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August 31, 2007

How Not To Barbecue This Labor Day



Even though it's in slow motion, play it with the volume on. Sounds like some kind of Satanic incantation. Maybe if enough of you play it at the same time, it will actually work!

Have a good Labor Day weekend, and stay evil.

[YouTube: BBQ FIRE AT MY HOUSE by IWANTTOSWIMINTHEOCEA]

Too Hot For MenuPages: One-Line Reviews

Here are some delicious one line reviews that weren't quite up to MenuPages' standard of quality, but certainly exceed ours. These were all left during the past week (the last two were for Chicago restaurants), followed by sprightly commentary:

1) i don't like service bad!!!!
2) they have no ketchup here, yet serve egg sandwiches.... weird.
3) man is that good mustard... [Title: i would drink their mustard!]
4) the dude grab money then food with out washing his hand...
5) mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
6) I like it there but I never been there!!! lol
7) I've eaten there five times, and I've been sick every time.
8) ******* ISN'T THE SAME LIKE IT WAS IN THE 1980'S [REDACTED]

Our thoughts:
1) but you deserve it
2-3) don't screw with people's condiments
4) that's why you should pay by credit card
5) profoundly true
6) why do people even bother?
7) fool me five times...
8) that is really asking for too much

Rekajiggering The Reader: Mexx Kitchen, Bluebird, CJ's

The Reader claims it's reviewing these three restaurants because they're all new, but we know the real thread is that they all have much longer names than we were able to enumerate in the title of this post. It's actually Mexx Kitchen At The Whiskey Bar, Bluebird Bistro & Wine Bar, and CJ's Eatery. (Yes, we see there's no link for Bluebird. Soon, though, surely!) Anyway, it's complete semiotic overload - like the restaurants were too skittish to just have a proper name, and needed to add a bunch of descriptors to hide behind. Or maybe they're just trying to be informative, but as always, we prefer the more tortured explanation.

Mexx Kitchen gets the thumbs sideways from Anne Spiselman - the restaurant, tucked behind the Whiskey Bar, doesn't know if it's a drinks place, a snack place, or a fine dining place, and suffers from the indecision (this reminds us of Mike Nagrant's review of The Gage that we looked at the other day). The fancier stuff is good, but the whole out-of-whack experience can be unsettling.

Bluebird Bistro may be picking up the Wicker Park pork torch from shuttering-tomorrow Baccala; Martha Bayne reports that almost every menu item has some kind of pig product involved. Which, of course, is not a bad thing. Also, the place is low-key, and both the wine and beer offerings are decent. Actually, Bayne calls attention to the fact that the wine list is organized by climate, about which she writes, "IMHO a fairly useless conceit." That it may be, but look how IMHO has wormed its way into paper journalism! Rock on, mutable English language.

CJ's Eatery is the new Grand Ave Wishbone (that location closed, actually), according to Mike Sula, by which he means, it's a cornerstone of gentrification for its neighborhood. CJ's is bringing bright and tasty Southern cafe-style food and good coffee to its neck of Humboldt Park, much to the great pleasure of neighbors. Now, not only is it possible to sit in a restaurant (previously unavailable for a several block radius), shrimp and grits can acquired, and during brunch, no less! Ah, may the tentacles of good food smoosh their way into every nook and cranny of Chicago. Wait, do tentacles smoosh? Only when something goes terribly awry with your octopus ceviche.

Star-Chef Mexican, a Bucktown Bistro (With Bacon), and a West Humboldt Park Hub [Reader]

Mexx Kitchen At The Whiskey Bar [MenuPages]
CJ's Eatery [MenuPages]
CJ's Eatery [Official Site]

FYI: Signs Of The Apocalypse

• Will we be able to feed ourselves in 50 years? [Guardian]
• US farm income up almost 50% this year [Tribune]
• Ethanol prices fall as supply grows [Tribune]
• In New Zealand, the importance of debunking food miles [NZ Herald]
• Cambodia to get its first fast food outlet (it's a KFC) [Forbes]

August 30, 2007

Viewing Pleasure: Vegetarian Pizza @ John Barleycorn

barleycorn pizza.jpg


Anything beautifully photographed by Zesmerelda looks delicious at first, but on careful visual analysis, we can detect the dooming flaw of this $12 fresh tomato and basil pizza from John Barleycorn.

Do you know what it is? No, it's not the industrial-looking tomatoes...although they could probably stand to be heirloom, and cooked a little for good measure.

The main culprit, in this case, is the crust. Most of it's obscured, but what we can see is distressingly, uniformly, blond. Know what that means? It hasn't been cooked at a high enough temperature, and it's not crispy. It may even be stale instead of doughy, since it's so smooth. Don't let the brown spots on the lower right fool you; that's just drippy cheese.

Maybe this is to be expected from a bar, but why can't everything be delicious, everywhere, all the time? Sigh.

John Barleycorn [MenuPages]
John Barleycorn [Official Site]

[Photo: Zesmerelda/flickr]

Wanna Go Green? Try Vegetarianism

Yesterday, the NYTimes published an inevitable article entitled Trying to Connect the Dinner Plate to Climate Change, burying it in the Media & Advertising quadrant of the Business section. The piece was basically about how vegetarian/vegan and animal rights groups are now using the environmental unfriendliness of carnivorism to advance their agenda. The article points out that "livestock business generates more greenhouse gas emissions than all forms of transportation combined," but goes on to emphasize the extent to which this is really a fringe effort on the part of these activists.

But something important is implied and never stated, and we want to correct that omission. Namely, the reason why this is so fringe, and will remain so no matter how trendy the Green Revolution gets, is that people would ultimately rather have civilization cease to exist than to give up meat. It's true, even though you could probably never get anyone to admit it. Meat-eating is pretty central to most of the world's population, and the marginal benefit of giving up meat for environmental reasons is far too slight, even for people who have a grasp of the issues, to overcome our lust for flesh. The only way humanity would ever give up meat is if there were a catastrophic animal die-off directly caused by environmental degradation, and even then, only maybe.

We don't even think organic gets you off the hook in this case, because it still takes a hell of a lot more resources to raise a calorie of organic animal than a calorie of organic vegetable.

That said, as the costs of husbandry increase due to land values, transport costs, feed prices and the like, market forces will probably decrease global meat consumption. But we can't see this happening any other way.

Do you think we have too dim a view of human nature? Are we ignoring the virtues of sustainable agriculture? Write in and let the world know.

Trying to Connect the Dinner Plate to Climate Change [NYTimes]

Tabulating The Tribune: Blue Nile & Listmania!

For better or worse, the two main reviews in this week's Tribune are for suburban restaurants - Cooper's Hawk in Orland Park, which has great wine flights and might be opening a location in the South Loop, and Trattoria 225, the rustic Italian in Oak Park.

blue nile.jpg Back in town, Monica Eng has a review of Blue Nile, the Ethiopian hot spot (Ziggy Marley's been there!) in a Rogers Park strip mall. Since every Ethiopian restaurant in America serves essentially the same things, it would be enough to say that Eng largely enjoyed Blue Nile's rendition of the cuisine, save for the kitfo. If you've never had Ethiopian before or are sick of the Clark St options, this would be a good introternative (we couldn't help ourselves).

But we promised lists, and lists you shall have. The first one is of bars, with informative one-liners about their respective merits and demerits. The second is five thing you absolutely must do in these waning days of summer. Provided you live in the suburbs and have a car. Ahh!!

[Photo: Tissisat Falls on the Blue Nile in Ethiopia, ctsnow/flickr]

Tallying The TOC: OTOM & TABLE Fifty-Two

The two restaurants reviewed in today's TOC dining section, OTOM and TABLE fifty-two have a lot in common: they both serve variants of haute comfort food, they both overuse the majuscule, and they're both associated with large institutions (MOTO and Oprah, respectively). And in case the point wasn't already driven home enough, both reviews feature photos of mac and cheese! OTOM's appetizer portion features Andouille sausage and anise for $14, while TABLE's three cheese macaroni is $9 side.

Despite the similarities, the establishments have fairly divergent narratives. OTOM, as Heather Shouse reports, is drawing a high-yuppie crowd for its contemporarified comfort food, which can end up looking fairly dim next to the bright start of MOTO. In a slick setting with high prices, comfort food ought not be boring, but that seems to be an issue here. On the other hand, David Tamarkin finds TABLE to be attracting middle-aged Oprah starf*ckers who are missing the point of Art Smith's wonderfully rich, very well-prepared modern Southern food (although to be fair, the food here is also occasionally boring). OTOM seems to be the winner on atmosphere and decor, but TABLE has the edge on food.

Also:
A go-getting young chef talks about his new high-end suburban restaurant
Paramount Room, a new pub/gastropub (eye-roll) opening in River West
Farmers market blueberry honey combines two hot-right-now ingredients
Pops for Champagne has a peach bellini pitcher for $22

OTOM [MenuPages]
OTOM [Official Site]
TABLE fifty-two [MenuPages]
TABLE fifty-two [Official Site]

FYI: Can't Teach An Old Dog New Tricks

• Colo. organic dairy farm demoted to conventional [NYTimes]
• City council committee advances dogs-at-dinner bill [Tribune]
• More spinach contaminated with E. coli! [KOMOTV]
• This coffee can conflagration is not blowing over [Tribune]
• Stocks to buy: Asian food companies [IHT]

August 29, 2007

Noticing Newcity: The Gage, Regional Pizza, Indie Wine

Welcome to our bimonthly coverage of the Newcity Food & Drink section! No better time to start than now. We're figuring every fortnight (as opposed to every two months, technically possible given the wording), we will take a look at articles of interest from the previous two weeks and comment on them in our typical manner, because the name of the game is *inclusion*.

Yesterday's article, A Pie Worth the Drive by Michael Nagrant, is a rumination on...the lack of regional American pizza in Chicago? It's not entirely clear why this is - Nagrant seems to blame the fact that Chicago is full of job-seeking Midwesterns and not enough locals, but his ultimate quarry is a Sicilian pizza from his childhood Detroit. Is Nagrant upset that the migrants from flyover country didn't bring their pizza with them and he had to drive all the way to Michigan to get what he wants? We're having trouble pinpointing the thesis. Anyone who has a better grasp and wants to share it with the world, please feel free to write in.

cellar rat motto.jpg Last week, there were two articles. The first, by Jenny B. Davis, is about an indie wine store in Bucktown called Cellar Rat Wine Shop. Charming, right? It's run by indie musician Dean Schlabowske, who rails against the corporatization of aesthetics in all fields. All the wine in the store is from small and independent wineries, which Schlabowske believes to produce better and cheaper wine. That is a fine opinion to have!

The second article is Nagrant's review of The Gage, which he called "Mercury Falling (clever, right? Gage, gauge, etc.). Now, lots of people who've reviewed the gastropub before have really liked it, but Nagrant found that the tension between the comfortable neighborhood bar component and the fine dining component was hampering both. The drinks were too expensive, and the food and service weren't delivering what one expects at the price point. The good news? If either of these issues were addressed, the other could probably be forgiven.

[Photo: Cellar Rat's motto, which is also displayed in the front window]

And The Truth Comes Out: Baccala, One Last Time

Turns out, we spoke too soon and too late! Official confirmation of Baccala's closing came on Monday in the form of Heather Shouse's post on the TOC Blog. That means our report, above and beyond being entertaining and informative, was also out-of-date from the moment it was conceived! The repercussions of our ignorance of the TOC Blog post were exacerbated this morning when we linked to the Food Chain, incorrectly implying that they had been the first with definitive proof on the matter. Boy was our face red when we found out about our oversight!

An aside - oversight means:

1) An unintentional omission or mistake
2) Watchful care or management; supervision

So we could say..."our lack of oversight led to an oversight." And it would be true, to boot.

At any rate, while this doesn't have the historical profundity of, say, a Watergate, it was still worth sorting out the events and establishing a more accurate chronology of discovery and reporting. The most unfortunate part of the story is that Baccala's still closing this Saturday, which - and we think everyone can agree on this - sucks.

In the order in which they appeared:
Bye-bye Baccala [TOC Blog]
Closing?: Baccala [MP:C]
Last chance for lamb tongue [Food Chain]

Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]

Spying On The Sun-Times: Gelato, Grillable Breakfast, Tomatillos

tomatillo.jpg


Wow, you could combine all of those things into one hell of a delicious brunch! But let's not get ahead of ourselves - one theme at a time.

First, gelato. Basically, everything you need to know about the difference between gelato and ice cream can be summarized as follows:

1) Gelato contains less air than ice cream (making it denser)
2) Gelato is served 10 to 15 degrees warmer than ice cream (making it creamier)
3) Gelato has less butterfat than ice cream (making it lighter)

For those of you who've had gelato, that makes intuitive sense. For those of you who haven't, WTF?! Get yourself to Piccolo or something this instant! You can also find Ciao Bella, a childhood favorite of ours, in Whole Foods and at Fox & Obel (according to the article, Whole Foods also makes an in-house gelato).

Next up, grillable breakfast, or as Jennifer Olvera titles it, Breakfast B-Q. Sausage or steak, grilled and served with eggs, is fairly obvious. But have you given much thought to barbecued fruit? You should probably do your best to clean off meat gristle before you let that happen, though. Heaven on Seven owner Jimmy Bannos suggests grilling fresh figs with mascarpone, which sounds pretty amazing.

Finally, tomatillos - are your weekend guests ready for grilled tomatillo gelato at 9am? Maybe you need to get new friends, then. Actually, the one time we tried tomato gelato (tomatillos are tougher relatives of the tomato), it was pretty frightening. Better to use it in a fresh salsa, or, in fact, grilled works quite nicely too.

[Photo: tomatillos, denaid/flickr>]

Closing!: Baccala

Looks like an actual reporter did some actual reporting - Mike Sula found out from the man himself (Bubala) that Baccala is closing this Saturday. Apparently, Bubala wrote (as an explanation for the restaurant's failure to attract a steady clientele), "It seemed like the majority of the customers were really looking for meatballs and red sauce, eggplant parmesan, and fried calamari." Ouch!

Although to be fair, there are a lot of restaurants that serve pork belly and enough non-conventional Italian places to problematize that assertion - maybe people just weren't ready for the intersection thereof?

We think both the fatty meat and the regional Italian crazes still have a lot of life in them, if not, apparently, in the form of Baccala. Keep on trying, Mr. Bubala!

Last chance for lamb tongue [The Food Chain]

Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]

FYI: Groping For Technological Solutions

• Agrofuel doomsday scenario explored [Guardian]
• Taking a long, hard look at Kansas City BBQ [Tribune]
• Whole Foods finally buys Wild Oats [Forbes]
• Edible, antimicrobial film at your service [NYTimes]
• Speaking of, food safety stocks doing great! [MarketWatch]

August 28, 2007

Elsewhere In The Menuniverse: Mostly Rage, Some Tribute

• MP:SoFla reports on the attempted murder of a restaurateur, and an orange juice scandal involving the shady use of concentrate.

• MP:SF shares a pet peeve about the pitiful practice of upselling, and decries a five-and-a-half-fold rent increase for a mom-and-pop restaurant.

• MP:B is on the fast food beat, "celebrating" the 40th birthday of the Big Mac and musing about the taste of a trans fat-free Dunkin' Donut.

• MP:P notes an impending "Hottest Chef" competition, and sheds some light on Philly's new hot trend, vegetarian cheesesteaks.

Closing?: Baccala

We had been concerned by a flurry of chatter about Baccala's potential demise, mostly stoked by a series of sightings of the restaurant half-empty (optimists would say half-full?) during peak hours. Early signs of trouble were on Yelp:

• "We happened to be dining at what must be an unusual hour for this neighborhood because when we walked in, we seemed to have startled the staff." - Francis K., 7/20/07
• "Walking in, it was a slow night. Only a handful of tables were taken..." - Tony Q., 6/8/07
• "We went on a slow night...and my, the restaurant wasn't even half full at 7:30 pm." - Lindley E., 5/3/07

baccala pork belly.jpg The situation really started coming to a head in the past few weeks on LTHForum. First, CTB started a thread called "Baccala-Is it on it's last Porcine legs?," bearing familiar bad news: "We arrived a little before 9pm and the place was about 25% filled." Subsequent commenters talked about how both the food and service had been going downhill for months (remember, this was a top-reviewed restaurant when it opened at the end of March).

Finally, this past Friday, a second thread hit LTHForum, entitled "Baccala's Closing." User Mitch Cumstein (we Googled and we think he's for real, despite the name) reported the following:
It's true, many may have seen it on their radar, but this weekend is the last for the offshoot of timo, and all its pork filled goodness. And no I will not be working there this weekend, so this is not a shill, but rather a suggestion to go get a pork belly with smoked gouda risotto tonight or tomorrow before they are gone. I truly enjoyed the food there, it made serving it to everyone very honest and easy. Although things were inconsistant in the foh at the end, I think that losing Scylla and Baccala is a terrific blow to a neighborhood whose food options are mediocre at best. I feel bad being the bearer of bad news, but it is better than letting it go without it's goodbye's.
and everyone on LTH was sad about it. Maybe the neighborhood wasn't ready for that much porky goodness? they mused.

But we're not entirely convinced that Baccala is closing. Their website is reporting current news (for example, John Bubala did some sort of Garden Chef thing on Sunday), and their voicemail talks about taking reservations. We will find out definitively tomorrow at 6pm when the restaurant opens for the week; we're hoping for the best, but fearing the worst.

Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]

Baccala [Yelp]
Baccala-Is it on it's last Porcine legs? [LTHForum]
Baccala's Closing [LTHForum]

[Photo: pork belly, screencapped from Metromix]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Un-Thai Me This Instant!

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are five of interest.

tac quick crab.jpg


A review we got in this morning for Eat First from "Chris" made us chuckle:
For a city lacking in cheep and decent Chinese food Eat First stands out for great hangover takeout. Calling for pickup is the way to go, as the food is generally ready for you by the time you walk over there. 'Cause secretly we're all sick of Thai.
That may be, but people are still putting on a good show about it. Around 10% of the reviews we get each week are for Thai restaurants, and they're usually pretty favorable. This week, for example:

Sweet Basil is "wonderful. The people that work there are as nice as can be. I was at a table of "inquisitive" eaters, and our waitress was both patient and knowledgeable. It's cheap, has a great menu, and the service is unbeatable. 5 stars across the board."

Tac Quick, "Simply put... this is the best thai food in town."

Thai Wild Ginger Restaurant had a customer who wrote "the last couple years I have spent time on and off living in Thailand. When I came back to Chicago I had to find a good thai place. Didn't have to look far, this place is great. Order for carryout and it will be done in 10. The staff is very nice too!"

• And at Thong Thai, "I have been a customer for years, prior to this location. The owner is pleasant and the food is wonderful! An exceptional value for the price."

Chicago's love affair with ubiquitous and tasty Thai food (we count roughly 108 restaurants) is not likely to end any time soon. Trust us - if/when you ever leave the city for an extended period, you will miss that feature of the Chicago foodscape much more acutely than you'd imagine. Chicago's Thai dominance should not be taken for granted! Support both the city's top places and your local, because you can never have too much of a good thing.

[Photo: An example of stellar Thai food from TAC Quick, ramonpublius/flickr]

Finally On MenuPages: Chalkboard

Hey, guess what? It turns out that Chalkboard, the haute American comfort food restaurant that opened in Lincoln Square at the end of last year to fairly rave reviews, doesn't offer its menu exclusively via chalkboard, as we had always assumed. It was part of all their first press releases, how the menu will be presented on chalkboard to reflect the seasonal-local-variable nature of the cooking and to create a quainter, more communal atmosphere. But these days, they offer a paper menu in the restaurant, which means that we can offer you the menu electronically. Everybody wins!

And what a menu it is, full of hearty, high-end ingredients and folksy, self-referential commentary that don't always make literal sense. For example, the wild caught lump crab salad with mustards, lemon, brioche, and "any local greens I can find" ($11; quotes added) is introduced by the following: "All too often I find that the creative mind, ends up too creative...Hence destroying the initial idea. Ladies and Gentleman, I present to you the Chalkboard crab salad." Now, what the hell does that mean? Maybe that chef and owner Gilbert Langlois had spent weeks tinkering with a crab salad recipe, adding ingredients here and there until it was an unwieldy, indistinct monstrosity of a thing, and he realized in an epiphany that he needed to scale it back to the essence of the crab, supported - but not overwhelmed - only by a few carefully edited accompaniments. Langlois wants us to share in his creative process, so our experience eating the crab salad is as intellectual as it is visceral. Or maybe he's just crazy?

Yes, definitely that second thing. His salad obsession is spelled out in no uncertain terms in the description of his blue fin tuna sashimi Cobb salad with nitrate free Caw Caw Farm bacon, tomato, lettuces, avocado and Maytag blue cheese ($24), which is: "I can help it, I'm completely addicted to finding the perfect Cobb salad. The balance between the bacon the lettuce and tomato compels me." But we can't really blame the guy for wanting to bombard his customers with his bloodlust for food. When he says, about his cast iron skillet pork tenderloin with apple cider creamed corn and fingerling potato-celery salad ($24), "what's better than a lovely piece of pork seared crispy in a well seasoned cast iron skillet," it's a perfectly valid question whose implied answer - "nothing" - is not unreasonable.

We admire the passion, and it seems like lay diners and critics alike admire the end product. We're happy to finally have Chalkboard's crazy menu on the site.

Down-Home Barbecue and Upscale Comfort Food [Bergquist/Reader]
Lincoln Square's upscale-casual eatery earns high marks [Vettel/Metromix]

Chalkboard [MenuPages]

FYI: Ignorance Is A Full Plate

• Many of our crops are mutated through irradiation [NYTimes]
• Folgers vs Maxwell smackdown over container design [Tribune]
• Hijiki contains arsenic, but not enough to kill you [NYTimes]
• Are Gordon Ramsay's restaurants slipping in quality? [FT]
• Sugar beets are the new sugar cane in the biofuel world [Forbes]

August 27, 2007

Update: The Violet Hour Is Ongoing!

And you thought it was safe to have a non-artisanal cocktail again! The Violet Hour media blitz continues apace, far outstripping the list we assembled on Friday.

Today's additions fall into two categories - articles by Michael Nagrant, and blog posts by Mike Sula (who wrote the Reader review from which our interest stems). In what must have been an incredibly fecund week, Nagrant wrote:

1) Bring on the bitters for the Tribune on August 15th, about cocktail bitters
2) Classing Up Cocktail Hour for Centerstage on August 19th, interviewing Toby Maloney
3) Taking a Walk on the Southside for Serious Eats on August 22nd, about that particular cocktail

And Sula has a series on The Food Chain over virtually the same period, entitled "Cocktail Minute with Toby Maloney." Each one comes complete with a video showing Mr. Maloney making the cocktail in question:

1) The Dark & Stormy (rum with lime and ginger)
2) The Southside (gin, lime, mint, bitters)
3) The Maloney Negroni (gin, Campari, vermouth, bitters)
4) The Iron Cross (basically a pisco sour)

Wow, we are impressed by all this press! Bottoms up.

Blog Reviews: Week Of Violent Thunderstorms

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• So far, the reactions to Bluebird Bistro has been fairly positive, with reviewers enjoying the low key atmosphere and reasonably priced food and drink [Food Chain]

• Perennial brunch hot spot The Bongo Room may have plenty of sweet dishes to satisfy a small child, but the long lines and lack of space make this a poor choice for Junior [Chicagoist]

chicago thunderstorm.jpg • In the theater district, Custom House turned out a decent prix fixe, although the seafood this reviewer got was not the restaurant's strong point [Chicago Foodies]

• A new River North coffee shop, Cyberia Cafe, serves Intelligentsia coffee and wireless internet [Drive-Thru]

• If you can avoid the douchebaggy clientèle, English has some decent drinks and a rather enjoyable British rendition of French fries [Chicagoist]

• Pretty good North Side Chinese food at Friendship Chinese Restaurant is pricey but not greasy [Chicagoist]

• A flight of city-specific hot dogs is available at Jake Melnick's Corner Tap (the Chicago version is said to be the best, shockingly) [The Stew]

• An epically unhealthy salad and completely delicious at La Tache comes with lardons and a poached egg, and is served over frites! [Nibble & Kibble]

• Homaru Cantu continues to knock it out of the park at Moto, which was recently serving 16-hour octopus and baked beans in the form of cold noodles. The menu tasted like corn chowder [Chicagoist]

• While Uptown Vietnamese diner Pho Hoa specializes in its namesake pho, the BBQ ribs are not to be missed [Big Sweet Tooth]

• Great fries and Polishes at 24HR Susie's Drive Thru in Irving Park, but the burgers are white-bread pedestrian [Chicago Burger Project]

• Beverly institution Top Notch Beefburger is frequently named among the best burger joints in Chicago, and this review does not disagree with that assessment [Chicagoist]

[Photo: taken last week near Logan Square by eight double/flickr]

Finally On MenuPages: Soul Vegetarian East!

We've been fighting the good fight for Soul Vegetarian East's menu since MenuPages Chicago came online around 18 months ago, a project that takes on new urgency every time SVE is mentioned by a Chicago food media outlet. soulveg-carrot.jpg So far as we can tell, this has happened three times over the summer, most recently in a review on Drive-Thru. People seem to constantly be discovering its existence, what with its out-of-the-way location, semi-obscure cuisine, and fringy religious ties, but everyone who makes the trip down to 75th Street (and writes about it) seems to enjoy what SVE has to offer.

The entire menu of sandwiches, salads, sides and entree plates is vegan, and represents a heterogeneous tradition of meatless cuisines: there's some Southern-style dishes (Greens & Cornbread, $5.50), some Asian (Stir-Fried Tofu served with brown rice, $6.50), some Mediterranean (Veggie Gyro, $5.75), plus a dash of cult appeal (the Prince Elkannonn (Garvey) Burger - $5.50 - seems to reference an unGoogleable religious alias of Marcus Garvey?). All this sounds somewhat dreary on paper, but the food is bursting with color and flavor, and is generally light and healthy (except for all the fried stuff). This carrot burger is representative; check out the Drive-Thru post for a more extensive photo gallery.

Allow us to quote ourselves on the raison d'être of the restaurant:
[Soul Vegetarian East's] vegan cuisine is inspired by owner Prince Asiel Ben-Israel's religious beliefs. He and his wife Yohanna are African Hebrew Israelites, one of the purported "lost tribes" of Israel (for a gross oversimplification, think of it as a Jewish version of Rastafarianism), and among the Biblical passages they take seriously, one from Genesis stands out in informing their dietary choices: "God also said: 'See, I give you every seed-bearing plant all over the earth and every tree that has seed-bearing fruit on it to be your food." There's plenty of stuff in the Bible about eating animals, too, but whatever - Soul Veg's offerings are a hell of a lot healthier than standard soul food fare, but similarly spiced and entirely enjoyable. Good for the Earth, good for the body, good for the soul, and all that jazz.
Finally, we should point out, per Drive-Thru, that SVE's wraps are available for take out at the Barnes and Noble at State and Jackson in the Loop, but we think you shouldn't deny yourself the trip to Greater Grand Crossing for the full experience.

Soul Veg: Down Home Soul Food all made Vegan. [Drive-Thru]
Soul Vegetarian East [MenuPages]
Soul Vegetarian East [Official Site]

[Photo: Carrot burger from SVE, courtesy of PJ Chmiel's Vegan in Chicago]

FYI: Making Concessions To Reality

• Dunkin Donuts to give up trans fats, core values [Tribune]
• Zut alors! Baguette prices to rise in France on wheat crunch [FT]
• Dark chocolate sales skyrocket on taste & nutrition [Tribune]
• Does Hardee's have the best fast food burger? [CNN]
• How Indonesians get their kids to eat vegetables [Jakarta Post]

August 24, 2007

The Cornstarch Is Angry!


We can only imagine what this thing talks about at the Council of Corn Creatures' monthly meeting: "food and fuel? Now they've gone too far - we attack the humans at dawn!" The easiest way to kill them is...turn off your vibrating plate. Consider yourselves prepared. Have a good weekend!

[YouTube: cornstarch lifeform 80Hz by shep59 via Dark Roasted Blend]

Foie Gras At Alinea, Now And Forever

Alinea Foie Gras.JPG

Two days ago, we marked the one year anniversary of the foie gras ban by noting, among other things, that Alinea had taken their Foie Gras with spicy cinnamon and apple pâte de fruit off their menu. Recently, we mean - only two weeks earlier, that item was listed on their online Tour menu. We were alerted to this by friend-of-the-blog Diana, who was paying extra close attention as she had an upcoming reservation to dine at the restaurant.

Yesterday, we were inundated by two pieces of great news:

1) Grant Achatz is "feeling great" and cooking up a storm after his recent round of drug therapy!
2) Grant Achatz is still serving foie gras!

And today, we will prove all this to you, reader, after the jump (the above photo is a clue)

The photo is, of course, of Foie Gras with spicy cinnamon and apple pâte de fruit, as served to Diana herself on Wednesday night. Alinea has nothing to worry about - who would ever guess that was foie gras! Looks like a meringue of some sort to us. Be that as it may, what was off the menu is clearly back on, albeit not on the website. Right now, Alinea is posting their Tour menu from August 3rd:

Alinea 8-03.jpg


Diana sent us her menu from August 22nd, which not only has the foie (enboxed), but also a host of wine pairings:

alinea tour actual.jpg


Since the menus aren't from the same day, it's hard to know exactly what to make of this. We continue to believe that it is possible (and in Alinea's case, condonable) to offer foie gras on a tasting menu without technically selling it, a position that the City of Chicago has seemingly more or less signed on to. Nevertheless, the machinations are fascinating.

Special thanks to Diana, without whom this report would have been entirely impossible.

Alinea's Achatz is in the kitchen and 'feeling great' after first round of chemotherapy [The Stew]
Finding foie gras [Tribune]
Alinea [MenuPages]
Alinea [Official Site]

[Photos: the foie gras and 8/22 menu are from Diana, and the 8/3 menu is from Alinea]

Reiterating The Reader: The Violet Hour

violet hour.jpg

Mike Sula has an extensive profile on mixologist-proprietors Toby Maloney and Jason Cott of The Violet Hour, the hot Wicker Park high-end cocktail lounge. Highlights:

1) Maloney grew up in a log cabin
2) Avec sous chef Justin Large designed the snack menu
3) Their "Blue Ridge Manhattan" was inspired by a pulled pork sandwich and is made from Laphroaig scotch, rye, vermouth, and hickory-infused peach bitters
4) Cott and Maloney met bartending at Eugene in New York. Fact: Eugene is in the same building as MenuPages' New York headquarters!

For the sake of Total Knowledge™, here are links to basically everything that's been written about TVH in local media, starting with Mr. Sula's blog post from four weeks ago on The Food Chain:

Waiting for the Hour [Food Chain]
Hush Hour [TOC]
The Violet Hour [Centerstage]
The Hour of hush and wonder [Metromix]
Violet Hour [Yelp]
The Violet Hour [LTHForum]

And, of course, Cocktail Connoisseur: The Violet Hour's Toby Maloney [Reader]

[Photo: some cocktails at TVH, captured semi-surreptitiously by appaloosa/flickr]

It Rained On Pepe's Parade

thunderstorm.jpg

Yesterday, we speculated about who, exactly, would choose to attend Pepe's 40th birthday party, entitled "Salsa Under the Stars," in Hickory Hills. Turns out, nobody! We got an email this morning telling us that the party has been canceled by dint of the storms, and that we would be informed of the rain date in the near future (did you see that we predicted this might happen?). We'll keep you posted, of course, because everyone deserves a second chance.

[Photo: a thunderstorm (but not the thunderstorm), pingnews.com/flickr]

FYI: You're Not Entitled To Your Opinion

• Restaurant employee naming conventions confound [Tribune]
• Burger King staves off obsolescence [NYTimes]
• Meanwhile, the Big Mac turns 40 [Forbes]
• All legal barriers removed in Whole Foods merger bid [BBCNews]
• "Citizen activism" backs CARES decision to reject US funds [LATimes]

August 23, 2007

People Love Expensive Forest Floor Foodstuffs

ginseng02.jpg The NYTimes excels at finding a story where none exists. Case in point: this article on the wild ginseng hunters of South Korea. Apparently, the root can command upwards of $130,000 a pound, which is like, more than gold times cocaine. What this reminds us of is the black truffles of southern Europe, although the Koreans aren't able to use special pigs to sniff out the plant. Also, the ginseng isn't intended to be shaved over pasta, oh no - either one makes tea, or more likely, gives it as a gift to connote power and influence. Neither one is worth it!

Ah, the Tonic of Ginseng! Especially a $65,000 Sprig! [NYTimes]

[Photo: ginseng is kinda gross-looking, WPR]

Tie Me Up, Tie Me Down, TOC: Il Fiasco & CJ's Eatery

It's interesting that Il Fiasco and CJ's Eatery garnered the same review score of three out of six in this week's TOC. tuberose.jpg David Tamarkin's review of the former gropes to find something nice to say about this highly inconsistent Andersonville Italian, while Heather Shouse's write-up of the latter is an upbeat little ditty, almost to the tune of "Save this restaurant." Clearly, these two threes were not created equal. Because how could any scale capture the nuances of expectation and remain consistent between restaurants with vastly different missions? Tamarkin had high standards for Il Fiasco, we'd imagine, because the space, neighborhood, and chef would all suggest a much better experience. Shouse was (probably) happy to champion a nice little cafe in a neighborhood that is sorely lacking in the category. Given all these motivations, what is a three supposed to mean? We don't know, but we're equally complicit in quantifying dining experiences, so we'll let it go (for now).

In other news:
Irving Park mania! A roundup of 10 hot spots in an overlooked neighborhood
Barramundi so hot right now at Bonsoiree
Tips on how to get into booked restaurants. Our advice? Dress up as a health inspector
Tuberoses are in season - they're pretty, and you can eat them in a pinch

[Photo: the prettiest tuberose on flickr, erika yoshida]

Trusting The Tribune: Hot Spot, Niu, Water, College Dining

Wow, is the Tribune food section packed today! There's so much material that we're going straight to the hyperlinked bullets:

Phil Vettel tears the Greenstapo a new one, saying "I'm a little uncomfortable with the recent characterization of bottled water as the Scourge of the Planet." Why? Because 1) there aren't enough public water dispensaries 2) soda is basically just bottled water plus corn syrup, and people will drink that if bottled water gets expensive through taxes or whatnot. Maybe things would be less horrible if there was a refund for recycling water bottles similar to the one that exists for soda bottles?

div01.jpg Monica Eng has a roundup of inexpensive restaurants that feature locally sourced ingredients, all this in preparation for next month's "Localvore Challenge."

Kevin Pang sneaks into the Wheaton College cafeteria, ranked 3rd in campus food by Princeton Review, and finds that the grub is actually pretty decent, with a lot of the food actually being cooked in-house. We believe a football player that KPang interviewed who opined, "For cafeteria food, it's awesome." (n.b. our alma mater, University of Chicago, did not bring it in this department)

Donna Pierce enjoyed Logan Square breakfast/brunch locale Hot Spot up to a point, which can be summarized by their use of mealy tomatoes in tomato high season. Shame!

Trine Tsouderos finds Niu to be reasonably enjoyable for fusion-y sushi and an asset for the neighborhood

Monica Eng is back with another roundup, this one on college campus coffee canteens. We maligned the U of C's cafeteria offerings a few paragraphs ago, but we have to concur with Ms. Eng that the Div School coffee shop (a.k.a. Grounds of Being a.k.a. Where God drinks coffee) is pretty good.

[Photo: The Div School coffee shop's official t-shirt, Phoenix/UChicago]

Imbibing: It's Pepe's 40th Birthday, And You Are All Invited!

Remember when we told you about the special appetizers that Pepe's had developed for its 40th anniversary? Well, turns out that was only the tip of the iceberg. The majority of the giant mass of snow and frozen water will take the form of a birthday bash tonight on the grounds of the Hickory Hills Pepe's at 8128 W 95th St.

pepe_hat.gif It's called "Salsa Under the Stars," which is both frightening and not bloody likely - it's forecast to be cloudy with occasional thunderstorms this evening. But anyway, the party is free to the public from 6:30pm-10pm, and involves food from the restaurant, Corona beer, and music courtesy of the Mambo Allstars (to facilitate the salsa-ing). Pepe's is also giving away a vacation to Mexico, and if that's not enough, WLS-AM's Jerry Agar will be broadcasting live from hoedown. AM radio!

We cannot even begin to speculate about what kind of crowd this party will draw, but it'll probably be funnier than television. ¡Feliz cumpleaños, Pepe!

Pepe's [Official Site]

[Photo: and if you squint, you can see Pepe himself!]

FYI: Just Trying To Help!

• China enacts quality control labeling for export [China Daily]
• N. Korea, which lost 10% of its farmland, accepts S. Korea food aid [Reuters]
• Prince Charles has written a book about his organic garden/farm [NYTimes]
• American almonds must now be pasteurized; raw foodists livid [SF Chronicle]
• Hot new kid trend: feeding (not eating) disorders [NYTimes]

August 22, 2007

As Mandated By the Pre-Nup

Our favorite headline of the day is "Bigamist Ordered to Give Pig and Buffalo," which rather sums up the article. A Borneo man took a second wife, a violation of the custom of his "indigenous community," so he was punished via livestock by the local Native Court. The first wife also got custody of the three kids, of equal or lesser value. They're gonna have one hell of a stew tonight!

Bigamist Ordered to Give Pig and Buffalo [NYTimes]

Updated: A curmudgeonly anthropologist friend of ours wrote, "cut the pop anthropology, please - this is a perfectly normal outcome in customary law. The pig and buffalo function not as food but as wealth." To which we say, duh, it was a joke. Because as everyone knows, buffalo makes a terrible stew meat.

Updated again: The C.A. responds: "I was just being a curmudgeon, not an anthropologist. I obviously have no idea what's going on in that village, and wouldn't want to go on the record as saying that 'food' and 'wealth' even represent a viable distinction there.

That part of Malaysia lies within what anthropologist Roy Wagner has called the 'Holographic Zone.' Much like an epistemological Bermuda Triangle, the Zone is where Euro-American notions of subjects and objects are especially prone to fall apart."

And soon it will be the "Palm Plantation Zone"!

Serving The Sun-Times: Baladoche, Kombucha, Heirloom Everything

heirloom tomatoes.jpg

One of the best parts of summer is upon us: everyone's on vacation, the temperature is slightly cooler, and heirloom produce is blanketing the farmers markets. Jennifer Olvera recommends through caution to the wind and buying the weird-looking vegetables and nightshades (i.e. tomatoes, eggplants, etc.), however unfamiliar you are with them. Most of this stuff is so fresh and flavorful that it can just be eaten raw (or follow one of these recipes. Incidentally, the NYTimes dining section also had a feature on what to do with heirloom tomatoes, which is worth checking out).

Sandy Thorn Clark has a glowing review of Baladoche, waxing poetic about the waffles' "crisp outside and steamy, moist inside," not to mention the scent that emanates from the Lakeview storefront. The best part of this review is a quote from owner Terry Mootoo on the habits of Cubs fans on game days:
"We suffer on days and nights with Cubs games. The groups of Cubs fans actually interfere with our business. We expected a different response," Mootoo says. "We have observed that one person controls each group of fans. If that person, be it he or she, stops to sample a waffle, they all do. But most of those in control walk right on buy, oblivious to the aroma, headed to a predesignated destination -- probably to drink.
Social Darwinism aside, maybe this means Baladoche should start serving booze?

Now for some quickies:

Photo exhibit of the restoration of New Orleans restaurants @ Kendall College
Kombucha poised to be newest stupid fad
Johnsonville smoked turkey sausage rather bland

[Photo: heirloom tomatoes at the Union Square farmers market in NYC, Lindsay Beyerstein/flickr]

FG Ban @ 1 Not So Ban-Like

Phil Vettel has followed up the article we mentioned this morning on the Foie Gras ban's first birthday with a piece in The Stew that covers much of the same material. stop foie gras.jpg Basically, while the ban is technically in force, restaurants have found loopholes like "giving away" FG as an accompaniment to some other, mysteriously overpriced dish, or simply on discreet request. This second option sounds like an invitation for a sting, but the accompaniment scheme apparently works. Vettel reports that the Health Department "concluded that [a restaurant doing this] was within the letter of the law."

One sentence in Vittel's articles, "but the words "foie gras" never grace the menu--or the bill," doesn't ring true. Why? Because in the last few weeks, we've come across (and reported) two examples of foie gras on menus, listed as such. It's worth noting that FG is no longer on Alinea's menu (it was a good run), but it still has a prominent spot on La Pomme Rouge's. We think it would be vastly overstating our influence to suggest that our publicization of Alinea's foie gras offering had any influence on it being taken off their menu, but nevertheless, we will continue to report any and all instances of the illicit engorged organ's appearance on menus.

Finding foie gras [Tribune]
Foie gras ban turns 1 [The Stew]
Alinea [MenuPages]
Alinea [Official Site]
La Pomme Rouge [MenuPages]
La Pomme Rouge [Official Site]

[Photo: we birthday'd up the mascot of Stop Foie Gras]

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