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July 31, 2007

Today's Graph: Flavor Preference By Age Group

We love it when Nation's Restaurant News sends us their "consumer scorecards," especially when the data is superficially counterintuitive, like this one below:

spicy demographics.jpg

So assuming that this is accurate, why are people under the age of 34 so disinterested in flavor? The 65+ data is pretty self-explanatory; older Americans grew up before flavor was invented, and reject it when it's presented to them. Also/actually, their GI systems can't really handle the allicin and capsaicin immanent to the specific flavors that the survey covered.

But it's really shocking that even the reasonably experienced 25-34 year old group has less inclination toward garlic and spiciness than their elderly peers. Let's think of why. It would help if we could see a graph of preference for sweet flavors by age. Could we imagine a possible world in which our sweet taste buds weaken and our savory taste buds strengthen as we reach middle age? Yes, a physiological explanation would be much less alarming than a social one. Because to us, not liking garlicky and spicy food basically means not liking food, period. If that were the case, we'd feel very lonely and discouraged about the future of this nation.

Our best bet is to decide that this poll was conducted in Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota, exclusively, because the eating we've done in those states has been pretty bland and would explain these distressing figures. Perhaps we'll have some spicy ice cream to numb ourself into believing it.

[Photo: Desire for spice peaks at midlife {NRN}]

WGN Out @ Kitsch'n On Roscoe

Kitschn-On-Roscoe-Logo.jpg Get it? Never mind. It seems that tomorrow morning at 9am, WGN TV will be filming at Kitsch'n on Roscoe for a segment on breakfast and brunch spots, a category in which KoR certainly qualifies. They're going to be interviewing diners, so that could potentially include you! It's a classier way to get on TV than via reality programming. Start thinking of witty things to say..."we come here for the apostrophe"? That'd never make it on the air, would it. No, you'll have to be wittier than that, but we have faith in your abilities. If - and this is a big if - any of you go and get filmed, let us know what words of wisdom about breakfast you've shared with Chicagoland.

Kitsch'n on Roscoe [MenuPages]
Kitsch'n on Roscoe [Official Site]

[Photo: the logo, Kitsch'n on Roscoe]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: South Side!

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are three of interest.

What up, South Side? Don't think we're not thinking about you. In the past week, we've gotten reviews for restaurants in Bridgeport, Hyde Park, and Hegewisch. They're not destinations, but they ought to be.

On July 25th, "81 since 1980" had some lovely things to say about Club 81 Too down in exotic Hegewisch, on 131st Street and Avenue M:
I know, I know...they keep saying they have the best fried fish but for the last 26 years, I cant get over my passion for the BBQ chicken (white meat only). That's all I ever order. Well, that and a pitcher of HighLife. It's actually a trailer house attached to a bar. It's like walking into a mobile home from 1979. Tacky but delightful. Dress sloppy - it's ok. The food is delicious and cheap. My chicken goes for 8 bucks, with fries, coleslaw, cottage cheese, bread, and 2 raw green onions - trust me, it's great. The owner is famous for walking around the table, telling bad jokes. They only have dinner on Wed & Friday nights. Cash only. All I can say is that I am a Club 81 lifer!!
"Tacky" and "sloppy" is just about the best you can hope for in a restaurant, isn't it? Yep, it's really quite a timewarp down there.

Anyway, the next review was not so kind. It was left on 7/28 by "Anonymous" for Healthy Food Lithuanian, and it was entitled, "this place is anything but healthy":
I ordered the combination Koldunai (boiled meat dumplings and cheese dumplings with bacon and sour cream) and Kugelis (baked potato pudding with sour cream). It came with a barley soup that was tasteless. The dumplings were ok but the Kugelis was literally soaked in grease. Would not recommend.
Eek. Well, it's true, but so tasty anyway! We suspect that the "healthy" part is a little ironic gift for those of us who know better. People always seem to think their national cuisine is healthy, even when it's a pile of starch and oil, and we ignore them and eat our pierogi and latkes to spite ourselves.

Finally, a defense of Rajun Cajun came in on the same day from "Dave":
I disagree with some of the reviews on here about this place. The prices are actually very low and the Indian food is usually very good-- sometimes excellent. I've been to most of the Indian restaurants in Chicago (in Devon and elsewhere) and the ones that are much better than the Rajun Cajun are also much, much more expensive. In this price-range, the Indian food at Rajun Cajun rivals that of any other Indian restaurant in Chicago. I've always been impressed by this place and I find it hard to account for the complaints on here-- I suspect it has something to do with the tendency among U. of C. students to complain about everything.
It's also the only Indian food for, like, six miles in any direction. For this reason, people will complain endlessly but also keep the place packed.

Club 81 Too [MenuPages]
Healthy Food Lithuanian [MenuPages]
Rajun Cajun [MenuPages]

Opening: Fat Cat

We were reading Drive-Thru the other day and came upon a post about Uptown, which slyly referenced a new "hot spot" that the writer was shut out of by a private party before it moved on to the ultimate focus of the post, Fiesta Mexicana. But we were not so easily deterred, and we followed the link to Fat Cat, where we found news of a new bar, but no menu. Having made it this far, we surely weren't going to back down now. Bing bam boom, and we got it for you.

fat_cat_logo2.gif The bar, just north of Lawrence on Broadway, opened around two weeks ago, according to this press release we found. Relevant factoids before we move on to the contents of the menu:
1) It has a 40 foot Art Deco bar
2) It's 4400 square feet (that's massive!)
3) It's run by Cy Oldham of Silver Cloud and Howard Natinsky of Five Star

And now that the formalities are out of the way, we can delve into the bar's salads and sandwiches. We were immediately charmed by their signature "999 Island" dressing, which doesn't really indicate anything special about the dressing itself but is clever nonetheless. The dressing is served with their Crab Louis salad, which consists of a wedge of iceberg and romaine lettuce topped with tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, broccoli, hard-boiled egg, and lightly dressed crabmeat for $10.95. Or for those with an alliterative bent, consider trying the Port Poached Pear salad with fresh baby spinach, candied walnuts, port poached pears, bleu cheese crumbles dressing drizzled with a port reduction for $9.95.

Sandwiches are also available, and they're cheaper than the salads. The two that caught our attention are the Braised Cuban Pork Belly Sammy, which is rubbed with Cuban spices, marinated overnight and slow cooked, and then topped with red cabbage slaw, spicy mayo, Swiss cheese, and sliced pickles on ciabatta for $9.95, and the Thanksgiving Day Sandwich with oven roasted turkey, homemade herb stuffing, cranberry sauce and mayo on toasted whole wheat bread for $8.95. The former comes with fries, and the latter with a green bean casserole.

But the main event is the drinks, which have kitschy 30s and 40s themes like the The Gatsby Cocktail (Tanqueray gin, cucumber puree, and white cranberry juice together in a cocktail and garnished with a cucumber) and the St. Valentine's Day Massacre (brandy shaken with black raspberry liqueur, cranberry and lime juice in this dry yet fruity martini; the Massacre was in 1929, but who's counting). The bar also has a wide selection of bottled beers, but we were dismayed to find "Belgium" misspelled as "Belguim" six separate times as we entered the menu, among a few dozen other typos. Please, some quality control! Be that as it may, it's a reasonable place to check out after a concert; they're open until 2am every night and 3 am on Saturdays (except when there's a private party, apparently).

Fat Cat [MenuPages]
Fat Cat [Official Site]
Fat Cat open in Chicago’s Uptown neighborhood [Food with Barbara Rolek]

[Photo: the logo, Fat Cat]

FYI: Okay, Maybe It's Not Actually Meth Addicts

• Meth addicts stealing copper wire from California farms [NYTimes]
• Meth addicts steal copper piping from Indiana food bank [Indystar]
• Someone finally got botulism in recall case [ScienceDaily]
• Whole Foods/Wild Oats merger uncertain at FTC hearing [Denver Post]
• Angelina's here! Maybe at NoMI or RL? [Sun-Times]

July 30, 2007

¡Promoción!: 40th Anniversary Appetizers At Pepe's

We got an email promoting two special appetizers that commemorate Pepe's fortieth anniversary. Forty years! That's exciting. Let's see what our present is:

presidente.jpg

We weren't really sure what either of those things are, so we called up the company, and lo and behold, they connected us to the president! We're so awed by power that we're not even going to say anything snarky. Instead, a straight explication of the dishes.

The "El Presidente" is half an order of queso fundido con chorizo over tortilla chips, served with steak, beans and more cheese, and the "Carne Asada Tacos Chicos" are four small corn or flour tortillas with carne asada, topped with pico de gallo and served with guacamole.

Actually, we guess you can make most of that out from the pictures, but here are three things you didn't know.
1) The suggested retail price for each is $6.95
2) They're available for the month of August only
3) They're to be served primarily at the full-service suburban locations, as opposed to the "inner city" storefronts

Sorry, urbanites - looks like you'll have to hoof it.

Pepe's [MenuPages]
Pepe's [Official Site]

Premiering: No Reservations Season 3

We usually enjoy watching Anthony Bourdain's TV shows, and we usually enjoy telling you about new happenings in the food world, namibia omlette.jpg so we...five eighths or so enjoy informing the readership of the premiere of the third season of No Reservations, tonight at 9c on the Travel Channel. You know, if you have digital cable or satellite. The rest of you can read his books or something.

Tonight's episode finds Tony in Shanghai, but check it: the schedule has Bourdain in NYC next week, followed by Sao Paolo, Tahiti, and...Cleveland. Woo! that's only 345 miles away. One can almost feel the deep rumblings of Tony's stomach from that distance, no? After Cleveland comes Hong Kong, and then Patagonia, South Carolina, and Ireland - all this by September 24th. What's really getting our goat is the Namibia episode, airing in the indefinite future. We have a pretty poor sense of what they're eating in the former German South West Africa, and Bourdain is the only guy we trust to tell us (that and Wikipedia, or pretty much any blog with photographs).

But Shanghai should be fun, since it's rapidly emerging as the cultural capital of China. Hopefully, B won't get food poisoning from industrial additives!

No Reservations Season 3 [Discovery]
No Reservations Schedule [Discovery]

[Photo: cooking a giant egg in the dirt in Namibia, Discovery]

Blog Reviews: Week Of Fingers Crossed For Grant Achatz

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

achatz.jpg • Almost everything at David Burke's Primehouse is quite tasty and enjoyable, except, unfortunately, the burger, which was served on an uninspired bun with crappy fries [Chicago Burger Project]

• Aside from the obvious kid appeal of chocolate/chocolate/chocolate at Ethel's Chocolate Lounge, the lounges are happy to accommodate themselves to your little miracles [Chicagoist]

• Margarita pitchers flow freely at Fiesta Mexicana, whose cuisine is otherwise humdrum (good quality ingredients, though) [Drive-Thru]

• Our write-up last week focused on Piccolo's bruschetta and panini offerings, but they are just as much a fancy gelateria, and worth a visit on those terms [Drive-Thru]

• Defying pre-conceived notions, the pulled pork sandwich at R.J. Grunt's is actually delicious, with tender meat and spot-on sauce [Chicago Foodies]

• Deli/gourmet grocery/sandwich shop Winston's Market is winning customers with good service and great food (the chef's formerly of Trotter's) [Chicagoist]

[Photo: Grant Achatz, metroactive]

Opening: CJ's Eatery

We're always happy to see new full service restaurants opening in neighborhoods that are lacking in that category, which is certainly the case for the western stretches of Humboldt Park. cj's eatery.jpg Enter CJ's Eatery, on Grand and Avers, around where Potomac would be if it ran continuously from Hamlin through to Springfield - but it doesn't, because Grand is a big ol' diagonal out that way, and continues to be until it hits Lake way the eff out in Elmhurst or Addison or something.

Anyway, enough nerding out about the grid system. CJ's offers breakfast (starting at 6am!) lunch and dinner, handily trumping most nearby option. The menu isn't exactly cutting edge, but it is a cut above. For breakfast, we'd get the Southwestern breakfast burrito with eggs, chorizo, tomatoes, onions, cilantro and queso blanco, wrapped in a flour tortilla and topped with freshly made salsa. Why? Because it's only $3.50! During lunch, you can choose from among thirteen different sandwiches between $6 and $9 (like a Southwestern turkey club sandwich with smoked turkey breast, bacon, lettuce, tomato, avocado & pepperjack cheese, and a smoked chipotle ranch sauce for $8), and there are eight entree options for dinner (including a chili-rubbed sirloin with Southern style fried corn, topped with crispy onion strings for $14).

The restaurant, which opened three weeks ago, also offers a weekend brunch that includes (drumroll) chicken and waffles, and to top it off, the place is BYO. West Humboldt Parkers, welcome to your newly functional dining reality.

p.s. if you want to go, you'll have to wait until tomorrow; they're closed on Mondays.

CJ's Eatery [MenuPages]
CJ's Eatery [Official Site]

FYI: The Future Is Inevitable

• New transgenic animals sound delicious! [NYTimes]
• Berliners fighting the good fight against McD [Tribune]
• World's largest ketchup packet lives in IL [Sun-Times]
• Video ads coming to your a bar near you [MediaPost]
• Scientists: corn-based biofuel is not the answer [edie]

July 27, 2007

Ahh!!!

ahh!!!.jpg

Ahh!!! Have a good weekend, though.

[Photo: Will Work For Food]

Elsewhere In The Menuniverse: Controversy Edition

If there's anything the MP blog siblings like to do, it's stir up trouble and make a fuss (MP mommy and daddy raised us that way).

evil koala.jpg • MP:Boston continued her exposé on what she's rightly dubbed BeeGate 2007 (wait, when did it turn 2007?). The controversy? Is there a crisis at all, and if there is, what does it mean for our continued survival as a species.

• MP:Philadelphia reported on the nationwide "Theology on Tap" program, wherein Catholic priests go to bars and talk smack other religions. No, kidding, they just drink a lot. Kidding again, it's really setup for a huge joke of the format, "a priest walks into a bar and..."

• MP:SanFrancisco, who hates it when we concatenate San and Francisco, delved into the steamy and complex underworld of rosé wines, calling the topic as polarizing as "cilantro, George W. and koalas." No kidding; koalas drive us absolutely bonkers.

[Photo: an evil koala, Marc & Cath/TravelBlog]

Riding The Reader: La Pomme Rouge, Chaise Lounge, Vice

Jeez, why is the Reader's food section the same theme as the Trib's was yesterday? Not that it's even possible to say which one was written first, but there must be something in the air.

chicago vice.jpg So yes, fancy lounges. Anne Spiselman and Heather Kenny hit the night and come back with reports on La Pomme Rouge, Chaise Lounge and Vice. By the way, we are pleased that people are finally starting to call it "Vice" instead of "V.I.C.E"; the latter was the pre-opening name, and we're supremely anal about this sort of thing.

LPR is a romantic place, or at least wants to be with its heavy fabrics and dim lighting. Not just romantic, but daring and dashing: they're serving foie gras torchons, and allowing them to be written about! Not that a $250 fine would sting much in the face of a $300 osetra service. Chaise is not deserving of all the negative reviews it's been garnering on the internet, says Ms. Kenny, and instead serves perfectly competent, often quite enjoyable dishes like a nifty mussel bisque called Billi-bi. Vice, at least in this review, sounds quite a bit like LPR, serving similarly rich small plates and plenty of caviar. Like Ms. Spiselman, we don't see the appeal of allowing smoking in a lounge that is trying to highlight its delicate and expensive food. But there's an outside area, which should at least keep people smoke free through the summer.

Lounges aren't really our thing, but it sounds like any of these three have the potential to host enjoyable and tasty evenings. Just bring lots and lots of money.

Three Luxe Lounges [Reader]
La Pomme Rouge [Official Site]
Chaise Lounge [MenuPages]
Chaise Lounge [Official Site]
Vice [MenuPages]
[Photo: we don't get it, LBCapt/flickr]

Menu Update: Vella Cafe

Vella Cafe has been open around 10 weeks now, and we were excited to see that they've tweaked their menu slightly. Our excitement stems only from our nerdiness about menus and minutiae, not from any drastic changes. But in the tiny tweaks, one can learn a great deal about what restaurateurs are thinking.

Each section of the menu, breakfast, lunch, and blunch (weekends 9am-3pm) has undergone minor cosmetic surgery. The prices across the board are basically the same, save for a fifty cent increase on the brisket panino (beef is expensive these days!). Most of the changes involve the elimination of certain menu items that evidently weren't selling or being sufficiently profitable. The mixed greens salad with sunflower sprouts, bleu cheese and spicy candied walnuts is out, along with the portabella mushroom panino with raw milk gouda and the parsnip potato pancake. Oh, and no more soups. It also seems like the option to add a poached egg to a variety of entrees has been eliminated; poaching eggs is time-consuming and difficult to get right, and maybe people need them to be automatically included to eat them, what with the cholesterol.

There isn't much in the way of additions, really. Now you can get honey on your peanut butter and banana panino in addition to chocolate (when we said minutiae, we really meant it). The best addition, one we haven't really seen on any other menu, is a BYO Bloody Mary. For $5, Vella provides the mix, plus a skewer of grilled shrimp, chorizo, roasted poblano, celery and pickled mushrooms. All you have to do is add the vodka, and you practically have a whole meal.

So tell the truth, was this inherently interesting to any of you?

Vella Cafe [MenuPages]
Vella Cafe [Official Site]

FYI: Foodstuffs Refuse To Be Contained

• Oberweis ad mixing dairy and politics not kosher [Tribune]
• Animal parts spill all over Chicago hwy, again [Tribune]
• Oh crap, the botulism cans are exploding! [Denver Post]
• Can people please stop eating all the turtles? [IHT]
• New anti-anemia supplement has cute name: sprinkles! [AllAfrica]

July 26, 2007

Trump This!

We got this press release about the 92-story edifice to evil that Donny's building at Kinzie & Wabash, and we were scrolling through, blah blah "unparalleled amenities" blah blah "utmost attention and care" blah blah is it suicide proof?, when finally we got to the part about the dining:
Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago will become a dining destination for Chicagoans and visitors alike. A world-class, chef-driven signature restaurant - designed by noted Chicago architectural firm Valerio Dewalt Train Associates, Inc. - is located on the 16th floor, featuring a 30-foot curved window offering spectacular, up-close views of Chicago’s historic architectural landmarks, including the Wrigley Building clock tower as well as stunning lake, river and city views.

The Bar at Trump, a sophisticated lounge located on the hotel’s mezzanine level, offers a vibrant, social atmosphere. Picturesque views of the Chicago River and the Michigan Avenue Bridge ensure a memorable Chicago experience.

In addition to 24-hour room service, guests at the property may also request the services of an in-room chef (advance notice required).
We're so glad we're not in marketing (yet).

Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago

Twisting The TOC: Mexx Kitchen & Pierogi!

got pierogi.jpg Most of this week's food section is devoted to new places: TABLE fifty-two (Oprah's chef's restaurant!), Tavern on the Park (Frenchified American food), Crimson Lounge (a bar with a signature scent), and Tamalii (a tamale stand from the Maiz people).

But what we really care about is this survey of Chicago pierogi. Note that all eight spots have an 773 area code - pierogis keep it real. The winner was Smak-Tak, and the primary metric seemed to be similarity to mother's recipe. The loser, by our estimation, was Andrzej Grill (conveniently located at 1022 N Western Ave), which Michael Nagrant described thusly:
This dingy storefront decked out with nonworking video-poker machines looks like a front for the Polish mafia. While we were there, a man walked through the restaurant to a waiting pickup truck holding something wrapped in a blanket.
Sounds awesome! And the dumplings? "[K]ind of like a gut bomb." Oh man, do they take reservations?

Also, David Tamarkin eases our collective fear that Mexx Kitchen At The Whiskey Bar was a trendoid crapfest, when in fact, it's a delicious, understated Mexican gem. Except for the service, which is, in fact, trendoid crapfest-level.

[Photo: lynnieb/flickr]

Trembling Before The Tribune: Room 21 & Alhambra

First of all, no KPang or MEng? Maybe they're on vacation...oh, never mind, they're busy Stew-ing. Anyway, the rest of the staff spent the week romping through Chicago's various lounges, where the party atmosphere usually trumps the food, even if not by much.

Mr. Vettel checks in on Alhambra Palace and Room 21 finding the Prohibition-era kitsch emporium to be serving better food more competently than the Middle Eastern-themed kitsch emporium. Both, however, are worth at least a look. Terry Armour seems to like Martini Park, where people in their 30s and 40s don't have to look totally lame pretending they're cool at a North Side bar to enjoy a cocktail (and the noshing's pretty decent, too).

Maintaing this edgy theme is Susan Taylor's article on cooking with actual fire, like people apparently did before microwaves. Can you even imagine! But a live flame, and especially its embers, can do a wonder for steak, as the people at Wildfire attest.

And finally, Bill Daley touches on an issue that should have wine marketers everywhere on edge. Apparently, not only do men and women like different wines, each gender thinks they know what the other gender wants in terms of wine, and is wrong! All this according to a sample of six sommeliers, who all probably know each other. The men picked an ostensibly feminine wine and chose that as the likely favorite of the women, while the women picked an ostensibly masculine wine and chose that as the likely favorite of the men. Actually, we're no longer sure what conclusion you could draw at all from this, except that the bottle that the women chose was three times more expensive than the bottle that the men chose. Good job, ladies!

p.s. This site redesign is all well and good, but it keeps crashing our Firefox, especially when we have multiple tabs open. Which is most of the time. Thank you.

Alhambra Palace [MenuPages]
Alhambra Palace [Official Site]
Room 21 [MenuPages]
Room 21 [Official Site]
Martini Park [MenuPages]
Martini Park [Official Site]
Wildfire [MenuPages]
Wildfire [Official Site]
Serving up eye candy [Tribune]
A happy hour with fellow grown-ups at Martini Park [Tribune]
Quest for fire in the kitchen can yield sweet results [Tribune]
The age-old battle between the sexes extends to wine, too [Tribune]

Opening: Capi's Italian Kitchen

From the bowels of Hell, a.k.a. Bubba Gump Shrimp, issues forth a new Italian restaurant on Navy Pier called Capi's Italian Kitchen. What's gotten our panties in a knot? capi's.jpg For all we know, the food might be perfectly tasty, and the prices, maxing out at $13.95, certainly aren't unreasonable. No, the problem is in the restaurant's narrative: we are presented with a story about three chefs (Gino, Sofia, and Romero; siblings!) who each bring a signature style to the table. Gino is a traditionalist, Sofia, a "health nut," and Romero is billed as a "maverick. Their back stories are quite elaborate, given that they're merely figments of a passive-aggressive marketer's imagination.

But wait, there's more! The chef story continues on the menu, where many dishes are marked with the initial of one of the chefs to indicate whether a dish is classic, healthy or modern. For example, a strawberry balsamico salad is labeled as "innovative and contemporary," a salmon and shrimp Caesar salad is marked as healthy (doubt it), and a meatball sub is called traditional Italian (is that even really true?). Ahhh!! why do people need this cutesy performativity in their restaurants? Surely, no Chicagoan is intended to eat here. The menu actually calls Neapolitan pizza, "The 'Urban' Pizza!" Yes, urban's in quotes, and there's an exclamation point. Ugh, our nose could not possibly be turned up any higher at this moment.

Oh no, it can. The menu has several examples of one of our favorite grammatical pet peeves, the misused apostrophe. The best is that your baked goat cheese with marinara comes with toasted crostini's. That's wrong in so many ways we don't even know where to begin. Let's drop the ', and then, for good measure, the s.

Alright, we've gotten the rage out of our system. We promise to be populist the rest of the day. Buon appetito!

Capi's Italian Kitchen [MenuPages]
Capi's Italian Kitchen [Official Site]

[Photo: your humble chefs, Capi's]

FYI: Tell Us Something We Don't Know

• Your friends are making you fat! [NYTimes]
• And incidentally, Dick Cavett thinks you're fat, too [NYTime$]
• BOGO at newly reopened Macy's food court [Tribune]
• House Ag. Committee condones food labeling... [Yahoo]
• ...but will it pass Congress's muster? [WaPo]

July 25, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Maple Mousse, French Toast @ The Gage

gage french toast.jpg

Okay, maybe pleasure isn't the right word, but shock and awe come a little closer. So this objet from The Gage is a stick of French toast, coated with crispy Japanese rice (basically, artisanal Rice Krispies), set upon a maple gelee, and topped with maple foam. The mousse is in the back, and that raspberry - which is, in fact, a raspberry - gives the dish some tartness. The whole thing weighs six to seven ounces, and is available (like all Gage desserts) for only $6. If you had any doubt about the sophistication of the cuisine at the Gage, this ought to put it to rest.

The Gage [MenuPages]
The Gage [Official Site]

[Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr, who's been eating really well lately]

Notice To Unemployed Blog Readers: Get A Job!

Today's haul on Craiglist, in alphabetical order by restaurant:

Unemployed.jpgAnteprima needs a sous chef, and he or she'd better have three plus years' experience. This is a newish restaurant, and so this almost qualifies as news [Craigslist]

Aria needs a good sushi chef. Or maybe the Fairmont Hotel at large, it's hard to tell [Craigslist]

Capi's Italian Kitchen, a new self-explanatory restaurant on Navy Pier from the people who brought you Bubba Gump Shrimp, needs a barker. You know, to scream at tourists about pasta [Craigslist]

Crofton on Wells is also in need of a sous chef. Let them compete over you! [Craigslist]

Gino's East, the original one, needs delivery drivers [Craigslist]

La Mora in Roscoe Village needs full time line cooks [Craigslist]

The best of luck to all of you.

[Photo: you guys, WorkForAll]

Souping Up The Sun-Times: Intelligensia & Bonsoiree

DarkN'Stormy.jpg This week's Sun-Times food section is editor Sue Ontiveros's last. You did a great job, Sue! Anyway, her farewell article is a short list of suggestion of how the food industry could better serve customers, and some of the ideas have merit (e.g., mini loaves of sliced bread).

But the main thing going on is a pair of proprietor profiles, one from today (Doug Zell of Intelligentsia Coffee), and one from yesterday (Shin Thompson of Bonsoiree). Both good reads; certainly the most useful part for our lives is a tip from Zell about not refrigerating coffee after opening, and instead, keeping it in an airtight container in the dark. Like potatoes! Oh, and one more thing about coffee. All your favorite restaurants use Intelligentsia, and here's a list of the blends that restaurants like Avec, Charlie Trotter's, and Frontera Grill use.

Best new food: well, it's neither new nor a food, but Lisa Donovan has an explainer on the cocktail known as the Dark 'n' Stormy, which consists of dark rum, ginger beer (not ale), and lime juice. The article has a few suggestions on where to buy the ginger beer, although not as many as it seems - two paragraphs are repeated twice! (Actually, once.) That's okay, Sue, we don't care.

[Photo: DnS, travelgirl]

Imbibing: Little Black Dress Wine Club By Bottlenotes Launch Party

We apologize for writing about another boozy launch party so soon after the last one, but this promises to be mostly different. Bottlenotes is some sort of wine-of-the-month club, little black dress.jpg but geared towards encouraging actual meet-up groups to create a context for regular drinking (and overdrinking) of the product. It's also very web 2.0, what with its pretty graphics, blogs, and Yale Art History major CEO.

Meanwhile, their Little Black Dress Wine Club, which seems to be designed for semi-urban women in their 30s to booze it up together without the pretense of other activities or the uncertainty of choosing their own bottles, is holding a "private launch" tonight at the East Bank Club Roof Terrace. We don't know what's so private about it if you can pay $75 at the door ($60 in advance) to attend, but so what. It starts at 6:30pm, hors d'oeuvres will be served, and oh yes, there's a dress code: little black dresses for the ladies (duh) and "business chic" for the men. Ah, so men are invited, too. Really, given the focus of the club, the men should be required to wear little black dresses, and let in for free if they do so. Charmingly, the event's net proceeds benefit Hubbard Street Dance Chicago, because like they say, charity begins at the bottom of a bottle.

Little Black Dress Wine Club Blog [Official Site]
Little Black Dress Wine Club Site [Official Site]
Little Black Dress Wine Club Launch [Official Site]

[Photo: a little black dress, incomplete without little black gloves, from the blog]

FYI: (Un)happy Endings

• Local, organic crops destroyed by police [Sun-Times]
• McD's all about YouTubeVertising its nuggets [Tribune]
• The animals we don't eat live on cute farms now [NYTimes]
• Botulism scare spells trouble for poor community [WaPo]
• What's safe to eat in China? Space food! [Xinhua]

July 24, 2007

Frightening Invitations: McCormick & Schmick's Schaumburg Pre-Opening Celebration

If you can't beat 'em (and you really, really can't), join 'em:

schaumberg.jpg

Is taking free food and drink from a chain restaurant in a chain suburb subverting the system or capitulating to it? We'll leave that up to the reader to decide, but consider the fact that you could actually go to this event. You!

What's Amusing Right Now: Human Suffering

• McD has introduced a 42 ounce soda called "Hugo". Perhaps an homage to the hurricane, which similarly inundated innocent people with destructive liquids. Coming soon: McD co-branded soda IV drips, so you don't even need to waste energy sipping. [NYTimes]

• Rich New Yorkers getting hammered on mercury. It's true: "New Yorkers in the highest income bracket average 3.6 µg/L, compared to 2.4 µg/L among the lowest income group." Also in the crosshairs: Asian women, two-thirds of whom have elevated mercury levels. Meanwhile, Asian women in nearby Bergen County have the longest life expectancy in the country, at 91. [NYTimes]

• Maybe this doesn't count as human suffering, but squid gut ice cream? No, that's beyond even our catholic palate. [Who Sucks]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: SepiaMania!

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are four of interest.

It's been a long time since a new restaurant has gotten such fantastic feedback so soon after opening, but so far, it seems, Sepia can do no wrong. Take a look at these reviews from the past two weeks:

On July 12th, "Anonymous" wrote:
Everything has been done well by the staff and the chef! I would say to get a reservation early, as it is getting difficult to get a table. The baby octopus is fab, and definitely go for the flatbread.
and "chris59" added, "Nice place .... and nice food". Neither of these reviews were particularly relevatory, but three days later, "Steven P.K." dropped a huge one:
We tried Sepia, on a whim, on our way to Avec. From the moment we entered it was a wonderful experience. Tall paneled doors at the entrance, looking like they came from some long gone institution, are surrounded by walnut paneling and lead you inside. The dining room is not like the barren Zen experiences you might expect from hip new restaurants in the city. The mood set is one of comfort and simple edgy elegance. The latter of these two descriptions coming from the four large translucent drum encased crystal chandeliers that hang in the middle of the dining room, each above its own table. We were seated at one of two large communal tables, sitting at bar height, that had a great view of the room and a unique dramatically lit wine storage system climbing the walls to our backs. The room itself is enough entertainment value to be given by the price of a meal. But then the menu arrives and there is more. We didn't even get to the entrees and grill items before being overwhelmed by the unique choices offered as starters, flat breads and sides. We decided to order small plates and come back for entrees another time. We started with the bacon, peaches and blue cheese flat bread, chilled cucumber/avocado soup with smoked trout (kindly split for us with no need to ask) and roasted rabbit with ricotta dumplings. The portions were generous as appetizers and fully enough to share between 2 people. We then ordered the pork rillette with fig preserve and pistachio bacon brittle and the sweet corn with peppers. The pork rillette was decadent with its fatty richness and the corn could have been served as a dessert for its sweetness. The rillette was served with a rustic herbed bread which I thought a bit complex for everything else on the plate. This was only a small item, in the spirit to achieve perfection as no one ever can, for which I saw room for improvement. The pistachio bacon brittle, however, was a perfect compliment to the pork.
Wow, that's quite an endorsement. We trust anyone who can get away with a phrase like "simple edgy elegance" to describe a restaurant's mood to also be a good judge of the restaurant's food. Then again, "decadent with its fatty richness" sort of engenders an eyeroll. But we love it when we're splitting dishes and the restaurant actually splits the dish for us - an unfakeable mark of good service. And pistachio bacon brittle are the three greatest words in the English language.

Finally, on the 20th, "Michel" summarized the emerging feeling about the place, writing, "This a "must" destination for anyone that appreciates great food, service and decor. Unbelievable that it's only been open for a few days! Run, don't walk to Sepia!" And by the way, we don't think any of these are shills, since the universal lovefest continues over at LTHForum. Heed Michel's advice and make your reservation while you still can.

Sepia [MenuPages]
Sepia [Official Site]

[Photo: no photo. Want to try to do an image search for "sepia" + "chicago"? You get a bunch of brown-shaded faux-artsy pictures of the Chicago skyline. Lame.]

Opening: Piccolo

piccolo.jpg Piccolo, a new panini/bruschetta/gelato bar in the East Village, is very difficult to search for online because name competition from Piccolo Mondo in Hyde Park. But aside from both being Italian restaurants, they're not competing over anything else, being neighborhood spots in neighborhoods that are very far from each other.

Anyway, Piccolo's panini menu is heavy on the cured meats, because if you can't get bresaola, prosciutto, capicola or soprasetta on a toasted sandwich, why even bother waking up in the morning? The panini run around $7 (and come with a house pickled side salad!), but if you want a $2 sample portion, the bruschetta menu has almost as many options as the panini menu, albeit with more of a vegetarian vibe. A few salads and gelato round out the offerings, leaving locals with a good place to grab a snack before a night out partying, maybe.

Piccolo [MenuPages]
Piccolo Mondo [MenuPages]

[Photo: a piccolo, Zero Reed Instruments]

FYI: Verdicts Coming In

Macy's food court shut down by fruit flies [Sun-Times]
The full story on Grant Achatz's illness [Tribune]
Final salmonella Taste count probably 717 [News Inferno]
Biofuel demand and protectionism butt heads [Salon]
Coming: built-in nanotech food quality meters [Azonano]

July 23, 2007

Brace Yourselves: Upsetting News About Grant Achatz

From the Diner's Journal:
A few minutes ago, Grant Achatz, the chef of Alinea in Chicago, released this statement through his publicist:

“I wanted to personally report that I have been very recently diagnosed with an advanced stage of squamous cell carcinoma of the mouth. I have consulted several prominent physicians and will likely begin aggressive treatment within the next few weeks. I remain, and will remain, actively and optimistically engaged in operations at Alinea to the largest extent possible. Alinea will continue to perform at the level people have come to expect from us — I insist on that. I have received amazing support from friends, family, and everyone who has thus far been told of the disease, and I look forward to a full, cancer-free, recovery.”
We're stunned, saddened, and anxious, but hopeful. If you have prayers, put Mr. Achatz in them.

A Chef’s Toughest Challenge [NYTimes]

New On MenuPages: Sushi 28 & Sol De Mexico

sol de mexico.jpg

Sometimes - and we're not embarrassed to admit this - we completely miss an obvious restaurant that could easily be added to the site but simply slipped under the radar. Here's two:

• Is it possible to have too many BYO sushi joints in one's life? Absolutely not. And so, we're happy to finally have Sushi 28 among our ranks, bringing our total to thirty-five. Does that seem implausible? We're looking into it.

• Heard of Sol de Mexico? This Michoacan BYO (another one!) way out on Cicero has gotten nothing but net since it opened last year. Plus, it's run by Bahena's brother-in-law. Yes, go right now! [Photo: Camarones en Mole Verde, Sol de Mexico, MMChicago/flickr]

Mmm: Rabbit

Have you ever been out in the country on a beautiful summer day and spotted an adorable bunny hopping along through a field and thought, "Damn, I wish I could eat that thing?" rabbit.jpg Good, that's why we like you. Rabbit meat tastes a lot like chicken (duh), but mammalier. Which is to say, it's a little richer, a little denser, a little more velvety. It's a pretty widely used ingredient; the list we're about to present to you of restaurants that serve rabbit includes Italian, South American, Polish, Chinese and New American cuisines, and you can find the little critter all over the city.

Newcomer Sepia, which has been winning the ravest of rave reviews, has a roasted rabbit appetizer with ricotta dumplings and riesling reduction for $11. We've never met a rabbit that doesn't enjoy a good braising. Especially when you start adding dairy like Szalas does, serving their wild rabbit in a Chardonnay cream sauce ($17.95).

What else you can do to a rabbit? Roast it, for one, like Riccardo Trattoria does, and serve it au jus with olives & soft polenta for $19. In a similar vein, rabbits take well to the rotisserie, and Brasa Roja serves it off the spit with rice, potato, yuca, plantain and salad ($7.95 for half a rabbit; $13.95 for the whole thing).

But if you really want to experiment, Lao Sze Chuan does more with rabbit than maybe any other restaurant in Chicago, with two cold appetizers (Szechuan Spicy Rabbit and Five Powder Rabbit, each $5.95) and five entrees (Dry Chili Rabbit, Stewed Rabbit with Mushroom, Stewed Rabbit Home Style, Stewed Rabbit with Beans and House Special Rabbit In Hot Pot, $11.95-$12.95). If it were claimed that LSC serves the spiciest rabbit dishes in the country, we would not bat an eye.

Remember, rabbits aren't endangered or anything, so if you don't want to eat them because they're cute, you're a hypocrite.

[Photo: a baby bunny from the south suburbs, Mazzyg/flickr]

Blog Reviews: Week Of Pars Cove Lawsuits

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week (not really), in alphabetical order by restaurant

hummus.jpg • Parents don't seem to know yet about Art of Pizza, where you can get a huge slice for you kid and get out before the day's half over [Chicagoist]

• New Andersonville Italian Il Fiasco is undeniably cheap, but so far the food is lacking complexity and balance [Drive Thru]

• South Loop/Motor Row (Chicagoist's label, and we're all for it) Mexican La Cantina Grill is overpriced, underflavored, and suburbanized [Chicagoist]

• New Downtown swanky lounge Martini Park has decent food, expensive drinks and great service (plus no smoking!) [Chicagoist]

• Tin ceilings and nightly piano music make Orso's in Old Town a romantic date spot [Drive Thru]

• So Sura is still winning fans with food that's better than the decor would indicate [Chicago Foodies]

[Photo: not actually Pars's hummus, neshachan/flickr]

FYI: Sometimes, It's Important To Report The Obvious

• Red 2G finally banned in Europe (after us!) [Newsfood]
• In Ontario, prisoners better fed than hospital patients [680 News]
• Melamine pet death count will remain mystery [USA Today]
• Parents, call you kids taxis when you let them drink! [Tribune]
• Anyone who wants an eating disorder can have one [Sun-Times]

July 20, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Meatloaf @ Dine

dine meatloaf.jpg

This savory eye candy from Dine is billed as a Black Angus meatloaf with sour cream whipped potatoes, sautéed spinach, and roasted tomato gravy, and it's $14. Far be it from us to say, but don't all mashed potatoes contain sour cream? We'd buy wasabi mashed potatoes or even garlic, but sour cream mashed potatoes is redundant. Meanwhile, the real story is those onion crisps on top. Why would you eat meatloaf without them ever again, having seen this? We love the glisten and irregular shape of the loaf itself - speaks of intervention by human hands.

Maybe a nice treat for you this cold weekend? And that's our final thought for the week. Until Monday, stay classy.

Dine [MenuPages]
Dine [Official Site]

[Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr]

Releasing The Reader: Blackbird Gets A Chef De Cuisine

Nick Day pens a profile of Michael Sheerin, the new (and first ever) chef de cuisine at Blackbird. Paul Kahan decided that his attentions were too divided by other projects to give Blackbird's kitchen the attention he felt it deserved, and his sights turned to the sous chef of wd-50, the New York mole-gas extravaganza run by his friend Wylie Dufresne. Once Sheerin was hired, he set about finding a way to fuse the radical pairings of wd-50 with the seasonal ingredient focus of Blackbird, and the result is a new menu which pays tribute to both sensibilities. The seared Alaskan halibut is accompanied by pickled bone marrow, for example, and served with spring onions, swiss chard, fried capers, pine nuts and preserved lemon puree for $28. Smoked accompaniments run the gamut from sausage to onion to sunflower seeds to grapes. This ain't your grandma's Blackbird, but it has Kahan's unequivocal seal of approval.

Blackbird's New Magician [Reader]
Blackbird [MenuPages]
Blackbird [Official Site]

Website Of The Week: MilitaryChefs.com

military chef.JPG

Because every subgenre of food preparation deserves a clearinghouse, and because those clearinghouses are a one-stop shop of insights into heretofore unknown culinary worlds, we bring you Military Chefs. The website's stated goal is "EMPOWERING the military chef with the ability to promote their galley/kitchen, training programs, culinary teams, or culinary achievements on a Do-It-Yourself basis using a medium everyone is already familiar with." But since it's not a restricted .mil site, even us civilians can get in on the fun.

The site contains an incredible amount of media, from photos of food (like this telling updo of sausage and potatoes) to videos of food service officers carving ice sculptures to recipes that serve 100 or more hungry servicepeople. We were impressed enough to see a recipe for "honey-lime and lavendar basted chicken" that we will forgive their misspelling of the aromatic. It calls for four ounces of dry lavender, for Pete's sake! Military Chefs has a newsletter, a chef of the month feature, forums for each service branch, and all the trappings of a robust, early 2000s-era online community. We have a feeling that all this data will come in handy some day, hopefully far in the future.

Military Chefs [Official Site]

[Photo: "This dish of sausage and potatoes were one of the many entrees on sight for the food demonstration portion of the 32nd Army Culinary Arts Competition," Military Chefs]

FYI: Elderly, Government Largely Irresponsible

• 94 year old takes Panera drive-thru to a whole new level [Tribune]
• People aren't impressed by Bush's new food import panel [Baltimore Sun]
• Oh, right, food aid still largely tied to politics [Bloomberg]
• Most emailed NYT article for days now about summer recipes [NYTimes]
• Let the horse slaughter recommence! [Tribune]

July 19, 2007

Tallying TOC: Chaise Lounge & Vice, Country Fairs & Dive Bars

This is a dense edition of the TOC food section, with tons of restaurant name-dropping. Let's get started:

sockeye + squash.jpg The two reviews this week are for Chaise Loun