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January 31, 2008

Tick TOC: Buffalo Wings + Polar Opposite Reviews

misono ux 10.jpg

We are already so bored by the Super Bowl. Can we call it the Super Bowel? Because that's the typo we've been making all week and it makes us smirk every time. Since it involves food, every food section has to cover it, and because we have to cover every food section...well, let's just say we're having a Super Bowel movement as we speak.

Let us soldier on! Mike Nagrant has the lead article in this week's TOC on the best Buffalo wings in the city. It is hard to deny (even for us) that Buffalo wings go well with football, but where ought you get them this Sunday? Well, the winner is Twisted Spoke, whose wings are smoky, crispy and sweet. Also, we apologize for not properly capitalizing "Buffalo" in our post on Jake Melnick's Waiver Wings. Those upstate New Yorkers have quite a temper!

Oh man! David Tamarkin delivers a total hatchet job to Rustik, the new "modern comfort food" spot in Logan Square (what does this mean for the Tribune's Best Neighborhood Restaurant award!?) The only thing Tamarkin didn't hate was the cake at the end - and it's always a huge disappointment with the dessert is the highlight - cautioning "it would take more than cake to get the taste of this meal out of our mouths." Ouch and a half.

To balance things out, Heather Shouse loves every single little thing about Takashi Yagihashi's eponymous Takashi in Bucktown. The French-Japanese fusion spot has already vaunted itself into the pantheon of top Chicago restaurants - get there while you can still score a resy.

Quickies:

Sixteen, on the 16th floor of the emerging Trump Tower, is open (for breakfast) and has an interesting menu!
• Pssst hey you - ever had a real pickle? Tamarkin recommends McClure's
• Screw watching the Super Bowel at a bar - American Gladiators at the Globe Pub is much more fun and honest
• Chef Dean Zanella of 312 Chicago spills his guts about cow guts and The Boss

Takashi [MenuPages]
Takashi [Official Site]
Rustik [MenuPages]
Rustik [Official Site]

[Photo: Mr. Zanella's favorite knife, the Misono UX10, via JapaneseChefsKnife]

Trailheading The Tribune: Best Neighborhood Dining Award, Super Bowl

Wow-wee! Now that the Tribune At Play staff is back up to full strength with addition of Chris Borrelli, they've pushed out a whopper of an issue. Half of the day is devoted to that Best Neighborhood Dining award idea they've been plugging for a few weeks, and the other half is Super Bowl-type stuff. Let us discuss in that order.

Now we understand how and why the BND awards were timed to land today and next week's edition: the competition has been rebranded "Decision 2008," what with Super-Duper-Calafrajalisticexpialadocious Tuesday landing smack in the middle. After a nasty and exhausting early primary season, all but three neighborhoods have dropped out of the race - Lincoln Square, Logan Square, and downtown Forest Park. (An aside - not that politically diverse! We wonder how the political affiliations of neighborhoods map onto their respective dining scenes...actually, we have an idea, but we're not telling!)

The opening article introduces the "candidates," which are lightly anthropomorphized by the series' writers, Monica Eng, Trine Tsouderos, and Chris Borelli. Basically, Logan Square is hip and diverse, Forest Park is dependable and friendly, and Lincoln Square is high quality and stately.

After this introduction, each writer painstakingly explains why his or her neighborhood is best for dining using the tortured media of campaign speeches and platforms. Combined with the Tribune's notoriously poor website layout, it's very hard for the reader to follow what's going on. Not that this isn't a worthy exercise! Just an odd one. But okay. Forest Park: overview | restaurant listings. Lincoln Square: overview | restaurant listings. Logan Square: overview | restaurant listings. Finally, some voting instructions.

(For our part, you can check out the Menupages listings for Lincoln and Logan Squares, and we'll never make you choose between them. Forest Parkers, you're on your own.)

As for reviews, Phil Vettel completes the pentagram of reviews for Powerhouse, finding himself unexpectedly impressed by the food and atmosphere. If you're keeping score, Phil is in the pro-sweet-potato-doughnut camp. On Tablehopping, Chris Borelli likes the Korean fried chicken at Crisp (if not much else), while Glenn Jeffers enjoys the prosecco at Prosecco, a River North wine bar (note that both of these reviews were on the Stew in the past week; this is just their in-print dumping ground, not that we blame them one bit).

The only actually helpful new articles this week are about the Super Bowl. Chris Borelli theorizes that ordering pizza on Sunday is a losing proposition, so he investigates frozen options, especially ones of local extraction. Meanwhile, Karen Budell rounds up bar options for the big game. Or you could just eat sushi and watch opera DVDs, whatever.

Powerhouse Restaurant & Bar [MenuPages]
Powerhouse Restaurant & Bar [Official Site]
Crisp [MenuPages]
Crisp [Official Site]
Prosecco [MenuPages]
Prosecco [Official Site]

Shill Detection: The Mojita's Was Slamming!! (Slang For GREAT!!)

We have at least a modicum of sympathy for the owners of this Cuban restaurant in New York's East Harlem, since it's not the easiest area to open a new business. Much of that sympathy was squandered, however, by the ridiculous review they clearly left for themselves on our New York site:
shill.jpg I met with friends recently at this restaurant/bar and was
very much impressed with the ambiance, food and the
entertainment. The food was tastful and delicious, the
mojita's was slamming!! (slang for GREAT!!) and the
atmosphere was simply lively which included a live
band and great dancers. It's nice to know one doesn't
have to trek downtown to have some enjoyable FUN!!
I'll definitely make this place my new hangout!!
THUMBS UP to [REDACTED]!!
We want to highlight the snippet of the review that we used for the title of this post - it is impressive to have a spelling error, a possession vs. plural error, and a subject-verb agreement error in the space of four words. On the other hand, we love their in-line glossary, evincing their desperate attempt to cast as wide a net as possible with this shill. Also, "the food was tastful" doesn't even make any sense...oh we get it now! They meant tasty. But tasty and delicious are redundant; if they actually meant tasteful, would that mean it's well-chosen and sophisticated? We certainly doubt that possibility!

Hmm...we've derived more pleasure from cruelly picking apart this review than we ever could from eating there, which says something nasty about us, we fear. Oh well?

p.s. the spacing is weird because they used carriage returns. What can we tell you!

FYI: Getting What's Coming To You

• Super Bowl food and drink consumption hazardous to your health! [AP]
• Those moldering Sbux breakfast sandwiches? Gone, as sales weaken [Tribune]
• European chefs reeling at thought of using cloned meat [Guardian]
• Elderly people too stubborn to accept food stamps [Boston Globe]
• Kosher food taking off in quality-plagued China as Olympics approach [USAToday]

January 30, 2008

Sun-Times + NewCity + Tribune: We Super Bowl!

Apparently, there's a big event coming up this Sunday where lots of people eat and watch expensive commercials, and catch a little football in between. Bill Daley suggests Vietnamese chicken wings, the Sun-Times is touting a sour cream-apple pie and sangria, and Mike Nagrant thinks you should skip the game altogether and instead recommends a slew of en-bowled treats from all over the city.

Super Bowl Sunday is not the only holiday coming up; Donna Pierce has some fried oyster-based ideas for Fat Tuesday, and Denise O'Neal rounds up some Chinese New Year options. We will inevitably be hearing more about these eating holidays, but these articles are the first salvos.

As for the rest, in ten words apiece:

• Monica Eng visits Michael Ruhlman, food writer extraordinaire, in Cleveland [Tribune]

• Like cocoa? You should really be drinking quality hot chocolate [Sun-Times]

• Sandy Thorn Clark suggests where to get some around town [Sun-Times]

• George Washington Carver: not just peanuts and sweet potatoes [Tribune]

• Lisa Donovan investigates the high surface-to-volume ratio Edge Brownie Pan [Sun-Times]

• Dust off your old stereotypes about crock-pot cooking; it's fashionable now [Sun-Times]

• Welcome to Green Grocer Chicago, new West Town organic market [Sun-Times]

• Some good basic tips on chicken purchasing and preparation [Tribune]

• Or you can just buy the pre-made frozen variety, lazyass! [Tribune]

Ask MenuPages: What Is The Best Mexican Food On The North Side?

riques interior.jpg

After reading our round-up of Mexican restaurant reviews from last week where we unilaterally negated a reviewer's assertion that El Tapatio is "the best Mexican food on the Northside," reader b*schus wrote in to ask what, then, is the best Mexican food on the North Side?

This is a perfectly natural question, if one that's rather impossible to answer. Aside from everyone having different tastes and metrics about what constitutes the "best" in a restaurant, any claim of this restaurant or that being the "best" suffers from the claimant's certain lack of universal experience (and usually gravitas) to make such a statement. That said, it is possible to cobble together from across the internet a general consensus of what's good, and to that end, we've compiled a list of five North Side Mexican restaurant that are worthy of your attention. Of course, most of the best Mexican food in Chicago is on the Northwest and Southwest sides, but that's outside the scope of this post.

So in alphabetical order to keep things straight, our picks, with an accompanying MenuPages review:

El Famous Burrito: No one said it had to be authentic or luxurious to be good!
I have had many burritos in my time, and the gold standatd still remains this great local chain, El Famous Burrito. They are huge and meaty. My preference is a steak and pork combination with sour cream and and onions. If your're eating in, all orders come with tasty chips and salsa. This is one of the best values in Mexican food in Chicago

Los Nopales: Seems like this spot is really a cut above.
Forget your local taqueria slinging up greasy burritos, tacos, and nacho dinners. Los Nopales goes above and beyond what you normally find on every other corner of Chicago. They're cuisine is fresh, delicious, and a fantastic value. Sure, you can get burritos and tacos...but they are prepared beautifuly, often coming with several colorful sauces, whipped up in the kitchen that day. Otherwise, try some of the traditional dishes like the Skirt Steak special, pork tamales, or Pan fried tilapia in Garlic sauce. The staff is outlandishly friendly and genuine and the restaurant is charming and clean. A total gem.

Mayan Palace: Although this place gets high marks, it may simply be another El Tapatio-like margarita joint...
My friend brought me to this restaurant and I quickly fell in love with it. The food is great, well prepared, and quickly served. What I love the most however, are the margaritas. I highly recommend the jamaican flower margarita and if you go on Tuesday or Thursday you can get their house margaritas for half price! The service is excellent. The servers pretty much recognize my friend and I when we go and always make an effort to talk to us and make sure we are getting good service. The only downfall is when the patio isn't open; the space can be cramped, but after a few margaritas it doesn't really matter

Riques Regional Mexican Food: "Regional" means that some thought has been put into the cuisine - at least it's from a place
place to go for authentic, inexpensive Mexican food! Our favorite time to go is on Saturday nights, when they serve a four course meal (from a different state of Mexico each week) for only $20! Make sure to make a reservation, as it's usually packed!

Tepatulco: a Geno Bahena production that gets mixed reviews (and in our case, no reviews), but is still worthy of inclusion. Here's a recent review from Yelp:
Although the decor would be best suited in a 3 star restaraunt. Tepatulco's food belongs in a five star. We started off with the quac, although it was not my favorite it was damn good and a nice start to a meal that I can still taste (over a month later). For my entree I ordered the Carne Asada. This was the winner of the evening. It was absolutely phenomenal. Tender beef served with homemade tortillas, plantanes, rice and yummy beans. The boy ordered the grilled Salmon in green mole which was out of this world. He doesn't even like Salmon and ate every bit including the leftovers on my plate.
For desert we were talked into the chocolate lava cake, and like every chocolate lava cake this one was better then the last. yummy dark chocolate with gooeyness inside...yummm!
Oh and that Margarita was soooo good!

Of course, your mileage may vary.

[Photo: an interior shot of Riques by Nghiêm/flickr]

FYI: Two Sides Of The Same Coin

• Bush pushing for progressive foreign food aid policies (!) [AP]
• Infant malnutrition best treated with paste, not fortified flour [NYTimes]
• The most quintessentially, disgustingly American eating activity ever [NYTimes]
• Desperately poor Haitains reduced to eating mud cookies for survival [Telegraph]
• Organic food prices skyrocketing as demand far outstrips supply [CNN]
• Kraft revenues plunge due to increasing cost of supplies [MarketWatch]
• EU to standardize and simplify its food labeling procedures [Press Assoc.]
• Japan in an uproar over pesticide-laced dumplings from China [Reuters]
• As avocado consumption in U.S. rises, so too do Michoacan farmers [Tribune]
• Central Mexican hen laying gold-tinged green eggs! And they taste fine! [Yahoo]

January 29, 2008

Viewing Pleasure: Bacon Bloody Marys

Friend-of-the-blog Chris Freeberg is an inveterate bruncher. A few days ago, he informed us of his intentions to conquer Sepia, writing "I am heading over to Sepia brunch soon. I cannot go another Sunday without the bacon bloody...."

Nor should he! Last night, he sent us his review:
The drink tastes a bit like barbecue sauce.... The short rib hash was delicious, but greasy. The basket of donuts, and especially the short bread cakes with jam, were strong. Observed 1 friend adore her market inspired (sweet crab) eggs Benedict. While, another complained of a bland root vegetable omelet.

No wait, nice service, a bit like slipping into an old smoking jacket.
Lovely. Meanwhile, Time Out Chicago has a photo of Sepia's bacon Bloody Mary, but it's a tiny little thing. In order that you may revel in the true majesty of the drink, we've sussed out a trove of bacon Bloody Mary pics to share with you.

Wasabi Bloody Mary with bacon strip, lulife/flickr:

wasabi bloody mary with bacon.jpg

Bacon Bloody Mary at Tonic in Washington D.C., urbanbohemian/flickr:

tonic bloody mary.jpg

Bacon Bloody Mary poster, Kathryn Yu/flickr:

bacon bloody mary poster.jpg

Bacon Bloody Mary from somewhere in Boston, bs05442:

boston bacon bloody mary.jpg

Bacon Bloody Mary with High Life chaser at Comet in Milaukee, hownowjenbrown/flickr:

high life + bacon bloody mary.jpg

Bacon Bloody Marys, as served in Red Hook, Brooklyn, NY L7/flickr (p.s. amazing):

bacon bloody mary red hook.jpg


Meanwhile, Google is pretty adamant that the plural of Bloody Mary is Bloody Marys rather than Bloody Maries, by a margin of 180:1. We can't say we approve, but we'll go along with it.

Sepia [MenuPages]
Sepia [Official Site]
100 best things we ate and drank this year (in no particular order) (see item 78) [TOC]

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Mexican Restaurants

mcm chiles en nogada.jpg

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are four of interest.

What's notable about this set of Mexican restaurant reviews is how they get better as the week drags on:

• "Great deals and delicous tortas n sopes" by Christina on 1/22 for Bravo's Pizza Taqueria:
This place has wonderful pan pizzas with great deals on the coupons im only writtig about what i kno and there tortas ive ordered are great i recomend a sope de carne a pastor really versitille and delicious and only 2.50.
We approve of pizzeria/taquerias only marginally more than Thai/sushi. In such hybrid restaurants, it's impossible for both cuisines to be good and likely that neither are. But by all means, if you're in and around Hermosa, try their versatile sopes.

• "I love this place" by Amy on 1/23 for El Tapatio:
El Tapatio is the best Mexican food on the Northside. The food is yummy, the service is excellent, and the margaritas are strong! The food and drinks are a great value and I love the street side patio opened during the summer.
El Tapatio is not the best Mexican food on the Northside. On the other hand, every review its gotten has mentioned the drinks, so if you want to get plastered while surrounded by chips and salsa, El Tapatio is probably a good bet.

• "Solid Mexican food in Rogers Park" by Anonymous on 1/25 for Rocky's Tacos:
We stop here all the time on the way home to pick up dinner. It's always very fast, very fresh, and really tasty. Not the best Mexican food in the world, but I've enjoyed everything I've ordered... although I admit I'm a little afraid of the pork+chicken+pork+beef+cheese torta. Their tortas are huge, and you can get them even huger if you think you can handle it. I recommend this place for anybody in the 'hood looking for a good, cheap, fast meal.
We appreciate the honesty and middle-of-the-roadness of this review. Also, we can haz pork+chicken+pork+beef+cheese torta kthxbai?

• Prepare yourselves for a mother of a review entitled "Bring the book 'War and Peace' with you," left on 1/26 by Fortune Cookie for Mundial Cocina Mestiza:
My family went to Mundial last night for an early dinner (we arrived there at 5:30 p.m.) and will probably not go back there. Although the food was good, the overall lack of customer service to the patrons and length of time it took to get our food are not worth it. Arriving at 5:30 p.m., even on a Friday night, is still early, but still took forever to get our food.

Mundial is a B.Y.O.B. which not only stands for “Bring Your Own Beer” but also stands for the following:
- “Bring your own beverage” (in the 2+ hours we were there, not once did someone come by and fill our water glasses)
- “Bring your own book” (took over 25 minutes to get our appetizers and over 35 minutes to get our entrees. If you plan on going to the restaurant, bring some books to pass the time)
- “Bring your own blackberry” (same comment as above. Maybe if we had some books and our blackberrys, it would have distracted us from being frustrated at the length of time it took to get our food)
- “Bring your own bisquits” (as we were starving, from the length of time it took to get our appetizers and entrees, it would be best if you brought your own bisquits or a granola bar….the restaurant doesn’t give you anything (i.e. bread, etc) when you sit down)
- “Bring your own blanket” (was freezing in the restaurant. Had our down filled long coats on the entire 2 hours we were there)
I’m pretty patient when it comes to food (being an avid foodie), however, although Mundial’s food was good, it was not worth the length it time it took to get our food, the sub zero temperatures, the unbalanced speaker system, pricey (were 3 adults and a 3 year old: ordered 2 appetizers, and 3 entrees, and the bill was $100, with 15% tip, although I wanted to tip 10% but was vetoed), and that’s without any drinks) and the overall lack of customer service and attention to the patrons. I may be persuaded to go again, but only under one circumstance….that I be the first patron in the restaurant when it opens so I could get my food before I start looking at my dinner companion’s arm like it was a pork chop.
Now as clever as the conceit of this review is, we don't know if we can get outraged over $100 including tax and tip for four people, even if one of those people is a three year old. This person sounds pretty high-maintenance, and although we sympathize with having to entertain a toddler for two hours, we kind of don't. And also, if no one's refilling your water, you gotta ask. Better to be forceful than thirsty!

[Photo: chiles en nogada @ Mundial Cocina Mestiza via cal222/flickr]

IM Reviews: Alias - Won't Be Back | Title - Don't Bother

MPChicago says:
"Hostess is the worst bitch on the planet"
MPChicago says:
the worst bitch on the planet awards are going to be picketed by the WGA
MPBoston says:
heeeeee
MPChicago says:
so it's only going to be a newsconference
MPChicago says:
which is a shame bc those bitches on parade
MPChicago says:
are exactly what america needs right now

FYI: Fast Food For Fast Times

• It's Quiznos vs Subway's in battle over user-generated competitive ads [NYTimes]
• McD's same-store sales in US have stalled, to investor consternation [Tribune]
• Wendy's quixotically rebranding itself as "w-a-a-a-ay better than fast food." [MarketingDaily]
• How many more times do we need to be told that our ethanol policies are bad? [AP]
• Tyson CEO blames rising costs and falling profits on ethanol. For real. [Forbes]
• A run-down on the state of airline food today. We say, why even bother trying? [ABCNews]

January 28, 2008

Dish Focus: Waiver Wings @ Jake Melnick's Corner Tap

jake melnick's waiver wings.jpg

A few weeks ago, Jake Melnick's Corner Tap introduced a new menu item - extremely spicy buffalo wings made with Red Savina peppers. These peppers rate at 577,000 Scoville units, which Chicagoist helpfully points out is sixty times spicier than jalapeno. Since Jake Melnick's is run by Levy Restaurants, the press release about the wings was heavily circulated, even making Reuters (albeit as an "Oddly Enough" piece). Nevertheless, the interest of the Chicago wing community was piqued, and several of them have survived the experience to report back.

As part of the publicity stunt, patrons must sign a waiver before consuming the wings absolving the restaurant of liability for injury - hence the post title (borrowed from a clever Yelper). Actually the wings don't have an official name; when we called, they suggested asking for "super hot wings," which is dull. Anyway, obviously such a thing is almost certainly legally meaningless, as many of these waivers are, but performativity is the name of the game here. The deal is, you get ten of these wings for $11.95, and they come with sour cream and other heat reducers. Oh, and an alarm bell for summoning your waiter in case of emergency. In the event that you clean your plate, your picture will be placed on the wall in perpetuity, or at least until the next gimmick. Now, if it were easy, they'd have pictures littering up the joint. So what's the real deal?

An early report from LTHer yellow truffle is a good introduction:
The spicy wings looks like normal Buffalo wings, with more of an orange-ish glow, of the sauce, on the outside. These wings were breaded and then coated with the red savina pepper sauce. The aroma was slightly vinegary. Upon tasting the wings, the mouth and lips started to feel the effects of the heat. These were spicy, indeed. And tasty as well. The heat of the peppers was not overpowering that you could not taste the wings, which was nicely prepared.

Sitting there chomping on the wings, one of the staff came over and asked us if we wanted our picture taken (with a Polaroid), but we declined. There was also a waiver that we had to sign that emphatically stated that these wings were spicy and that we could not take legal action against them - reading it was extremely humorous. There is also an option to order a cooling tray, which contained a scoop of vanilla ice cream, double shot of whole milk, a large smear of sour cream, half a slice of toast, and a slice of orange. I suggest ordering this, even if you don't need it, because it is free. This caused us not to get dessert.

Unlike the suicide wings at the Anchor Bar (the originator of the Buffalo Wings), these were easily edible. Anchor Bar's wings are, IMHO, about 20% spicier than Jake Melnick's.
Yes, Anchor Bar in Buffalo, NY, has a lot to prove. Could they really let the title of "world's hottest wings" pass through their fingers? But lo: the next respondent was less sanguine:
So we went to Jake Melnick's last night. I ordered the Hot Wings. A table next to ours had also ordered the wings - you could tell because they were wearing the Fire Fighter hats and they were crying. The boyfriend was able to eat just one and his girlfriend managed 3. I wasn't too scared yet.

I signed the waiver saying I would not sue if I died. The wings came and I took my first bite - it was seriously hot that even the fumes almost did me in. It was going to be tough. After the second wing I started to lose feeling in my legs. After a few more I could not talk nor feel my tongue or lips but I was nearing halfway there - there were 10 wings. I also refused to ring the bell.

My friend, Barry took a bite to see how hot they were and he nearly died. He literally drank 5 glasses of water (first mistake) and then could not sit still for the next 10 minutes walking around the restaurant putting napkins to his tongue. I took the rest of his wing back.

The peppers and the pepper extract really were doing funny things to my body and mind - things got pretty blurry and hazy. My arms were somewhat numb and the end of my fingers were all tingly. My hearing started to go and ironically I started to get freezing cold - even though it was very warm in the restaurant.

Barry's wife begged for me to give in. There was no way I was going to. I rang the bell so my son could drink the milk and eat the ice cream which was supposed to cool my mouth down. I finished the basket - all ten. I got my picture taken. It was worth it.
That review, by Snark, was accompanied by the picture of the wings at the top of the post (thanks, Snark!) Snark continued his reporting by noting that "it was faily unreal, if that makes sense. The whole atmosphere/environment became different, muffled -almost as if under a drug - which also caused immense pain. It was not a pleasurable experience although got a little better toward the middle and end when you could not feel anything nor did you much care, really."

Wow, sounds fun! But really, why do people do this? Is it the capsaicin high? Testing one's ability to withstand pain? Machismo, plain and simple? Yes, yes and yes. Since it's unlikely that capsaicin causes physical damage when consumed (the pain is real, but it's a false stimulus), those with insensitive mucus membranes are urged to give in to the marketing ploy. If nothing else, you get a free cooling tray!

Jake Melnick's Corner Tap [MenuPages]
Jake Melnick's Corner Tap [Official Site]
Scoville Scale [Wikipedia]
Putting the Hot Back in Hot Wings [Chicagoist]
Levy Restaurants [Official Site]
Snacking on a wing and a prayer [Reuters]
I got the "waiver" wings at Jake Melnick's [Yelp]
Jake Melnick's Hot wings [LTHForum]
Anchor Bar [Official Site]
Capsaicin [Wikipedia]

[Photo: "Pictures from Bill: Hot Wings!" on Shutterfly]

Blog Reviews: Week Of Colllllld!

frozen lake michigan.jpg

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• Who in Pilsen doesn't like a good tostada? Get one at Azteca, which boasts an Internet-enabled jukebox [Chicagoist]

• Earning a double review this week, Crisp is a new trendy Korean restaurant in Wrigleyville especially noted for its fried chicken, which may well be the best Asian fried chicken in the city. Rejoice! [The Stew & Hungry Mag]

• Totally cool-sounding new gastropub The Filthy Libertine wises up Lincoln Park with chef-driven industry nights (be on the lookout for Dale Levitski next Monday) [TOC Blog]

• Aside from donating their profits toward feeding the hungry, First Slice Cafe makes a delicious, messy vegetarian sandwich [Chicagoist]

• The fact that it's really easy to like wine bars is working heavily in the favor of Prosecco, a likeable River North wine bar [The Stew]

• Finding decent Americanized Chinese delivery can be difficult, so put Wing Hoe on your short list if you're in the neighborhood [Chicago Foodies]

• Korean-style froyo (i.e. Pinkberry) to debut at Wow Bao, which always likes to stay on top of Asian-food-trends-in-America [TOC Blog]

[Photo: Lake Michigan, frozen, gdaph/flickr]

FYI: They're Pulling A Slow One On Us

• The part about how eating meat is destroying the environment [NYTimes]
• OMG we're killing our children with sodium or something! [Guardian]
• New Food Network show sounds like old Food Network shows [CNN]
• Despite recession (yes!), McD money machine soldiers on [Tribune]
• Also, McD to start awarding high school equiv. diplomas in UK [AFP]

January 25, 2008

Viewing Pleasure: Three-Cheese Macaroni @ Table Fifty-Two

table fifty-two mac+cheese.jpg

We love this furtive shot of "Three-Cheese Macaroni," a $9 side during lunch and dinner at TABLE fifty-two. We've written a lot about TABLE in the past, but the best we've been able to find in the way of food porn is tiny little thumbnails on their website. So this weird-angled close up of the mac and cheese fits the aesthetic of scarcity and subterfuge we've come to associate with the restaurant for probably no good reason. Also, it's been rather chilly out, and nothing burns your esophagus quite like a bowl of molten cheese on noodles.

By the way! Do you want to know what the three cheeses are? It's aged cheddar, white cheddar, and parmesan. Could you imagine if it was morbier, havarti and gjetost? A shame, really. Have a warm(er) weekend!

TABLE fifty-two (52) [MenuPages]
TABLE fifty-two (52) [Official Site]

[JordanaZ/flickr]

Reader + Sun-Times + Hungry Mag: Vong's Thai Kitchen Sparks Controversy

This week's Omnivorous has Mike Sula on the South Side, pulling up a stool at a Whiskey Row saloon called Stanley's. We have three Stanley's restaurants in our database (Stanley's, Stanley's Grille, Stanley's Kitchen and Tap), but not this one - it's really too cool to be on the Internet. The bar has been around, and run by the same family, since the Depression. Proprietress Wanda Kurek makes a lunch special every day of classic hearty Polish food, occasionally supplemented by the bartender's testicle-sized dumplings. The article unexpectedly delves into the absurd and macabre saga of trucks skipping the curb on extra-wide 43rd street and smashing into the bar - first we hear about a few lost beer signs, but then out of nowhere, we're told that Wanda's brother-in-law was killed by one of those trucks, and the family has been kept in limbo by the city ever since. Equal parts classically tragic and tragically classic, and so Chicago.

Also very Chicago: ripping into Pat Bruno. First, Bruno writes a favorable review of Vong's Thai Kitchen in River North, which serves expensive Americanized Thai food made with decent ingredients. An uncritical eye would just glaze over and move on to something more interesting, but Mike Nagrant's eye has daggers shooting out of it. In a Hungry Magazine piece, Nagrant excoriates Bruno for choosing an irrelevant restaurant to review, lazy reporting, using tired adjectives, generally having a narrow focus, and a disinterest in elevating the tastes of his audience. Why not look at real Thai restaurants like Spoon or TAC Quick or Sticky Rice, Nagrant asks?

Well, given his venue, he's certainly preaching to the choir. Wait, were we talking about Nagrant, or Bruno? Oh, right, both. Bruno's readership - or at least as Bruno imagines it because he gets to choose his own adventure as a freelancer - walks past VTK all the time and wants to know what the deal is. Bruno...tells them! Could Bruno add an another sentence about authentic Thai restaurants around the city? Sure he could! But look on the bright side - it's not as if the people who read Bruno in the Sun-Times cannot and do not get restaurant reviews and advice from other sources. So while some of the criticism that Nagrant has made of Bruno are valid - on issues of research, style and sophistication - that fact that Bruno chose one restaurant vs. another to review is somewhat less egregious than Nagrant makes it out to be. But by all means, let the invective fly!

Incidentally, Bruno thinks that Frankie's 5th Floor Pizzeria at the Shops at 900 N Michigan is kind of terrible, noting disdainfully that he's "had better frozen pizzas." And he specifically calls out LEYE on doing a crappy job, too. So it's not all pandering!

Vong's Thai Kitchen [MenuPages]
Vong's Thai Kitchen [Official Site]
Frankie's 5th Floor Pizzeria [MenuPages]
Frankie's 5th Floor Pizzeria [Official Site]
Wanda's World [Reader]
Guy Vanek's Czech dumplings [Food Chain]
Currying Favor]
Bruno Gets it Wrong with Overpriced Thai Food [Hungry Magazine]
Patpourri [Sun-Times]

Worthy Of 10 Minutes: LTHForum User Survey

lth logo.gif LTHForum has given so much to us (both the editorial us and Chicago foodies in general), it's the least we can do to fill out their first ever user survey. We did it, and from the tone, it seems like they're gearing up for some major changes - or at least thinking about that possibility - so if there's something you want to change or keep exactly the same, now is the time and place to opine.

LTHForum Visitor/Member Survey [LTHForum]

p.s. their catchphrase today is "I will do whatever it takes to increase the dumpling to soup ratio." Yes, ratios!

FYI: Food, Government Locked In Vicious Battle To The Death

• In case you didn't know, our ethanol policies are stupid [BusinessWeek]
• FDA tries to defend itself on cloning, but not convincingly [Reuters]
• Meanwhile, FDA plans satellite inspection offices in US embassies [AP]
• Milk money paying for expensive primary in western suburbs [Tribune]
• Clyde Haberman pokes fun of the tuna crisis, candidates [NYTimes]

January 24, 2008

Tribune + TOC: Online Delivery, Schwa Returning

meyer lemons.jpg

Once more with the ten words or less? Given the late hour, yes please.

It's the "Staying In" issue at the Tribune, on which topic there seems to be exactly two articles. Did we miss something?

• Vettel&Co. try local online delivery services, finds them swift, competent [Tribune]
• Tablehopping: Bowles' move; Edible Chicago's imminent; Christopher Borrelli's Tribune debut [Tribune]
• MEng hits Argyle Street for Vietnamese takeout. Mmm...banh mi [Tribune]

Meanwhile, Time Out Chicago has their usual docket of good stuff:

• Heather Shouse's wonderful interview with Schwa's Michael Carlson - must read [TOC]
• Tamarkin: decor bests uneven food at Uncommon Ground on Devon [TOC]
• Shouse: Mythos Taverna in Roscoe Village shows Greektown what's cooking [TOC]
• Meyer lemons are featured on haute Chicago menus this month [TOC]
• Sunday brunch at Green Zebra? Yeah, it's vegetarian and delicious [TOC]*

Uncommon Ground [MenuPages]
Uncommon Ground [Official Site]
Mythos Greek Taverna [MenuPages]
Green Zebra [MenuPages]
Green Zebra [Official Site]

[Photo: Meyer lemons, Joiseyguy/flickr]

* Except they actually started serving brunch a while ago. We called them up and they said four to five months, but we've had their brunch menu in our database, unchanged and still accurate, since last June. Go figure!

Menu Problems: "Ribs Tips"

We hesitate to post this because sometimes we get an attack of conscience, but don't worry! We've already dismissed it. This afternoon, we received an email from [REDACTED] in the guise of a menu problem* for Rose Bar-B-Que in Bronzeville. The restaurant moved from 55th to 47th street recently, which, according to our interlocutor, has not been to the advantage of the meat:
i purshase a jr cb 01/23/07 2:pm that with one wing and link and tips the tips were so tough and rubber i didn't enjoy them at all my husband is very mad because he told me to go some place else i told him ive been with rosa since 55th street ,and she very good with her food and sauce, this is the first visit she she moved from 55th i'm taking the tips back and i can't go back here any more pork should be well done this was not cook well at all
How Joycean. Anyway, Rose, this is fair warning about your rib tips. If a 'cue joint's tips are rubbery, that's pretty much a death knell. Quality, value and consistency are as vital for barbecue as they are for anything else! Okay, duly noted.

Rose Bar-B-Que [MenuPages]

* see also Menu Problems: "No Fahita's on Menu"

Compare & Contrast: Spertus Cafe Vs. Metro Klub

kosher parking.jpg

First, there was nothing. And then, there were two Kosher lunch options in and around downtown! Spertus Cafe in the South Loop got a lot of press when it opened a few weeks ago, what with its soaring location in the Spertus Institute and its erstwhile association with Wolfgang Puck, while Metro Klub in the West Loop has gotten a quieter reception since it opened last August. They're both lunch-only, both fleishig (meat as opposed to dairy), and they're both cafe style; so how to choose between them? Let's go to the menus.

Metro Klub is roommates with Dine at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, and has more restaurant-ish aspirations than Spertus. Metro Klub's menu includes four entrees, a feature Spertus' menu lacks. Of course, they're not all that exciting: both the seared Atlantic salmon and the grilled chicken breast come with caramelized leeks, wild mushrooms, green beans, Yukon potatoes, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil for $16. Honestly, they couldn't even vary a single ingredient between the two dishes? In fact, Metro's menu is quite boring on the whole, not getting any wilder than a tomato basil bruschetta for $6. Its saving grace, though is the availability of beef frye, a Kosher approximation of bacon. For a buck, you can add the workaround to a burger or a turkey club. We'd imagine this is the only restaurant that serves beef frye south of Devon, so it might be worth a visit for that alone.

Spertus Cafe's menu is much more fashion forward, as you'd expect from a Puck enterprise. Options include salads (a Thai Beef Salad has ginger spiced beef, peppercress, banana pepper rings and lemongrass vinaigrette for $8), sandwiches (albacore tuna is fancied up with chive dressing, butter lettuce and sprouts on a baguette for $4.50), and even sushi (a sampler comes with half a mock California roll, half a spicy tuna roll, half a salmon roll, edamame and Japanese cucumber salad for a suspiciously reasonable $4.50)

Of course, just because a menu sounds better doesn't mean the food tastes better. Everything at Spertus is prepared in advance, and David Tamarkin found it "cold [and] lifeless." Meanwhile, some Chowhounders thought the offerings at Metro Klub were quite good, if a little expensive. Neither one seems to hold much interest for the treyf set, although the atmosphere at Spertus has won plaudits, and the beef frye at Metro Klub is endlessly intriguing. But for the faithful, (lunch) times are good.

Metro Klub [MenuPages]
Spertus Cafe [MenuPages]
Spertus Cafe [Official Site]

[Photo: jeneyefer/flickr]

FYI: All Of This Is Our Fault

• The mercury in tuna: we did that, with our power plants [NYTimes]
• Japan doesn't think reported levels of mercury are dangerous [Bloomberg]
• If bandits are attacking Darfur WFP trucks, use helicopters! [UN]
• The global financial meltdown won't slow rising food prices [Reuters]
• Sbux testing $1 coffee with free refills! We are appalled [AP]

January 23, 2008

No Comment

danger-no menus.png


[Photo: Danger: No Menus]

Speed-Reading The Sun-Times & Tribune: Gluten, Cookbooks, Brits, Scrapple, Etc.

scrapple!.jpg

We so much enjoyed the exercise of summing up blog posts in ten words or less, we wonder if we can do it for the articles in this week's Sun-Times and Tribune Wednesday food sections? Probably! Don't kill us if we hit eleven by accident.

• Sandy Thorn Clark shines an anthropological/historical spotlight on cookbooks [Sun-Times]

• The history part, in a handy timeline; check 1947 [Sun-Times]

• Pomegranate season is expiring; remember, only eat the seeds! [Sun-Times]

• A made-up title for the person profiled in this article: sakemmelier [Sun-Times]

• Denise O'Neal reviews Republic, is easily impressed by tuna tartare [Sun-Times]

• What's hotter: new British cuisine, or their celebrity chefs! Neither? [Tribune]

• Nevertheless, KPang interviews Gordon Ramsay by phone from Wales! [Tribune]

• Everyone wants to know where to find scrapple in Chicago [Tribune]

• Bill Daley details the ten Italian varietals you should know [Tribune]

• Gluten's the new carbs! It was also the old carbs [Tribune]

We promise we won't be this brief every time, but it certainly clears up our schedule for putting new menus online. Later this afternoon: La Cocina de Frida, Smoke Shack, Metro Klub!

Republic [MenuPages]
Republic [Official Site]

[Photo: Scrapple tasting '08, and you weren't invited (Uncle_Pickle/flickr)]

Right This Second On the CFB: Bowles, Top Chef, Painted Lady, Montrose Flood, Cookware Sale!

Yes, it certainly is a busy day on the Chicago Food Blogosphere. So busy, in fact, that we don't want to waste your time with lengthy summaries. Therefore! the latest, in ten words or less apiece:

• To summarize, Avenues' Bowles bouncing in April; new restaurant imminent [Chicagoist]
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic.png • Top Chef Four premieres in March with three Chicagoish contestants [Stew]
• Goodbye Painted Lady; it was mediocre and too much work [Food Chain]
• Montrose water main break could permanently shutter local restaurants [TOC Blog]
Chopping Block hold 20% off sale through end of January [Drive-Thru]

Wow, and we only needed forty-nine words! And so with our extra word, we say "ethylenediaminetetraacetates," the longest hypothetically legal Scrabble word in North American play according to Wikipedia. Not that it would fit on a regulation board! (Or even a Super Scrabble board!)

[Photo: a diagram of EDTA via Molecular Station]

FYI: The Bad News Is Good And The Good News Is Bad

• Mercury-laden bluefin tuna: making us stupider by the day [NYTimes]
• Gazans allowed a little little bit of food. But not much! [WaPo]
• Costco hot dog+soda combo for $1.50 makes KPang's heart swoon [Tribune]
• NYC tries again with calorie listings on fast food menus [Money Times]
• Whole Foods to stop offering plastic bags at checkout! [UPI]

January 22, 2008

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Ethnic Cleansing At Boem

boem delicacy.jpg

People seem quite passionate about Boem, a post-Yugoslavian restaurant and sometimes dance club in Irving Park. While the restaurant diplomatically declines to self-identify as Serbian, Bosnian or Croatian (and why should they, since they're all the same cuisine), its supporters and detractors are more than happy to weigh in, with nasty results.

Early on, the comments were downright civil! User "Dre" left a review entitled "Authenticity benchmark" way back in March of last year:
If you want to try Bosnian and Serbian food at its best, Boem is the place. I am Croatian, I know how the food should taste, and Boem is very close to the benchmark. Expect large portions with a lot of meat - whether it is Bosnian national proud - cevapcici, or Serbian vjesalica (hanger), you won't leave hungry. The service is average but not bad. If the party is large enough, sometimes you may get a round of drinks on house (another Serbian custom). One thing that could be better is bread - it is often old, but you can easily go around this issue by simply skipping it.
The most controversial statement in this review is about the bread. By New Year's Eve, things had fallen apart completely, according to "thomas" who had "the worst experience ever" (ethnic groups redacted from here on):
Food in this restaurant had really bad smell, it was probably reheated, prepared ten or more days ago. Worst thing: I was almost attacked by some drunk [REDCATED] or [REDACTED] ( i'm not shure what kind of extremist that was ). It is strongly recommended not to go even close to that place which is dangerous for your health ad safety, too.
Eep! A foreshadow of things to come. The next review, which was left one day later by "Ivana," swings back to the positive:
I went to Boem on Saturday and Sunday night and it was packed! Food was excellent but bread was old and stale! I suggest trying cevapi instrad of pljeskavice! Live music is another plus, Osvajaci and Maja def make Boem worth going!
Man, that bread must be ghastly! A few days after that we got a review entitled "BAD":
BAD,BAD,BAD.
We're really glad people put time and effort into this stuff. Actually, the next person was certainly inspired to prose, since she left two reviews over three days. The first was simply angry:
Boem is a hole. The music is way too loud for a small place like that and it's terrible. These people don't know how to sing or play music. The actual place is stuffy and stinks. You'd want to eat here if you're crazy. I have went to Boem numerous times and hardly seen anyone eating. Once I happened to see the cook/server/waitress/owner (this women does it all) prepare a meal and the whole resturant was filled with an oily smell that smoked up the whole room. When we left, we all smelled as if we were in the kitchen. The ladies room is soooooo filty and nasty. It is the size of my closet. Hope you read this carefully and beware- only boem if u dare.
...but it took until the second one to become vindictive and personal:
Boem is absolutely disgusting. We have some farmer looking waitresses that don't speak English and don't understand what you're ordering. Boem has a bar half the size of the place, but absolutely no drinks. You ask them for a simple Martini and they don't know what it is. Probably because those waitresses were taking care of cows in [REDACTED] right before trying to serve customers. The owners are a bunch of losers that don't know how to run a business. All they do is sit, relax, and watch all these sluts shake their dirty asses on the crusty dance floor. The owners daughter thinks she knows what she's doing and tries to be little ms. perfect. if she was so perfect, she would be home taking care of her kids instead of bringing them to the bar/resturant to watch all of this nasty stuff, inhaling the gross smoke and eating the rotten food. Boem needs to be inspected and closed up. These people are foreigners that don't know what they're doing.
This reviewer kind of sounds like a stuck-up little [REDCATED] with an unwarranted vendetta against the family that runs Boem. But we digress! The most recent review came in over the weekend, and it tries valiantly to set the record straight:
I was at Boem last night with a couple of friends and found the atmosphere electric. Live dance music. People standing and singing along. Very warm environment. Yes, it is loud but I do not know of any place with live music that is not, especially this small. The service was slow because of lack of wait staff but people were mainly there for the music not food. This is a great place to bring a group of friends to enjoy live ethnic music and food. It is an ethnic environment so someone who has a small spectrum on the world may not appreciate it.
Yes. Everyone should expand their spectrum on the world! Maybe not at Boem (although we say, go for it!), but somehow, somewhere. And keep your personal squabbles and civil wars off MenuPages, okay?

Boem [MenuPages]
Boem [Official Site]

[Photo: an...item that Boem serves, from their website]

Blog Reviews: The Week Of Transit Rollercoaster Pulling Back Into The Station

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• Some of the old Berghoff charm remains at 17/West, which serves tasty German fare in addition to blandly conceived fusion food; problem is, it's empty much of the time [Chicagoist]

• If you like veal kidneys (and if you don't, you should), now would be a good time to head to Bistrot Zinc, where they're served with mustard sauce over noodles [Chicago Foodies]

Blago.jpg • Jumping onto the afternoon tea bandwagon, Chalkboard now offers the service on Saturday afternoons [Drive-Thru]

• Bridget and Tammy head to vegetarian stalwart Chicago Diner and find the food to be merely adequate (6/10) [Chicago Bites]

• Just because the giant soft pretzels at Laschet's Inn come frozen from Germany doesn't mean you shouldn't have one, with mustard [Food Chain]

• Can the chicken foccacia sandwich from Miceli's Deli change your life? Maybe not, but it will change your stomach [Chicagoist]

• It would be foolish to underestimate the charms of Le Lan; the French-Vietnamese fusion cuisine is at the top of its game [Chicago Foodies]

• Don't try using your NPR discount card at La Tache on the weekends (because you very well may have!), but the French bistro fare is still quite tasty [Drive-Thru]

• While Smith & Wollensky may grill up a great steak, the bar burgers are weak - the buns are mealy, the condiments over-aired, and the fries barely warrant a mention [Chicago Burger Project]

• Could Thai Urban Kitchen please just settle on an identity already? Because no one will review it until it does [Food Chain]

[Photo: Blago on the take,via Dan Rutherford]

Imbibing: Cheap Booze At A MANO Means They Need Customers

birra.jpeg A MANO, Bin 36's Italian trattoria in the Loop, is offering a pretty sharp drink special for a fancy Italian restaurant: all day and night from Mondays to Wednesdays, Peroni drafts are $2 and limontinis are $5. We'd be more nervous for them if the offer was for the weekends, but still. So they put out the bait; why not take it? LTHForum likes it well enough, and the food at least looks good. This is a place that, if it's going to be written off, it should be done in person.

A MANO [MenuPages]
A MANO [Official Site]

[Photo: Beerinator]

FYI: Enduring Mysteries of Ephemera

• "Fatosphere" most appropriately named part of blogosphere [NYTimes]
• Study on obesity rates for poor children inconclusive [AP]
• California has an oddly low % of the US food exports to Cuba [Reuters]
• Food poisoning can lead to kidney problems down the line [Canadian Press]
If the UN suspends food aid to Gaza, there might be blowback [USAToday]

January 18, 2008

Dining On Roadkill, Vermin, Politics

Our stars, is there a lot of talk