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February 29, 2008

HAHAHAHAHA

eat puppies!.jpg

MWAHAHAHAHA!

Have a good weekend.

[Photo: Worth1000]

Opening: NXXT Restaurant & Bar

nxxt interior.jpg

Our heart burned last week when we saw an imploration on LTHForum last week for us, in particular, to put NXXT Restaurant & Bar's menu online. Well, ask and ye shall receive, apparently. NXXT, located in, um, East Humboldt/West Ukie Village or something, is an upscale American comfort food restaurant with a pretty hip interior aesthetic. The guy who designed it was kind enough to put up a website whence we snatched the above photo.

As for the food, we rated it a $$$$ (meaning entrees average between $18 and $24), which is technically true but it glosses over the wide range of entree prices, from the $9 10oz Angus burger with sweet potato fries or grilled Vermont cheddar on "hearty" toast with roasted tomato bisque to the $28 grilled bone-in Kansas City cut sirloin with spinach and giant tater tots or the $30 seared lamb chops with wild mushrooms ragout and cauliflower puree.

These four items should be enough to orient you to the restaurant's pulse of semi-sophisticated riffs on classic American dishes. The reason everyone is doing upscale comfort food these days is...everyone likes it! And it seems like NXXT is doing a good job so far, impressing patrons with its fashion-forward interior, professional service, and especially the tasty burgers. It looks like this place has some real traction.

NXXT Restaurant & Bar [MenuPages]
NXXT Restaurant & Bar [Official Site]
NXXT Restaurant & Bar [leonardo bonanni]
Nxxt in West Ukrainian Village (East Humboldt Park?) [LTHForum]

[Photo: leonardo.bonanni/flickr]

Bruno & The Reader On What Not To Eat

meat.jpg

Mike Sula has a mildly disturbing article in this week's Omnivorous about the National Cattlemen's Beef Association's "Beef and Veal Culinary Center," a test kitchen located in the Loop. What's most disturbing about it is the timing, what with the Secretary of Agriculture coming down this morning on the side of meatpackers who want to slaughter and sell you downer cows.

So what's the newest way to fancify your slab of drugged up, broken down bovinity? Nothing that cannot be purchased in every corner of the country by any given moron. Executive Director (and Kendall grad) Dave Zino related an anecdote about a particularly memorable focus group: "one participant said he didn’t like the [recipes] that called for dry red wine because he could never find it in powdered form at the grocery store."

We'll save you the rant about how beef ought to be a rare delicacy rather than a mass-produced staple, but we sincerely hope that the NCBA fails in its quest to increase Americans' per capita beef consumption. Meanwhile, Omnivorous goes on to list nineteen burger options!

On the Bruno front, Pat visits a fairly humdrum Irish pub in Streeterville called D4 Irish Pub & Cafe that neither fully embraces its owners' Irish roots nor the New American bar food angle they've kind of adopted. So you end up with corned beef deep dish pizza and pot pie and fish and chips, some of which is tasty, if not particularly interesting. We're not really sure why Bruno chose to review it.

Far more interesting is our discovery, with the help of Mike Nagrant, of why we've been consistently unable to view Bruno's reviews off the Sun-Times Dining page. Basically, if you click on the review link from the dining page, you get blank screen, but if you search for the article on the Sun-Times site, you get linked to a version that works. The difference has to do with URL naming conventions, and we emailed the correction to the Sun-Times' web editor. They have not responded or made the change, depriving dozens of avid Bruno fans their weekly fix. A shame!

The Meat Pushers [Reader]
Old world, new reality [Sun-Times]
D4 Irish Pub & Cafe [MenuPages]
D4 Irish Pub & Cafe [Official Site]

[Photo: we'd have done the italicizing differently. Kindly Póg Mo Thóin]

FYI: Leap (Day) To Conclusions

• Horrible Secretary of Agriculture wants you to eat downer cows [WaPo]
• There aren't nearly enough veterinarians for our animal load [USAToday]
• Calif. strawberry farmers carping about new pollution regulations [AP]
• That recent wheat volatility on the CBOT caused by one rogue trader [Tribune]
• In case it all goes wrong, at least we have the arctic seed vault! [NYTimes]

February 28, 2008

New On MenuPages: Masouleh, Nia, NXXT, Tallulah

All you menuphiles, clamor no longer! We will do more extensive profiles in the upcoming days, but for those of you already in the know, we now have the menus for Masouleh, Nia, NXXT Restaurant & Bar, and Tallulah. This is moderately impressive since only one of them has a functioning website at the moment (Tallulah; although Google doesn't seem to know it yet, so what use are they?) Anyway, get excited!

Time Out Chicago & Tribune: Classic Chicago Dining

steak n' egger.jpg

This week, the food sections tackle Hopper-esque diners as vanishing symbols of urban anomie, and also Polish food! Equally relevant, we feel.

Chris Borelli's piece on what's left of the "Nighthawks"-style diner in Chicago goes in search of downtrodden all-night diners, the exact nature of which Borelli lyrically describes in the article and accompanying video. He finds a few that sort of fit the bill (Dox Grill, Jeri's Grill, Lawrence Grill - the types of places that wouldn't give us a menu in a million years), and we'd like to add Steak 'n Egger on Cermak and May.

As long as he's on the subject of old-time Chicago, Chris investigates the current state of chop suey, the most famous Chinese dish invented in America (wanna fight about it?). Chris notes that "dozens" of Chicagoland Chinese restaurants still use the name of the dish in their names; we count fifteen, few of them centrally located.

We'd hazard a guess that those who like chop suey also frequent Polish buffets. Mike Nagrant rounds up his nine favorite smörgåsbords in Chicagoland, starting with Old Warsaw in Norridge. RIP Tatra Inn of Archer Heights, by the way.

Hot right now: wholesale-retail cheese emporia, desserts that incorporate mustard, blood orange cocktails.

In the review corner, Phil Vettel sashays over to Takashi and is duly impressed by the simultaneously rich and delicate dishes. He wants to see a little more risk-taking with the preparations, but assumes it is coming down the line. Chris Borelli, who put in triple duty this week, tried his luck at Pupuseria Las Delicias - if you go, stick to the pupusas, but feel free to try the horchata.

Wondering where the TOC review are? Well, cease your quivering. They are taking a break this week to let some hot new restaurants cool down enough for proper evaluation. The wait, you can be assured, will be worth it.

Steak 'n Egger [MenuPages]
Takashi [MenuPages]
Takashi [Official Site]
Pupuseria Las Delicias [MenuPages]

[Photo: the counter at Steak n' Egger, hulkum/flickr]

The Eating Habits Of Our Seniorest Senators

bologna and mayonnaise sandwich.jpg

Via Lawyers, Guns and Money, we were treated to an interview with aging Senator Ted Stevens of Alaska on his food preferences:
"I have a piece of chocolate every morning, every morning...dark chocolate," said Senator Stevens. "I get fetishes. I don't eat white potatoes. I don't eat things that have white sugar in them. I get hooked on stories I hear and things I read, so I love sweet potatoes. Sometimes she cooks something and I don't eat it. And she says, 'You're a nutritional terrorist, that's all,'" said Stevens.
LGM posits that Stevens meant "fascistic," but "fetishes" sort of makes sense in the context, too. But we must call into question the use of "terrorism" to describe Steven's aversion to his wife's cooking. No wonder we've been bumbling blind for the past six years!

The fact is, dark chocolate is good for you and white potatoes and sugar are bad for you, so at least Stevens has that much straight. But it made us wonder what our other octogenarian senators were eating these days. There are, after all, six of them! (And another twenty over seventy.)

• Robert Byrd (D-WV), the oldest Senator at 90, was reported by TIME in 1978 to "always eat lunch in his office, usually a bologna sandwich prepared by his wife Erma. Says he: "It saves time." Besides, for Byrd, food is merely fuel, though he does confess an uncontrollable weakness for chocolate-covered cherries." More recent accounts suggest that Byrd eats Spam and mayonnaise sandwiches thrice weekly, but this is apocryphal.

• Daniel Inouye (D-HI), oddly enough, also professes a preference for Spam and mayonnaise sandwiches. It's really not that odd at all, given Hawaii's illustrious history with the potted meat.

• Daniel Akaka (D-HI), for his part, introduced an amendment to the Senate in 2003 concerning the treatment of downed animals at slaughterhouses (relevant!) that ultimately passed. He's also been honored by the Humane Society. So whatever Senator Inouye eats, he eats it ethically. (Bonus question: why are both of our Hawaiian senators 83-year-old Democrats named Daniel? They were born four days apart in September 1927!)

• John Warner (R-VA), recently released from the hospital, celebrated a birthday last week. According to the Hampton Roads Daily Press's blog, "Warner, who maintains a trim figure, said he did not indulge in any birthday cake. But his wife Jeanne, he confided, 'fixed a very special dinner for me.' No word on what was on the menu." Our guess - crab cakes.

• Frank Lautenberg (D-NJ) has professed a love of honey mustard chicken, telling the AP that "whenever I get the chance, I make my favorite recipe of honey mustard chicken, and when I'm out for dinner and it's on the menu, sometimes I'll try it, but it's never as good as when I cook it at home." What do we make of this "if you want it done right, do it yourself" ethos emanating from the senator? The mind boggles.

We do not find it remotely surprising that the mode turned out to be Spam and mayonnaise sandwiches; senators who survive to their ninth decade know not to bite off more than they can chew.

"I get fetishes" [Lawyers, Guns and Money]
List of current United States Senators by age [Wikipedia]
Byrd of West Virginia: Fiddler in the Senate [TIME]
Wha is spam? [Yahoo Answers]
Some Tid-Bits on Spam [The History Crier]
Senate Adopts Downed Animal Protection Amendment [Senate.gov]
Humane Society Honors Sen. Daniel Akaka for Animal Welfare Work [Senate.gov]
Belated birthday wishes..... [The Shad Plank]
Crab Cakes [First Traveler's Choice]
Honey Mustard Chicken [First Traveler's Choice]
Cookbook features politicians’ creations [Laredo Morning Times]
Congress Cooks! [First Traveler's Choice]

[Photo: actually a bologna and mayo sandwich. But close enough. Sarah Reed/flickr]

FYI: Stability At A Premium

• Human Society lawsuit: gov't implicitly encourages downer cow slaughter [NYTimes]
• Nobody likes wheat's wild gyrations on the CBOT, but they're systemic [Guardian]
• France: Sara Lee among seven US companies fixing prices in France! [IHT]
• Burger King introducing mac & cheese and other gimmicks [Forbes]
• Marine animals hunt for food in similar ways to terrestrial animals [AFP]

February 27, 2008

Sun-Times & Tribune: 10 Minute Recipes, Cooking From The Pantry

hello dolly.jpg

This week, the Sun-Times and Tribune food sections are fast, cheap, and out of control.

• 10 minute recipes are the new 20 minutes recipes [Tribune]
• Cooking from your pantry is the new cooking from the farmers' market [Sun-Times]
• And here's a great list of staples to keep around [Sun-Times]
• Sorry, we have to go long-form on this one. Lisa Donovan talks about how you can save a ton of money on lattes if you use a $2 IKEA product to froth your milk before you add the espresso. But...where are you getting your budget espresso from, exactly? Nowhere, that's what [Sun-Times]
• On the other hand, $25 "Bling" water in Trump Hotel minibars is unspeakably vile [Sun-Times]
• A nice profile on a young Wilmette chef who opened a little restaurant in Paris on a shoestring [Tribune]
• OMG Leap Day specials! We hadn't even thought of that [Sun-Times]
• Bill Daley is on the cheese: wine pairings with goat [Tribune] and simple quesadillas with crisp sauv blanc [Tribune]
• Meyer lemons are back in season! [Tribune]
• Once your sugar starts caramelizing, well, you got a gastrique on your hands [Tribune]
• DOLLY PARTON HAS A COOK BOOK! And it contains a recipe for spaghetti pie [Sun-Times]

[Photo: Dolly's Imagination Library. So named because all revenues go to buying books for kids.]

Project Find You A Bar That's Showing Runway Finale Part 1

Would you believe it's mostly gay bars? We have no idea why.

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club is offering half-priced martinis, "design-your-own" martinis, and menu specials like the Heidi Klum (pot roast, sauerkraut, roasted potatoes), according to Metromix

Crew is doing a bit of a raffle - if you pick the winning designer, you get a free drink and a chance to win a $100 Gap card. Why not a $100 Barney's card? But still a nice gesture. Note it means you'd have to go next week, too! (via Time Out)

Halsted's is showing the finale on several - and possibly all - of its big screen TVs. The specials they listed in the email they sent around ($5 Jalapeno Poppers, $5 Nachos, $5 Cheese Quesadillas & $3.50 Coronas) are, in fact, offered every Wednesday. So you're not special!

Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club [MenuPages]
Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club [Official Site]
Crew [MenuPages]
Crew [Official Site]
Halsted's [MenuPages]
Halsted's [Official Site]

Charlie Trotter's New York Restaurant Building, In Progress

So basically, Charlie Trotter's first foray into the New York restaurant market will be sandwiched between a Wendy's and a Quizno's in a new building called One Madison Park. Also in the sandwich - Bonobo's, a raw food/vegan cafe that makes excellent nut meat salads. Don't laugh at nut meat! It's just mashed up hazelnuts and cashews and what have you, nothing dirty. Here, a fairly recent photo of Trotter's future digs:
one madison park.jpg

Pretty exciting!

Off the Menu [NYTimes]
Bonobo's [MenuPages]
Bonobo's [Official Site]

[Photo: TresspassersWill/flickr]

FYI: Where You'd Least Expect It

• Charlie Trotter opening new restaurant one block from MPHQ! [NYTimes]
• Don's Finest, Lake Forest gourmet supermarket, closes unexpectedly [Tribune]
• Starbucks thinks three hours of training means barista perfection [ABCNews]
• Beef mega-recall expands to include contaminated packaged food [WSJ]
• What are the Chinese buying now? Bordeaux vineyards. Fancy! [IHT]

February 26, 2008

Best Of MenuPages Review: Mundial Cocina Mestiza Rollercoaster (Shill Alert)

Mundial Cocina Mestiza tamale.jpg

We may not do reviews at MenuPages, but our legions of users are all over that. Here are three of interest.

Last month, we shared a very long, largely negative review for Mundial Cocina Mestiza, the fashion-forward Mexican restaurant on 18th street in Pilsen. The thrust of the review was that service was slow. Slow enough to justify 385 words; slow enough to inspire scores of new acronyms to describe how slow it was. We thought the reviewer was being unreasonable, and unusually, we were seconded by a commenter. But it was also not the first time we'd seen this complaint about MCM, which for all its culinary achievements, seems to be understaffed.

Not everyone appreciates what they're trying to do with the food, either. On February 20th, "La Mexican" wrote a review entitled "Looks fun but not crazy about the food":
I think this restuarant has gotten more buzz than it really deserves they're food isn't all that great. It looks lot a fun spot to be in but it's alway so crammed up with people. The waiters have little experience and you're always trying to get their attention for a drink. The first time I was there my steak was so tough it was just not a good piece of meat. They never offered to replace it or give me something else. I think if you want some good mexican food head down to Nuevo Leon or Cebollita they've got the good grub in pilsen!
While those restaurants are a totally different thing from what MCM is trying to do, the constant complaint is the service.

And then all of a sudden, we got two positive reviews for the place. On the 24th, "lg1" wrote:
Despite other mixed reviews I've read, I decided I had to try Mundial for myself today. I went for brunch where I had the Mexican Omelet and my father had Topados. Both were excellent!!! I was actually surprised by how good everything was (and let me tell you I am beyond picky)! Large portions, wonderful flavor, comes with beans, awesome potatoes, sour cream and chiles. Can't forget the homemade tortillas too. Perhaps other patrons went on a bad day, because my service was excellent. I think they treat kindness with kindness. My coffee was filled 5 times before it was empty, and the same for my water. Perhaps my genuine please and thank you was very much appreciated because other patrons did have to ask for refills, but they were always quite rude to the staff. I love this place and I can't wait to go back for more brunch and dinner. I highly recommend it and don't be fooled by other's complaints of bad service- being nice truly does get you a long way in the restaurant world! Besides the place is very small with a very small kitchen, if you go there on the weekend and order your food at the same time as 20 other people you're going to have to wait!
This is very defensive for a first time customer, wouldn't you say? This viewpoint expressed in this review was refined the next day by "Pleased.As.Punch":
This restaurant obviously has read its reviews and has improved its service. Had I not read the dismal reviews on service, I never would have thought Mundial had had a problem with it. We were served professionally, quickly, and thoughtfully. Our reservation was honored and we were seated quick as a wink. The ambience was pleasant and comfortable enough for an incredibly popular place (sat in the back room). The food was fantastic, though maybe a little light on portion size. (Order some sides or salads to fill it up.) This is not a typical Mexican restaurant, so if you ARE looking for tacos and refried beans and low prices, then you probably should go down the street to Nuevo Leon (as another reviewer suggested). I lose my patience with people who think if it's Mexican, it's got to be cheap. It's not a Mexican restaurantit's kind of Mediterranean-Spanish. Something fusion's going on, and I liked it! I thought the prices were right on the money (excuse the pun), and with the BYOB, it was a bargain. Can't wait to return!!
Don't get us wrong, but this sounds like exactly what the restaurateur would write in his or her defense while knowing that he or she must remain anonymous. We're going to give this the benefit of the doubt, to the extent that we're not taking the reviews down. But by all means, let us know what you think.

Mundial Cocina Mestiza [MenuPages]

[Photo: swanksalot/flickr]

Still Room At Volo's 5-Course French Wine Dinner Tonight

Hey, why not? $65 puts you in for a five course dinner with wine pairings, including:

voloheader.jpg 1) Buckwheat bellini with American sturgeon | sparkling Vouvray
2) Seafood velouté with saffron, lobster and clams | Chateau Montrachet
3) Cassoulet with meringues and duck confit | Domaine des Tourelles burgundy (and maybe rose!)
4) Veal breast stuffed with sweetbread and applewood smoked bacon | Chateauneuf du Pape
5) Chocolate espresso and caramel pian | Bernard vin doux naturelle

It's a rich menu, but the weather's appropriate. It starts at 7pm, but show up at 6:30 for aperitifs with Wine Director Shad Martin, Chef Partner Stephen Dunne, Managing Partner Jon Young, and "special guest" Frederick Brown of Fine Vines, according to their promotional email. Call now, because it's almost fully booked!

Volo [MenuPages]
Volo [Official Site]

If It's Tuesday, It Must Be Belgium

Sometimes, we get a hankering for the food of the Low Countries. Belgium's pantry is forged from the French (buttery sauces, refinement) and German (sour, pickled, and heavy) traditions, and is best known in the United States for three things: waffles, mussels, and ales. Here are a few spots where you can sample the cuisine:

Baladoche is the only restaurant in our system to self-identify as Belgian. They make crispy Belgian waffles, the sort you might purchase on the street in Brussels for immediate consumption. Here's one covered in Nutella:

baladoche belgian waffle with nutella.jpg


A Zucker waffle with nutella is $6.43 (why not), or for a penny less you can get one filled with apples and cinnamon.

• If you like your Belgian waffles softer and served for breakfast in a sit-down environment, you could do worse than the strawberry- and whipped cream-topped version at Tre Kronor:

tre kronor belgian waffles.jpg


It's $6.95, and while not super-authentic, at least also hails from Northern Europe.

• Our mussels and beer suggestions are one in the same - Hopleaf is universally recognized for both its moules frites and its Belgian ale and lambic selections. These mussels have been steamed in Wittekerke white ale with sliced shallots, celery, thyme and bay leaves, much to their benefit:

Hopleaf Belgian mussels.jpg


You cannot argue with that, or with the cone of frites served with aioli that you can sort of see on the right ($11 for one, $20 for two).

Best to indulge your Belgian cravings now, as the country could dissolve any minute!

Baladoche [MenuPages]
Baladoche [Official Site]
Baladoche Zucker waffle with nutella [Zesmerelda/flickr]
Tre Kronor [MenuPages]
Belgian Waffle at Tre Kronor [nibblekibble/flickr]
Hopleaf [MenuPages]
Hopleaf [Official Site]
Hopleaf moules frites [Sarah Brown/flickr]
Belgian parties reach deal on bridging linguistic gap [IHT]

FYI: And They Will (Probably Not) Pay For Their Sins!

• The Great Starbucks Shutdown begins this evening at 5:30pm [Newsday]
• Contaminated meatpackers testify today before Congressional panel [CNNMoney]
• Food inflation hampering WFP emergency distribution programs [BBCNews]
• If Venezuela's floating on oil revenues, why are there food lines? [Sky]
• Can a suburban property owner marshal pigs to his defense? [Tribune]

February 25, 2008

Fact: Illinois Wants Your Children To Drink Ethanol!

corn is for cars.jpg

We were as surprised as you to discover that, if you twist the meaning of two profoundly out-of-date Illinois agriculture websites, you can come to this horrifying, yet inevitable, conclusion. Observe:

1) From the Illinois corn Fact Sheet:
"While exposure to ethanol via inhalation and ingestion is not recommended, it has not been determined to cause adverse health effects."

2) From IL Dep't of Agriculture Kid's Page:
That's right! Illinois is the nation's number-one producer of ethanol. Corn grown in Illinois is used to make about 690 million gallons each year -- enough to fill about 7 billion soda cans!

The ILDA's Kid's Page is from 1996, by the way, and current figure is 1.2 billion gallons a year, or almost 12 billion soda cans (and Illinois is no longer number one; it's third after Iowa and Nebraska).

Why is the state doing this? Don't the children already drink enough corn?

Ethanol Fact Sheet [Illinois Corn]
Gas Pump Answer [ILDA Kid's Page]
Ethanol Production by State [Nebraska Energy Office]

[Photo: SA_Steve/flickr]

The Five Most Popular Barbecue Joints In Chicago (According To You, Via MenuPages)

honey 1.jpg

Now, this isn't a ranking of the best barbecue in Chicago, but instead, simply the ones that have received the most votes. In some cases, the verdict was quite negative! But oh well, the people have spoken. Since the top five all received six or seven reviews, we will let the rating be the final arbiter. The best review for each restaurant follows. So:

5) Calvin's BBQ, with 6 reviews and an abysmal rating of 2.5:
Bad choice, should've bought the lotto - If you want attitude, so-so food and a punishing experience, then you belong here. I tried the pulled-pork "world-class" sandwich and I think the name is correct for a third-world place in a first-world country...not so good. Rib tips were maybe less than average. Service gets a zero from me and if you want to know why, just visit this place and it will be obvious when they short you on your food, your taste, but not the cost, Calvin's website states that "...if you don’t really like people, you’re in the wrong business..." well guess what Calvin, either you change your staff or delete this from your webpage, because it's not happening dude. Most importantly, looks like Calvin needs to go back to St. Louis for retraining immediately if not sooner. [Ed.: haha]


4) Fat Willy's Rib Shack, with 6 reviews and a rating of 3.5:
Was a huge fan of Fat Willy's in the beginning. Absolutely LOVE their spicy bbq sauce. Recently, however, I notice the prices are high and the service is low. I called for delivery on evening and was rudely put on hold (had to hang up and call back 5 times) before being told that delivery orders aren't taken until 5pm (it was 4:55). Overall - the cold and soggy food that arrived was very expensive, in my opinion. Two sandwhich dinners for $30.00. Will be trying some over, more down-to-earth bbq joints from now on.


3) Smoque BBQ, with 7 reviews and a rating of 3.5:
The only thing missing...is a bigger dining room with an actual wait staff. We went here on a Saturday night and the place was PACKED! Not that I mind rubbing elbows with strange people at a picnic table...but they have the volume to warrent a bigger space. That said, the food was DELICIOUS!!! I had the pulled pork sandwich with fries and mac & cheese. YUM! Love the fact that it's BYOB. A great value, too.


2) Bar-B-Que Bob's, with 6 reviews and a rating of 4:
Opened in 2005, this simple little rib joint has 3 folding plastic tables and 6 or 8 folding chairs... friendly store front atmosphere... and slow (attention to detail) service. This place has the best ribs... pork and beef, super greens and beans, and killer cornbread. Typical of a lot of small rib joints there is no diet pop. Oh well... try it! It's great.


1) Honey 1 BBQ, with 7 reviews and a rating of 4:
Honey 1 has amazing ribs and excellent sauce. Their hot links are also very, very good with the right amount of zip. My only (small) complaint is that the pulled pork sandwich, while delicious, is tiny and seems overpriced at 8 bucks. Overall, this is the best BBQ I've had in Chicago and I HIGHLY recommend it.


We'll buy Honey 1's rank, at least. Also, four of five are on the Northwest Side, which shows a bias. Next time: South Side BBQ!

[Photo: Mgmax/flickr]

Blog Reviews: Week Of The Lunar Eclipse!

eclipse.jpg

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• For easy, low-key Greektown dining, you could do worse than Artopolis; try the mango yogurt mousse [Drive-Thru]

• Stalwart Bin 36 making wine and cheese pairings work at all levels of sophistication [Chicagoist]

• Nobody doesn't like the jibaritos at Borinquen Restaurant, which were recently featured in Esquire's "Best Sandwiches in America" article [Chicagoist]

• The South Loop's Hi Tea offers tasty sandwiches (especially the turkey club) in addition to its dozens of tea varities [Chicagoist]

• If you want your South American steak without pretension (or high prices), try Las Tablas' location in Portage Park. Also, the churrasco [Chicagoist]

• Did you know that Laschet's Inn is now owned by non-Germans? Oy gevalt! But the beer on tap's still great, and the new generation is commmitted to keeping things as they were [Chicago Foodies]

• So far, praise for Lito's Empanadas in Lincoln Park has been near-universal [Chicago Foodies]

• The new Mediterranean restaurant in the West Loop, Nia, is winning fans with its perfectly cooked seafood and two-week sangria [Chicagoist]

• Chain global noodle shop Noodles & Company's Loop location does brisk business during lunch, and makes a serviceable Indonesian "Saute" [Drive-Thru]

• Mostly a wholesale business, PapaNicholas now has a new coffee shop in Portage Park with wifi and a 96 oz coffee to go [Drive-Thru]

• Both locations of Pollo Campero, operated in Chicago by Levy's, will be serving Peruvian rotisserie chicken starting next week [Hungry Mag]

• High hopes for Powerhouse met with awkward service and bland food (except when it was too salty) [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Recently relocated to Lincoln Park, Sushi X serves big, complicated rolls in a stock trendy environment [Chicago Foodies]

• Japanese-French fusion copncept Takashi more than delivers on flavor and sophistication, but the portions are too damn small for the price. You cannot give people only a little delicious food! [Hungry Mag]

• Endless hundreds of tea options at TeaGschwendner on the Gold Coast means even the pickiest tea snob will find solace [Chicagoist]

[Photo: Merrick Brown/flickr]

FYI: Unlikely Products In Unlikely Places

• UK: food packaging with "fruit flavor" is a big fat lie [BBC]
• Kimchi in space? Mastering the taste without the bacteria [NYTimes]
• A call for more amateur beekeeping to diversify the species [STLToday]
• How is that fancy coffee thing working out for McDonald's? [Tribune]
• Feng Shui'd McDonald's a hit in California. What took so long? [AP]

February 22, 2008

Viewing Pleasure: Polish Sausage @ Billy Goat Tavern

Billy Goat Tavern Grilled Polish.jpg

Wow. This split grilled Polish sausage at Billy Goat Tavern Original sure is...evocative! It's $3.25, and comes with mustard (as you would imagine). The fat-addled pink coloring is alluring, and that char is more than right. By upping the surface-to-volume ratio, you really get nice flame coverage; we want to reach into the screen and eat the one on the left in one big messy mouthful. At Billy Goat, no one would look askance if you did so, either. And that is the best part of all.

Have an uncouth weekend!

Billy Goat Tavern Original [MenuPages]
Billy Goat Tavern Original [Official Site]

[Photo: Andrew Huff/flickr]

Now On MenuPages: Matsuya, Villa Rosa, Dark Horse, Noodles & Company (Again)

Yesterday, we brought you five new additions to the MenuPages family. Here's four more:

Matsuya is a Wrigleyville Japanese and sushi restaurant; we use the distinction because it used to be mostly tempura and teriyaki and such, and now there's a substantial raw fish menu as well.

The Dark Horse is a Wrigleyville "tap and grille" that "provides the comfort of a neighborhood tavern, the class of a English Pub and the excitement of a sports bar all in a cozy setting." We got that lit from their website, and it made us chuckle. On the other hand, Mondays are $1 burger night.

Villa Rosa Pizza & Restaurant is a local chain; this branch is out by Midway. We were speaking of pepper and eggs earlier, and sure enough, Villa Rosa has such a sandwich for $3.30. That is exact.

Noodles & Company ought to sound familiar to the astute reader, since we also put one online yesterday. In doing so, we discovered that they have a Lincoln Park location in addition to their Loop store. So now you can get Indonesian "Saute" anywhere you want to be!

Review Week At Omnivorous (Takashi, Rustik, Crisp) + Shooting Blanks At The Sun-Times

takashi shrimp.jpg

As we speak, two of three Bruno articles (Stop By Anytime about Palace Grill and Loaded For Bear about who knows what, except the URL involves "Ditkas" ) are coming up blank for us. We mean, we click on the link, and everything but the text of the articles show up. This will probably be corrected at a really awkward time, like 30 seconds after this posts goes up.

Alas. But we shouldn't leave empty-handed; Patpourri, a pun we rather enjoy week after week whether we want to or not, advises us to check out the Lent-friendly pepper and egg pizza at Ballo. Egg on pizza is a good thing; the runnier, the better.

Meanwhile, reviews gone wild on the Reader! The restaurants in question (Takashi, Rustik, and Crisp) all have one-word names with a dominating hard 'k' sound. These are action restaurants! So sexy, so now.

Actually, they're rather unalike. Takashi is a fancy-pants Japanese-French fusion spot where the high-end ingredients are matched with expertly prepared accompaniments. Mike Sula writes, "there were no surprises where the well-prepared duck-fat-fried chicken or crispy, juicy veal sweetbreads were concerned, but their respective foils—spicy, slightly pickled cabbage slaw and cream-kissed green peppercorn sauce—made all the difference in the world." Where would food reviewing be without em-dashes?

Rustik is a near-universally panned Logan Square upscale comfort food restaurant. The space is nice and the service is fine, but the food falls short time after time. Anne Spiselman sadly reports: "Oversalting ruined the robust broth of a chicken noodle soup, and a salty Dijon vinaigrette marred the 'ABLT' salad—spiky arugula and frisee topped with avocado, bacon, and cherry tomato. On the other hand, mac ’n’ cheese was bland despite the promise of smoked Gouda in the creamy sauce coating the cavatappi." A shame.

Crisp is a Korean fried chicken joint in Lakeview that's been winning praise around the Chicago foodiesphere. The guys who run the place sampled Kfc (note the lower case) around the country for their formulation, and it seems to have paid off. The chicken is perhaps the only reason to go, however.

There are a bunch more new reviews below the fold; on the Food Chain, Sula is especially proud of the reviews for Lao Beijing and Lao Shanghai that he filed with Gary Wiviott.

Palace Grill [MenuPages]
Ballo [MenuPages]
Takashi [MenuPages]
Takashi [Official Site]
Rustik [MenuPages]
Rustik [Official Site]
Crisp [MenuPages]
Crisp [Official Site]
Lao Beijing [MenuPages]
Lao Shanghai [MenuPages]

[Photo: crazy-ass shrimp at Takashi, via brady frequent traveler and eater/flickr]

FYI: Our True Colors

• America: proudly serving tainted meat to its poor school kids [NYTimes]
• It's scary that chronic USDA understaffing is no longer news [AP]
• What happens if there's a bad corn year? You don't want to know [Tribune]
• Duh study: there's a ton of fast food ads on Spanish-language TV [WaPo]
• On the economy collapsing front, Sbux cuts 600 jobs, mostly corporate [SeattleTimes]

February 21, 2008

Ask MenuPages: Where Can I Find Da Bing (Green Onion Sesame Bread) In Chicago?

da bing.jpg

Short answer: you can't!

Reader Joyce wrote in, wondering where she might find Da Bing - sesame bread with green onions - in the area. Joyce had done a lot of research and only found it to be available in California, and wondered if we had any insight.

Well, it's basically a cousin of the scallion pancake, but unlike that universal dish, it's seemingly only served in Hui restaurants. The Hui are ethnic Chinese Muslims who live all over the country. Well, not our country; in fact, they seem to be concentrated in California (is there anything that state doesn't have?) The many blogs and message boards that reference Da Bing all do so with respect to Islamic Chinese restaurants in LA and the Bay Area, and there simply aren't any Islamic Chinese restaurants in Chicagoland.

Please, correct us if we're wrong; the closest thing we were able to find was an out-of-business Halal Chinese restaurant on Devon, but their menu didn't have anything close to Da Bing. We're thinking the only person who can fix this is Tony Hu of Lao Beijing/Lao Shanghai/Lao Sze Chuan fame; he seems dedicated to bringing the myriad cuisines of China to Chicago, so maybe he can be pestered to put Da Bing on one of his menus. Speaking of which, are there any Uyghur restaurants in Chicagoland? The Uyghurs are Turkic Muslims native to China's northwestern territory of Xinjiang, and they do a mean thrown noodle and thousand year old egg. Lots of goat, too.

Lao Beijing [MenuPages]
Lao Shanghai [MenuPages]
Lao Sze Chuan [MenuPages]
Lao Sze Chuan [Official Site]

[Photo: Da Bing, Orange County Register]

Now On MenuPages: Cafe Marbella, Cafe Mediterra, The Grill, Noodles & Company, Rick's Cafe

Nothing brings us more joy than bringing you new menus! Here's what's on:

Cafe Marbella, Tapas, 3446 W Peterson Rd:

Tastiest Tapas - Higos Con Tocino (wrapped figs with bacon, served with brandy cream sauce), $6.95

Choice Quote - "With its combination of BYO status, easy parking, fabulous tapas and low prices, Marbella is easily the best new place I know for big convivial dinners on a wintry night." - Monica Eng, The Stew

Café Mediterra, Mediterranean, 728 S Dearborn St:

Savoriest Speciality - Kallayah (beef tenderloin tomato stew; prime tenderloin beef cubes sauteed with peppers, onions and fresh herbs), $12

Choice Quote - "I give that the food and drinks are very respectable, but I'm still angry this place gave up its homey, inviting feel for cafe roamers (back when it was Cafe Gourmand) in favor of doing itself up (or whatever) to be a more typical downtown establishment." - Seth M., Yelp

noodles & co indonesian saute.jpgThe Grill, American & Southern Catering, 1959 W 13th St:

Most Exciting Meat Option - tie between baked turkey legs and beef neck bones. Also, brown sugared ham. (Part of $17.95 per person catering menu)

Choice Quote - "Try the salmon croquettes, beef short ribs, and the honey baked turkey legs are to die for!" - a shill on MenuPages. Good try, guys!

Noodles & Company, global noodle shop, 180 N Michigan Ave:

Least Boring Noodle - Indonesian Peanut Saute (a spicy peanut sauce and rice noodle stir-fry with broccoli, carrots and cabbage. Asian sprouts, cilantro, crushed peanuts and lime on top. Tasty with chicken breast), $7.25 for a large with chicken. Probably Indonesian in name only. And shouldn't it be "satay"?

Choice Quote - "Nation's Restaurant News declared it a Hot Concepts! winner in 2001. Ernst & Young named Kennedy Entrepreneur of the Year in the "consumer products" category in 1993. ColoradoBiz magazine named it the top retail/wholesale company in Colorado in 2003." - Wikipedia

Rick's Cafe Chicago, French/Italian/Spanish (!), 3915 N Sheridan:

Most expensive entree - tie, Paella Valenciana (arborio rice, clams, mussels, salmon, sea scallops, shrimps and vegetables, seasoned with pure saffron and cooked in an authentic paella pan) and Filet Mignon (grilled and topped with our chef's red Bordeaux sauce with mashed potatoes), both $27.95

Choice Quote - "Rick's Cafe Chicago is a cozy and romantic, upscale, BYOB cafe featuring dishes from France, Italy, and Spain...18 years of dedicated experience!" - their website. Well, if they've been around 18 years, they must be doing something right. Like BYOB.

[Photo: Noodle & Company's infamous Indonesian Saute, from their website]

Tribune & Time Out Chicago: Mostly Round-Ups

liver and polenta.jpg

The Tribune and Time Out Chicago are both pretty light today with their food sections. At Play is mostly round-ups, which is neither here nor there. Phil Vettel continues to toot his own horn about Restaurant Week, as though he were the only one who thought it would be a good idea. But his review of Holy Mackerel in Lombard is benign enough, noting that the seafood restaurant (which has the strikes of "chain" and "hotel" against it) has a menu that changes daily and "always includes some not-the-usual-suspects, such as moonfish, opakapaka and recently cobia, which [Chef] Salgado splashed with a Spanish romesco sauce and a puree of orange cauliflower." Which is fine by us.

As long as we're on the subject of reviews...Glenn Jeffers and Chris Borelli Tablehopped at Ja' Grill and Schwa; since both reviews were on The Stew last week, we already covered them. Karen Budell barhops at The Filthy Libertine, Par Lounge and Patsy's Place. Lara Weber investigates prepared food options in Bucktown, sampling various soup, salad and sandwich options at The Goddess & Grocer and Olivia's Market. Both have a good selection, but Olivia's is more lunchy while G&G holds up better to a dinner appetite.

TOC checks in with a review for Il Fiasco and a "Save this restaurant" for Nelly's Saloon. David Tamarkin updates us on the changes at Il Fiasco, which bored him the first time he went last summer. The Andersonville Italian picked up chef Eric Aubriot, briefly of Alhambra Palace, who has fancified the menu in pleasing ways. Also, the service is disproportionately stellar, which is always a plus. As for Nelly's Saloon, it's an Avondale Romanian restaurant that has fallen on hard times. When the ethnic group your restaurant was built for moves away, it can be tough to keep a steady clientele whose tastes and loyalties vary widely. Once was, you'd sit down for your meal and coffee and cigarettes for hours, and many of those things are now improbable. But Nelly's is frequently cited as one of the best Romanian restaurants in Chicago, so it is certainly worth your while to investigate.

Truth: our favorite article in either section this week is Hayley Bierkle's "Three-way" on pickling. We've always like this feature, but this one was particularly impressive, featuring rice-wine vinegar-pickled pineapple, spiced vinegar-pickled banana "à la minute," and chestnut honey and white balsamic vinegar-pickled dates. Because nobody pickles vegetables anymore!

Finally, a booze article. It's actually TOC's section headliner: David Tamarkin rounds up Midwestern artisanal spirits, with the cutesy scale of how many miles it's worth driving to get, out of a hundred. It is basically just a simple score, although it's worth noting that the same metric is used on Roadfood; there, the number of miles it's worth driving to get to the given restaurant is actually a meaningful figure.

Ja' Grill [MenuPages]
Ja' Grill [Official Site]
Schwa [MenuPages]
Schwa [Official Site]
The Filthy Libertine [MenuPages]
The Filthy Libertine [Official Site]
The Goddess & Grocer [MenuPages]
The Goddess & Grocer [Official Site]
Il Fiasco [MenuPages]
Il Fiasco [Official Site]
Nelly's Saloon [MenuPages]

[Photo: Ficat de Pui cu Màmàligà si Usturoi,* a classic Romanian dish (aran but whothehellgivesadamn/flickr)]

* liver and polenta, yum. The polenta kind of looks like mango sorbet, right?

FYI: Stupid Energy Policies & Asian Intrigue

• Food inflation starting to change consumer and restaurant buying habits [Tribune]
• ConAgra and General Mills profits soar on high prices, cost-cutting [IHT]
• Ethanol causing food price spikes & shortages, and increased emissions [Bloomberg]
• Duh study: salty snacks encourage kids to drink sugary sodas! [AP]
• Dolphin and whale hunting in Japan imperiled by mercury. Lots of mercury [NYTimes]
• Increasingly senior Chinese officials apologizing to Japanese for food poisoning [AFP]
• Chinese Olympics officials upset over American decision to BYO food [AP]
• Also, they've banned outside food and beverages from Olympic Village! [Xinhua]

February 20, 2008

Tribune + Sun-Times: Heavy On The Nostalgia

tunnel of fudge.jpg

Today's Tribune and Sun-Times dining sections take a look back at food journalism from seasons past, but also to the future of how people get their recipes and such. Let's take a look, ten words at time (um...sometimes nine when the article is less than compelling):

• Six decades of Sun-Times' food coverage chart Americans' evolving mores [Sun-Times]
• Oscar Meyer (a $1 billion Kraft subsidiary) turns 125 this year [Sun-Times]
• Recipes, once passed orally or in cookbooks, now largely online [Tribune]
• Bill Daley pulls together a recipe website slideshow, to boot [Tribune]
• A 1980s botched onion tart teaches a lesson about caramelization [Sun-Times]
• What happens when people use the same recipes for decades [Sun-Times]
• OMG, people cannot get enough of scrapple, it would appear [Tribune]
• John Meyer, BJ's Market's chef/owner, can't best his mother's cooking [Sun-Times]
• The movies, they have food in them! Especially "Ratatouille" [Tribune]
• Mexican hot chocolate: always go with the original product [Sun-Times]
• Frozen apple pies: are they as good as fresh-baked? Not really [Tribune]
• Hilariously-named "Tunnel of Fudge" cake actually sounds delicious [Sun-Times]

[Photo: A glorious cross-section of the Tunnel of Fudge, Axis of Ævil]

Hot Deals Downtown: Wednesday Food & Drink Specials

special_Wednesday.jpg Hump day, blah blah blah, we don't have to try very hard to convince you to consume your way out of midweek misery. Here are six deals around Downtown (roughly from 22nd St to North Ave, east of the river) that you can't get any other day of the week:

17/West has the same special Wednesdays and Fridays, which is mildly suspicious. It entails a tasting of three featured bourbons (tonight are Buffalo Trace, W.L. Weller, and Eagle Rare - not a bad line-up) for $7.

Bella Lounge has probably the coolest Wednesday special of all: it's "Pretty Night," and from 7pm to 10pm, $40 buys you some combination of manicures, massages, martinis (purposefully alliterative!), sushi and flatbread. Probably not a singles scene, unless you're really slick. But awesome nonetheless.

Downtown Dogs discounts bratwurst and fries to $4.50 on Wednesdays. This would be a perfect thing to do before your manicure/massage.

Kasey's Tavern sells freakin' $2 well drinks on Wednesdays from all six major booze groups: vodka, gin, rum, whiskey, scotch, and tequila!

Rosebud Steakhouse serves baby calves' liver with bacon and onions on Wednesdays. Which is like manna from heaven, and a great color palette for a hip leather calf-skin jacket. Yes. But ideally from the very same calf!

Weather Mark Tavern's Wednesday deal consists of a 12" pizza (choice of cheese, spinach, or sausage & mushroom) for $8.95, plus $2 domestic bottles.

[Photo: Eddie's Gourmet Pizza]

FYI: Industrial Food Chain Looking A Little Tattered These Days

• Americans pissed about that untrustworthy food supply thing [TheStreet]
• Europe enacts regulations to test Chinese food imports for GMOs [TIME]
• In other China news, their food inflation is everyone's inflation [Guardian]
• FAO debating merits of the 1400 insect species humans eat [AFP]
• Chicago food giants Kraft & Sara Lee succeeding in turnaround efforts [Tribune]
• Next up: molecular gastronomy in your cocktails [NYTimes]

February 19, 2008

White Palace: A Viewing Pleasure Appreciation

White Palace Grill, the 24 hour diner on the corner of Roosevelt and Canal, has been inspiring photographers for years with its timeless simplicity and compelling mis-en-place. In light of its recent surge* in popularity, here's a little homage to its pictorial history:

Sears Tower, YoChicago1/flickr: