Usually when reviewers declare a restaurant or a dish to be "the best" in Chicago or the world or in the history of space and time, they are talking out of their asses. Anyone with the breadth of experience to be able to credibly make such a claim would never have the audacity to actually do so. And if they did, it would be with qualifying remarks that show some self-awareness of the subjectivity of the opinion. For better or worse, none of these strictures apply to MenuPages reviewers! So, then, here are some of the "bests" of the past week:

• On June 26th, "Christi" claimed that Aroy Thai has the "Best Thai food ever":

I'm a picky eater and definitely a Thai food snob, and this place is fantastic! Now, if only they would expand their space to accommodate me and my friends and family, then I would be the happiest customer.

• On the same day, "Chuck Debbie Glen Alexis and Danielle" had a conference and decided that Zen Noodles is the "Best of the best in Chi-town Panasian":

Parking was not too bad and the food was simply the best We've ever had. We did it "Family Style" and got to try several different things in one shot. We had one vegan in the bunch and she was floored by the "Tofu Saute', especially the peanut sauce. The rest of us had different favorites of the four dishes we shared. The Green Curry Chicken was voted in at #1, a blend of green curry coconut sauce with Thai Basil leaves, veggies and chicken. A close second was the "Rama Chicken", a plate of cooked broccoli and chicken covered by a peanut sauce that is "out of this world good"(sounds simple but what's wrong with that). Surprisingly in at third was my original favorite, when it was Hi Riki's(sp?), "Basil Chicken". which is a dish flavored by what has become one of my favorite spices, Thai Basil. In at #4 was "Garlic Shrimp" which is a spicy blend of a garlic sauce covering perfectly sauteed shimp and other good things( can't remember). We were in Chicago for a week and I have to say that Chicago does live up to its reputation as one of the best restaurant cities in America. That's what should make our endorsement of "Zen Noodles" even more exciting for lovers of PanAsian food. Can't wait get back Chicago and Zen Noodles. Oh yeah, the serving sizes were fairly generous and the price was what you'd expect to pay in any city in the country.

• On June 27th, "Kenneth & Isik" judged Cousin's to have "The Best Lehmacun in North America":

My wife and I live in Minnesota. We drive 6 plus hours just to eat Demir Bey's lehmacun and pide. It is truly the best you will find in the USA. We been to several different restaurants that provides Turkish cuisine, but have never found anything that compares to Demir's. However, the most important of all he always make time to greet and have a chat with us.

• Also on the 27th, "bklyn" wrote a short review for Arturo's Tacos entitled "Great":

The Shrimp soup and Chorizo Tacos here are the best!!!! The price is right too.

• Finally, on the 30th, "Pat P." unilaterally declared the "BEST DONUTS EVER" to be from Old Fashioned Donuts:

I have been eating these donuts since 1973, and I have not tasted anything near these great tasting donuts. If you have not tried them you should . Not only do they have good donuts, they also have good food. The polishes and fries are to die for. Now that I live out of town, I only get them when I visit the city.

[Photo: Arturo's Tacos al pastor, via Fancy Toast (who calls them the best in Chicago, for what it's worth)]

• One of Chicago's more successful Peruvian restaurants, Ay Ay Picante impressed Bridget & Tammy enough to earn a 17/20 [Chicago Bites]

• Most of the restaurants participating in Kid's Restaurant Week excreted out the same mac and cheese that parents spend the rest of the year avoiding, but Coco Pazzo Cafe put some effort into it and made real adult dishes tweaked toward younger palates [Drive-Thru]

• For fried chicken without the leaden aftereffects, try Crisp's light and crispy Korean preparation [Chicagoist]

• It's a shame that Drake Bros.' Bookbinders soup is made with red snapper instead of turtle like in good old days, but it's very tasty anyway [Hungry]

• Super-healthy built-to-order salad spot Freshii is a good idea in theory, but the slow service and tasteless results make it less appealing in practice [Stew]

• Early word from graham elliot is, they're still finding their sea legs with respect to service, but you can't argue with their fat, juicy pork chops [Food Chain]

• A fabulous piece of parrotfish, among many other dishes at L.2O, succeeds at impressing...even if the dish's description was overwraught and possibly inaccurate [Food Chain]

• Pairing culinary minimalism with scratch cooking and a sophisticated sensibility about ingredients, Mado has been winning the affection of foodies and the praise of critics in the few months it's been open [Drive-Thru, Gourmet (the latter adapted from TOC)]

• While Margie's Candies may have gotten accolades in Forbes for having the best ice cream in Chicago, our local food corps has vehemently disagreed; just because a place is old and cramped doesn't mean it's great, and did you know that the science of ice cream-making has improved dramatically since the Depression? [Drive-Thru, Serious Eats Chicagoist]

• The vanilla-on-vanilla cupcake at Swirlz Cupcakes disappoints, but specialty flavors like Key Lime make a trip worthwhile [Chicago Bites]

[Photo: wonder what the fortune was...via mousiekm/flickr]

Reviews galore on this, the very last Friday of our employ. Oh yes, it's true; Independence Day will take on a myriad of meanings this year. (Don't worry! We're not abandoning our post for anything less lofty than post-graduate education, with the goal of yet increasing our insufferability.)

But enough about us; Mike Sula, David Hammond, and Pat Bruno have things to say about Pho Xua, Lincoln Korean Restaurant, Taqueria La Oaxaqueña, Ecuador Restaurant, L.2O, and Veerasway, respectively. They will soldier on, sowing the seeds of restaurant knowledge in the rich soils of their Chicagoland readership, whether we're here to criticize them or not. So let's get to it.

While much of the Reader is devoted to Best Of Chicago 2008 this week, there's still an Omnivorous, containing some of Mike Sula and David Hammond's favorite cheap ethnic eats.

Sula shouts out Pho Xua as an alternative to the hegemonic Hai Yen on Argyle Street, and is down with their Chinese-influenced, house-braised pork belly. He finds unusual accessibility at Lincoln Korean Restaurant on...Lincoln, of course, although actually, only 40% of the restaurants in our database with the word "Lincoln" in the name are actually on Lincoln Avenue — the rest are in Lincoln Park. We're escaping our point, though which is that Lincoln Korean has all the authenticity of those Lawrence Avenue no-English DIY places, but with the straightforward ordering process of, say, a Korean restaurant in...Lincoln Park. Finally, Taqueria la Oaxaqueña serves the fine cuisine of Oaxaca (i.e. mole, on rabbit no less!) at truly Mexican prices.

Hammond tell us that Restaurant Ecuador in Logan Square dabbles more in the country's coastal culinary tradition than that of the interior highlands. You can get black clam ceviche there, which is really all you need to know.

Bruno has a two-fer in the Sun-Times today, slobbering all over L.2O — he has good company in this respect — but coming in fourth, doesn't bring much new information to the table. Actually, not true! He's included a glossary of fancy words on L.2O's menu that we can't say we didn't enjoy reading. However, we must take issue with Bruno's theory that L.2O has "what is probably the shortest restaurant name ever;" on the North Side alone one can find Tut, Zia and Zad, and T's puts them all to shame.

Bruno also visits upscale Indian fusion spot Veerasway, which doesn't seem to...resolve its station in life to satisfaction. Like, why is the mutter paneer $14 when it's just peas and cheese? Then again, Bruno doesn't bother telling us how it compares to budget Indian places, so we're not really sure what to make of his judgment in this case. Speaking of, possibly our final pet peeve about Bruno's reviewing style is that he never writes a conclusion to his pieces. They end with the dessert, to be sure, but there's no tying together of the various strains of opinion littered throughout the reviews; the reader needs to have a takeaway, and Bruno never provides a succinct one. This is probably due to the fact that his reviews lack a thesis, generally. Pat, we have no idea if you've ever read any of this, but all we want to do is help!

Okay, have a good weekend; next week, daily teary goodbyes...

Taqueria La Oaxaquena [MenuPages]
L.2O [MenuPages]
L.2O [Official Site]
Veerasway [MenuPages]

[Photo: grilled cactus at Taqueria la Oaxaqueña, via ohtoberich/flickr]

A restaurant can have fabulous food and an awesome atmosphere (bear with us), but snotty service can truly sink the ship. But the converse — where stupendous service solidifies a stellar experience — is just as plausible.

Okay, that was terrible! But the point is, many reviewers latch on to the merits of a particular server or chef, and make them the focus of their reviews. Observe the following three cases:

• On June 18th at the suspicious hour of 3AM, "Gilbert" left a review entitled "Best server" for Smith & Wollensky:

I ate at the Grill at Smith and Wollensky and had the most delightful server, a sincere, funny, intelligent and knowledgable young man named Dan. It was myself and 5 business associates, he knew how to read our table, he knew the menu very well, had many good suggestions. He was attentive but not obtrusive. He was funny and interesting, He made our evening amazing. If you go to Smith and Wollensky be sure to eat in the Grill and make sure Dan takes care of you if he is working that evening...

• A few hours later, "Dionna" implored the world to "Get a Roberto Roll" at Midori:

I previously reviewed this Sushi joint but have decided to add on to it. Robert has been with Midori for almost 19 years and it shows. He's awesome at what he does. He makes this tasty roll called the Roberto Roll that you just have to taste to believe. Please don't ask what's on it. I couldn't tell you. I devour this thing the second the plate is laid in front of me. Spicy, sweet, taste bud popping goodness. I am not just whistling dixie here. You know those times where you take a bite of something and the sides of your cheeks hurt from the flavor pop? This is it. I have never been disappointed dining here. Not once. Also, treat yourself to a Roberto Martini. It's tingly good,too.
I can leave here spending under 20 bucks if I skip the drink but why?

• Finally, in the most shilly-but-probably-not-a-shill review from June 23rd, "Alan" calls Cyrano's Bistrot "A corner of Paris in Chicago":

No matter what city I am in, I always look for a good French restaurant. After having tried six or seven such in Chicago that ranged from mediocre to rather good, I finally hit on Cyrano's. It is not only the best French restaurant in the city, it is one of the best I have found outside of France.
The menu includes more than the touristy type dishes like steaks frites and confit du canard, although they are available as well. Rognons de veau, a connoisseur's delight, is delicious. Chef Didier even promised he would make me coeurs de canard (hearts of duck) if I would call in advance. That is a dish I have seen on a menu and eaten only once- in a restaurant in Nantes.
The wine list is just the right size and features many selections from chef Didier's home region of Languedoc. The prices are reasonable and the service friendly and personable without being intrusive. The atmosphere is authentic and convivial, a little corner of Paris in the heart of Chicago, but well away from too touristy Michigan Avenue.

1) No shill for a French restaurant is so masochistic as to deride their steak frites and confit du canard, even as obliquely as this

2) The reference to Nantes' duck hearts is too awesome for a shill to generate

3) Trustable people en masse (i.e. LTHForum) seem to like Cyrano's

4) Okay, the namecheck of Languedoc is a bit suspect, but whatever

We're satisfied that "Alan" is satisfied.

Smith & Wollensky [MenuPages]
Smith & Wollensky [Official Site]
Midori [MenuPages]
Cyrano's Bistrot [MenuPages]
Cyrano's Bistrot [Official Site]

[Photo: a pile of duck hearts in China, via tconn1/flickr]

This cheeseburger dress is the coolest thing that's ever been knitted. The artist, Joy Kampia O'Shell, has created several of these one-of-a-kind pieces, and they are the real thing (i.e., wearable). Could you imagine actually sashaying into a burger joint with this on? Let's take a stab at it:

Places Where This Dress Would Help

• Hamburger Mary's would probably let you eat and drink free for the night, or possibly even join the stage show. You'd be signing autographs left and right! Extra points here for creative stowage of your pickle

• Kuma's Corner has a notoriously long line during peak times...unless you were wearing this dress. Because you know what? Dressing as your dinner is pretty f'n metal. The waitresses would clear a berth for you at the bar, and maybe someone would even whistle appreciatively! Probably better to be a lady for this one, though — metal has its limits

Places Where This Dress Wouldn't Help

• Boston Blackies' touristic clientele might think you were a charming fixture of Chicago cosmopolitanism, and the sports fans glued to the big TV in the back might not even notice your presence. But the suburban children milling about the place will call as much attention to you as their whiny little voices and flailing limbs allow them. You may not get the best seat in the house

• Billy Goat Tavern Original at least gives you a chance at making the papers, but not in a good way

On the whole, we say, worth it.

[Photo: Joy Kampia]

We love it when reviewers disagree! This way, you don't know what to think. Actually, that's overstating the case: given two contradictory reviews, we'd tend toward the one that's better argued and more recent. For these pairs of reviews for Santullo's Eatery and Kuma's Corner, where do you fall?

• Re: Santullo's Eatery — is the staff actually chill?

On June 12, at 10:18PM, "cara" posted a review entitled "good tunes yummy food!":

This place has great deals! Not to mention the 2.75 frosty mugs of beer YUM! Great music, and the staff is really chill!

Just about 21 hours later, "Anonymous" snarls, "New York Style Attitude... not pizza":

They have a $2/slice special between 4-6. I get on line before 6 and didn't get to order until afterwards because their credit card machine goes down. After paying $9+ for a cheese slice, a pepperoni slice and a soda, I state my case for a $2 slice. The cashier's response was that the computer controls the price and, "well, that's just too bad." 5 minutes later, I find that my pizza wasn't even in the oven yet! The only thing that kept me sane was knowing that I'll never have to go back in there again.

On top of that, there was a poor lady who asked for the orange soda at the fountain to be fixed. I ate my pizza at the restaurant and didn't see anyone go to look at it.

Miserable experience aside, the pizza wasn't terrible. It doesn't compare to the pizza in NY and it is pricey for a slice. If I wasn't treated like crap, would have maybe considered going back.

Verdict: the staff is probably rather chill, except when confronted with angry, entitled New Yorkers. Also, we have a sudden, inexplicable craving for orange soda.

• Re: Kuma's Corner —

Back in the Stone Age (i.e. early 2007), "miggs" left a review entitled "Fine place":

Does anyone suspect that these other reviews were written by people who own or work at Kuma's? It's a fine place, but it's not the gourmet extravaganza that these other reviews are making out to be.

An excited response entitled "SO YOU THINK YOU'RE READY FOR THIS?!" was penned by "METALFOREVER" on June 15th:

Apparently the person that suggested that the reviews posted are the employees reads alot of conspiracy novels, lives in the basement of their grandparents house, doesn't know value and eats McDonald's for lunch every day. Kuma's Burgers are REDICULOUS!!! I had the SLAYER burger and I have to say my arteries loved it but my cardiologist was super mad at me. I mean the menu tells us that the Slayer burger's main ingredient is ANGER. My friends had the Iron Maiden and others but none of the plates were as angry as the one in front of me. Fresh ingredients right down to the avacado slices, resonable prices for each entree, the calamari was bitchin' and the beer was delicious. The options were endless. Somebody needs a napkin that's for sure. AWESOME- even though it's usually packed full of people. Get a life if you don't love this place.

Verdict: well, Kuma's has definitely evolved over 18 months, so METALFOREVER is being unfair with the McDonald's comparison (on the other hand, miggs may have too narrow a definition of "gourmet extravaganza"). As for the basement-dwelling conspiracy nut charge, there's definitely occasional justification to believe that a review is a shill; as hard as we try to block them, shills occasionally get through. However, having reread the prior reviews for Kuma's, we've determined that all of them are genuine. METALFOREVER loses points for spelling RIDICULOUS (among other things) incorrectly, but has done a reasonable job capturing the spirit of Kuma's, for better or worse.

[Photo: IN YOUR FACE (Led Zeppelin burger with soggy fries at Kuma's), via mbwa kahawa/flickr]

Okay, truth time: how many non-Irish non-English majors have actually read James Joyce's epic monster, Ulysses? The book, which takes place entirely on June 16th, 1904, is considered to be one of the greatest English-language novels ever written, covering a day in the life of one Leopold Bloom, Dubliner. Every June 16th for the past fifty years or so, the Irish and literature lovers around the world have celebrated Bloomsday with Ulysses readings and (drunken) merriment. It's like St. Patrick's Day, but with the patina of culture!

Here in Chicago, your Bloomsday celebratory options are myriad, so let's lay out one possible scenario:

1) The Irish American Heritage Center in the far reaches of Irving Park is hosting a Bloomsday reading, with music, tonight at 8pm. Tickets are $10 at the door.

2) Pub time! Northwest Side, please:

• The Abbey Pub has great Irish bar snacks like Curry Fries ($3.95), or if you want something more filling, a Curried Chicken Pie ($8.95) would fit the bill. And if you think curry isn't indigenous to Ireland, think again.

• Chief O'Neill's Pub is famous for its Irish cuisine, and its menu is more oriented toward the Emerald Isle than most so-called Irish pubs. Try a cup of Guinness & Cheddar Soup ($4) and a full pound of braised lamb shank with root vegetables ($16.95), and don't regret a minute of it — your arteries will forgive you in your next life

• Galvin's Public House has the virtue of being relatively nearby the IAHC on Lawrence and Austin. Other virtues include their all-day service of traditional Irish Breakfast, with two eggs, two bangers, two rashers, black & white pudding, grilled tomato, Irish beans, fries & toast for $8.50. Of course, "all day" ends at 9pm when the kitchen closes, so use your time wisely.

3) Stumble to bed, promising yourself that this is the year you'll finally read Ulysses.

[Photo: a James Joyce-themed Irish pub in suburban Atlanta of all places, via tmac0381/flickr]

What we don't like about Pat Bruno's review of Takashi is similar to what we didn't like about Phil Vettel's review yesterday for Tallulah. Both amount to a laundry list of the restaurants' dishes with very little analysis and virtually no criticism. Even if they're helpful — in the travel guide sense — to diners, they're awful reviews for the casual reader.

Restaurant reviews without context, be it historical, social, gustatorial or even personal, are really boring. If we want to know how each dish tastes, we'll go to a blog or message board where we're likely to find pictures that are even more helpful than the prose. What Vettel and Bruno are doing in these merely descriptive reviews (which is not to say that all of their reviews are like this) doesn't add much value to the discourse.

Meanwhile, Mike Sula has found an entertaining foil for his Omnivorous piece in the form of Carole Travis-Henikoff, an "independent scholar and gastronomist" who just wrote a scholarly book about cannibalism. Basically, the book argues that cannibalism has been an accepted practice across cultures throughout human history, and as a side note, may have contributed to the downfall of Neanderthals (eat brains, get prions, Mad Neanderthal Disease). We're left wondering about "gastronomic cannibalism," all the more titillating for its illegality and immorality and potential deliciousness.

Less controversially, the Reader has a round-up of al fresco dining spots.

Takashi [MenuPages]
Takashi [Official Site]

[Photo: soylent beige, via Vancouver Vegan Association/flickr]

p.s. the title of Sula's cannibalism article, "From Roast Pig to Long Pig," is a reference to a slang term for human meat.

This week is very foodie concept-oriented, even if it doesn't always deliver.

• Mike Nagrant rounds up Albany Park, of one of Chicago's best dining neighborhoods, where you can flit from Central American to Middle Eastern to Korean without breaking a sweat (at least in the winter) [TOC]

• We love this cocktail feature with Sepia's Peter Vestinos. This week, he's recommending a strawberry pisco sour. Once, in Lima, we had a coca pisco sour — it was very strong [TOC]

• The couple behind Mado like head-to-tail pork, Kuma's Corner, and the New Pornographers. Totally! [TOC]

• Monica Eng compiles a ranking of Chicago's chain store iced coffees. Seattle's Best wins, with Starbucks coming in second. No artisanal ice coffees are included in the piece, which is disappointing. And where's the requisite shout-out to cold-brewed ice coffee? Oh well [Tribune]

• This photo gallery of the iced coffees is strange, but archival and informative. Plus, Eng sneaks in a few artisanal iced coffees, after all. Don't let Zell hold you down! [Tribune]

• Phil Vettel gets in a lengthy post-Beard interview with Grant Achatz, and it's informative. Well, not really; we've heard a lot of this stuff from Grant before. But still, of the moment! [Tribune]

• Christopher Borrelli continues his love affair with breakfast in this mash note to oatmeal. Borrelli has uncovered a rare subspecies of the pan-seared suburban variety, and goes on to describe the "perfect summer oatmeal" [Tribune]

And the reviews:

• Phil Vettel can't get enough of Tallulah, the Lincoln Square New American bistro. He lists the dishes he likes (most of them) and doesn't (...) in a fairly straightforward manner to drive his point home [Tribune]

• David Tamarkin goes to Viaggio, formerly Jay's Amore (note to restaurants: please keep your Fax ID up-to-date! We can't tell you how many restaurants have sent us menus with the space's previous tenant on the header; Viaggio's menu will be online tomorrow), and finds a serious Italian feast in progress. We're kept in suspense for the entire review about the gravy, which turns out to be delicious and monstrous in portion [TOC]

[Photo: this oatmeal cookie ice cream sandwich is our preferred summer oatmeal treatment, via jen_m_stewart/flickr]

• Above-ground underground tasting menu at Bonsoiree keeps 'em coming back for more, Saturday after Saturday [TastyBeat]

• Everyone who's gone to graham elliot, which has only been open a week and a half or so at this point, has raved (or at least mostly raved). We're excited to see who has the first formal review [Chicagoist]

• In the summer, it's hard to turn down one of Karyn's Raw sandwiches; they're the right temperature, the vegetables are fresh, and they'll wash down all that BBQ you've been inhaling [Chicagoist]

• What do you make of Kuma's Corner's foie gras burger that comes with a donation to MADD? Also, this reviewer thought the fries were a little overseasoned [Drive-Thru]

• The classic American bar food at Midtown Kitchen + Bar isn't very good, but it beats the service by some distance [Gastronomic Bypass]

• At Shaw's Crab House, portions are generous, flavors are solid but bold, and the service is classy [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Another whole-hearted endorsement of Take Me Out's super-spicy Asian hot wings [Chicagoist]

[Photo: Grant Achatz wins!!! via AP]

A hundred zillion new reviews hit the presses today for restaurants new and old, major and minor.

Even Pat Bruno can't muster too much excitement for uninspired All-You-Can-Meat ZED451. He chides:

But a lot of what they offered was either dry (the chicken and the pork) or not hot enough (the mahi-mahi) or rather tasteless. Zed 451 should consider putting an assortment of sauces on the table and guiding the customer accordingly.

Meanwhile, the Reader's featuring three reviews for notable mid-scale openings. Mike Sula had the same reaction to Mado that David Tamarkin did: everything is seasonal, fresh, delicious and occasionally overpriced, and it's impossible to recommend individual dishes because they'll be off the menu by publication date. Still, certainly an endorsement!

Anne Spiselman quite likes fancy new Indian restaurant Veerasway, although the appetizers and sides seem to best the entrees. David Hammond wants to make sure we realize that Mixteco Grill is not just your run-of-the-mill taco joint. Instead, pan-Mexican mole madness! Or something to that effect.

As if that wasn't enough, the Reader also published a slew of new reviews for evidently less notable restaurants like Big Jones, Park 52 and Shochu, which have been given big play in other publications. One wonders how feature-vs.-supplement decisions are made...

[Photo: salmon cucumber nage at Veerasway, via kayovv/flickr]

We don't mind when legitimate reviewers are absolutely in love with a particular restaurant, and choose MenuPages to share that love with the world. Here are three short paeans from the past week:

• "Delicious" wrote a review for The Gage on 5/27 entitled "Outstanding":

After 2 weeks of substandard fare and service, Gage, restored my faith in American cusine. Definitely in my top 5 best ever meals. Can't wait to go back

• On 5/29, "Mrs. Adrienne" contributed a review entitled "Excellent 5.0" for Miss Lee's Good Food:

I have visited Miss Lee Good Food on several occassions and the food is always great. The workers and the owner is very friendly. The customers are very found of Miss Lee good southern home cooking. Miss Lee will also give you the receipes to any of her dishes, most people who cook dont like to give out there receipes. I pray that god will continue to buisness her buisness.

• 5/30 brought an anonymous first review for Mado entitled "fresh, seasonal, delicious!":

Everything is market and farm fresh, so flavorful, and cooked to perfection. The wood grilled whole trout is amazing, as is the shortbread and dates with ricotta, coffee, and walnuts.

[Photo: an elk saddle at The Gage. American enough for you? via Zesmerelda/flickr]

Because of Memorial Day (which we spent remembering Trapped in the Closet scene by scene), here are two weeks' worth of blog reviews for your consideration

• Brunch generally a good bet at New Southern Big Jones, but make sure your beignets are freshly fried [TOC Blog]

• Despite all the promise of organic/local/seasonal ingredients at the newly-reworked Cafe at Wild Things! at the Lincoln Park Zoo, most of the food is conventionally sourced, and crappy to boot [The Stew]

• The only thing worth eating at Deta's Cafe is the burek, but it's so worth eating, wow [The Stew]

• A vegan can survive at Epic Burger on the hot, oily fries. Also, they make mushroom burgers [Drive-Thru]

• At not-too-expensive Frontera Grill, you can sample what made Rick Bayless famous without feeling like you bought the farm [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Fondue is romantic per the obvious sexual symbolism, and Geja's Cafe continues to be up to the task of providing that kind of atmosphere [Chicagoist]

• Despite being in soft opening, graham elliot churns out a flawless haute comfort experience [Chicago Foodies]

• Hard to do better than Hai Yen for casual Vietnamese south of Argyle [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Seafood temple L.2O is successfully bridging the gap between haute and molecular gastronomy (and worth the money) [Hungry]

• A largely positive assessment of chef-driven Mado recommends the antipasti and chicken dishes [Chicagoist]

• Many mixed reviews for Mundial Cocina Mestiza (although this one's positive), but the one thing they all agree on is the BYOB policy [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Another vote for the "Park 52 is fine by Hyde Park standards, so-so by Jerry Kleiner standards, and not worth the trip in either case" ticket [Food Chain]

• South Side culinary school restaurant The Parrot Cage is tasty and affordable, but the 9/20 rating from Bridget and Tammy means it won't change your life [Chicago Bites]

• Cell phone-free Perry's Deli in the Loop makes an excellent classic sandwich with turkey, ham, and the undersung Russian dressing [Chicagoist]

• New American bistro Tallulah gets 11/20 from Bridget and Tammy, but the potential for greatness is there [Chicago Bites]

[Photo: R. Kelly pretending to be ice cream in a waffle cone; "pls lik me?" via TheBestGossip]

Welcome to the giant food media roundup, where we see what's hot — and what's to trot — in Chicago right now.

• Lisa Shames reports that smart chefs are now using "food glue" in everyday dishes; it's not just for molecular gastronomists anymore [TOC]

• Bill Daley's let's-ask-top-Chicago-chefs-for-gourmet-off-beat-hot-dog-recipes idea was a pretty good one. But we have to say, Charlie Trotter's Asian seared tuna dog is not going to happen outside of a whimsical high-low restaurant [Tribune]

• Chuck Sudo dumbs himself down to Sun-Times readership level for a roundup of barbecue places that have opened in the past year. Can you imagine not knowing about these places (Smoque, Honky Tonk) the second they open, at the latest? Ah, ignorance is bliss [Sun-Times]

• Michael Tsonton of copperblue reminds you that fresh spices are just as important as fresh produce and meat and what have you [Sun-Times]

• Monica Eng knows that now is the time for frozen custards. She investigates the treat's tentative foray into the city limits [Tribune]

• Graham Elliot's eponymous new restaurant is opening imminently. Get excited! [TOC]

• Last week, we missed Mike Sula's profile on Willi Lehner, possibly Wisconsin's most famous cheesemaker at the moment. New to us: spraying dirt on cheese makes it delicious [Reader]

And the reviews:

• Both Phil Vettel and Heather Shouse go to Shochu, the Asian tapas lounge. These two reviews are a little more sober than previous ones, highlighting the restaurant's reasonable value while faulting some of the dishes for being boring. Still, it's good for the neighborhood [TOC, Trib]

• David Tamarkin is quite smitten with Mado, the new chef-driven seasonal American in Bucktown. They have an ever-changing menu that is fabulous when everything is cooked right, which is most of the time, but should something go wrong, the super-simple fare has little pomp and circumstance to fall back on [TOC]

• Denise O'Neal takes a much less critical route than Heather Shouse did when she reviewed Park 52 a few weeks back. O'Neal finds the food — mostly standard Kleiner upscale comfort — "worth the trip," while Shouse pointedly does not [Sun-Times]

[Photo: mmm...enzymes, via wurmouroboros/flickr]

It is your patriotic duty to eat barbecue at some point this weekend. Perhaps you'll do so at a party with friends and family, but failing that, we've compiled a slideshow of worthy barbecue from around the city, and nearby parks where you can picnic. The park photos are from Microsoft's new Live Maps "Bird's eye" feature; hopefully they won't sue us for using them!

Rib tips from Honey 1 BBQ, via andrewc:

Humboldt Park is a short drive away:

Three more pairings, after the jump...

Continue reading "Viewing Pleasure: Barbecue And The Parks In Which To Eat It" »

The Sun-Times restaurant section is weird. This is not a new story, but it's told a different way each week. First, Bruno reviews the newest location of the Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar chain on Ohio Street, and finds it utterly uninteresting. Although not in so many words! While his steak seems overpriced and mediocre, Bruno still writes from the perspective of, okay, if you go, at least this and that will be alright. Where is the line between service journalism and reviewing for Bruno, exactly?

Another piece of his this week makes the distinction even less clear. His write-up of Carlos' in Highland Park begins: "The quote below is lifted word for word from the Carlos' Web site (there is no way I could say it any better)." And indeed, more than half the words on the page are from the restaurant website (excuse us, "Web site"). That's kind of crazy, when you think about it!

Finally, Bruno's microreview of The Gage is pegless (why now?) and bizarrely brief considering how much he seems to like the hopping gastropub ("But the food here is so good, it has a way of drowning out the noise.") So why does he devote so many more words to Flemings? Because it's new, yes, but you get the point.

Back in normal land (i.e. on the Reader), there are a bunch of reviews pertinent to your life. Because it's barbecue weekend! Mike Sula and Gary Wiviott highlight four of their favorites (Uncle John's BBQ, Lem's, Cole’s Choice Barbecue, and Honey 1 BBQ), and then tack on a whole mess of other BBQ reviews for reference. By the way, does anyone go to Fat Willy's anymore? We hear they've gone way downhill.

[Photo: Gary Wiviott knows what he's talking about; these are his ribs, via MMChicago]

We got a review in yesterday afternoon from user ".............." for John's Pizzeria in Bucktown that made a rather audacious claim:

So I just moved to chicago and my roommate told how John's Pizzaria has great food. So I decided to try it out and called to order some food. The lady who answered the phone was rude and tells me they don't take delivery orders from out of town numbers. I tell her I just moved here and this is the only phone I have to use, she goes well I don't know what to tell you. SERIOUSLY !! You would rather lose a customer and money because you don't want to take an out town number.WOW! I just though that was pretty lame..................................

Well then! All this is very strange and stupid. First of all, is the computer ordering system really not sufficiently customizable to allow other area codes to be entered? Second, a recent study showed that upwards of 30% of U.S. households rely on cell phones exclusively, and this figure rises rapidly with youth. Aside from college neighborhoods, we're hard-pressed to think of an area of Chicago that would likely have a higher percentage of non-local cellphone users. We're as shocked as ".............." that John's would willingly and willfully abandon the business of such a significant (and presumably pizza delivery-oriented) demographic.

This is not the first time we've registered complaints about John's delivery service. Last April, "bri" wrote:

Pizza is fantastic, delivery service is decent-- it comes pretty quick, but the answering service is rather rude. a simple "thank you for your order/business" goes a LONG way-- there was NONE of this.

pizza is phenomenal. delivery is quick, but just had a rude obnoxious driver tonight with a minor mistake on order. Told me RC had no sugar and it was better for someone who has blood sugar problems than regular diet. Crazy or just a liar you decide

John's Pizzeria [MenuPages]
More people depend solely on cell phones [SFChron]

[Photo: apparently so! via hwayoungjung]

• Attached to Ada's Famous Deli in the Loop is 14 Karat Lounge, which features the deli's full menu, and booze! [Drive-Thru]

• If you like Eastern European breadstuffs, try the khachpuri cheese bread at Argo Georgian Bakery on Devon [Drive-Thru]

• Cheap, wonderful soul food secretly available at Doggy's S.S. Soul Eatery on the West Side, if you don't mind flying under the radar [Food Chain]

• Still somewhat new Just Indulge is very obliging with its vegan ice cream cones [Drive-Thru]

• Despite the kitsch, Harry Caray's Restaurant is not a tourist trap and has good service [Gastronomic Bypass]

• River North Middle Easterner Kan Zaman does not bring it on the hummus, forcing Bridget & Tammy to assign it a 7/20 [Chicago Bites]

• So far, nothing but unbridled ardor for L.2O, the new seafood restaurant so surpassingly good that you can't even snark on its LEYEness [Hungry, Stew]

• Don't let its modest setting fool you; La Gondola is some seriously hearty and decidedly tasty Italian [Chicago Foodies]

• Another condonation of Lao Sze Chuan's xiao long bao, and also their short ribs [Chicago Foodies]

• Reviews go both ways for Mundial Cocina Mestiza, but this one is pretty positive. Extra points for BYOB [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Fax-machineless and much-liked brunch spot Over Easy certainly impress Bridget & Tammy, who give it a 15/20 [Chicago Bites]

• Embattled New American Sweets & Savories totally drops the ball on its Kobe burger for one reviewer [Chicago Burger Project]

[Photo: geese in a Chicago parking lot, fearless and ignorant, via beartnow/flickr]

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• While some of the appetizers are quite tasty, Big Jones isn't ackin' its Southerness sufficiently for this very opinionated reviewer [Chicago Gluttons]

• After renovations, Bob San is back to being a comfortable, high-quality neighborhood sushi spot [Chicago Foodies]

• Is Brasserie Ruhlmann a secret bargain dinner? Raves about beautifully prepared, giant portions make it seem that way! [Gastronomic Bypass]

• While not everybody has expressed joy at Honky Tonk Barbeque's offerings, their beef brisket sandwich is apparently pretty tasty [Chicagoist]

• What's not to like about a family-run Costa Rican BYOB? If you go to Irazu, the steak sandwich is recommended [TastyBeat]

• A giant fire came and took Manee Thai away! Hopefully they will overcome [TOC Blog]

• Kitschy sports memorabilia aside, Mike Ditka's serves more-than-adequate classic American pub fare [Chicago Foodies]

• Wicker Park yuppiehole Moonshine is great place for a soggy burger and tequila shots spilled on your person [Gastronomic Bypass]

• High rents killed Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe's retail front, but you can still buy the confections online [Chicagoist]

• The silkiest tripe in the city may be at Nelly's Saloon, a Northwest Side Romanian restaurant that occasionally screens the local version of Dancing with the Stars, and is never as crowded as Kuma's Corner [Hungry Magazine]

• An utterly generic burger awaits you at Riverview Tavern, very much not a foodie destination [Chicago Burger Project]

• A flowery review for Asian small plates lounge newcomer Shochu, which focuses on the eponymous tipple. Not that we doubt it's good! [Chicagoist]

• German beer garden? Well, okay, you've twisted our arm. Uberstein is purported to be one of the less annoying drinking options in Wrigleyville, and they have schnitzelwiches [Gastronomic Bypass]

• Two omnivores chime in about Veggie Bite, Wicker Park's vegan fast food dispensary, and are impressed by the crap you can make without animal products [Metblogs, Drive-Thru]

[Photo: CTA Starts Free Rides For Military, via Chicagoist (EHP)]

• If you've been meaning to try Sally Lunn bread (all but pound cake; and who hasn't), good news! The new Andersonville new-Southern restaurant Big Jones is making sandwiches and French toast out of it [The Stew]

• Hyde Park's branch of the Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop chain serves a credible catfish po'boy despite its hokey atmosphere [Chicagoist]

• Would you ever get so flustered by a 90 minute wait for Kuma's Corner to resort to Burger King? We're not even going to say anything. But apparently there's a rumor they're opening a store in Las Vegas?! [Drive-Thru]

• Solid, classic Italian at Lincoln Square's La Bocca della Verita'; the carbonara comes highly recommended [Chicagoist]

• What's better about Colombian bakery Mekato's — the pastries, the coffee or the prices? For us, it's the repeated use of "Columbian" instead of "Colombian" in the post, because we're horribly petty [Drive-Thru]

• Two nots about the South Side: Park 52 is not yet open for brunch to everyone's chagrin, and the service and food quality at Rosscoe's Chicago Home of Chicken and Waffles have not been helped by the name change [Chicagoist]

• The cookies are small and unassuming at Twisted Sister Bakery, but no less tasty for it [TOC]

[Photo: cemi-photographic 101/flickr]

Sometimes, we just don't understand. We got an impressionistic (at best) non-review for an Logan Square Chinese restaurant from a user named "Vegetarian" entitled "Missing Meows":

I live down the street and I am missing all three of my f*cking cats. If I find fur in anyones' garbage can I am going to be pissed. For Gods' sake work on the rats. Thats why I HAD the cats.

It's not necessarily fair to assume that this is a young, literate crazy cat lady, but too late now! We feel bad about her cats, though. To lose three at once does make one suspect foul play, although probably not on the part of the restaurant; the Chinese don't eat cats, and especially not outside of rural China. Seriously, it's extremely uncommon!

Anyway, do you think that Vegetarian is really going through her neighbors' trash looking for cat remains? One can only hope.

[Photo: "go ahead, try it" (Yaron/flickr)]

Chicago's intrepid food bloggers were all over the damn place last week, in alphabetical order by restaurant

• Bucktown gastropub Bluebird gets the smackdown for alternatively bland and overspiced dishes [Drive-Thru]

• First word on the Cincinnati-themed bar Cinner's Cincinnati-style chili - "good" [Hungry Mag]

• "The Mess" at Costello Sandwiches is salami, ham and capicola topped with cole slaw and fries, but the real story is the review itself, in poetic form! [Chicagoist]

• Classic Wrigleyville bakery Dinkel's still doing its thing — and doing it well — all these years on [Drive-Thru]

• Mike Nagrant lists a few of his favorite things, including the Philly cheesesteaks at Granddaddy's Subs on Taylor Street and the crispy tacos at Mexican Inn on the Southeast Side [Hungry Mag]

• If you don't order a cocktail at Room 21, they'll screw up your order on purpose! Or...maybe not, but also, the food reminded the reviewer of a "hotel buffet line" [Gastronomic Bypass]

• At Chicago's only Laotian restaurant, Sabai-Dee, skip the buffet and order off the menu. For example, the shredded chicken curry noodle soup [Chicago Foodies]

• The Lincoln Park Sushi X is less trendy than it's Ukie Village sister, and BYO for the moment [Gastronomic Bypass]

[Photo: Schlitz's reformulation marketing campaign, which highlights the use of the beer's 1960s recipe. The ad campaign intones, "Gusto is being correct rather than politically correct" and "Gusto is still having a phone that rings, not sings," and "Gusto is believing a firm handshake is the best form of contract," and "Gusto is not even knowing the meaning of the term ‘metrosexual.'" Ah, yes, nostalgia for the time when middle-aged white men ran the country, the corporations and the culture. Long sigh.]

• If you're willing to brave the lines at Bongo Room and not get a brunch item, their sandwiches are delicious [Chicagoist]

• Everyone likes soup when they're sick. If you're sick at work in the Loop, Ginza's udon will steam the virus right out of you. And it comes with green tea! [Chicago Foodies]

• Bridget & Tammy love the burgers and mac and cheese at Kuma's Corner, but are a bit irritated by the service. (16/20) [Chicago Bites]

• Brunch at wildly popular Milk & Honey Cafe possibly not worth the long and aimless wait [Drive-Thru]

• The cupcakes at Molly's Cupcakes may not be the best thing that ever happened, but they brew a decent hot chocolate! [Chicago Foodies]

• Betraying a wicked sense of humor, an order of the Eggs Benedicto XVI at Polo Cafe comes with a framed photo of the current Pope that watches you while you eat. Really? [Chicagoist]

• Randomly garnering two reviews last week, Ras Dashen is a solid Ethiopian option in Edgewater with unique daily specials [Drive-Thru, Chicago Foodies]

• If you score a reservation to newly-reopened Schwa, see if you can break out of your gorging reverie and ask Chef Michael Carson about your dishes, eh? [Food Chain]

• The vegan menu and calming atmosphere at Spa Cafe makes it a good Loop lunch spot for anxiety-prone non-carnivores, and maybe you too! [Drive-Thru]

• Newcomer Twisted Sister Bakery, anot