

Amphora's food, however, has been modified for the modern Chicago palate, what with an assortment of flatbreads (the vegetarian Athenian has babbaganush, bell peppers, tomato, onion, feta and extra virgin olive oil for $8), salads (running the gambit from Caesar to Caprese to Tabouleh to Greek), and a variety of small and large plates. We are particularly intrigued by their Seven Seas Soup, which changes daily and runs $18. Must be a hell of a soup! Amphora offers a variety of seafood dishes like pan seared scallops (served with red bell pepper coulis and seasonal vegetables for $18), but we're utterly charmed by their Shrimp Dijonghe small plate (baked shrimp in a white wine and garlic butter crust accompanied with a spring mix), a dish that owes its existence more to Lake Michigan culture than Mediterranean.

But possibly the best part about Amphora, especially for Rogers Park residents, is its late night menu. Where else in the neighborhood can you get a trio of Mediterranean bruschettas or baccala cod cakes at 12:45 at night? Exactly. So, a big Καλώς Ήρθατε to Chicago, Amphora; we're happy to have you.

Amphora [MenuPages]
Amphora [Official Site]
The Scene Across From the Bean, Satisfying Pan-Mediterranean, and Disappointing Pan-Asian [Reader]

FYI: Lying In Wait

• Invasion by 17-year cicadas imminent [Tribune]
• Sen. Bayh proposes ban on food and medicine imports from China [Reuters]
• Top ten food trends of 2007 [Institute of Food Techonologists]
• Will cottonseed be the next trendy oil? [QSR Magazine]
• Chicago's oldest BBQ sauce still going strong [Tribune]

May 21, 2007

The NRA Show, Revisited (By Other People)

ice sculpting.jpg

For your convenience, we've compiled and annotated a list of blog posts about the National Restaurant Association show, which wraps up tomorrow. Prepare yourself - it's mostly The Stew, but we'll start out with the Chicagoist:

• Chuck Sudo had a fun time sampling the goods and soaking in the enormity of the Show, and attended some seminars on the slow adaptation of sustainable agricultural products by the restaurant industry and American consciousness [Chicagoist]

• Judy Hevrdejs and Kevin Pang introduce what will prove to be The Stew's voluminous coverage on the show, what with all the new foods and famous chefs. [The Stew]

• Mr. Pang picked his five favorite new food products at the show, including "extreme" lobster bisque and wagyu in ponzu sauce. What's not to like? [The Stew]

• Kevin on Paul Prudhomme, the famous New Orleans chef, who's bullish on his city's recovery, culinarily and otherwise [The Stew]

• Monica Eng ran the NRA's 27th annual 10k race, and they ran out of food for the participants! [The Stew]

• Ms. Eng listed ten things she learned at the show, the most compelling of which is specially designed plastic bags to minimize takeout spillage. Material science! [The Stew]

• One more thing from Monica - nicotine water. You know, like nicotine gum. Why didn't we think of that? [The Stew]

• Judy Hevrdejs reports on new food trends. In: caffeine, mini desserts, locally grown produce, exotic fungi and minerals. Out: low carb, foams, and kiwi, for some reason. Why? We like kiwi! [The Stew]

[Photo: remember how we said there'd be ice sculpting? Neato! - NRA Show Digital Pressroom]

Issue Du Jour: Immigration And The Restaurant Industry

This has not yet metastasized into a full thought for us, but we do have a musing about the latest immigration bill that's currently being hashed out in Congress. The bill calls for a guest worker program based on job skills and education, and work visas would be sponsored by the government instead of by individual businesses. This seems like a somewhat odd choice for a government that otherwise does not generally regulate how people seek employment. Under the current system, businesses can sponsor immigrants if they have job skills that the company needs which cannot be filled by the current U.S. labor poor. Under the new scheme, it appears as though the government will be determining the job skills that the country as a whole needs, and furthermore, in what proportion they're needed. This nationalization of the immigrant labor pool is not sitting well with employers, who are worried that they are not going to be able to secure the type and amount of labor that they need when they need it. That point was driven home to us when we received a press release in which the National Council of Chain Restaurants and the National Restaurant Association react fearfully to the new legislation, citing problems with the proposed electronic work eligibility verification system and with the guest worker program's emphasis on skilled labor.

Why might the restaurant industry be so concerned about those provisions in the immigration bill? The fact that restaurants are the "No. 1 employer of immigrants," according to the National Restaurant Association via the NYTimes, but almost certainly not the top employer of skilled immigrant labor, sheds some light on the industry's fears: that they are being squeezed by a shortage of legal non-skilled immigrant labor, and a curtailment of illegal non-skilled labor owing to the proposed eligibility verification system, among other factors. Basically, the industry is forecasting severe labor shortages as the non-skilled immigrant labor pool shrinks and becomes inaccessible. If the bill passes in its current form (which it probably won't), restaurants are going to have to come up with other tactics to meet their labor demands - either go way off the books with illegal immigrants and hope they don't get shut down by the government, or...raise wages. One sure-fire way to get people to work for you is to pay them well. At sufficiently high wages, the restaurant industry would vastly expand its potential labor pool to include (gasp!) native-born Americans, who have avoided many types of restaurant jobs because they're crappy, exhausting, and non-remunerative.

The outcome of this is that prices at restaurants will probably go up. But if prices were kept artificially low through the economic exploitation of non-papered immigrant laborers, we won't really mind the correction. By the way, we know this analysis is reductive, because no industry (or labor pool) operates in a vacuum. That's why we called it a musing. Were you amused? Tell us.

After Aiding Bill on Immigration, Employers Balk [NYTimes]
Industry leaders express concerns about new immigration proposal [NRN]

Blog Reviews: Week Of Aldermanic Manhood At Stake

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant (what happened to A-L this week?)

ed_smith2.jpg • What goes well with Morseland's famed mojitos? Their equally famed beer-battered macaroni and cheese fritters [Big Sweet Tooth]

• Free coffee while you wait at Over Easy, which uses top-quality ingredients, but seems to do sweet better than savory [Drive-Thru]

• Try some cardamom-flavored Arabic coffee at Petra in the Loop, which you can (unusually for the breed) take to go [Drive-Thru]

• The brisket at Smoque BBQ is juicy, smoky, soft and crisp - no wonder it sells out every day [Chicago Foodies]

• While people seem to like Su Van's brunch, it's nothing special during the week [Chicagoist]

• Check out trendy SushiSamba Rio for brunch, when you avoid the scenesters and have the fusion cuisine in large portions all to yourself [Drive-Thru]

• Brunch at Treat unfortunately does not live up to its name, with entrees arriving sadly overcooked [Chicagoist]

• Indian fusion for lunch at Vermilion? Hit and miss, but sure, why not? [Drive-Thru]

[Photo: Ex-Ald. Ed Smith, Illinois Smokers' Rights (we don't endorse this website)]

Imbibing: Impressing Your Friends On The Cheap

dinner-party-dame.jpg

We're going to let you in on a little secret - the Merch Mart Chopping Block is hosting a class tonight, as part of their Sommelier Series, on how to select wines for the perfect dinner party. What's secret about it? When we called up, it was all we could do to convince them that the event even existed! (It's on their website, which apparently doesn't mean much these days.) That may explain why there are still three spots left. Or maybe that it costs $60.

Anyway, the deal is that Sommelier Belinda Chang (who has slung wine at such illustrious establishments as Charlie Trotter's) will break down for the class how to find the right wines for one's various dinner parties, in order to impress guests while remaining on a budget. Hopefully, that budget includes the sixty big ones for the session, which runs from 6pm to 7:30pm tonight (312-644-6360 to reserve your spot).

This class seems particularly aspirational to us, because our dinner party guests usually fall into two overlapping categories: too unsophisticated to know good wine, or too drunken to care. If it comes in a bottle, people will drink it (even boxed wines are hot right now). But one day in the future, we hope to have sober, discerning friends who will brutally judge us on the provenance and quality of wine we provide them. What fun!

May Events [Chopping Block]
Charlie Trotter's [MenuPages]
Charlie Trotter's [Official Site]
Box Wines [Official Site]

[Photo: Dinner Party Dame by Chris Wake]

FYI: Today Could Be The Day!

• City Council back in session; will FG ban be repealed? [Tribune]
• Rachael Ray fights hunger and sounds like an idiot [ABCNews]
• Ready for a fourth artificial sweetener on your table? [Tribune]
• "Low risk" from melamine-contaminated chickens we're about to eat [Wisconson Ag]
• R.I.P. Karen Hess, who thought American food was bad, and American food writing was worse [Toronto Star]

May 18, 2007

Convention Mention: The NRA Show

Haha, you totally thought we meant National Rifle Association. Of course not! It's the National Restaurant Association, and it's happening right now (yesterday through to Sunday). If that weren't enough, the Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show is overlapping it, running from tomorrow to Tuesday. We'd like to say it's pretty great that all these food-related conventions take place in Chicago, because they don't have to; there are a lot of cities with lots of convention square footage that are cheaper (and in fact, we're starting to lose a few shows to Las Vegas), but evidently, we have sex appeal.

connect_youbased.jpg And boy, are there sexy things happening at the shows this weekend. For starters, the R,H-M show got a personality no less famous and relevant than freakin' Fred Thompson, former Senator/current D.A. on Law & Order/future President (!?!), to give the keynote address on Sunday. Now, Fred Thompson has a pretty extensive biography in government and entertainment, but nothing in particular in his history to do with restaurants, hotels or motels. Convention chair William C. Anton explains, "We are honored to have Mr. Thompson at the 2007 National Restaurant Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show and look forward to sharing his insight into politics, Hollywood, foreign relations and life." LIFE. Of course.

You know what else is happening? The Ice Carving Classic. Hell yeah, and the grand prize is $2.5k, no small shavings. And we bet the Illinois Restaurant Association Luncheon on Monday is going to be all aflutter with rumors about the potential foie gras ban takedown at City Council.

Plus, the Sun-Times has the scoop on two new products being debuted at the show: one's a piece of software that will let restaurants know when your table will be ready (no, seriously), and the other is an "anti-griddle" with a surface temp of -30F, enough to stop even Grant Achatz. By the way, did we mention he'll be doing the demos?

We'll have more coverage next week, but we have to go home and lie down right now - bad Chinese food last night, don't ask. Have a good weekend!

NRA Show [Official Site]
Fred Thompson to Speak at 2007 NRA Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show [Official Site]
NRA Show Events [Official Site]
Software gets restaurant waits down to a science [Sun-Times]

[Photo: This looks like the fallout shelter symbol - My NRA Show: Start Networking Now]

Menu Revealed! The Walnut Room Shares Its Secrets

Ever wonder what people are actually eating when they make their pilgrimage to the The Walnut Room? walnut room tree.JPG A holiday tradition for many, the WR weathered that transition nobody like to talk about, and it continues to churn out arguably the best mall food in the Midwest (we will not opine). Did you know that you can get lobster ravioli with leeks, corn, garlic, edamame and basil in a smoked tomato broth ($12.95)? Or seared sea scallops, marinated with garlic, ginger and green onion and served over mixed greens, napa cabbage, peppers and carrots with a caramelized pineapple vinaigrette and crispy shoestring potatoes for $10.95?

Blows the mind a little. Also, they're even on top of the microdessert trend the Sun-Times was talking about on Wednesday, with their World's Smallest Banana Split (Oberweis vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, caramel sauce, banana, candied walnuts, whipped cream - $2.95).

Come to think of it, Chicago has quite a few destination restaurants in department stores, like the Zodiac Room at Neiman Marcus, and American Girl Place at...American Girl Place. But neither of those interlopers have the famed Christmas tree - last year's was designed by Vera Wang!

The Walnut Room [MenuPages]
Zodiac Room [MenuPages]
American Girl Place [MenuPages]
American Girl Place [Official Site]

[Photo: czeltic girl/flickr]

Review Revue: Reader @ The Gage, Amphora & Republic

This week, the Reader heads to two heavily reviewed restaurants and makes similar pronouncements, and to a third restaurant that we hadn't even heard of until this morning - shame on us!

Amphora.jpg Rob Christopher had a fine time at The Gage, where he found the large menu to be both cohesive and of uniformly high quality (even for the price). He especially enjoyed dishes that combined cooked greens and creamy, cheesy sauces (Gage N-17 Fondue with Butter Kaase, Brie, Spinach, Toast for $6; Brie, Bacon, Brussels Sprouts, also for $6 - who's complaining about prices?). A slight minus for the non-local riffraff ambling in from Millennium Park, but why shouldn't tourists eat well? It will make them all the more bitter that they don't live in Chicago.

David Hammond doesn't really care that Amphora (7547 N Clark St, 773-262-5767) is not particularly authentic (no truly nationalistic Greek restaurant would offer Caesar salad or shrimp de Jonghe), but it turns out that the food is pretty good - seasonings are light where they should be light and heavy where they should be heavy, and meat is properly cooked. Sometimes, unfortunately, that's a lot to ask for. But Rogers Park has been having something of a restaurant boom lately, so welcome aboard, Amphora. Also, note that the ceiling is decorated with hanging examples of the restaurant's namesake, which is pretty nifty.

Chip Dudley is all but aghast at the strange service he received during his recent visit to Republic, echoing the growing pains described by previous reviewers of the restaurant. Something about...sake not showing up, and waiters being publicly chastised. The details aren't entirely important, but we're really not sure why the Zhang family is letting things slip so severely at their new restaurant.

The Scene Across From the Bean, Satisfying Pan-Mediterranean, and Disappointing Pan-Asian [Reader]
The Gage [MenuPages]
The Gage [Official Site]
Republic [MenuPages]
Republic [Official Site]

[Photo: an amphora, Museo Gregoriano Etrusco I]

FYI: Too Little, Too Late

• Brown Chicken murderer's life spared by one reasonable juror [Tribune]
• Applebees-come-lately drops trans fat [Associated Content]
• Street food vending banned in New Delhi! [Reuters]
• Britain boards folic acid train, reluctantly [Guardian Unlimited]
• Miller begins aggresive new ad campaign to win back customers from Bud Light; our advice - hire back Errol Morris [Tribune]

May 17, 2007

Closing: Benihana

benihana.JPG In a blow to performative dining in Chicago, the only local branch of Benihana closed this past Tuesday. Just where are tacky people going to get their Japanese food now? Good news! RA Sushi is owned by the Benihana people, and is in no danger of going anywhere. We went to a Benihana once, and the guy who was doing our shrimp missed when he he tried to flip the shells into his chef's hat. Also, the steak wasn't great, and it was expensive. We don't say good riddance, because we the theatricallity eventually wore down our jaded demeanor, but...we don't think it's a crime that the closest Benihanas are in Lombard, Wheeling and Schaumburg - exactly where they belong.

Benihana [MenuPages]
Benihana [Official Site]
RA Sushi [MenuPages]
RA Sushi [Official Site]

[Photo: Benihana Chef by the inimitable Zesmerelda/flickr]

Review Revue: Tribune & TOC @ Parlor, Jaffa Bakery, Vella, The Pump Room And So Much More!

Slightly abbreviated for your short attention span, with no distracting photographs

Let's start with the Trib:

Leading off the reviews this week is Phil Vettel at Parlor in Wicker Park, where the chef line-up changes as often as the menu. Its homey new American cuisine is more than adequate, if occasionally less than inspired, and if there's a single compelling reason to go to Parlor, it's for their fried chicken & waffles ($15). Service is good, Vettel reports, and some days, we're willing to trade innovation for that.

• Meanwhile, Phil thinks that what Chicago needs is a Restaurant Week. Right on! Although the deals are never as good as they seem, and the food is never as good as during the rest of the year. Still, it gets you to try places you'd otherwise not have.

• Donna Pierce heads to mini-chain Jaffa Bakery in the Loop, where you can get freshly roasted turkey on a freshly baked bagel (recommended) and falafel (feh). Still, any place that's willing to offer both is commendable, and if they can do either one well (in this case, the bagels), even more so.

• Trine Tsouderos has a nice feature on seasonal dining in Chicago. The short answer is, seasonal food tastes better because it's fresher; work with the Earth's natural cycles while they still exist. See also the list of restaurants that emphasize seasonal ingredients, since it represents some of the best dining in Chicago (unsurprisingly, seasonal is not cheap).

• Hey, the return of an old feature: "Tablehopping" is back, and biting at newcomers Coal Fire and The Gage. Coal Fire has been so inundated with pizzaphiles (the LTH effect?) that they haven't been able to send us their menu yet, but everyone says it's fantastic, including Joe Gray, who visited for the Trib. Meanwhile, one of The Gage's greatest assets (aside from its delish gastropub fare) is their sidewalk cafe, from which you can see all that funny-looking art in Millennium Park. Judy Hevrdejs vowed never to eat brunch inside again (until Chicago weather demands otherwise, which happens virtually every weekend).

Okay, moving right along to TOC:

• David Tamarkin is sympathetic to the plight of the Pump Room, which has been pumping away for so many years that people don't pay it much mind anymore. It's not the menu, which is au currant New American, but something ineffable that's keeping the dining room empty on weeknights. When LEYE traded TPR to the Omni Group, a bit of the soul that made the place special was lost, and now they're having trouble forging an identity that connects with the hipper, younger crowd virtually every restaurant covets - often unnecessarily, and often to their peril.

• Heather Shouse has always loved the culinary stylings of Melissa Yen and Sara Voden and has been following their panini around Chicago's various mobile food marts (like Green City Market); her joy at the opening of their new Vella Cafe is quite palpable in this blurb, as it was in our own description yesterday. Get ready for some of the freshest pressed sandwiches this side of the Atlantic, and great breakfast wraps, too.

• In other news, cool things include Bruce Sherman of North Pond, old-skool-midwestern Cordis Brothers Supper Club (which just opened), and the VIP room at Manor.

See? That wasn't so bad, now was it.

Opening: Côtes Du Rhone

cartesrhone.jpg Yeah, we know that Côtes du Rhone Bistro did not just open, but a lot of people have been talking about it, and without a menu online, what's the point of even bothering with serious analysis? Anyway, now you can contextualize all the chatter (some good, more bad, most ambivalent) because you know that their escargot costs $7, their cassoulet, $17, and their rack of lamb, $27 (alas, nothing costs $37 to complete the series). It is a very standard bistro menu, albeit maybe with more fish than usual (then again, côtes does mean coast); hopefully they will iron out the kinks everyone's been complaining about so they can take their place as a consistent and reliable neighborhood spot. By the way, given how closely associated "Cotês Du Rhone" is with wine, it's a pretty ballsy move to go BYOB. Hmm, we wonder what kind of wine we should bring...

Cotes du Rhone Bistro [MenuPages]
Cotes du Rhone? [Chowhound]
Cotes du Rhone [Centerstage]
Cotes du Rhone - coming soon [LTHForum]
Quick Review: Cotes du Rhone [Drive-Thru]

[Photo: Richard James/Wine words]

Imbibing: The Desperation of Mad River

Waters must be rather choppy at Mad River Bar & Grille, if their latest promotion is any indication. Today, the old warhorse is offering six (6) special deals to win the hearts and minds of Wrigleyvillers.

mad river.JPG From 11am to 5pm, you can get a free appetizer with purchase of sandwich or entree, which is a normal enough offer, but also, expect a double punch on your lunch card. We had to sit and figure out what this meant for a sec, until we read what was in the parentheses next to it (buy four lunches and get the fifth one free). So basically, they'll stamp you twice for buying one lunch. Your loyalty is worth twice as much today!

Dinner (5pm-2am, although the kitchen closes earlier than that) brings a whole new round of incentives: appetizers are half-priced, and so are bombs. BOMBS?!?! Maybe we got the newsletter for Mad River Baghdad by mistake. No, instead, you can drop shots of booze into beer on the cheap; what fun. Furthermore, $10 at the door will buy you some amount of Coors Light draft, mixed well drinks and pizza - probably the best deal of the lot. But wait! Behind door number two, the first fifty people who show up this evening win a prize. What, a seat at the bar? A crappy, sugary shot the color of one those poisonous frogs? The possibilities are endless!

It's not like Mad River is in its death throes, but all these deals are ominous - sure, they'll make back the money on drink purchases, but why do they need to promise the world to get you in the door? We think this scattershot approach reflects poorly on the bar's popularity, and that they would be better off with a single, compelling event (like Dating on Demand, which they did in April).

Mad River [MenuPages]
Mad River [Official Site]
[Photo: their website]

FYI: Food Gets More Expensive, Less Palatable

• Food prices subject to climate double-whammy [MarketWatch]
• Soon, you can eat the hogs that ate melamine! [Medill Reports]
• Chinese food exports undergo pricey scrutiny [Reuters]
• Australia's health minister loves junk food ads [Border Mail]
• Our Olympics logo? Totally illegal [Tribune]

May 16, 2007

When Spam Isn't Savory...

dubai sugar.jpg

We get some pretty nutty spam every day, but the specificity of the offer and the volume of information presented about the company (and the color scheme) in the above advert caught our attention. One hundred thousand metric tons of sugar...sure, send it right over. Actually, step 5 of the transaction plan mandates that the buyer visits the warehouse in Dubai. We love that their website calls it "fly and buy;" while you're there, you can pick up some racehorses and giant buildings. Sugarcart's motto, "Sugar is not sweet until it touches your tongue !!!!" (emphasis on the exclamation points), is deeply philosophical, or at least deserves the attention of a linguist. Also, their price of $418 per metric ton is totally ridiculous, considering that it's trading for around $100 less on the various futures exchanges. What a rip-off!

We'd like to believe that we received the email around this time because of the controversy surrounding sugar substitutes. Basically, the people who make Nutrasweet and equal (Merisant, based in Chicago!) sued the people who make Splenda (McNeil Nutritionals, based somewhere else so who cares), for false advertising. Apparently, "made from sugar so it tastes like sugar" is so confusing that people think Splenda actually is sugar, according to Merisant. A bit of desperation in response to Splenda's rapid takeover of the sugar substitute market. Anyway, they settled out of court - maybe they'll buy each other, who knows. For our part, we will continue using either small amounts of sugar in the raw, or no sweetener at all (take that, sugarcart!)

Fly & Buy Sugar from Dubai [sugarcart]
Burj Dubai [Official Site]
Merisant, McNeil reach quiet settlement in Splenda battle [Food Navigator]

[Photo: a screencap of the spam they sent us]

Review Revue: Sun-Times @ Alhambra, Soul Vegetarian East, And Little Desserts

Okay, so today's ST is not at little desserts; that does not make grammatical sense. Instead, Jennifer Olvera outlines a new trend toward smaller portions in dessert menus around the city. Yes, and why not? People put off by a big dessert, especially at lunch time, have been increasingly won over by innovate concepts like "The World's Smallest Dessert Menu," offered during the day at Vong's Thai Kitchen. Featuring ten items for $1 or $1.50 like passion fruit soufflé with passion fruit ice cream and warm valrhona chocolate cake with coconut sorbet, diners now have the option to indulge their sweet teeth just a tiny bit, without feeling overly guilty about calories or the bill. Managing partner Jeffrey Alexander reports that proportion of patrons ordering dessert during lunch has increased from 10% to 70% following the introduction of the special menu. That's a lot! More restaurants should institute microportion dollar menus. Can you imagine the joy of ordering, say, twenty different items, each one around two bites large? Someone please do this, asap.

On to the reviews. Denise O'Neal heads dutifully to Alhambra Palace, which she's already dubbed "a tourist attraction," is treating her right with its Chicken ala Marakesh (ready for the description? "A beautiful marriage of soft, slowly cooked boneless chicken breast, regional herbs & seasonings and julienne of vegetables in our 'signature' fresh pomegranate & walnut sauce [dish served with couscous and prepared in authentic Moroccan Tagine cookware]." soulveg-carrot.jpg All those words, and only $20) and good hummus. But even if you don't love the food (or, according to the reviews on MenuPages, the service), O'Neal insists that we head over to check out the grandeur, which will "leave you feeling as though you have been transported to another world." Of tackiness.

Lisa Donovan hits up Soul Vegetarian East (205 E 75th St, 773-224-0104; we don't have the menu right now, but check back later today), whose vegan cuisine is inspired by owner Prince Asiel Ben-Israel's religious beliefs. He and his wife Yohanna are African Hebrew Israelites, one of the purported "lost tribes" of Israel (for a gross oversimplification, think of it as a Jewish version of Rastafarianism), and among the Biblical passages they take seriously, one from Genesis stands out in informing their dietary choices: "God also said: 'See, I give you every seed-bearing plant all over the earth and every tree that has seed-bearing fruit on it to be your food." There's plenty of stuff in the Bible about eating animals, too, but whatever - Soul Veg's offerings are a hell of a lot healthier than standard soul food fare, but similarly spiced and entirely enjoyable. Good for the Earth, good for the body, good for the soul, and all that jazz.

Downsizing desserts [Sun-Times]
Vong's Thai Kitchen [MenuPages]
Vong's Thai Kitchen [Official Site]
Award-winning chef creates royal digs, menu [Sun-Times]
Alhambra Palace [MenuPages]
Alhambra Palace [Official Site]
Religion, food choices go hand in hand at restaurant

[Photo: Carrot burger from Soul Vegetarian East, courtesy of PJ Chmiel's Vegan in Chicago]

Truffle Oil: Fresh From A Vat In Northern New Jersey

Truffles are not a food item that we are able to indulge in very often; they're really freakin' expensive (upwards of $1k/kilo, wholesale), and are only available for a few months of the year. Actually, have we ever had shaved truffles? truffle oil.jpg We're not even sure. But we're positive that we've had truffle oil, which appears on dishes at restaurants where you can get out for under $50 a person. And you know what? We haven't loved it; the taste is so intense that it tends to overwhelm everything else on the plate. We felt bad about this because truffles are sophisticated and if we didn't like truffle oil, did that mean that we were unsophisticated? Quel horreur!

So it came as both relief and disgust to read in today's NYTimes Dining Section that truffle oil...isn't made from truffles! In fact, not just most, but all truffle oil on the market is basically olive oil spiked with some of the few chemical compounds that make truffles taste like truffles. The end result is a liquid with "one-dimensional flavor" (obviously, not all the compounds in truffles are represented) that has never been anywhere near a mushroom. We feel so much better that what we've recoiling from is really just artificial flavoring, and not something too complex and wonderful for us to understand.

That said, it is possible to make truffle oil "work" in a dish, provided it's used sparingly. Even Grant Achatz dabbles in the stuff: “I used to use white truffle oil a lot, but now I only use a little bit in my liquid black truffle ravioli...it adds a little more perfume, a slightly different flavor." Achatz goes on to say that "...it doesn’t even taste like truffle."

Oh well, another secret revealed. Wanna check it out for yourself? You can buy a bottle of the stuff at your finer gorcers, and you can find truffle oil featured in dishes around Chicago (aside from at Alinea). The Cape Cod Room has an oven-roasted Amish chicken with truffle oil (Amish chicken breast with choice of baked, mashed or au gratin potato & Vegetable of the Day, $23), and on the other end of the culinary spectrum, Wakamono has a red snapper sashimi appetizer with truffle oil for $8. Riccardo Trattoria has a porcini mushroom risotto with truffle oil for $18, and you can even get truffle oil afloat - namely, on the Odyssey Cruises, where one of the dinner salad options (baby frissee, radiccio and other exotic greens tossed with shaved parmesan cheese and yellow tear-drop tomatoes) is served with a truffle oil vinaigrette. Unless you like that explosion of artifice Americans sometimes crave, we advise you request that the kitchen go light.

Hocus-Pocus, and a Beaker of Truffles [NYTimes]
Alinea [MenuPages]
Alinea [Official Site]
Cape Cod Room [MenuPages]
Cape Cod Room [Official Site]
Wakamono [MenuPages]
Wakamono [Official Site]
Riccardo Trattoria [MenuPages]
Odyssey Cruises [MenuPages]
Odyssey Cruises [Official Site]

[Photo: Sabatino Tartufi]

Opening: Vella Cafe

We were sucking on our Daily Candy this morning when a listing for Vella Cafe caught our eye - "what a cute little panino that is!" we said to ourselves. vella.jpgvella.gifSo we acquired the menu and started typing it up, getting hungrier and hungrier as we read descriptions like "grilled Moroccan spiced chicken breast panino with caramelized onion, spinach, and raw milk gouda" ($7.50) and "sausage frittata panino with caramelized onions, adjvar mayo & butterkase, served with smashers" ($6.75). Who ever heard of such fancy ingredients on a humble panino? Well, owners Sara Voden and Melissa Yen have been whipping up (toasting down?) these sandwiches for years now at the Green City Market, from which their stocks were sourced. Their twice weekly operating schedule was woefully insufficient for hungry Chicagoans, so their new cafe is open weekdays from 7am to 3pm, and weekends from 9am-3pm (a period which they call "blunch." A little odd, since you'd think that blunch would imply more lunch items than brunch does, but the blunch menu is mostly comprised of breakfasty things like eggs and pancakes). It's great to see another casual breakfasting spot in Bucktown, because lines aren't getting any shorter and we're not getting any younger. By the way, if you were wondering what the deal is with the "smashers" that come with the frittatas, they're smashed red potatoes that are mixed with olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika, and then baked. And now you know.

Vella Cafe [MenuPages]
Vella Cafe [Official Site]
Chew, Chew! [DailyCandy]
Gourmet Picnic In Lincoln Park" [chicagoTips]

[Photos: from the articles]

FYI: Silly, Obvious & Titillating

• House Reps. try, and are sobered by, "food stamp challenge" [Reuters]
• Someone slipped on a banana peel and it cost you $4,110 [Sun-Times]
• Are whole grains good for you? That's a stupid question [NYTimes]
• Does it suck to be a food server? Also a stupid question [Redeye]
• Phil Vettel is enamored with the new cookbook boys [The Stew]

May 15, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Haemul Pajun @ Jin Ju

haemul pajun.jpg

We're totally feeling dishes that aren't immediately identifiable on sight; last week, we took a gander at some cheese rosettes. Today...well, what do you think it is? It sort of looks like macaroni salad, right?

Of course not! Those glistening tubes are squid, not noodles. Say hello to haemul pajun ($7.50) from Jin Ju, in Edgewater. Semi-obscured by the mass of cephalopods is a scallion pancake, or pajun (haemul, or hae moul, or hey-mul, means seafood); you can see the scallions poking up here and there, nicely charred, and a mass at the bottom that are covered in fried oil. Near the back of the pancake, a small colony of shucked mussels awaits its inevitable fate under cover of hot sauce. This is a somewhat unusual arrangement for haemul pajun: more often, the seafood is mixed in with the pancake material, but not in this case. Advantages of this separation include being able to cook the seafood separately and differently from the pancake, optimizing each ingredient. From the looks of things here, they know exactly what they're doing.

Jin Ju [MenuPages]

[Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr, who is nigh unstoppable]

Unholy Matrimony: And Then There Was Pizza Beer

So, honey beer and chocolate beer are pretty common, and everyone and their mother knows about coffee beer, whose release a few years back stirred up a storm of media coverage. Well, a new type of wacky beer is hitting Aurora, and it ain't pretty: pizza beer. Yes, you heard us. Unlike the other beer flavorings we mentioned, pizza is not usually found in liquid form. Before we address the implications of the union of pizza and beer, let us first try to get a handle on how this is even possible.

pizza beer.jpg Tom Seefurth, an amateur brewer in St Charles, was inspired by how naturally beer seems to pair with pizza. Certainly, the dry, subtle sweetness and carbonation of beer help cut through the greasy spice and carbonized crust of a good slice. Sensing an opportunity (actually, he had a surplus of tomatoes and garlic lying around), Seefurth flavored a barley-based beer with oregano, garlic, basil and tomato, and, believe it or not, actual pieces of real pizza, too. Sounds a little chunky, but the concoction, called Mamma Mia’s Pizza Beer, has already won several awards at homebrew competitions, and is currently being featured at Walter Payton’s Roundhouse in Aurora (205 N Broadway, 630-892-0034).

We don't entirely know what to make of this. Once the initial shock wears off, it certainly makes sense that savory would work as well as sweet when it comes to beer additives. Garlic in beer? No, it's not quite the category violation it seems at the outset. After all, beer is more or less just foamy liquid bread - garlic bread is a natural evolution. If executed well, the impulse to combine two great things into one amazing thing is admirable. While we have trouble seeing this as a mass-market product, and we're not even sure we'd want to drink it with pizza (too much!), we believe Mamma Mia's Pizza to be a Good Thing. Excellent work adding savory flavors to beer, Mr. Seefurth - can you make curry beer next?

Rwandan coffee used to make beer [BBC News]
Mmmm, pizza beer [beep]
Suburban Hobbyist Puts New Spin On Beer And Pizza [cbs2chicago]

[Photo: Screencap from cbs2chicago showing mini-pizzas being tossed into the brew]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Sushi Wabi, El Jardin & La Cucina Di Donatella

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are three of the best from the past week, each of which wrestles with the relevance of authenticity in ethnic dining:

This well-considered, but negative, review for Sushi Wabi was filed by "sking" on May 10th:
I went here because of the good reviews I've heard and it was really disappointing - especially for what you pay. For what you're paying, you should be getting something above mid-tier. It's nothing like Mirai or Hama Matsu, but it should be quality stuff. The rice was really bland. Sushi rice should contain sugar, salt, and rice wine vinegar just enough to so if you ate it plain or in a bowl (like chirashi), it should have flavor and be really sticky. Their rice tasted like it lacked the key ingredients that make sushi rice. Not to mention it was mushed and sloppy. The rice was the same quality as rice in supermarket sushi. The fish was a little better (thankfully), but the variety was very standard. A good sushi place should have signature and inventive specialties. Measuring a sushi place by their dragon and rainbow rolls is like measuring a steakhouse solely by their hamburgers; it's incomplete and a short measure. Considering the restaurant is by all the quality fishmongers in Chicago, you would expect the fish to be fresher too. Like I said though, I could deal with a lot of these traits if I wasn't paying as much as I did. I'll go again if someone else is paying, but otherwise, no thanks.
This reviewer gained our trust with his knowledge about the intricacies of sushi rice, and cemented it with his steakhouse analogy. We could do without restaurants that are okay acting like they're something special and charging through the nose for it, too.
* * *

Later that day, "out of towners" largely enjoyed their dinner at El Jardin:
the food was nothing special--very average mexican food--but the service is wonderful--so nice!!--and the patio is a great place to hang out with friends, eat and drink lots of (incredibly strong--not small at all!) margaritas. very pleasant, relaxed atmosphere. the queso fundido was great. and although the menu says chips refills cost extra, they gave them to us for free without comment. really nice, friendly waitstaff, and killer patio. a fun spot, as long as you're not in it for gourmet food.
Unlike the last reviewer, "out of towner" had no particular expectations of quality, which is just as well because they didn't find much in the food. But they took stock, realized that the outdoor seating was lovely and the drinks were strong, and had a good time anyway. We wish we could be that well-adjusted.
* * *

Finally, on May 13th, "SBakall" rose to the defense of La Cucina Di Donatella
The food is magnificent here... The best fish & pasta dishes I have ever tasted (love the pasta with boscaiola sauce). I read so many complaints about the charge for cheese & butter.. Why? Only in the US do we feel the need to goop together oil & cheese to dip our bread into in order to eat it. Also, you go to a place like Tru or Charlie Trotter's.. they serve you a course.. you don't ask for add'l condiments because it was presented to you as the chef intended for it to be enoyed.. If you want unlimited & cheese & butter, go to Maggiano's... but if you want a true homecooked, classic and delicious italian meal, come here..
This review is quite glowing, stoked by red-hot anger over complaints cover charge for butter and cheese (where these complaints are is beyond us; this is the first review for the restaurant on MP). In old country, people are less gluttonous, and those pre-dinner snacks are á la carte. How dare Americans expect the same freebies that they get everywhere else? It's possible that this is a shill, but in the likely case that "SBakall" is simply a customer, there must be something compelling enough about La Cucina Di Donatella to warrant this much defensiveness.

Imbibing: Sparkling Wines Of The World @ The Tasting Room

If someone said "carbonated wine," first you would think, "ew, that sounds downscale," and then you would realize that's what champagne is, and you'd shrug, and you'd ask your interlocutor, "what about it?"

champagne.jpg Let us take this out of the hypothetical - tonight, at the Tasting Room at Randolph Wine Cellars, $30 will buy you a ticket into the world of "bubblies," which goes way beyond what's produced in the Champagne region of France. From 6pm-8pm, over light hors d'oeuvres, you can try sparkling wines from Italy (asti, dolcetto, prosecco), Spain (cava), France (champagne, obviously), and a few selections from California and the Pacific Northwest. There are over thirty to try, and there will be a retail discount should you wish to purchase any of the bottles.

This is a good season to be paying attention to sparkling wines. Everyone likes to sip something with a little fizzle on a warm spring evening, even if it's just out on a porch or fire escape landing. Champagne is so clichéd and overpriced, but if you pull out a prosecco or a cava, people will think you're knowledgeable and sophisticated, when the truth is, you're just cheap and wily. But nobody needs to know that.

Tasting Room Events [Official Site]

[Photo: Quentin Jones/The Age]

FYI: Foie Gras Follies

• FG Update 1: Ald. Burke moves to allow Council to vote on repeal immediately [Tribune]
• FG Update 2: Ald. Smith, Health Committee chair, resigns over FG mutiny [Sun-Times]
• Chinese seafood imports increasingly rejected due to vet. drug contamination [Food&Water Watch]
• With technology, wine can grow anywhere, even equatorial Brazil [NYTimes]
• McD's employee-turnover rate reaches 130% - but is it unfixable? (Hint: yes) [Tribune]

May 14, 2007

Foie Gras Ban In Death Throes?

foiegrascalamansimustardseed.jpg At the end of April, we pointed you toward Chuck Sudo's profile of the new president of the Illinois Restaurant Association, Sheila O'Grady, who has stated that one of the primary goals for her tenure is the repeal of the foie gras ban. Well, it looks like the other shoe is starting to drop: today, Daley announced that he plans to put a repeal of the ban to vote at one of the next two City Council meetings. This was to the enormous displeasure of Ald. Ed Smith, chairman of the Health Committee, who said that he would resign were that to take place because "[his] professionalism, [his] manhood, [his] integrity is at stake." Not to mention the birds! It is unlikely that the vote will take place at the inaugural meeting of the Council next Monday, but we're keeping our ears to the tracks and trying not to get overly excited.

Daley targets foie gras ban [Clout Street]

[Photo: Goose foie gras with calamansi lime-smoked soy condiment, calamansi lime marmalade, pickled mustard seeds and sauternes syrup, Ideas in Food]

Dispatches From Foreign Lands: Beer, The Wonder Drug

Late last week, the Central Chronicle of Bhopal, India, published an opinion piece on the health benefits of drinking beer. This is not an entirely new topic; we've gotten used to reports in recent years of small amounts of various alcohols having salutary effects. Yes, beer contains B vitamins, lowers the risk of coronary heart disease (by increasing HDL and decreasing LDL), and reduces blood clotting. It even has more protein than milk (a new one on us).

beer%20health.jpg What struck us about this article was not the factual information it provided - the factoid about protein notwithstanding - is its language, tone, and unclear raison d'être. The author, PS Prakasa Rao, appears to be some sort of agricultural scientist. Of course, the Central Chronicle covers a state with over 60 million people (Madhya Pradesh), and it's certainly possible that there's more than one PS Prakasa Rao capable of writing this piece. But unless it was written by some sort of local beer magnate, what can justify glowing praise like "beer is only an agri-food. In fact, Beer is better than Milk. A glass of beer contains more protein than does the same quantity of milk. What's more, beer has fewer calories than apple juice, milk or cola and contains neither fat nor cholesterol." It takes a lot of chutzpah to imply that beer is healthier than milk or apple juice, without much qualification. Eventually, Rao reveals some stunning insights like, "people with alcoholism or drug addictions should not drink beer," and "people with liver, pancreatic diseases, or really, any type of chronic disease should speak with their doctor."

Really. Well, just who is this intended for, anyway? Someone who doesn't know that "pregnant or breast-feeding women should not drink beer," but can readily understand a sentence like "these quantities [of helpful minerals] tend to improve commensurate to the quality of the beer." This article might represent desperation or incompetence on the part of the editors of the Central Chronicle, but assuming that this type of opinion piece is common in Indian newspapers (which have an extremely high readership rate, generally), it really speaks to entirely disparate knowledge distribution channels in the U.S. and India. A piece like this would never run in a major newspaper in the United States because it's simultaneously too facile and too technical - what an unusual combination of characteristics! Someone with the appropriate Ph.Ds could probably speak, at length, about the educational practices and sociocultural logic behind it, but lacking advanced degrees ourself, we're just going to appreciate the differences and consider having a beer after work. Perhaps a Kingfisher?

Eagle's Eye: Can drinking beer be good for you? [Central Chronicle]

[Photo: Pfiff!]

Blog Reviews: Week Of Fake Red Snapper

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• Reasonably priced pastas and quartinos of Italian wine at newcomer Anteprima, where diners can also find hallmarks of "serious rustic Italian cuisine" like baby goat and tripe [Drive-Thru]

snapper.jpg • The tapas keeps rolling in at Azucar, which has become quite crowded since we last checked in; plan on a long meal with occasional culinary disappointments [Chicagoist]

• Everything (but the desserts) are exceptionally well-prepared and delicious at Baccala, where the fat content of the dishes is enough to clog the arteries of a teenage athlete [Skillet Doux]

• Finally, a good torta in the Loop from Bombon Cafe, a rapidly expanding mini-empire about to open its fourth location [Drive-Thru]

• Promising Edgewater bistro Cotes de Rhone fails to deliver, with uninspired seafood, characterless chocolate cake, and deadly decor [Drive-Thru]

• Holy crap! Such a thing as seven courses of fish exists, and at Pho 777, they do one better and offer eight. A must eat for under $20, but bring a friend because there's a minimum of two orders per table [Skillet Doux]

• In all of our coverage of Republic, we never would have thought about lunch there. Turns out, it's a reasonably good deal [The Stew]

snapper 2.jpg • At Shaw's Crab House, soft shells are in season and available two ways: tempura'd and satuéed. Get 'em while they're hot [Drive-Thru]

• The progenitor of the chain, Tuscany on Taylor keeping it real with tableside mashed garlic, huge, delicious portions, and honest, loving service [Olive&Mason]

• Stalwart Uncle Julio's Hacienda provides efficient service and thoroughly enjoyable chips and salsa, both required amenities for families with small children [Chicagoist]

[Photos: Vittorio's (bottom left) and Endeavors (top right)]

Opening: Hop Häus

hop haus.jpg

When we last addressed Hop Haus a week and a half ago, Heather Shouse was lamenting its poorly-cooked burgers while praising the topping choices and the range and accuracy of the beer pairings. Well, it took us long enough but we finally got a hold of the menu. It features twenty burger options - around half not made with beef (salmon and veggie, sure, but also kangaroo, ostrich and boar) - topped with a variety of cheeses, vegetables and sauces, and listed with a suggested beer pairing. The burgers run from $10 to $13, and patrons can almost be forgiven for assuming that the beer pairings are included in the cost of the burger. Obviously, this is not the case, and the suggested imported and artisanal beers are an additional $7 to $11, depending on the selection. This is a brilliant marketing idea, steering customers towards expensive beers instead of, you know, a Budweiser or something, but not listing the price of the beer is a little shady. Meanwhile, we like the sides that come with the Mexican burger (Mexican brickman's pepperjack cheese, sliced avocado and chipotle sauce, $9.95), pictured above. This particular incarnation is meant to be paired with Old Engine Oil, a dark, Scottish beer. We see nothing wrong with that in the slightest.

Hop Haus [MenuPages]

[Photo: little_achiever/flickr]

FYI: Americans, Chinese, Fast Food, Salmon Running Scared

• Melamine found in Alaskan farmed salmon feed [Northwest]
• Someone is finally trying to quantify pet deaths [Fox/South Bend]
• Selling food and drug regulation to the Chinese citizenry [Xinhua]
• 130k people say "no thanks" to food from cloned animals [ThePoultrySite]
• Consumers addicted to fast food, fast food coupons [Journal Gazette]

May 11, 2007

Alternatively, Make Mom Feel Special!

momsday.jpg

Oh yeah, real special.

MenuPages Reviews Gone Wild!

Late last night, we received two brilliant - but unusable - reviews from "Anand". Unusable, that is, for the site; for the blog, it's party time. We don't believe these to be accurate assessments of the restaurants, but they are thoroughly enjoyable anyway. The names have been removed to protect the innocent (from Google), but we will give you hints.

The first one is for a popular Indian restaurant in River North, and comes with recommendations for improvement directed toward the management:
This is one of the best indian restaurants in chicago, but that is not saying much! *******'s alright, it has good butter chicken, sag paneer, and the chef's special and navarattan curry are good, but it's still the same shit you can get at any other half-decent Indian joint. All the indian restaurants in Chicago pretty much taste the same. ******* management, read this: You aren't doing a great job...., hire a good chef, put something original on the menu, not the same s*** you can find in any indian restaurant. A great restaurant in Defense Colony, New Delhi, called Swagath, BLOWS AWAY ANY CHICAGO JOINT AND MAKES ******* TASTE LIKE MANURE.
*******, get a clue, find a way to introduce new and exciting flavors. learn from SWAGATH, go to India, if you have to, but learn about cuisine that makes what you serve taste like malfeasance.
Note that we also had to censor a swear, although we like Anand's use of "malfeasance" to conjure those other words he employed earlier in the review.

The second review is for a tremendously famous mole-gas restaurant in Lincoln Park. We want to again point out that we don't endorse the review, but it made us laugh, and we hope you have similar results:
My friend is a an obese, bi-polar, manic depressive with schizo-affective disorder and sleep apnoea. He actually fell asleep in the middle of our 12 course meal. Though he could barely manage to retain interested while he went through an untimely depressive episode during dinner, I eagerly anticipated each wine and food pairing. I wish I could say that he missed an amazing dining experience, but I can't. I'm glad I tried ******, but couldn't help thinking afterwards that this place was a bit overpriced and overrated.
The grammar, spelling, substance and sensitivity of this review need a lot of work, but what an intro! Thank you, Anand, for brightening everyone's day.

Oh Snap, It's Mother's Day

First, our birthday, then Cinco de Mayo, now Mother's Day. When will these damn holidays end! Before you know it, we'll be talking about Memorial Day barbecues and D-Day fondue parties. Well, as you know, you should have made your Mother's Day brunch reservations back in February, but you didn't, so let's discuss.

mom.jpg It's not as dire a situation as it might seem, since just about every restaurant does a Mother's Day brunch; just call up your faves and see what's available. We could do it for you, but your mother will know that you cheated. Frankly, we think that if you're geographically (and emotionally) close enough with your mother to take her out to brunch, then you're close enough to cook her brunch yourself. It does not have to be homemade crab cake eggs Benedict to show her you care; the champagne cocktails will be sufficient to that end.

You know what your mother might appreciate more than a meal? Ask if she wants to do a Mother's Day breast cancer race with you. Sunday is going to be in the mid 60s and sunny, and the walk/run is by the lake in Grant Park. It will be MEANINGFUL, and mothers love meaning.

Race to empower [Y-ME National Breast Cancer Association]

[Photo: The Modern Age]

Review Revue: Chicago Reader Eats Hoosier Mama Pies

hoosier.jpg

In lieu of a restaurant review, this week's Reader is all about Hoosier Mama Pie Company, a brilliantly named wholesale pie concern in Chicago. The article, by Nicholas Day, goes into great depth about the company (run by wife-and-husband team Paula Haney and Craig Siegelin) and its history, and speaks lovingly of the pies: "Painstakingly made -- the double-crust apple takes three hours -- a Hoosier Mama pie has the taste of something bygone, something you'd given up wanting."

Day goes on to mention that the pies are available at a few retail outlets in Chicago. A quick check of the Hoosier Mama website reveals four locations in the city: Dollop Coffee, Metropolis Coffee, Charmers Café, and Glenn's Diner. You know what happens when four different places sell the same exact pie? That's right, pricefest! We called up the contenders to find out which fillings they carry, and more importantly (not really), how much they charge for a slice. Turns out that each shop sells its slices for a different amount, with mark-ups ranging from 10% more than the wholesale price of a pie, divided into eight slices, to almost double that. Not quite a scandal, but still mildly interesting. Prepare yourself:

Dollop Coffee Co, in Uptown, usually has eight or nine different types of pie, including banana cream, lemon meringue, strawberry rhubarb and apple. Dollop is one of two retail locations where whole pies can be purchased for $18-$21, depending on the pie. Dollop sells its slices for $3.50 a pop, a 40% mark-up.

Metropolis Coffee, in Edgewater, sells slices for $3.75, or 50% up, and pies for price of eight slices. Today, they have strawberry rhubarb, chocolate pudding, lemon merengue, and apple.

Charmers Café, in Rogers Park, has apple, chocolate pudding and strawberry rhubarb (damn, everyone has strawberry rhubarb!) for $2.75 a slice. That's really cheap! What else can you get for only 10% above wholesale that doesn't come from Costco? A tremendous service to the community.

Glenn's Diner, in Roscoe Village, is more of a real restaurant, and charges commensurately more for its pies. Slices of pecan or apple run $4.95 (98% over), and flourless chocolate pie tips the scales at $5.95 a slice. But that $5.95 is a bargain considering the price of the Venezuelan chocolate cake, which is what Hoosier Mama calls it ("a rich flourless chocolate cake made with Venezuelan chocolate prized for its complex floral character. It's topped with a smooth Venezuelan chocolate ganache and sided with cacao nibs). An 8" cake goes for $30, while a 10" is $40 (a good deal, since it's half again as large). Even if Glenn's slice comes off the smaller cake, it's still only 59% more than wholesale.

What does all of this mean? Not a lot, because none of the prices are that much for a good slice of pie. The mark-ups are influenced by any number of factors (rent, affluence of the customers, greed of the proprietor, etc) which are difficult to divine. We think the biggest determinant of where you should get your slice is which establishment has your filling of choice, for which you will need to call ahead.

Hoosier Mama Pie Company [Official Site]
Pie the Hard Way [Reader]
Dollop Coffee [Official Site]
Metropolis Coffee [Official Site]
Charmers Café [Official Site]
Glenn's Diner [MenuPages]

[Photo: Hoosier Mama @ Fancy Food Show, courtesy of SuzanneK/flickr]

Zagat Reveals Top Fast Food In Nation; 2nd Place Chick-Fil-A To Exact Almighty Vengeance On Competitors

Yesterday, we mentioned that we enjoy keeping tabs on the fast food industry because it is the zeitgeist of American taste. Well, ask and ye shall receive: Zagat unleashed its horde of citizen-reviewers on the fast food world, and reported the results of the survey today. Divvying up fast food into two categories - all chains and mega-chains with over 5k outlets - Zagat's report contends that Panera is the top chain overall, and Wendy's is the top mega-chain.

We cannot confirm nor deny this assessment personally, but we can provide some more detail. Panera, which has five locations in Chicago, beat out Chick-fil-A (which has no locations in Chicago) and Chipotle, tied for second, and Sonic (also no Chicago locations) and Quizno's. On the mega-chain side, Wendy's topped Subway (2nd), Pizza Hut (3rd) and DQ and McD (tied for 4th) - all of which have Chicago branches, obviously.

chick-fil-a.jpg It is not surprising that none of the mega-chains cracked the top five overall; one loses quite a bit of quality to maintain that level of quantity. The category favorites, however, show a consumer preference for individual mega-chain products. The best three burgers are Wendy's, BK and McD, and the best three fries went to McD's, BK and Wendy's, respectively. McD's was named most child-friendly (playland!), but KFC lost best chicken to Chick-fil-A "by a beak," as the press release smirks.

Why are there no Chick-fil-As in Chicago? The long and short of it is, the company is run by a fundamentalist Christian named S. Truett Cathy, who lamintes his beliefs onto the chain by closing on Sundays (which is fine) and through promotional giveaways of Christian toys, books and CDs at the stores (which is a tad frightening). We prefer our propaganda to be purely commercial and ethically vacant, thank you very much. Anyway, it will be a cold day in Hell before Cathy allows one of his stores to open in relatively heathen Chicago. Don't let all those churches fool you: we're wicked folk. Don't worry, though - CfA found enough God-fearers in Kenosha, WI, to warrant a branch. It's located in a large mall, and you can gawk at ungainly Americans while you scarf down your (admittedly enjoyable) signature chicken sandwich.

Zagat Reveals Results of Fast Food Survey [PRNewswire]
Fast-Food Chains [Zagat]
Panera locations in Chicago [MenuPages]
S. Truett Cathy [Official Site]
Chick-Fil-A [Wikipedia]

[Photo: Chick-Fil-A Kid's Zone. The slogan refers to filling children with chicken and Christian values]

FYI: Scandals, Coverups, And General Absurdity

• No more Krispy Kreme at Il. Tollway oases; cronyism a factor [Tribune]
• Chicagoland feed supply co. fingered in melamine distribution [Tribune]
• China introduces "food testing van" for mobile inspections. Yes, a van [Daily News & Analysis]
• Why IKEA shouldn't be selling food, especially herring [SpiritIndia]
• Drew Barrymore, of all people, to be WFP ambassador against hunger [Mainichi Daily News]

May 10, 2007

Elsewhere in the Menuniverse: Anything You Can Do, We Can Do Better

...and how it's relevant to you, Chicagoan

MP:Philly is excited about a new restaurant that serves a full hot dog menu, serving up exotica like turkey and chicken dogs. Well, isn't that exotic. One look at Hot Doug's and the proprietors of Tavern 17 would kill themselves, no question.

MP:Boston knows that no one (reading the blog) is really going to going to pay $1000 for a bejeweled martini at Capital Grille, even if it's for charity. Did you feel for a second a bit miffed that you didn't even have the chance to not participate? Well, guess what! We have a Capital Grille, too, and you are just as unobliged to care as Bostonians.

MP:San Francisco heralds the return of the wild king salmon fishing season in the Bay. Come on, salmon? That's not fair. How are we supposed to compete with the Pacific Ocean? Actually, this is how. Third ocean rules! Woo!

Countdown: Best Non-Review Food Articles In Tribune & TOC

Surely you didn't think that the three little reviews from today's Tribune and Time Out would comprise the entirety of our coverage of this week's food sections from those publications. We enjoyed ranking the features of yesterday's Sun-Times so much that we're going to do it again today, but this time, only the top five, and the two sections will compete against each other for the honor of placement in the post. Ready? We shall count down to number one:

5) Chain Reaction, Tribune: This is the weekly feature where an unlikely Trib reporter braves the horror of fast food dining to discover and evaluate the newest creations that places like BK, Sbux, and Pizza Hut have unleashed on humanity. This week, the Southwest Salad at McD gets high marks for use of decent ingredients, while the 7-layer Crunch Wrap at Taco Bell is dismissed as being adequate but exactly the same as every other item on their menu. We think this column is useful to both people who actually eat fast food (and there are many), and people who are too elitist to eat fast food but want to experience it vicariously (yours truly). It is a good lagging indicator of American taste.

4) Outside Job, TOC: This article is a list of the TOC staff's favorite outdoor dining spots. Dining al fresco is lovely when it's not a sidewalk cafe (too much exposure to cars and passers-by). Fortunately, Chicago is full of backyards, waterfronts, and other exotic forms of rooflessness. This list is good, especially because it contains photos of some of the outdoor dining spots, but also note that you can filter restaurant search results on MenuPages by feature, including outdoor dining.

3) Devil may care, TOC: This interview with renowned chef and cad-about-town Marco Pierre White, who is the youngest chef to win three Michelin stars, and the only one ever to give them back when he left the restaurant in question (talk about quitting while you're ahead!) We like this interview because it's unusual to see badmouthing of the Chicago dining scene in the press (click through to see who's food was described as "dreadful," and which man is "so rude"), although we didn't have the attention span to follow it the whole way through. Note that MPW will be presiding over a three-course luncheon ($65) at Seasons tomorrow, and it's not sold out yet! Get on that, if you can.

2) What's cooking in underground dining, Tribune: A nice primer on non-restaurant dining in Chicago, ranging from Ghetto Gourmet-style get togethers to special meals put on by speciality food stores. Food tastes better when the masses don't get to eat it. We don't like the lack of menus associated with this activity.

1) The overlooked, misunderstood, extraordinary RIB TIP, Tribune: Congratulations, Kevin Pang - you are our winner today. A focused and thorough piece on an important, delicious, overlooked food is always appreciated, and is possibly the most likely article of the lot to improve the lives of its readers. Kudos.

Meta-Imbibing: Anna Pakula Photographs @ Drake Bros.'

pakula.jpg

There is something hypnotic about doing the thing that you're seeing, whether it's running on the treadmill while watching a marathon, or having sex while watching pornography. One becomes highly self-conscious of the act of the action, and this contextualization can be quite rewarding. Or terrifying. At any rate, tonight, you can avail yourself of the opportunity to engage in some meta-wine drinking: A Room with a View Gallery will be exhibiting] work from a collection entitled "Harvest Sensations: Winemaking from Around the World - The Wine Photojournalism of Anna Pakula Creations" at the Drake Hotel, in the Drake Bros.' restaurant. Pakula's commercial, journalistic and artistic work aims to capture the tremendously photogenic craft of winemaking; consider the vividness and dynamicism of the above shot, for example.

How much richer would your viewing experience be if you were sipping from a glass of Montelpuciano right now (bracketing the probability that every experience could be so enriched)? Well, if you're on the Gold Coast this evening (or any time in the next month), stop in for some wine and light hors d'oeuvres, and try to imagine the life cycle of what's in your glass while you look at photos depicting each phase. We think you'll find that it's just a bit more special than usual.

Opening Reception Exhibit- Harvest Sensations- Art of Winemaking, by Anna Pakula Creations [Local Wine Events]
Anna Pakula Creations [Official Site]
Drake Bros.' [MenuPages]
Drake Bros.' [Official Site]

[Anna Pakula Wine Gallery]

Review Revue: Trib @ Riccardo, TOC @ The Gage & Republic

Today, the two T's target a trattoria, a trendy Asian spot and a gastropub. Let us waste no more time in getting to the reviews:

At Riccardo Trattoria in Lincoln Park, Phil Vettel is as tickled by the sensation of tripe - cooked as well as it can be to the consistency of overdone pasta - oozing down his throat as he is by the motivation and dedication of the restaurant's chef-owner, Riccardo Michi. Michi, who opened the trattoria in his mid-50s, has around the same number of chairs in the restaurant and items on the menu. To accommodate such a configuration requires competent, knowledgeable service, which Vettel finds quite extant. Vettel is charmed by the "cute and unpretentious" dining room, where, in addition to the signature tripe, one can find the standard complement of rustic and classic Italian dishes like gnocchi brava with speck prosciutto, fontina cheese in a pink tomato sauce ($15) and roasted rabbit au jus with olives & soft polenta ($19). With such a wide assortment of dishes at reasonable prices (most dishes are under $20 and nothing exceeds $24), Riccardo is a welcome addition to the frequently inauthentic Lincoln Park Italian scene.

(p.s. Monica Eng went to the semi-hip Asian Bistro in Arlington Heights and enjoyed its spicy Szechuan offerings, but didn't care for the Thai and Vietnamese add-ons. Note to restaurateurs: stick with what you know!)

the gage.jpg Heather Shouse, on behalf of Chicagoans who spend time downtown, is grateful for the arrival of The Gage, an Irish gastropub that recently opened in the Loop. The old/new interior is both sophisticated and welcoming, creating a perfect spot to drink pretty much anything the liver desires (The Gage dabbles expertly in martinis, whiskies, beers and wines, a quadrafecta that is quite difficult to pull off), and to eat well-prepared, haute-hearty-meaty dishes like locally crafted sausages with crisp brie potato ($18) and roast saddle of elk with mashed potato, juniper berry and rosemary ($33; hell yeah). If you're not in the mood for a giant entree, consider such drinking accompaniments as fried chicken livers with spicy mustard ($6), or a pint of shrimp with yuzu-chili aioli ($13; y.c.a. sounds brilliant to us). Owner Billy Lawless wanted to create a watering hole with real gravitas anda high enjoyability factor, and so far, it seems as though he's succeeded.

We intro'd Republic back in mid-April, at which time Chris LaMorte warned that the pan-Asian lounge had better get its act together re: flavor, which ranged from uneven to non-existent. Well, it seems like the Zhang family, who also run Rise and Shine, listened up. This go-around, David Tamarkin found that while not all the dishes were fantastic, they've at least gotten the spiciness right, noting that a lemongrass shrimp dish "packed plenty of bite," and the orange-ginger crème brûlée "kicked in with a tickle to the back of the of the throat, keeping taste buds awake." This newly acceptable food, along with the "sexy" decor (somehow maintained despite its location in a Sheraton) should permit Republic a chance to show Chicago a good time.

Riccardo is one truly great trattoria [Tribune]
Riccardo Trattoria [MenuPages]
Szechuan spices Asian Bistro fare [Tribune]
New review - The Gage [TOC]
The Gage [MenuPages]
The Gage [Official Site]
New review - Republic [TOC]
Republic [MenuPages]
Republic [Official Site]

[Photo: The Gage]

FYI: The Latest On Our Pet Stories

• New "food czar" not optimistic about current state of affairs [Tribune]
• Canadian inspection not so hot either; melamine found on fish farms [Globe and Mail]
• Spire gets zoning okay; now, where to find that $2b for construction? [Tribune]
• Brown's murder case goes to jury, comes down to DNA on a chicken bone [Tribune]
• Cocoa, unfazed by threat to its necessity in chocolate, hits 3-week high [NYTimes]

May 09, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Tête de Moine Rosettes @ Zest

zest cheese.jpg

When you first glanced at the image, maybe you thought, flowers? Butter? White chocolate? Nope, it's cheese. Specifically, Tête de Moine from Switzerland. According to its AOC/promotional site, TdM is a "semi-hard cheese with a silky body which easily melts in your mouth." What probably makes it melt so easily is that crazy rosette configuration it's sliced into, which exposes the innards of the cheese to air and deepens the flavors and magically transports you to the Alps. Actually, it gets better: this method (and the cheese) was invented by the monks of the Bellaly abbey, making it as authentic and old-school as any European foodstuff can certifiably attain. Monks are unimpeachable keepers and promulgators of tradition and quality, and they must believe in this stuff if they called it "monk head," which is the unpoetic (and unappetizing) translation Tête de Moine. Try it yourself at Zest, where it's occasionally served on the Chef's Hand-Selected Cheese Plate ($12). Call ahead to make sure you show up on the right day, because the monks would never forgive you.

Zest [MenuPages]
Zest [Official Site]

[Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr, one of our favorite photographers. Good job, Z!]

Veganism And Infanticide In Georgia

Earlier, we reported on a vegan/veg buffet at Lake Side Cafe, not realizing that the world's biggest vegan story was playing out in a Georgia courtroom today. It is a particularly sad tale: everyone involved loses big time, and it's unclear whether justice has been truly served.

The story began around three years ago, when 6-week-old Crown Shakur starved to death following a diet of soy milk and apple juice. Which is to say, his parents, Jade Sanders, 27, and Lamont Thomas, 31, were evidently not feeding their child enough calories to survive. They were convicted of malice murder, felony murder, involuntary manslaughter and cruelty to children last week after 7 hours of jury deliberation, and sentenced today to life in prison (the sentence was automatic, and the appeal will likely take years to be adjudicated).

This case seems to be less about the ethics of fringe diets for children than of pure stupidity on the part of the parents. Whatever you feed your newborn, he or she should be under professional medical care (Crown was born at home) to monitor weight, vital signs, and all that important stuff. It is certainly possible to raise a vegan baby, as long as the parents keep in mind this warning from the Vegetarian Resource Group: "It is important to note that soymilk, rice milk, and homemade formulas should not be used to replace breast milk or commercial infant formula during the first year. These foods do not contain the right amounts of nutrients for babies." When breast milk is not an option, there are plenty of supplements on the market to create the right diet for a newborn. (Also, it seems to us that breast milk is an ethically acceptable animal product; it would be difficult to more fully guarantee consensuality on the part of the donor.)

The (legal) point, though, is that starving your child is not okay, whether it was intentional or not. Based on the facts of this case, it does not seem to us like these people killed their baby on purpose, but they certainly did not fulfill their legal responsibilities as parents. The triple punishment - prison time, the facticity of infanticide, and the knowledge of how the latter caused the former - is severe (the prison time may get reduced in years to come), but it might serve as a reminder to all current and potential parents of newborns that children are not indestructible, and sometimes, the needs of one's baby come before the needs of the planet.

Vegans Sentenced for Starving Their Baby [NYTimes]
Vegan Nutrition in Pregnancy and Childhood [Vegetarian Resource Group]

Review Revue: Sun-Times @ Sola, Plus Chocolate & Cop On Top

This week's S-T doesn't do much reviewing, per se, but, as usual, it covers a tremendous amount of ground, which we will digest for you, and spit out in order of importance by our arcane calculations:

1) At sola, it is now possible to obtain malasadas, which approximately translates to Portuguese doughnuts. A favorite in Hawaii since the days of sailing (well, since the late 1800s), an order of four of these fried treats is available for $7, and they come with raspberry puree and mango curd for dipping, and they are apparently quite tasty. Why #1? The post is called Review Revue, and this is the closest the S-T comes to one today.

2) We believe we addressed this issue once in passing, and it will probably get a fuller treatment than the one its about to receive, but here's a pretty good report on the effort to expand the FDA definition of chocolate to include products made with vegetable oil instead of cocoa butter. The current definition requires that products labeled "chocolate" contain both chocolate liquor (what you get when you grind up the meaty part of the cacao bean) and cocoa butter (the fatty component of the bean); while the new definition would continue to require the presence of chocolate liquor, it would allow the use of much cheaper vegetable oil to give chocolate its signature texture and mouth feel (cocoa butter is over three times as expensive). The issue here is not which chocolate would taste better - meaning it's not an existential question - but the integrity of chocolate as a brand name. Pumping the market full of veggieChocolate without labeling it as such would hurt legitimate chocolate makers. We think this probably won't fly, because America is irrationally in love with chocolate and would never do anything to hurt it. Why #2? See previous sentence.

Cop-on-Top.jpg 3) This is too funny: on May 18, if you see a Dunkin' Donuts store with a police officer standing on the roof, and donate money to the Special Olympics Torch Run fund, then DD will give you a free donut. The promotion is called Cop on Top (itself problematic), and strikes us as an extremely bizarre and Byzantine of raising money for what sounds like a good cause. We get that cops eat donuts, but nothing else about this scheme makes sense. Are the cops on duty? Why on the roof? That's scary, like there's some kind of stakeout. Let's just hope no one gets shot unnecessarily. Why #3? Your life would be a tad blander if you did not know this piece of information

4) After some unfortunate alcohol-related deaths in Major League Baseball, the Cubs have decided to ban alcohol in their clubhouse and on chartered flights back to Chicago after away games so that players do not get drunk and crash their cars and kill themselves and others. This seems, to us, to be a little extreme - while there shouldn't need to be alcohol available to players at all times, this isn't a particularly glowing display of trust on the part of the management toward the team. How about a lecture on not drinking and driving? And aren't these people wealthy enough to take taxis? Come on. Why #4? Because personal responsibility is important for our city's millionaires to possess and exercise. Next thing you know, they'll be banning steroids and amphetamines, too.

5) Well, here's a controversy: are professional chefs influenced by their mothers? This feel-good piece looks out how the mothers and grandmothers of chefs in restaurants like Kamehachi, Adobo Grill, and Blackbird inspired and informed their cooking careers. Why #5? It's sort of a duh article, but it reminds us that we love our mothers.

6) Remember how we mentioned the FMI show yesterday, and how articles would be coming out describing the trends and products revealed during the event? Well, here you go! The big trend is less: less fat and sugar, fewer calories, smaller portions. What's so smart about small-portioned thing is that it goes after the segment of the population for whom dollars are less important than calories. After decades of upping portion sizes to increase total sales, companies are now decreasing portion sizes to increase profit margins. And, ostensibly, to prod consumers into eating less. In terms of new products, think Pillsbury reduced sugar frosting, Reese's reduced fat peanut butter bars, and Sunsweet individually wrapped prunes (hopefully not dried plums. Why #6? We sincerely hope that individually wrapped prunes solve America's obesity crisis.

7) Last week's S-T food section included a piece on Food Network chefs and their respective likeability. Well, we groused about the omission of Alton Brown, and sure enough, a reader addresses the same negligence, remarking that he "could watch his shows over and over." Why is that? Because Brown's shows are subversively well constructed, and troublingly funny. Cooking shows are not supposed to be this intelligent! Why #7? It's only reader comments, but we were vindicated.

[Photo: Maine-Niles Association of Special Recreation]

To Eat Tonight: Vegan Buffet @ Lake Side Cafe (Rhymes!)

spring_buff_flower.jpg It is unequivocally spring time in Chicago, with a forecasted high today in the lower 70s. Now, how should we celebrate the renewal and rebirth of verdant vegetation immanent to the season? By eating a ton of it, in buffet form! This evening, Lake Side Cafe is presenting a program of world music, dancing, and the aforementioned buffet of vegetarian and vegan selections. While we're sure that world music and dancing are enjoyable to some - possibly even a disproportionate number of vegans - what interests us in this event is AYCE vegan food. Starting at 6pm ($17 advance, $19 at door), you can stuff yourself silly with what is normally fairly expensive food. After all, vegan cuisine relies on high quality ingredients which don't come cheap. While "all you can eat" does seem to run counter to some of the basic conceptualizations of veganism (moderation, conservation), "all you care to eat" represents a somewhat more thoughtful approach, one we endorse for the purposes of this buffet. This will allow more dancing come 8pm, because surely you would not want to be weighed down by too much quince and quinoa. Incidentally, children are encouraged: under 11 for $10, and under 3 for free!

Lake Side Cafe [MenuPages]
Lake Side Cafe [Official Site]

[Photo: Lake Side Cafe Events]

FYI: Sharp Metal Objects Where They're Not Wanted

• Double your pleasure: a new chemical emerges in the pet food scandal [NYTimes]
• Local, sustainable biofuel? Now that's using your coconut [BBCNews]
• The Juice juiced from Louisville steakhouse on account of...well, you know [Tribune]
• Cracker Barrel burger contains metal shards; new mineral supplement? [Tribune]
• McD's same-store sales up almost 5%, now sells more chicken than KFC [Tribune]

May 08, 2007

FMI Comes To Town For The Last Time

fmi.jpg The Food Marketing Institute Show, which wraps up today at the McCormick Center, is the biggest food event to hit Chicago since the International Association of Culinary Professionals conference in mid-April. It's actually quite a big deal: the FMI has 1,500 food retailers and wholesalers on its roster that operate 26,000 retails food stores, which are responsible for 75% of all retail food sales in the United States. It's a huge organization, and its programs cover everything from food safety and security (protecting the food supply is no joke) to professional education and enrichment to lobbying to putting on this show, which brings together over 30,000 people in the industry to network with each other and paw over the latest products and technologies in food retailing. As if that weren't enough, the FMI show is co-located with the United Fresh Marketplace, All Things Organic, and Fancy Food shows. Can you imagine all these things, under one roof? We can barely wrap our mind around it.

Who was there? Well, every food retailer you can think of, but also entities as diverse as Google and Algeria. Anyone with an interest in food, selling, and selling food had an interest in being at the FMI show. We certainly had an interest in being there, but like many of our best laid plans...fortunately for the media-starved, Mike Sula managed to score a ticket and got the goods on the goods, like rare Morrocan olive oil and "organic" flavor enhancers that miss the point of organic. And last week, we noted some of the product highlights from the show, like corn-based biodegradable packaging (about time!). We're sure more news about new products will come out of the show as people begin to absorb what they've seen, but in the meantime, two FMI press releases from the show caught our eye, and we wanted to share the findings with you (since no one else will):

1) FMI Consumer Trends 2007: Confidence in Food Safety Down, Energy Costs Changing How People Shop - Not that it should come as much of a surprise, but consumer sentiment toward food safety in supermarkets and at restaurants is at an 18 year low (evidently, something worse than the spinach/pet food dual crisis happened in 1989). With decreased trust and expendable income due to gas price increases, commodity inflation and wage stagnation, consumers (obviously not the rich ones) are eating out less (69%), using leftovers more (62%), buying generic (56%), canned, frozen and boxed (30%) in order to save food and money this year. Of course, that means a lot of people are buying more fresh and organic foods, but not everyone can afford to do so all the time. • This may be borne out somewhat in a new shopping strategy which Americans seem to have adapted that represents something of a return to the pre-big-box era of shopping: consumers are visiting two stores to stock up on food, usually a supercenter for their staples, and higher-end conventional stores for fresh meat, dairy and produce. Either type of store can technically fulfill one's shopping needs, but people are increasingly customizing their food purchases to maximize quality where it counts per dollar. • Also, consumers are wary of cloned meat and animal products; 84% believe that cloned food ought to be labeled as such, an issue that has already been taken up by the California state Senate, despite the lack of FDA approval on the products.

fmi2.jpg 2) FMI’s State of Food Retailing 2007: Sales Surge for National Chains, Many Other Retailers Challenged - Meanwhile, the food retailing industry itself is doing fine, even as consumer sentiment suffers. Annual sales increased 5.3% in 2006; the majority of which, it seems, came from national chains. In fact, nearly half of all food retailing locations experienced a decrease in sales last year, which is meaningful given overall industry growth. It seems like Mom and Pop are having more and more trouble turning a profit off selling food, continuing a trend that's been in place since...oh, maybe the middle of the last century. For the sake of diversity, we hope that the two-store strategy that consumers are employing will encourage smaller, non-chain stores to find a niche (organics, prepared food, customer service) where competition with the supercenters is possible.

Finally, we note with some sadness that the show will be moving to Las Vegas next year. What, Chicago isn't good enough for you anymore? Ridiculous.

[Photos: FMI Show Press Room]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Agami, Green Zebra & Bin 36

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are three of the best from the past week:

This review for Agami came on in May 3rd from "Next door", and is full of backhanded compliments:
I liked walking into this place. It was beautiful and quite sassy, but how do you sit at a sushi bar and order from a waitress when the chefs that prepare your food are right in front of you? Hence the term, sushi bar...? I think someone screwed up royally there. Pretty and fun inside, but service is bizarre. They're all over the place, or no place at all. Food was delicious, especially if you're not the true sushi lover. The menu is extensive with an incredible assortment of rolls, You'll find something you like even if you're not a fish fan. The cocktail lounge and bar is so enticing. I'd recommend settling and eating where the server can't go far. :-)
Sassy sushi, substandard service...sorry for that alliterative interlude, but we rather like the use of "sassy" to describe, well, almost anything. Most intriguing part of this review: that the deliciousness of this food is calibrated specifically for the tastes of a sushi non-lover. Maybe gobs of spicy mayo?

* * *

green zebra.jpg On May 4th, "Anonymous" had the following to say about Green Zebra:
Just enough food, and a bit too much attitude. Food was very good. Very intricate selection of flavors. They come in small portions which is great, just when you are ready for another bite, your plate is empty and all you want is just one more taste. Just before you can figure out what happened, they carefully place another artfully arranged plate of deliciousness in front of you. The emotional roller coaster goes on for about 3 more plates. Until finally when it's over, you are surprisingly full and very satisfied. A few from the female staff seemed quite pretentious for some reason, maybe it was just me. 2 from my table noticed the other 2 didn't. It's definitely worth a second shot, I would hate to not be able to eat here b/c I feel unwelcome. In my opinion this place is a very good value at $55 for the chefs tasting menu. I couldn't duplicate that meal in my house for my wife and I at that price and that's where I see the value.
An "emotional roller coaster," indeed. There is definitely a trauma to small plates; one cannot seriously commune with any one dish, because by the time the tastebuds decipher the nature of a particular morsel, it's gone. Our reptilian brains feel slighted, and scared that no more food is to come. We enter into starvation panic mode, just as another small plate appears and the cycle is repeated. But the real psychological trauma begins when the bill arrives...

* * *

Finally, consider this May 6th review for Bin 36, from "pretty good":
ok ok i like this place but there are a few things that i wish would change. 1. the atmosphere is unfriendly at first. there will be people dressed up in their designer whatever that will stare at you on your way to your table... you have to get to your table and try not to look around to get comfortable. 2. you'll spend $40 on a portion of food that wouldn't feed a bird but the presentation is cute. 3. the furniture and seating arrangements are too close, the area is too open and cold feeling, and the aluminum chairs are very uncomfortable... unless you're fortunate enough to get a booth you'll be sitting on cold aluminum out in the open for everyone to look at you and seemingly judge. all in all the food, wine, cheese and wait staff are worth the trouble but it really depends on your mood that day. it's not the kind of place that you would want to go to unless you really feel like dealing with the "in" crowd which for me, is usually never.
Food, service - plus. Portions, people - minus. Personally, we enjoy being dissected by our social betters while on the emotional rollercoaster of small plate dining. Next time you go, give a sympathetic smile to wine director Brian Duncan, who just lost the James Beard award for Oustanding Wine Service (and order wine, obviously)

[Photo: An actual green zebra, by burnt sugar/flickr]

James Beard Awards, Round 2: Restaurants & Chefs

After yesterday's crushing defeat in the media category, Chicago has emerged semi-triumphant, picking up what are, arguably, the two most important awards of the evening (plus a throwaway that Chicago couldn't lose): Outstanding Restaurant and Outstanding Service. Given that Chicago's performance on Sunday was 0-3, we are more than satisfied with 3-5. To the results, starting with our winners:

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT AWARD
Frontera Grill
Chef/Owner: Rick and Deann Bayless
Chicago, IL
Our verdict: Ha! And it couldn't have happened to a nicer guy. Condolences to the people at Spiaggia, who were also nominated for this category

OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARD
Rick Tramonto, Gale Gand, and Richard Melman
TRU
Chicago, IL
Our verdict: The service ought to be good for the money, so it's nice to know that it's not just good, but the best. The competition in this category seemed fairly weak, though

BEST CHEF: GREAT LAKES
Grant Achatz
Alinea
Chicago, IL
Our verdict: This is sort of duh, and almost an insult. Maybe the Beard people are too conservative to give the big award to a mole-gas establishment. Local losers in this category include Naha and North Pond, which are lovely establishments but really don't belong in the same category as Alinea

OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR AWARD
Thomas Keller
The French Laundry
Yountville, CA
Chicagoland nominee: Richard Melman, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises
Our verdict: Keller may run one of the best restaurants in the world to near-infinite praise, but Melman will eat you alive

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD
Michel Richard
Michel Richard Citronelle
Washington, DC
Chicagoland nominees: Jean Joho of Everest and Paul Kahan of Blackbird
Our verdict: Yeah, whatever; we're sure that this Michel is a good cook, but Chicago got two nominees. Bite us

RISING STAR CHEF OF THE YEAR
David Chang
Momofuku Noodle Bar
New York, NY
Chicagoland nominee: Graham Bowles, Avenues
Our verdict: There is little doubt in our mind that Bowles is a better chef than Chang. Two little noodles shops, however enjoyable, are no Avenues. But Chang's a media darling, and this is a media event, so...

OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF AWARD
Michael Laskonis
Le Bernardin
New York, NY
Chicagoland nominee: Mindy Segal, Hot Chocolate
Our verdict: Le Bernardin is one of the top French restaurants in the country, and its sweet is as good as its savory. We're sorry for Ms. Segal, but it was an honor to be nominated

OUTSTANDING WINE SERVICE AWARD
Mark Slater
Michel Richard Citronelle
Washington, DC
Chicagoland nominees: Brian Duncan, Bin 36
Our verdict: Okay, but the guy who's serving the wine scares us a bit. Also, if Alpana Singh were still actively sommelier-ing, there would be no contest

Next year, we'll sweep, for sure.

FYI: Asinine Justifications For Fun & Profit

• Power plant: killing fish is good for environment! [Tribune]
• Ew, Sbux used transfats? About time they dumped 'em [Business Week]
• Wheat gluten; is it really that bad for you? [NYTimes]
• Kraft to launch its new food products in virtual supermarket [Tribune]
• Il. spurs national ban on 'Cocaine' energy drink [Tribune]

May 07, 2007

Light Reading: Spring Back with T:Style

Every once in a while (seemingly all the time, actually), the NYTimes comes out with a little themed supplement, about the size of their Sunday magazine, in which everything the reader needs to know about women's fashion, sports, real estate, food, etc., for the season is presented in a package that's poorly laid out and holier-than-thou. Even on the website, it's difficult to get a sense of what's going on in the issue.

Ah, but we mentioned food. This past weekend's T:Style Magazine, subtitled "all the fixings," sub-subtitled Living Spring 2007 (a sub-subtitle in dire need of punctuation), attempts to locate the current culinary climate, and finds it largely in two places: the post-commercial reemergence of pre-commercial farming and folkways of south-central Europe, and upgrades to classic Americana hardware. Enough of this baroque labeling, though. The articles:

When we said "south-central Europe," did you think we meant Italy? Not your prissy Italy, with the high fashion and beautiful art and canals, no - instead, the Italy of anchovy fishing villages and charming bottles of amari bitters. Molto autentico, no? What they were doing in Italy in the 50s is what you should be doing now, especially as the salted fish and liqueurs become more readily available in the United States (what is amari? A grammatically incorrect question; amari is the plural of amaro. They're neutral spirits infused with spices and essences until you get something resembling Jaegermeister, but more Italian-sounding, like Campari). Also note that the current American obsession with pig (which is to say, urban American obsession with fatty and cured pork products) can be well-satisfied with salumi, albeit from Berkeley and not Italy.

South-central Europe also covers areas like Burgenland, a strip of eastern Austria that's chock-a-block with vineyards and haute-country cuisine served in beautiful farmhouses with views of the Alps - think topfenknodel (sugared cream cheese dumpling), prosciutto with olive oil and lemon juice, and apple strudel.

Meanwhile, returning to America, think back 25 years and what will you find? For starters, the birth of the Silver Palate cookbook, a manual that informed Americans that it's okay to use ingredients they've never heard of before (apology: this was in the Sunday magazine and not T:Style, but whatever). And how better to prepare the food in the cookbook than with the authors' most valuable tool, the Cuisineart, a food processor whose funeral does not begin upon purchase. Parents might pass these along to their children, at least when they're off to college, giving the dual gift of quality and convenience (possibly the American credo).

Lest you think the Cuisineart was the last great innovation in American cooking machines, prepare yourself for a new generation of grills - you can now spend $28k on your backyard barbecuer and use 18k BTUs to ramp it up to .9k degrees (that's 900; we couldn't help ourselves). Because more ALWAYS means better...maybe these new models also prepare the spice rub and digitally monitor the internal temperature of the meat for guaranteed correct done-ness. Hey, that's a pretty good idea!

While you may have been able to prepare yourself for the grills, nothing could ready you for the hipsterization of the ice cream truck. No comment we can make would do justice to the photo accompanying this article, and we'd be sued if we tried to run it ourselves, so just click through and come back. We'll wait.

Finally, as a sort of an anchor piece for the theme of the return to (someone's) tradition, T:Style offers up a primer on terroir, or the ways in which "place" is transmuted into the taste and feel of food and beverages, especially wine. Your Bourdeaux brings with it a sampling of the mineral contents of the soil of that region of France. Can you taste it? Maybe...about as much as homeopathy actually does anything medically measurable. Which is to say, the psychology of it is as important as the science, because people love to know that their food was made somewhere, by someone. Like everything used to be.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Shout-out to Weegee's Lounge in Logan Square, serving up classic cocktails with jazz on the jukebox to conjure up the neighborhood in the 1940s (something only possible then and now, and not in between).

Opening: Dib

Why do so many Thai restaurants insist on having an accompanying sushi bar? It turns us off for the following reasons:

1) The cuisines have nothing to do with each other. Hear that? Nothing. Spicy green curry and amberjack sashimi are not friends. One is about messy, fragrant, oily excess, and the other is about the purity of the protein. You could make an argument that curried fish is perfectly tasty, but that's not what's served at Thai/sushi places

2) If two disparate cuisines share one restaurant, neither one can be great. Sourcing and slicing raw fish is a full-time pursuit, and so is making satay. Anyone trying to do both is clearly not an expert in either

3) It's totally trendoid. Crazy combinations can work, as long as they are at least somewhat unusual. Take Rajun Cajun, for example, which deftly mixes Indian and southern food, sometimes simply altering the spice mix to go from one to the other. Spicy fried chicken with curried greens, corn bread and a samosa? Damn straight, and you don't find that on every corner, either. But Thai/sushi is clichéd to the point of disgust, at least for us. Why not Vietnamese and ceviche? Now there's a concept

But at the same time, we wish every new (nonchain) restaurant well, and so we present Dib to you, in the hopes that our worst fears are not realized in it. Nestled in a little shopping plaza (strip mall chic!) on Lawrence, Dib has all the standard Thai dishes, plus all the standard maki and nigiri (if you're keeping track, their Chicago roll contains tuna, salmon, yellowtail, cucumber, lettuce, avocado, and masago, $8. Let's hope it's at least good lettuce).

Points in Dib's favor? It's BYO and it delivers, doubling the delivery sushi options in the area (the other is Tokyo Marina). Okay, and if you go, you can say, "dibs on that tempura!" and people will be annoyed that you made a pun.

Blog Reviews: Week Of No Smoking

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• In case you've forgotten, Alhambra Palace still exists; opening was a tad tepid, but we await full-blown Alhambra with breathless anticipation [TOC Blog]

no-smoking-sign.jpg • The food at Kiki D's is cold, crappy, and may even bite you back. For the steeliest, most self-hating stomachs only, please [Chicagoist]

• The lardons salad, intimate atmosphere and copious wine at Le Bouchon remind the eater why French dining is so lovely [Sweet Tooth]

• Authenticity abounds at McNamara's, where a dark beer and shepherd's pie topped with mash will warm up even the coldest soul [Chicagoist]

• As the only frozen custard purveyor in Chicago, Scooter's doesn't even have to bother, but it brings it anyway with an ever-changing roster of flavors and its oh-so-smoooooth-iness [Chicagoist]

• The new menu at Scylla is a hit, although portions might be shrinking, but one sip of the Shiraz and all doubt will vanish [Food Chain]

• A bit uneven out of the stocks, Sura shows enough potential with the good dishes that it may well start to tick when the liquor license hits [Chicagoist]

James Beard Awards, Round 1: Media

And, we lost. Well, that's a bit harsh, since the vast bulk of the awards won't be handed out until tonight, but Chicagoland media did not get the nod in the three categories in which it had nominees. Without further ado, the categories which we failed to win:

Newspaper (Food) Section
Chicagoland nominee: Chicago Tribune
The winner: San Francisco Chronicle
Our Verdict: But have they seen The Stew?

Television Food Segment, National or Local
Chicagoland nominee: CBS 2 Chicago, Host Vince Gerasole
The winner: CBS News “Sunday Morning,” Host Charles Osgood
Our Verdict: This category is unfair. How is local supposed to compete with national?

Webcast
Chicagoland nominee: Spatulatta.com, Hosts Olivia Gerasole & Isabella Gerasole
The winner: Savoring the Best of World Flavors, Volume One: India, Spain, Mexico and Thailand, Host Bill Briwa
Our Verdict: We don't really have an opinion on this one. New Year's resolution: watch more webcasts

For the sake of completeness, the full list of media award winners, after the jump... 2007 James Beard Foundation Journalism Award winners are:
M. F. K. Distinguished Writing Award: Jesse Katz, Los Angeles
Newspaper (Food) Section: San Francisco Chronicle
Website Focusing on Food, Beverage, Restaurant, or Nutrition: Leite’s Culinaria
Multimedia Writing on Food, Beverage, Restaurants, or Nutrition: Edward Deitch, MSNBC.com/NBC Mobile
Newspaper Feature Writing About Restaurants and/or Chefs With or Without Recipes: Barbara Yost, The Arizona Republic
Newspaper Feature Writing With Recipes: Janet Fletcher, San Francisco Chronicle
Newspaper Feature Writing Without Recipes: Elaine Cicora, Cleveland Scene
Newspaper or Magazine Restaurant Review or Critique: Rebekah Denn, Seattle Post-Intelligencer
Newspaper, Newsletter, or Magazine Reporting on Nutrition or Food-Related Consumer Issues: Colleen Pierce, R.D., Child
Newspaper, Newsletter, or Magazine Columns: Dara Moskowitz, City Pages (Minneapolis)
Newspaper Writing on Spirits, Wine, or Beer: Eric Felten, The Wall Street Journal AND Dara Moskowitz, City Pages (Minneapolis)
Magazine Feature Writing About Restaurants and/or Chefs With or Without Recipes: James Villas, Saveur
Magazine Feature Writing With Recipes: Colman Andrews, Saveur
Magazine Feature Writing Without Recipes: Scott Simon, Gourmet
Magazine Writing on Spirits, Wine, or Beer: Fiona Morrison, MW, Wine & Spirits Magazine

2007 James Beard Foundation Broadcast Media Award winners, presented by Viking Range, are:
Television Food Segment, National or Local: CBS News “Sunday Morning,” Host Charles Osgood
Television Food Special: "Food Trip with Todd English," Host Todd English
Television Food Show, Local: "Check, Please!" Bay Area, Host Leslie Sbrocco
Television Food Show, National: "Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie," Host Ruth Reichl
Radio Food Show: The Leonard Lopate Show’s "Holiday Recipe Swap," Host Leonard Lopate
Webcast: Savoring the Best of World Flavors, Volume One: India, Spain, Mexico and Thailand, Host Bill Briwa

FYI: Chicago Makes Good Coffee, Poor Health Choices

• (Sort of) local boy makes good...coffee [Tribune]
• Chicagoans just asking for skin cancer [Sun-Times]
• If the gov't can be believed, humans at no risk from melamine [USDA]
• 100% organic farming could meet global nutritional needs [AP/Cattle Network]
• AP correspondent reporting on the criminal trade in endangered species for food died in Cameroon crash [AP/NYTimes]

May 04, 2007

Three Considerations For Friday Afternoon

1) As you all know, it is, by definition, Cinco de Mayo tomorrow. Rather than suffering through the tedium and recapitulation immanent to creating our own list, we will provide you with a list of other peoples' lists: Metromix, Sun-Times, Zagat, Chowhound (suburbs!)

2) The Food Marketing Institute Show commences this Sunday at the McCormick Center. If we are to believe the hype, it's "everything in food marketing, plus the latest in technology, bursting with innovative ideas, all under one roof." We will cover the show in depth next week, but today's Sun-Times previewed some of the flashier new inventions and trends that we should expect to see in '08, including corn-based biodegradable packaging (corn can do everything), and fortified beverages (think protein in your water and vitamins in your soda. Sigh)

3) It's our birthday today, and we were thinking, how can we monetize that? Being lazy, we settled on the first viable option we found: the Chicago Diner in Wrigleyville is offering a free vegan dessert or shake on any day in the two week period surrounding your birthday. What's great about vegan desserts is they are at least as savory as they are sweet - so much umami!

That's all for this week - see you next time on the New Adventures Of MP:C

Review Revue: Reader Rounds Up The Hispanophonic Caribbean

jibarito.jpg

Normally, we give physical media reviews quite a bit of coverage, and write full summaries for each restaurant review. That bit us in the ass yesterday, because it took forever to digest the seven restaurants that the Tribune and TOC covered. Meanwhile, the Reader comes out with fourteen reviews for today, with David Hammond highlighting basically every halfway decent Puerto Rican and Cuban restaurant in town, so instead of cataloging them all, we'll just give you the important stuff:

1) Puerto Rican and Cuban cuisines both draw heavily from Spanish and West African traditions, which means lots of rice and beans and lots of pork and cod. Stews are a popular medium for the cuisines, but both cuisines are also famous for their sandwiches

2) The differences in spicing between the two is subtle, but detectable: Cuban cuisine sticks with basics like onions, garlic, and green peppers, while Puerto Rican cuisine uses culantro (NOT cilantro; actually more like coriander)

3) Chicago has made its mark on Puerto Rican cuisine primarily by way of the jibarito, a sandwich allegedly created by Juan Figuera of Borinquen (Bucktown / North Center / Montclare), which is basically a meaty sandwich with mayo and veggies between two slices of fried plantain (although vegetarian versions are available). Not healthy, but definitely happy

4) For authentic, old-school Cuban food, check out the ropa vieja (steak stewed with peppers in a tomato-based criollo sauce) at Col-ubas Steak House in Andersonville. It's available three ways: as a sandwich ($3.95), as an entree ($11.95), and part of Thursday's lunch buffet

The Wings of the Dove: Puerto Rican and Cuban Specialties [Reader]
Borinquen I [MenuPages]
Borinquen II [MenuPages]
Borinquen III [MenuPages]
Col-ubas Steak House [MenuPages]
[Photo: What your jibarito ought to look like, courtesy of Mgmax/flickr]

Emergency Ices Update!

Oops, we lied a little; when we said it was going to be in the 70s tomorrow, we meant 60 degrees with a 30% chance of t-storms. But cheer up - it's supposed to be 78 and mostly sunny on Monday.

Miss Winter? Be Nostalgic With Icy Desserts

This weekend (well, Saturday), it's going back into the 70s; not quite warm enough where fruit-derived ice is a necessity, but should you wish to indulge, the concoction is definitely back for the season. For those of you in the Wrigleyville/Lakeview area, Soupbox has re-morphed into Soupbox/Icebox; they've been serving a few flavors this past week, but over the weekend, they'll be offering the full complement of icyfruits (as they call them):
Lemon - Lime - Coconut - Passion Fruit - Kiwi - Grape - Orange Peach - Grapefruit - Raspberry - Watermelon - Strawberry - Mango Banana - Blueberry - Cherry Blackberry - IcyChocolate - Cantaloupe - Pineapple
We wonder how they decided that orange, peach, mango and banana were too intense to be served pure, by themselves, alone in a cup. Orange can be fairly acidic, but blood orange works really well by itself; peach is very soft, but sometimes that kind of delicacy can work on a warm evening; mediocre mangoes can be a little bitter, although the fantastic Indian variety will be arriving soon; banana on its own is intense, so we will give them that one.

ice kacang.jpg But we digress. Another ice spot worth investigating, this one authentically Italian, is Mario's Italian Lemonade, located in a shack in University Village (1068 W Taylor St, no phone [any place that is too cool to have a phone number is also too cool to be on MenuPages]). Erik M. of LTHForum characterizes Mario's offerings in the following way:
-refreshing, watery sweetness
-granular, icy, slushy texture
-chunked fruit
This sounds about right. Check out a full discussion of Mario's, with pictures, on this thread (Mario's is highlighted for your convenience).

Finally, for a shaved ice creation from the other side of the planet, order yourself an ice kagang (one of many possible spellings) at Penang, the Malaysian standby in Chinatown. It's shaved ice topped with condensed milk, a sweet red syrup, and a bunch of crazy things like beans, jellies and corn. It's pretty strange, but it works. Try it next time the temperature hits 90 (so as to replicate a steamy night in Kuala Lumpur).

Soupbox/Icebox [MenuPages]
Soupbox/Icebox [Official Site]
A Luscious Taste and Aroma From India Arrives at Last [NYTimes]
Anybody else excited about Mario's Italian Lemonade [LTHForum]
Penang [MenuPages]

[Photo: Ice Kacang, eatzycath/flickr]

FYI: Does Starbucks Use Food Coloring To Make Its Coffee Black?

• Canada mad cow cases hit double digits [Environment News Service]
• Illinois to Chicagoland transit: slow down [Tribune]
• Sbux profit up 18%, plans to open 10k new stores by decade's end [Bloomberg]
• Martha Stewart frozen foods slumming it at Costco [NYTimes]
• Something that never existed before: black food coloring [Sun-Times]

May 03, 2007

Today's Discussion: Melamine Delicious In Cake!

Melamine.png In fact, in today's NYTimes article reporting the latest on the pet food scandal, a Chinese chemical company manager made just such a claim (well, more that melamine can be used in baking than that it's tasty; the chemical, as it happens, is flavorless). The spiked feed is slowly making its way through our food supply, so far by way of chickens and pigs. It's not even all that toxic to humans, although it's possible it might cause kidney stones, cancer, or reproductive damage. We are probably at greater risk from E. Coli poisoning than getting sick from melamine, but that gives scant comfort to millions of nervous pet owners.

One outcome of this crisis will likely be much more FDA oversight into food imports; another will be a tremendous uptick in organic pet food and the like. What we are equally interested in is the impact on China and its trustworthiness in global commerce. At first, China disputed claims that its exports were at all at fault, but quickly backed down from this position amid growing evidence and international fervor. No two ways about it: Chinese companies were dumping industrial chemicals into their wheat gluten to up the protein count and increase profits. At the time, this was not illegal in China! Only last Friday did China ban melamine in food products for export and for domestic human consumption.

Given that melamine has no nutritional value and is only used in food products to increase profit, it's a wonder that it was permitted in the first place...or not. But following the ban, the NYTimes reports (in the same article) that "chemical companies in China continue to say they sell melamine scrap to animal feed companies and even to food companies that make bakery items."

For better or worse, this is how we read it:
1) China's regard for safety and quality control seems to kick in only when such measures are profitable
2) China has a lot of trouble controlling its explosive and corrupt private sector
3) China is going to lose a lot of face (and trade) over this.

Personally, we hope this does not affect our monthly shipment of bird's nest, which we use for soup.

China Makes Arrest in Pet Food Case [NYTimes]
California pig farm quarantined [Meat News]
Melamine Contaminant Found In Chicken Feed [Science Daily]
Melamine [Wikipedia]

[Photo: Melamine/Wikipedia]

Viewing Pleasure: Biscotti & Coffee @ Southport Grocery

biscotti.jpg

It's the afternoon, so we're a bit sleepy and in need of a pick-us-up. How do we accomplish that? By imagining eating this biscotti and drinking its attendant coffee, that's how. Would you look at how that chocolate dripped and hardened over the biscotti's left flank? It is clear that this is very high cacao content stuff, free of impurities; it isn't even cracking! The cookie itself looks almost savory in its coloration, with just the right amount of moisture (not easy to achieve in the twice-baked confection). With respect to the photograph itself, the vivid richness of the chocolate and biscotti contrasts very effectively with the soft porcelain and out-of-focus expanse of black coffee. Yes, we're feeling much better now. Check it out for yourself at Southport, where the combo is available for $4.75 (and the coffee is unlimited!)

Southport Grocery & Cafe [MenuPages]
Southport Grocery & Cafe [Official Site]

[Photo: Elizabeth L./flickr]

Review Revue: Tribune & Time Out @ Chalkboard, Baccala, Hop Haus, And A Bunch Of Other Places

This week, the Trib and TOC do a thorough job choosing restaurants to review whose menus we don't have. But that's not going to stop us from summarizing the reviews (and previews) for you, because that's what bloggers are for. Since so many spots were covered this week, we will deliver the news in our favorite format, alphabetical order (and we will have all these menus eventually, whether the restaurants like it or not):

200 East on Chestnut is a popular destination these days, especially for the over 40 set. An old-fashion-y supper club with smooth jazz and accessible Italian food, a night out at 200 East promises good times, dancing, and no whippersnappers [Terry Armour/Tribune]

• Anteprima is coming to Andersonville this week, where seasonal Italian home cooking will be served up in a relaxed setting. Expect to pick out your own antipasti off a large butcher's block, and enjoy rustic, regional pastas and main dishes like braised duckling over soft polenta with capers, olives and balsamic [Heather Shouse/Time Out]

Baccala continues making the rounds, this time winning the praises of David Tamarkin. The cuisine is not for the faint of heart, because all the lard and butter and oil could certainly clog an artery. Like Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsey, chef John Bubala is not out to compromise or conform to standards of dietary decency; instead, he aims to transport the diner into a state of indulgent bliss, and his weapon is fat. This philosophy is borne out in the delicious food - failing that, the enterprise would be both sinful and hollow. If two inches of pure fat dangling from a braised pork butt does not appeal, then steer clear. Otherwise, welcome to heaven [David Tamarkin/Time Out]

• Chalkboard is a new American bistro in Lincoln Square that is notable for changing its menu every day (in fact, "chalkboard" refers to the medium on which the menu is presented). This is great for the diner, who gets to choose from a variety of fresh, seasonal, and au currant dishes, but profoundly inconvenient for MenuPages. This policy is not the product of a fussy, social-climbing chef who is just waiting to launch his restaurant empire; after all, without a written menu, how easily can things be replicated between venues? In fact, Chef Gilbert Langlois is devoted to being a neighborhood restaurateur for the long haul, and this shows in his accessible cuisine and attention to service. Phil Vettel speaks warmly of options like skillet-roasted pork, fried chicken and Indiana duck breast, all prepared in an unpretentious, down-home manner and available for $15-$25. He was also impressed by a bevy of staff jumping to attention in order to answer a patron's offhand question about an ingredient, and the functionality of the bathrooms (high-powered hand blowers really do make life better). All in all, a great neighborhood spot. If only they had a sample menu for us... [Phil Vettel/Tribune]

• Coal Fire is an old school East Coast pizza place opening this weekend(ish) on W Grand Ave. Chef Jay Spilane will channel the best of New Haven and Brooklyn, using actual coal-fired ovens to produce the crisp, chewy, bubbly crust so many Chicago transplants crave, and on top of that, it's going to be BYOB. What remains to be scene is whether real East Coast pizza can be produced with Chicago water in the dough [Heather Shouse/Time Out]

• Hop Haus, in River North, is a new venture from the Leona's people that wants to bring a little consideration to your burger-and-beer experience by way of thoughtful beer pairings. Well, the beers are great, but the burgers could use some work. Evidently, the kitchen is not yet familiar with the temperature called medium rare. We think that a burger served medium well, which apparently happens not on request here, is anathema and ought to be punished by excommunication from the kitchen. Hopefully, for their sake, they will work this issue out [Heather Shouse/Time Out]

• Room 21 promises a bit of Prohibition-era cool in a giant, Rococo/speakeasy loft in the Near South. Evidently, Al Capone stored liquor in a space (called room 21, in fact) that's connected to the former warehouse where Room 21 is now located; ah, how we cling to romanticized versions of the past. Anyway, expect classic American dishes and a sophisticated night out that, despite its connection to Chicago history, could as easy take place in LA or Las Vegas [Heather Shouse/Time Out] • Sura is the new Thai restaurant in Lakeview that's getting everyone's attention (including ours) for its space-age design and flashy menu. Meanwhile, despite its name meaning "liquor" in Thai, there's no liquor license yet, so get in on that discount while you can [Heather Shouse/Time Out]

Note to Heather: we're in awe of your prolific output this week!

Imbibing: High/Low, Just Right

taste of town.jpg Okay, this is urgent: the final deadline for purchasing your ticket to Wine Enthusiast's Toast of the Town is at 12pm!

Yes, Toast of the Town, what may be one of the biggest wine events of the year. If you knew about it already, you can feel smug, and if not, you can be thankful. A win-win! We won't even waste your time coming up with our own summary, so here's their lit:
• Taste over 500 wines and spirits
• Savor culinary creations from 30 top-rated restaurants
• Experience the glamour of Chicago's Field Museum
• A silent auction of fine wines and accessories, benefiting America's Second Harvest: The Nation's Food Bank Network, will be held at each event
You know it's big because there are parallel events in New York and San Francisco, but between you and us, Chicago's is the best, and certainly takes place at the coolest venue. Mere proles will purchase a ticket for $95 and show up at 7:30 for the three hour Grand Tasting, but you, reader, are better than that. For a song ($185), a world of VIP tasting opens up at 6pm. The effect, when the rest of the crowd shows up, will be like sitting in first class, sipping champagne, and smirking as the cattle shuttle past. The number and quality of restaurants and wineries involved in this events is staggering. Plus, since it's on a Thursday, only serious connoisseurs will bother coming out. Stop reading this immediately, and purchase access:! Hoi Polloi / Aristocracy

paper dolls.jpg Obviously not. For something much more practical, did you know that Hamburger Mary's has a performance space called Mary's Attic? Tonight, it's hosting two pretty hip acts: the first (8pm, $5 cover) is the yodeling, "hillbilly-esque" Famous Brothers, offering musical comedy to delight your inner ruralite. Stick around two hours, and things get hairy: the Attic's monthly drag show, Paper Dolls, is open to anyone with two songs in their head and a whole lotta special in their heart. Ready for the kicker? Unlike most events, you can actually win money at this one - $100 first prize, and no cover, but be there at 9:30 to register. Amazing! Also, they have burgers.

Toast of the Town [Wine Enthusiast]
Hamburger Mary's [MenuPages]
Hamburger Mary's [Official Site]

[Photos: Wine Enthusiast and Chicago Pride. Guess which is which...]

FYI: Court Action Maintains, Nature Disrupts Status Quo

• Cutesy headlines belie huge potential problems with disappearing bees [CNN]
• Milk prices, now tied to energy through cows and corn, are spiking [CNN]
• KFC trans fat lawsuit dismissed as silly; company ditching trans fat anyway [CNN]
• Horse slaughterhouse given stay of execution in DeKalb; horses not so lucky [Tribune]
• In PR move, Frango production coming back to Chicago [Tribune]

May 02, 2007

Menu Mission: Wiener's Circle

Sometimes (very rarely!) we fail to get the menu of an important restaurant, and this is one of those times. Details on how to rectify the situation follow

The Wiener's Circle is a Chicago institution par excellence, but having never visited it very late at night, we had no idea it was this crazy. Observe the result of a customer ordering a chocolate milkshake:


The YouTuber, stusmith13, writes:
Wiener's Circle is a popular restaurant in Chicago, Illinois. It is located at 2622 N. Clark St. It is best known for its interesting staff members (the most famous being 'Poochie') and the 'Chocolate Milkshake' (where if you go late at night, pay $10 and ask for a chocolate milkshake you get flashed by one of the almost all African American staff). It has been seen in popular culture on Comedy Central's Insomniac with Dave Attell and NPR's This American Life.
How about that. Well, now to the matter at hand: we don't have the menu for Wiener's Circle because such a thing does not exist beyond what's written on the walls. If anyone could send us a photo of the menu board with a sufficiently high resolution to make out the items and prices (it can be pretty fuzzy; we like a challenge), we would be forever grateful to that person. This gratitude would be borne out in name drops, general platitudes, and most any other way a submitter suggests (note to all the sickos out there: yes!)

And if you don't have a digicam, write it out in longhand. Now we will sit by our inbox and wait.

Wiener's Circle - Chocolate Milkshake [YouTube]
stusmith13 [YouTube]

James Beard Awards On Monday; Gone On Tuesday?

james-beard.jpg Remember how Chicago restaurateurs, food writers and other culinary luminaries got a plethora of James Beard nominations back in March? Well, just in time for the awards on Monday, the New York Times reminded us that all is not candy and liquor over at the Foundation (was it clear we meant that the situation is problematic? Not every food metaphor works, unfortunately). Several years of mismanagement, including the embezzlement of funds, lack of scholarship support and general mission shift led the James Beard Foundation near the brink of dissolution, or at least losing the support of its main financial contributors. As it is, they are paying back their loans at a worse-than-subprime 11% interest rate. Not an Enron, exactly, but still, too close to the financial picture of your average restaurant for comfort. We may wish to believe that our anchoring institutions, like James Beard, operate in a continuum beyond the reach of poor ethics and fiscal irresponsibility, but unfortunately, anything that humans are in charge of runs the risk of impropriety. But the show will go on, and awards will be handed out on May 7th. We will report the results (as will everyone else), but in the meantime, best of luck to the 15 Chicagoland nominees, and don't worry: the organization is shaping up, and the award will have value and relevance for some time to come.

Questions Linger for Beard Foundation [NYTimes]

[Photo: James Beard can do no wrong]

Catching Up On Old Times: Alhambra, Baccala, Carbon

Here, we will bring you up to date on unresolved issues that we've previously covered. In this edition, the ABCs of restaurants (get it?)

• On Monday, we talked about the opening of Alhambra Palace, the West Loop Middle Eastern Extravaganza (the monumentality of Alhambra forced us to capitalize extravaganza). Two developments have happened since. First, we put up the full menu, although the Epicure menu is still in effect until the end of the week. Second, Madeline Nusser at the TOC blog thought that place was pretty crazy ("the haze of the smoke machines and a throng of turbaned dancers"), but the food wasn't anything special. We will, of course, let you know when the reviews start coming in for the real stuff (lobster ravioli, with sautéed crab mushrooms, roasted garlic, fresh parsley & elegant lobster broth, $26).

• We have been talking about Baccala since the earliest days of the blog. Well, as you can tell from the link, we finally got their menu! Just in time for them to launch a website. Sigh, and we thought we were going to have exclusive information for the world. Oh well, at least we're good at organizing things. Anyhoo, it's rather inexpensive; entrees top out at $15, and sound pretty filling (pork butt with soft polenta, onions & pancetta, $14).

• Finally, we have harbored what amounts to a small vendetta against Carbón, and frankly, we don't even know why anymore. Oh wait, yes we do - they still don't grill over charcoal. Yeah, gas. This is the last we're going to mention it unless we have a compelling reason to reprise the issue, but why, oh why would you name a restaurant after a cooking process, laud its advantages in your promotional material, and then make no attempt to actually use that cooking process at your restaurant? As Otto once said, "flagrant false advertising."

Alhambra Palace [MenuPages]
Alhambra Palace [Official Site]
Arabian night [TOC Blog]
Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]
Carbon [MenuPages]

Review Revue: Sun-Times @ 200 East & Adobo Grill, Sort Of

chile en nogada.jpg

This week's Sun-Times food section is chock full of nifty little reports about events and food trends, but not so much about specific restaurants and their merits. As is our duty, we will catalogue the reviews, and as a bonus, summarize the more interesting articles so you don't have to slog through the entire section to find that one piece of information that's actually pertinent to your life.

First up is 200 East on Chestnut, in the Seneca Hotel. The club conjured an older, softer time for Denise O'Neal, who liked the standard Italian menu and the jazzy 50s ambiance. Ms. O'Neal also mentions that it is permissible to smoke by the bar, which surely evokes the atmosphere of a lounge of days gone by, but good luck partaking after this year (if you click through, note the use of "crazy-quilt" to describe the current legal situation in the state)

It is difficult to say which (or whether) Adobo Grill is being reviewed (Old Town / Wicker Park); it's really more of a focus than a critique. We suspect all the hubbub has to do with Cinco De Mayo, which chef Freddy Sanchez will be celebrating in force at both locations. Sue Ontiveros speaks with Sanchez, who gives a run-down of essential CdM accoutrements: music, beer, tequila, guacamole, and we cannot argue with this assessment. Also, Sanchez will be serving up an historical dish which commemorates the 1862 victory of the Mexican people over the French army in Puebla (yes, that is what you will be drinking to on Saturday). The dish is called Chiles en Nogada (above), and represents the Mexican flag, and we quote:
The green by the poblano chiles; the white by a sauce of walnuts, goat cheese, condensed milk and cinnamon. A savory picadillo is topped by a bright pomegranate sauce, signifying the red of the flag.
Hey, that sounds pretty good, even for $17.95. Try some before the tequila wears your taste buds down to a nub, although only at the WP location; the OT location is doing a whole other thing for some reason (maybe because OT isn't as cool?). Either location will involve forced Mariachi merriment from 6pm-9pm, though.

Other stuff going on in the Sun-Times:

• A rundown of all the name-brand chef shows on TV (regrettably does not include Alton Brown)
• Dining tables made of unusual surfaces (bowling lanes) are expensive but totally hip
• Italian wine options get fleshed out at local restaurants
• New Latino food pyramid recommends eating like it were 1500 A.D.
• Lobsters are too expensive to serve right now
• In case Adobo's not your bag for this CdM, here are some other options.

The Sun-Times totally brought it today, right? Totally.

[Photo: Chiles en Nogada by El_imaginario/flickr. A bit different than what we'd imagined...]

FYI: Protecting Your Bottom Line, Ass

• Illinois, prepare to snuff out your smokeable tobacco [Tribune]
• "Food safety czar" post created at FDA; who was in charge before? [Tribune]
• Should cloned food be labeled as such? A complicated question... [California Aggie]
• Minneapolis, a mere 400 miles away, is new foodie hotspot [NYTimes]
• Food criticism goes corporate; restaurateurs couldn't be happier [Sun-Times]

May 01, 2007

Today's Discussion: When The State Takes Your Grocery Money

Let's take a moment out of the afternoon to consider a pressing issue to almost none of you: grocery taxes. They're in the news right now because one (Arkansas) of the three states (Arkansas, Alabama, Mississippi) that levy their full state sales tax on groceries just passed legislation which effectively halves their grocery tax. Why aren't the other two doing that? Well, they're poor states without a lot of tax revenue, and they're loathe to cut off a guaranteed stream - after all, people need to eat, so they will always buy groceries. But it is precisely that people need to eat that makes grocery taxes so problematic.

Are you familiar, dear reader, with the concept of regressive taxing? Basically, a regressive tax is one that costs more for poor people to pay than for rich people. Hey, wait a sec - isn't everyone in the state paying the same sales tax rate on their groceries? Sure, but poor people pay a much higher percentage of their income on groceries than rich people do, and it's not like they can alter their behavior all that much to reduce the burden. So, grocery taxes act as a hidden flat state income tax, which is, by definition, regressive (a true flat tax would apply the same level of burden to all taxpayers and is actually quite difficult to achieve, when one considers assets, interest, dividends and so forth).

All this is especially troubling in Mississippi and Alabama, two states with citizenry who can ill afford extra taxes on necessities. The national picture is also quite telling: of the 45 states with sales taxes, 30 have waived all grocery taxes. Seven (soon to be eight) states use a lower sales tax for groceries than other items, and five states offer rebates and credits to lower-income residents, leaving the two Deep South states shamefully alone in their policies (the policies are shameful, not that they are the only states which retain them). As it turns out, of the 15 states that levy grocery taxes, only one is a "blue" state: Illinois.

Yes, the 1% grocery tax in Illinois is nominal, but a bad regressive tax is a bad regressive tax. Isn't the 10.25% tax we pay to eat out in Chicago enough? Just something to think about during this, the week of the food stamp challenge.

Ala., Miss. criticized for taxes on food [Clarion Ledger]
Regressive Tax [Wikipedia]
Sales & Use Taxes [Illinois Revenue]
A Governor Truly Tightens His Belt [NYTimes]

Imbibing: Finding The Middle Ground Of Wine

wine vortex.jpg Ah, the spring: time of hot, sunny days, and cold, cloudy days. Except sometimes, it's warm and cloudy, and sometimes it's cool with blue skies. Straddling this middle ground can be difficult. It is entirely unclear where to go, what to wear, how to feel. You know what else is exactly the same way? Wine. On the spectrum between dry, crisp, light white wines and big, fruity and heavy red wines is a vortex of uncertainty (rosé?) that happens to encompass many of one's everyday pairing and sipping needs. What inhabits this swirling ocean? Why are we burdening you with all these intriguing analogies? Because now your pump is fully primed for the wine tasting at The Spot tonight at 7pm. They have found the middle ground: heavy whites and light reds, and they're offering up three of each for your palate's pleasure. $10 gets you samples of each, and a glass of your favorite at the end. Sweet! No food with this one, by the way, but do check out their menu.

The Spot [MenuPages]

[Photo: Glass Artists - get it? It's a vortex wine stopper!]

Viewing Pleasure: Erwin Spells Its Name With A Lower-Case E

erwin.jpg

We're feelin' the pig these days, and you should be, too. This specimen, a wood grilled rib pork chop, hails from erwin in Wrigleyville, where it's served with braised red cabbage and grilled potatoes ($22). Well, obviously not every night, since these potatoes are clearly mashed and not grilled, or maybe the diner made a special request (erwin serves a flank steak with mashed potatoes, so it is not so hard to believe they would make a substitution). Note the freshness of that sprig of broad-leaf parsley, and revel in the return of the growing season.

erwin [MenuPages]
erwin [Official Site]

[Photo: maomau/flickr]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: La Gondola, Hing Kee, Kroll's

We may not do our own reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users have it covered. Here are three of the best from the past week:

This April 30th review for La Gondola from Sandy highlights a genre we like to call strip mall chic, wherein a really good restaurant hides itself in a really crappy setting (and what could be worse than a strip mall? Even a rural shack has more dignity):
I have been eating @ La Gondola for almost 3 years, not only is the service great, but all entrees come with Soup or Salad and hearty italian bread, not sure what previous reviewer was talking about, anyhoot, expect delivery and pick-up to be slow during peak times, they are very popular, and all dishes are made from scratch, Pizza is also very good Chicago style "cracker crust" the crust does have little flavor but the marriage between the sauce and mozzarella is delish! always ask for extra thin crust, that's the way to eat chicago style pizza, all in all La Gondola is one of those little "authentic" eateries hidden in a strip mall, more than once i have seen celebrity's and news personalities, don't be fooled by location, it's casual but still a white table cloth establishment, not unusual to see someone wearing Levis next someone wearing Armani, very genuine independant restaurant, you won't be dissappointed.
* * *

The ovaltine at Hing Kee may not have been decadent enough for Spatter on April 28th, but mere mortals will be more than sated:
A friend and I went to this restaurant seeking a Vietnamese specialty--Bo La Lot (ground meat wrapped in betel leaf). Unfortunately, this was not what was served. Instead what was served was Bo rau que (meat wrapped in basil). Which wasn't what I was looking for and the meatballs weren't that great. We started with shrimp and pork spring rolls. Hands down the best spring roll I have tried--tasty filling of perfectly minced pork and filets of shrimp with vermicelli,lettuce, fresh basil, and other herbs served with a tasty dipping sauce. Highly rec. My friend had a Chinese chicken dish, which I cannot recollect the name. She really enjoyed it. There was an enormous portion given (just like the spring rolls). Boneless pieces of (dark meat) chicken in a savory sauce with piles of celery, carrots, bamboo, and water chestnuts. I had the condensed milk hot ovaltine. A bit disappointed. I was expecting a richer, more decadent ovaltine. But I think the ovaltine my mom made when I was a kid was richer than what I had at Hing Kee. Actually the ovaltine tasted like ovaltine & water. The waitress was really kind. I brought in a name of a vietnamese dish I wanted to try and when she couldn't figure it out, she asked multiple other employees for their help. That was really kind of her. Definitely above and beyond your typical server. Everyone was very polite!
* * *

Finally, we could not help but include this quicky from April 25th about Kroll's South Loop, entitled "My Car Club LOVES Kroll's":
I am the Secretary for the Chi-Town Grand Prix Club and we go to Kroll's at least once a week... We love the food, atmosphere and some of the wait staff... The prices for the food and drinks are excellent and it is a great place to watch sports!!!! We LOVE Kroll's~ Mz Butta
We are huge fans of Mz Butta's work, and sincerely hope she continues to contribute her wisdom to the MP community.

FYI: Brilliant New Ideas

• E. Coli in the food? Just vaccinate the cows! [NYTimes]
• Apparently, there hasn't been iced coffee at McD's until now [Tribune]
• Contaminated animal feed everywhere these days [abc7chicago]
• Anti-quota lobby has new allies Congressional sugar showdown [CQ]
• Legit, American food fests around the country this month [Epicuious]

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