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July 01, 2009

What to Eat at Cibo Matto, Opening Next Tuesday

cibomatto.jpgThe Wit Hotel's third high-profile restaurant opening is scheduled for next Tuesday — chef Todd Stein's Cibo Matto will be on the hotel's second floor, in a sweeping space designed by the same team that did TRU. Along with the cheese- and salumi-focus that's got everyone all a-twitter, we got our hands on the opening menu. What should you be getting ready for? Crispy sweetbreads with artichoke fritto and lemon; roasted chicken livers with creamy polenta, pancetta, roasted mushrooms, and charred onions; the near-obligatory fried ricotta-stuffed zucchini blossoms; summer peaches with burrata and almond pesto; and seared trout with tuscan kale. We'll show off the rest of the menu next week.

June 29, 2009

Buffalo Wild Wings Coming to Evanston

Get excited, fans of fast-casual dining: National chain Buffalo Wild Wings has announced that they'll be opening their first whoops, eighth Chicago-area location, in Evanston's Church Street Plaza in the old Maple Gallery space. The location, at 1745 W. Maple Ave., already plays host to a Chili's — which we've always considered to be to burgers and tex-mex what Buffalo Wild Wings is to fried pieces of chicken — and an outpost of Italian chain Bravo Cucino, which we're assured is the Italian equivalent. The Buffalo Wild Wings is slated for a November open. [Chi Real Estate Daily]

June 26, 2009

What to Eat at Terrace at Trump

terraceattrump_cocktails.jpgAll the heat-seeking scenesters (in both the social and the temperature sense) will be flocking to the just-opened Terrace at Trump this weekend, sating their hunger for sixteenth-floor views and seventeen-dollar cocktails (despite its price tag, we're really feeling the Anchors Aweigh: Hendrick’s gin, fresh cucumber & watermelon juices, and some jaunty mint). At a media preview, Time Out Chicago described the feeling of standing on a walled ledge 200 feet in the air by noting that "you can almost reach out and touch Wrigley Tower’s clock; below that, the river peacefully unfolds into the lake." Just don't lean over too far, or you'll fall and then miss out on your duck leg with crispy spring roll and carrot coulis, your lamb loin sliders on brioche with red pepper ketchup, your cuban nachos with plantains, chorizo, and manchego, or your next fancy cocktail (for max irony, may we suggest the Man Overboard?). Check out the complete selection of food and drink post-jump.

Continue reading "What to Eat at Terrace at Trump" »

The Brilliant Blago Dog at Chicago's Dog House

blagohead.jpgThe comparisons are inevitable between the recently-opened Chicago's Dog House in Lincoln Park and Avondale's Hot Doug's — taking their cue from the king of encased meats, the boys behind the Dog House have turned to some nontraditional animals in putting together their menu. Adventurous eaters can order lamb, duck, or even smoked alligator sausages, as well as plenty of inspired riffs on the traditional Vienna Beef. But where the Dog House's brilliance really shines is in their aptly named Blago Dog: it's a classic Chicago dog with all the garden trimmings, but the whole thing has been sacrilegiously and embarrassingly doused in ketchup. If this is something you actually want (if, perhaps, it is something you find fucking golden?), the menu notes that the starting bid is $1000. You can also check out the Dog House's complete offerings after the jump.

Continue reading "The Brilliant Blago Dog at Chicago's Dog House" »

Now Open: Bucktown Soup Cafe

Heatwave, schmeatwave — in blatant violation of the culinary dictates of summer, Bucktown Soup Cafe finally opened its doors this week. The wide-ranging soup selection will be served on a rotating basis, with hearty fare like lobster bisque, chicken & dumpling, hot & sour, and fire-roasted tomato sharing the stage with more seasonally appropriate selections like gazpacho. Check out the complete selection post-jump.

Continue reading "Now Open: Bucktown Soup Cafe" »

June 24, 2009

Original Rainbow Cone Headed Downtown — Permanently

If the Taste of Chicago ignites a fire within you for Original Rainbow Cone, but not really enough of a fire to get you to trek down to Beverly, the owners have decided to expand their operation up to State Street: they'll be sharing a retail spot at 177 N. State St. that's also occupied by sandwich restaurant Halsted's Deli. [Chi Real Estate Daily]

Paul Kahan Planning to Serve Tacos, Beer in the old Pontiac Cafe Space

pontiaccafe_salimvirji.jpgPaul Kahan, Donnie Madia, and crew have finally revealed what they're planning to do with the old Pontiac Cafe space that they acquired last fall — though the reveal might have been accidental. Eavesdropping at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, Food & Wine's Kate Krader overhears Kahan saying to a companion “I'm gonna serve tacos and cheap American beer in an old gas station in Wicker Park.” The space is a stone's throw from Violet Hour, in which Kahan and Madia also have a stake. [Mouthing Off]

Previously:
Old Pontiac Cafe To Become Post-Publican Publican

[Photo: Salim Virji/Flickr]

June 23, 2009

The Grill: UFood Grill Drops the "UFood"

Looks like UFood Grill in the South Loop has changed its name to just The Grill, Sloopin reports: "We couldn't find much about the new name or concept, but it looks very similar inside. It also looks like it's the same owner, but we're not sure about that. The restaurant looks to have changed its mantra from 'healthy' food to simply traditional grill food (ie burgers, fries, etc)." [Sloopin]

June 22, 2009

Yes, Taxim Is Open For Lunch (and Breakfast) Today Wait, No It's Not

Update: Never mind! We just heard from the nice folks at Taxim, and they're thinking maybe tomorrow instead. We're thinking we will hold off reporting on this until we have DNA evidence of orchid root ice cream in a paying customer's tummy.

After taunting us for months with the promise of all-day mezethes, this morning at 7 a.m. Taxim opened its doors to anyone in search of a decent cup of strong coffee and some Mediterranean accompaniments (Greek ice cream for breakfast? Crazy flavors like orchid roots, crocus, and mango? Hells yes.) Look for daily chalkboard offerings, plus a fixed menu of small plates and pastries. Today's opening menu after the jump.

Continue reading "Yes, Taxim Is Open For Lunch (and Breakfast) Today Wait, No It's Not" »

June 18, 2009

Two New Five Guys Locations Coming to the North Side

fiveguys_mrmatt.jpg

Brace your arteries: Chicago is slated to get two more locations of Five Guys, the DC-export burger chain known as much for their fresh-cut (and addictive) french fries as they are for their hamburgers. The Stew notes that Lincoln Park gets a second location opening July 20 (2368 N. Clark, on the corner with Fullerton), and for those who can't wait for novelty, the Rogers Park Five Guys at 6474 N. Sheridan will open two weeks earlier on July 6. [The Stew]

June 16, 2009

The Dog Joint Taking Over Former Rockstar Dogs Location

Time to nail closed the coffin for Rockstar Dogs: the Lincoln Park location of the mini-chain, whose alive-or-not status was unclear this past March, is for sure shut for good. LTHer "Puppy" notes that there's a sign in the window saying the space will reopen as "The Dog Joint" in July. It's unclear whether that'll be under the same ownership; a call to the former Rockstar location gets an out of service message, which kills us, because we really need to know the fate of that stripper pole. [LTHForum]

Previously: Time Out Chicago is the Harbinger of Hot Dog Death

June 10, 2009

Eat Your Salad After Dessert at Browntrout

browntrout.jpg
After a quiet opening in North Center a few weeks ago, Browntrout is already getting buzz from the likes of Pollack at Chicago Mag for its green ethos and simple but charming food. What should you eat when you go there? The menu's divided idiosyncratically — there are "Smalls," "Bigs," and "Finals," which are more or less appetizer/entree/dessert analogs, but also a section called "Shared" (multi-person appetizers?) "Farmed... to Table" (we're thinking greenmarket fare sized for tasting) and a "Pasta of the Moment" that will change on the chef's whim. The menu includes a category called "After," with a single item: a plate of farmed greens in a sherry vinaigrette, described as "European and healthy." Salad after dessert? We're calling the trend right here, right now.

While the restaurant's namesake fish isn't on the menu, there are other trouts: a three-way tasting of fish preparations includes orange-cured Tasmanian aea trout and applewood-smoked rainbow trout. Plus there's the entree we're calling for Most Likely To Be Mentioned In Every Review is their pan-seared Idaho golden trout, prepared "New Zealand style" — i.e. the way chef Sean Sanders and his wife cooked it up while they were honeymooning in Kiwiland, with brown butter, confit shallots, peas, mint, and toasted walnuts. Finish it off with the intriguingly named "Grandma Burns Chocolate Chip Cookies" — it's not clear if this is a recipe from someone called Grandma Burns, or if the lady has a tendency to overcook them, but they're served up with a glass of organic milk. Can't go wrong with that.

Check out the complete menu after the jump.

Continue reading "Eat Your Salad After Dessert at Browntrout" »

June 08, 2009

Get Your Horseshoe On at Bucktown's 6 Degrees, Opening Tonight

Tonight at 5pm the doors of the former Chinaski's space will reopen, and 6 Degrees will be born. Think your standard Bucktown bar, but with the crazy meat-lover's hook of The Horseshoe — the unofficial official sandwich of Springfield, IL. What's in a horseshoe? UrbanDaddy breaks it down: "Texas toast piled with your favorite meats (hamburger, turkey, chicken, Italian beef), topped with crispy French fries and, finally, smothered in warm, thick cheese sauce." This is, in fact, why you're fat.

June 03, 2009

Say Hello to The Purple Pig: The Traveling Wilburys of Chicago Restaurants

purplepig.jpgJimmy Bannos (Heaven on Seven), Scott Harris (Mia Francesca), and at least one other big name in the Chicago restaurant world are joining forces, Voltron-style, to bring Chicago The Purple Pig, reports TOC's Heather Shouse, in what might be the biggest restaurant news to cross our desks in a long while. The restaurant is slated to open in mid-September at 500 N Michigan Ave. And they're playing to trend: pan-Mediterranean small plates all under ten bucks, a bar-centric atmosphere — and that name? "We like pork and we like wine,” head chef Jimmy Bannos (whose son Jimmy Jr., late of New York's Del Posto and Esca, will be running the kitchen) told Shouse. Turns out when a pig drinks wine, it turns purple. Apparently this is common knowledge? [TOC/Out & About]

June 01, 2009

Wolfy's Northbrook Opening June 4

wolfys_vienna.jpgRejoice in a delayed fashion, suburban hot dog lovers! Beloved weiner stand Wolfy's, a West Rogers Park staple since 1967, was scheduled to unveil its long-awaited Northbrook location today, but they've pushed the grand opening to this Thursday, June 4. The menu is pretty much identical: there's the famous dog, of course, as well as options like Polish sausage, grilled salami on French bread, house-made Italian beef, and their beloved brisket/chuck-blend cheeseburger burger, topped with Merkt's cheddar and grilled onion and served on a challah roll. [Dining Chicago]

May 28, 2009

Now Open: Nightwood, Lula Café's Pilsen sibling

There’s been a bit of mystique surrounding the opening of Nightwood; its location—an oasis in a somewhat underdeveloped Pilsen environs—and its namesake the Djuna Barnes novel, apparently an homage to owner Jason Hammel's literary past. Not left out of the anticipatory buzz has been eager speculation about Nightwood’s menu, especially among Lula devotees.

And now the big reveal: having just recently opened its doors, the buzz is that Nightwood’s dinner offerings, changing almost daily, should satisfy Chicago gourmands and hipsters alike. A sample menu, posted today on the TOC blog, includes deep fried Mississippi prawns, suckling pig and morel ravioli, and wood-grilled trout.

Art and Chelsea of The Pleasant House have already checked it out and proclaimed it a great addition to the neighborhood. Initial Yelp reviews, though still few at this point, have commented on Nightwood’s “delicious” food and the freshness of its ingredients, also citing the “really wonderful service” as “ridiculously attentive.”

Nightwood’s interior features an open kitchen lined with seating for those who wish to observe, and, true to its name, walnut woodwork throughout. There is also a covered patio for dining semi-al fresco.

-- Hanna Andrews

Coming Soon: Angin Mamiri

Anyone out there craving gado-gado? Chicagoans with a penchant for Indonesian cuisine are currently at a loss for restaurants. Starting in June, you can get your Halal on at Angin Mamiri, Muhammed Rukli’s soon-to-open eatery on West Touhy. Highlights will include traditional Indonesian chicken, beef and lamb dishes, soups and spring rolls, as well as regional selections from Rukli’s native South Sulawesi. [The Food Chain]

--Hanna Andrews

May 26, 2009

Continental Cafe Turning Into Little Bucharest Bistro

In 2004, Chicagoans in Roscoe Village saw the closure of Little Bucharest, one of owner Branko Podrumedic’s two establishments. The other, Continental Cafe, features live music and Romanian cuisine in Avondale. Now, in an interesting switch, Podrumedic will open Little Bucharest Bistro in the Continental Café space come June. But don’t expect to go back in time—the new Little Bucharest is a joint venture with chef André Christopher of The Grocery Bistro, a fact that will likely put a new twist on the current traditional Romanian menu. No word yet on whether meat-chewing vegetarian Christopher will be pairing tripe soup and Romanian sausages with market greens. [Dining Chicago]

-- Hanna Andrews

Now Open: Cafe at Wild Things at the Lincoln Park Zoo

lincoln park zoo - lion.jpg

Now that Memorial Day has come and gone, the doors have opened for the second season of the Lincoln Park Zoo's Cafe at Wild Things! Not only is the menu organic, seasonal, and local (as befits a restaurant sharing a park with the Green City Market), it's got quite possibly the best views in town: the tables overlook the lion and tiger habitats, adding that extra soupcon of carnivorousness to your lunch-eating experience. Menu items like the "Say Cheese Pressed Sandwich" (aged blue cheese, arugula, tomatoes and caramelized sweet onion) or the roasted cauliflower & chickpea salad (with garbanzo beans, golden brown cauliflower, sweet peppers, cucumber, red onions and basil, in a lime tomato dressing) are a step up from your average zoo fare; ingredients are sourced from places like Delong Farms, Bushman's in Wisconsin, and all the cookies and sweets are straight from Bleeding Heart Bakery.

[Photo via the Lincoln Park Zoo]

May 21, 2009

Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop Closing June 7

dixiekitchen_os.jpgSouthern-food staple Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop is shuttering June 7, part of the University of Chicago's large-scale closure of Harper Court, the pedestrian mall in which the restaurant is located, reports the Hyde Park Herald. The restaurant is at least as famous for playing host to state Sen. Barack Obama on an episode of Check, Please! as it is for its homey comfort food. Owner Carol Andresen will be putting some of Dixie Kitchen's most-beloved menu items, like jambalaya, catfish, and fried green tomatoes, onto the menu at her other Hyde Park restaurant, Calypso Cafe. [Hyde Park Herald]

[Photo courtesy Dixie Kitchen]

May 18, 2009

Tsunami Shuttering May 31

Upscale Gold Coast sushi joint Tsunami will be shutting its doors for good come May 31, 312 Dining Diva reports. Chalk up another one. [312DD]

May 14, 2009

On Deck: Protein Bar Opens May 18

Attention, Loop-based meatheads: former sports agent Matt Matros opens >Protein Bar on Monday at 235 S. Franklin St. Matros lost 60 pounds drinking protein shakes, and now brings the magic to the masses with his smoothie bar, where all the flavors on offer (piña colada, a Reese's Pieces-esque chocolate-peanut-butter) come with an extra wallop of protein. You can also make your own, starting from a base of soy, egg, or whey and adding fruit and flavor mix-ins. There are also "bowls" — spoon-eating dishes like a "pancake-in-a-bowl" (oatmeal mixed with vanilla protein and sugar-free maple syrup) and "crackberry" (acai berry blend topped with vanilla protein and fresh granola).

May 13, 2009

West Loop Cajun Restaurant Yats Has Closed

An MP reader tipped us off to the fact that over the weekend, the West Loop branch of Indiana-based Cajun/Creole joint Yats quietly shuttered. A call to the restaurant turns up nothing more than a mournful outgoing voicemail: "Thanks for calling Yats. Sadly after nine months we are closing our doors. Thanks for all of you who got to make it by. Have a great summer."

The "Yats all, folks" jokes will be refrained from at this time, out of respect for the departed.

Why Le Lan Closed: The Economy, Duh

Howard Davis, owner of the now-closed Le Lan has issued a statement about the restaurant's shuttering, and the simultaneous closure of Clarendon Hills' restaurant Soul: "We had to close due to a downturn in business that we attribute to the current economic situation. We appreciate all of the great effort our staff made over the years in creating very high quality restaurants and we are grateful to all of our customers who supported us over the years."

Cue the real estate vultures who will no doubt want to swoop in on the restaurant's prime location. Wasn't there someone looking for a good space?

May 12, 2009

Breaking: Le Lan is Closed

According to Steve Dolinsky'stwitter, Le Lan is closed, presumably the latest casualty of the restaurant-inhospitable economic climate.

Calls to the restaurant reach a voicemail recording that reminds us of the restaurant's closing for Easter — considering Le Lan's general on-top-of-it-ness about tiny details like the outgoing message, that's a pretty clear signal that something is amiss.

May 11, 2009

Get A Job at Terzo Piano

A scant six days out from its official opening date, and Terzo Piano is still looking to hire servers, bartenders, and prep cooks. We can't help but wonder what the tipping situation's going to be like, since the restaurant is only open for dinner once a week, and the era of the three-figure business lunch seems to be dead and gone. Still, pretty room to work in. [Craig]

Elate: Greening The Dining Room

The Hotel Felix, the future home of the restaurant Elate (opening, in theory, this summer), has just been awarded LEED Silver Status. When Elate opens, it'll join the illustrious ranks of other LEED-certified restaurants like Province and the McDonald's at 4158 S. Ashland. [HDM]

May 08, 2009

Harry Caray's Coming to Navy Pier this Summer

We're sure that every non-tourist resident of Chicago often feels the simultaneous urge to go to Navy Pier and have a burger at Harry Caray's, but can't choose between the two totally authentic Windy City entertainment/food options. So thank god the Harry Caray's team just announced that all systems are go for the restaurant chain's expansion to a new Navy Pier location, with decor and menu near-identical to the other locations. Look for doors to open in late summer.

Jerry Kleiner's New Old Town Venture

Jerry Kleiner (Opera, Carnivale, Via Ventuno) has got some sort of new project in the works, and all we know is that it's got an address (1419 North Wells) and that for the next 30 minutes they're on the tail end of a staffing casting call. No name, no phone number, (as yet) no gimmick. Who else can get us details? Is this the answer to today's most intriguing blind item?

May 07, 2009

You Can Make Reservations for Terzo Piano Starting This Monday

Title says it all, really. [Dirty DIsh]

May 04, 2009

Terzo Piano: Gasp-Inducing Beauty, OpenTable Reservations

terzopiano_artic3.jpgWith just twelve days until its grand, earth-shattering opening, we can't get enough of all things Terzo Piano.

Our favorite source for all things inside, Emilie of Dirty Dish, took a walkthrough of the space last week: "it was clear that Terzo has turned a major corner since my last visit just a week ago. Staff members were unloading and stacking dishes and cookware in the kitchen. Even better, as we emerged into the dining area, there was a collective gasp: the interior architecture is completely finished and it is *gorgeous*. Denison has done a phenomenal job with his usual minimalist restraint, although the pearl-toned mosaic on the bar is a surprising touch of understated glamour. The chairs and other furnishings were just beginning to make their way in, some of them supporting nervous-looking interviewees."

The lucky Emilie will be dining at one of the restaurant's dress-rehearsal lunches this week. If you want to land a lunch table yourself, you'll have to wait like the rest of us for a date on or after May 16th — but the task will be just a smidge easier, since Emilie also reveals that Terzo Piano has embraced the future and will be taking reservations via OpenTable. [The Dirty Dish]

[Photo via The Art Institute]

May 01, 2009

More Mole Madness!

If you can't make it to Pilsen's epic Mole de Mayo celebration this weekend, complete with a mole cook-off judged by the awesome Alpana Singh, fear not: mole maestro Geno Bahena's new mole-centric restaurant, aptly named Los Moles, is scheduled to open on Monday. [The Stew]

April 30, 2009

Terzo Piano: The Menu Has Landed

terzopianologo.pngLadies and Gs, may we present Terzo Piano? That's right — the most highly-anticipated restaurant of the first half of 2009, with all systems go for its May 16 opening, has finally gone all full-disclosure on us. Not only do they now have a website up for all the world to see, but they've also shared with MenuPages the entire menu, and it's a doozy. Keeping in mind that this is a lunch-focused restaurant (like the museum that houses it, Terzo Piano will only be open during dinner hours on Thursday nights), this sounds like it'll be the new spot for midday meals of both the power- and ladies-who- variety.

Some highlights: Focaccia stuffed with goat cheese, a chicken-and-egg salad whimsically titled "What Came First," several of chef Tony Mantuano's swoon-inducing pastas. And lest you doubted that this is the Age Of The Burger — no fewer than four bun-borne sandwich options: an Illinois Piemontese beef burger with Wisconsin Widmer, a Pinn Oak Farms lamb burger with Indiana goat cheese, a shrimp burger topped with dried tomatoes and arugula, and the sure-to-be-written-about "Uno, Due, Tre" slider platter, described adorably as "an assortment of naturally raised piccolo burgers."

Check out the entire menu after the jump!

Continue reading "Terzo Piano: The Menu Has Landed" »

April 28, 2009

Open Today: Rockit Wrigleyville

It's been on the horizon for a while now, and has had a slow-burn soft-open for the past few days, but now it's official: Rockit Bar & Grill's Wrigleyville outpost is officially open for business as of today. Word is the space, vibe, and menu are similar to the River North location — but the proximity to the Cubbies will lend the place a certain je ne sais quoi, we're sure. Next Cubs home game is this Thursday, and we're thinking it'll be a madhouse. [312DD]

April 24, 2009

Felony Franks: The Hot Dog Stand Staffed By Ex-Cons

felonyfranks_chijournal.jpgA new hot dog stand is scheduled to open soon on the Near West side: it's called Felony Franks and, as seems to be a requirement with hot dog stands these days, there's a gimmick. Hot Doug's is haute, Weiner's Circle is abusive, and Weiner & Still Champion will deep-fry anything. So what's Felony Franks up to? It'll be staffed by rehabilitated felons. Jim Andrews, the restaurant's owner, is hiring ex-offenders in large part out of sympathy for the fact that the requirement to disclose their criminal history makes it difficult for them to find jobs.

Not surprisingly, this isn't going over easily with all of the neighbors: Alderman Bob Fioretti says he "won't make it easy" for Felony Franks to open, and there are complaints from the neighbors that Felony Franks is on track to open too close to two area high schools.

There's also the worry that the name and logo (a hot dog behind bars) will glorify the criminal lifestyle: "Any business that wants to do business in the area should always think of having a positive impact," said area resident Monica Brown. Andrews points out that restaurants like Hooter's and Addiction aren't considered prohibitively offensive — and it's worth noting that those restaurants don't operate in service of individuals who need help getting their lives back together — the plan is for half of the Felony Franks' profits to be distributed among employees, and the other half to go to the non-profit Rescue Foundation, which Andrews founded to assist ex-offenders. Plus, Andrews has some killer ('scuse us) slogans worked up: "The Misdemeanor Weiner," for one. Or "Food So Good It's Criminal."

What's in a name? [Chicago Journal, via Gapers Block]
[Photo via The Chicago Journal]

Fond Farewells: Chundy's, Patty's Diner

• Logan Square's Chundy's has shut its doors for good. There's a handwritten sign on the door saying "That's all, folks." [LTHForum, via DT]

• Skokie's Patty's Diner will be closing in early May, thanks to an unworkable increase in rent. [LTHForum, via The Food Chain]

April 23, 2009

Say Hello to Nightwood

The restaurant that we've been referring to in conversation as "Pilsen Lula" finally has a real name: It'll be called Nightwood, after the eponymous Djuna Barnes novel. Aesthetically, the restaurant will be a melange of decorative eras, with the standard dining floor an open kitchen surrounded by a ten-seat dining bar. The restaurant will open in mid-May for dinner and a late-night menu, Tuesday through Saturday. [TOC Blog]

April 22, 2009

Looking Ahead: September Brings Sweetwater Tavern & Grille

The old Bennigan's space on Michigan and Lake is going to emerge from its cocoon in September as a beautiful butterfly called Sweetwater Tavern & Grille, brought to us by the team behind Bucktown's Boundary Tavern & Grille. Beer, flat-screen TVs, "contemporary American cuisine," the usual drill. [Crain's, via Our Town]

April 20, 2009

What's Up At Terzo Piano? The Dirty Dish Knows

artic_modern.jpg

This month's Chicago Mag has an in-depth look at the new Modern Wing at the Art Institute, and accompanying it is a sidebar by Penny Pollack on Terzo Piano, the Tony Mantuano-helmed restaurant opening along with it.

Sadly for all of us who live on the internet, ChiMag hasn't seen fit to put the story online. But the inimitable Emilie of Dirty Dish has put together some helpful bulleted facts for the obsessive among us — plus her clarifications of some of ChiMag's glosses. Like the assertion that the Dirk Denison-designed interior (he's the mastermind behind L2O's evocative space) has no walls, only windows. Actually no, Emilie points out, there are interior walls aplenty. As for the magazine's assertion that the glass covered patio is next to an art-filled terrace that overlooks the park? The patio is actually part of the terrace — which is even more awesome, because it means you can eat while sitting thisclose to actual honest-to-goodness art.

What the magazine does get right: The Nichols bridgeway will take pedestrians directly from the park to the restaurant level without having to walk through the pesky museum. The lunch menu has an "ode to the pea" salad. The dinner menu has house-made spaghetti (though ChiMag glosses over the fact that dinner is only served on Thursdays, when the museum is open late).

Both the Modern Wing and Terzo Piano open May 16th.
Terzo Piano Fact Check List [The Dirty Dish]

A Smashing Good Time: Smash Cake Comes to Lakeview

dreamsicle_bleedingheart.jpgThis past weekend, the space that was once Chaos Theory Cakes reopened as Smash Cake — same location, same owners, totally different theme. Gone are the classic French preparations that were the foundation of Chaos Theory, and instead say hello to "a party place for kids": almost all the furniture is kid-sized with just a few adult-sized tables and two couches.

We checked in with owner Michelle Garcia (who, with her husband Vinny, also runs Lakeview's wildly successful Bleeding Heart Bakery) about the shift from Chaos Theory to Smash Cake, and she told us that "the business plan is different, the space is set up different, the hours and the entire purpose is different. There is nothing similar between the two except that I owned both of them." Well that, and the mouthwatering baked goods.

So why call it Smash Cake? Michelle pointed out to us that a "smash cake" is the name given to a child's first birthday cake — a cake baked specifically in order to be gleefully destroyed. Gleeful destruction — we think we can get behind that.

Starting today, the space is open from 7am-7pm Monday through Friday, and is open on weekends only for private events. To schedule a birthday party or other delightful exercise for your young 'uns, call 773 281 2353.

[Photo: a dreamsicle cupcake from Bleeding Heart Bakery/Flickr]

April 17, 2009

Looking Ahead: Fatburger and a New Chickpea

• A new Fatburger from KW Foods LLC (is it Kanye? Is it not Kanye?) is opening at 2341 W. 95th Street. [PRWire]

• The team behind Chickpea have found a Ukranian Village location for their second restaurant — it'll be a breakfast/lunch place on Damen near Augusta. [Chicago Brunch Blog]

April 16, 2009

Boobs, Beers, and Brogues: The Tilted Kilt Opening Soon

tiltedkilt_sterlophotog.jpgHey, remember The Tilted Kilt? It's been more than six months since we heard anything about the planned Chicago outpost of the restaurant most succinctly describable as "Hooters, but with plaid," and we'd been inclined to chalk up the radio silence to an economy-driven quiet abandonment of the franchise.

Wrong! They're in line for a May 11th open, and next weekend (April 24-26), they'll be holding a casting call for Tilted Kilt Girls — "an elite group of women who wear a cute and sexy mini kilt costume while serving fun to our guests." Oh, and lest you think it's all about looks, what they're really looking for are "spectacular people with great personalities." Expect to see Chicago's breast and brightest lining up come next Friday.

New Sexy Sports Club Opening in the Loop [CL]
Previously: Kilts Up, Feminism Down
[There was a kid being hugged by the half-naked waitresses in this picture; we had an attack of ethics and cropped him out. Full photo via sterlo photography/Flickr]

April 14, 2009

Captain Morgan Cafe: A First Look

wrigley_piratealice.jpgFor those with a legitimate gastronomic interest in the new Captain Morgan Club at Wrigley (as opposed to what we presume will be the restaurant/bar's primary clientele: sardine-packed Cubs fans in search of the nearest alcohol source), the Trib's Mark Caro paid the joint a first-look-esque visit.

Ostensibly, the room has a capacity of 620 occupants — but when Caro visited, it was so jam-packed that it took a full quarter of an hour before he even realized there were tables: "Turns out, you simply can't see them when everyone is standing shoulder to shoulder, but the room boasts 14 metal-mesh tables that each could comfortably seat four." More prominently displayed are dozens of gigantor plasma-screen TVs, which on gamedays are tuned to the action happening just a scant few feet away, through the restaurant doors that lead directly into the park — while the restaurant is accessible to non-ticket-holders, the park (for obvious reasons) is not.

Foodwise, it's not exactly a destination spot, but then again is that really the point? Of the limited selection of sandwiches, nachos, hot dogs, and a few dieter-appeasing salads, Caro finds his choices not entirely disappointing — the Italian beef is "very gray though not untender," and his companion adorns his otherwise naked hot dog with ketchup without getting punched in the face. So, that's a victory.

Cubs fans check out Captain Morgan, the latest Wrigley hangout [Tribune]
[Photo: pirate alice/Flickr]

March 16, 2009

Naperville Pizza Fusion Opens Its Green Doors

pizzafusionhybrid.gifOriginally slated to open in late 2008, Naperville's Pizza Fusion has finally opened its doors in a soft open (the official launch is in early April).

According to JambleMag, this first Chicagoland outpost of the eco-friendly national chain is as green as you'd expect, with "bamboo flooring, insulation made from blue jeans, LED lighting, eco-friendly paints and Dyson airblade hand-dryers and solar tubes in the bathrooms." Plus, it's located in the same shopping center as the Naperville Whole Foods — the entire complex is vying for LEED-certification, and offers priority parking for hybrid cars.

We hear the pizza's good, but we imagine it pales in comparison to the delicious experience of wallowing in your own virtuousness.

Pizza Fusion open first Chicagoland restaurant [JambleMag]
Pizza Fusion [Official Site]
Previously: Coming Soon: Pizza Fusion Is Greener Than Thou

March 10, 2009

Time Out Chicago is the Harbinger of Hot Dog Death

hotdougs_biskuit.jpg

Hot on the heels of their report that Harry's Hot Dogs will be closing its doors for good come April, the good folks at TOC also noticed that the phone lines seemed to be amiss at Rockstar Dogs. Yep, they're already dark.

And that announcement came just minutes after the Time Out team revealed that Hot Doug's twitter is a fraud — albeit a benevolent one. Is no tubular meat sacred?

[Photo: biskuit/Flickr]

March 09, 2009

Mambo Grill Is Really Excited To Announce That It Will Temporarily Close,Temporarily Lay Off Employees

In an intriguing instance of Controlling The Spin, the folks behind Mambo Grill have sent out a press release letting everyone know that they're closing the restaurant (temporarily) on March 31st, and will be letting go (also temporarily) 75% of the restaurant's staff.

"This is not ideal," said Susan Frasca, president of Frasca Hospitality Group, owners of Mambo Grill. "I had hoped to extend my current lease for 90 days, but the building owner and landlord, Dr. Shahid Sarwar, would not give us a lease extension," said Frasca. "We have no other choice than to close our doors and temporarily layoff employees."

...She adds, "It makes me sick to my stomach to have to tell my employees in these economic times that they have to find work elsewhere during the transition."

Frasca also owns Kinzie Chophouse at 400 N. Wells Street just two doors south of the new Mambo Grill location. "I will take about 25% of the employees from Mambo with me over to Kinzie Chophouse but that is about all we can absorb." Says Frasca.

Points to Mambo for not closing permanently, considering that darn economy. And a gold star for preempting disgruntled employee fallout. But two raised eyebrows for the bright orange press release festooned with brightly colored images — shouldn't you be feeling somber and contrite since this is breaking your heart?

The restaurant will be reopening sometime this summer at its new, larger location at 410 N. Wells.

Mambo Grill [MenuPages]
Mambo Grill [Official Site]

March 04, 2009

iCream Officially Reopening March 7th

A (quite possibly shilly) comment left today on an earlier post clues us in to iCream's official reopen date::

iCream reopens March 7th 2009! I was in there last week for the friends and family event. ALL the kinks are worked out, and the product is AMAZING!! Check it out!!

Will do, no doubt.

February 23, 2009

Monday Menus: De.Li.Cious, Feast Gold Coast, and More!

deliciouscafe_flickr.jpg

Here at MenuPages Chicago, we add new restaurants to the site every day, whether they're just-opened or just-acquired-a-fax-machine. Here's a selection of what's new and notable this week.

Delicious Cafe (de.li.cious)
Feast Gold Coast
Pizzeria Brandi
Bon Bon Vietnamese Sandwiches
Chicago Curry House

Think we're missing a menu? Let us know.

[The interior of Delicious Cafe, via their Flickr]

Meet The New Kid: MarketHouse

honeycrisp.jpgThere's been a lot of ink spilled about the opening of MarketHouse, the space-bar-averse new restaurant in the Streeterville Doubletree — and with good reason. The restaurant has taken over the former space of 300 East, a nondescript coffeeshop of the Twilight Zone/Automat/Exit To Nowhere variety, and in this seemingly incongruous setting chef Scott Walton offers up a New American bill of fare that's heavy on comfort food and light on the froufrou. ranging from beet & apple salad with baby arugula and buttermilk blue cheese all the way down to Arctic Char with sweet potato chowder and blood oranges. (You can check out the restaurant's full menu here.)

At her First Look visit, the Trib's Monica Eng enjoyed nearly every dish she tried from the comfort food-heavy menu — meatloaf that "satisfied completely," perfect cheese grits, and "irresistable" butterscotch bread pudding — but was left with a serious state of sticker shock. The prices are high, especially (as we are contractually obligated to point out) in these trying economic times. But the place has only been open a week, and will presumably find a happy medium, moneywise.

As the name implies, MarketHouse is market-oriented, with Walton and his team going to pains to source what ingredients he can from local suppliers, and planning to change the menu along the way to reflect what fruits and vegetables are in season. Chef de cuisine Thomas Rice told us that they're going for "nice, fresh simple recognizable ingredients", rattling off a list of suppliers and local farms with bringing Miller Farms chicken in from Indiana, beef from Pennsylvania's Four Story Farms, and vegetables from recognizable names like Nichols Farms.

MarketHouse [MenuPages]

February 17, 2009

Hearty Boys Brunch: Once-A-Week with a Big Wallop

heartyboys_shortcake.jpgYour Sunday mornings just got a little bit easier: The Hearty Boys — a.k.a. Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh, the mediagenic wunderkinder who won The Next Food Network Star back in 2005 — have thrown their formerly catering-only hats back into the restaurant ring.

Hearty Boys, an ersatz restaurant located inside the Hearty Boys Catering Studio at 3819 N Broadway, is open just one day a week, and only for brunch. We talked to Dan, who mans the kitchen, who told us that the inspiration behind the limited service is that "I love brunch! Steve doesn't like breakfast, so I figured either I go out and eat brunch by myself, or I open a restaurant that serves it."

Hearty Boys Brunch is open every Sunday from 9am-2pm. They kicked off this past Sunday with a packed house — Dan tells us it was "standing room only" — and while their Handheld Cardamom Waffles aren't too difficult to consume on your feet, it's not optimal. Planning ahead highly recommended.

Full menu after the jump!

Hearty Boys [MenuPages]
Hearty Boys [Official Site]

Continue reading "Hearty Boys Brunch: Once-A-Week with a Big Wallop" »

February 13, 2009

Simon Says Simone's

simones_mwilliams.jpgToday marks the opening of new Pilsen bar Simone's (brought to you by the team behind Northside, Black Beetle, and other bar+burger locales), and everyone is going crazy.

Thrillist gave Simone's a fawning pre-open writeup, waxing excited about the bartop made from an old bowling lane and the simultaneous alcoholic presence of $2.50 PBR tallboys and a Pop-Rocks-encrusted Champagne cocktail. Tamarkin at TOC notes with delight the uber-eco interior, where 'most everything is made from found, recycled, or repurposed items. And Art & Chel over at Pleasant House get proustian with the salvage, recalling childhood trips to the salvage yard.

As for us — well, we're excited about the food. Black bean and banana empanadas? Avocado BLT? Reuben bratwurst? Hot wing chicken sandwich with celery relish? Oh god, yes.

Full menu, after the jump.

Simone's [MenuPages]
Simone's [Official Site]
[Photo: Martha Williams for TOC]

Continue reading "Simon Says Simone's" »

February 11, 2009

DeLaCosta Deal Bottoms Out; Restaurant Goes Dark

delcaostatableE_liz_noise.jpg

Back in September, our hopes flared up that beleaguered nuevo Latino restaurant DeLaCosta had found new ownership with a co-owner of Flatwater.

But today the Trib reports that a rumored dea (presumably the same one) has fallen through, and DeLaCosta is dark. Another shutter in these trying times isn't surprising, but there had been hope for this joint. Sadface.

TOC had predicted this shutter back in January — score one more for the psychic (or would that just be business-savvy) wondertwins on the Food & Drink desk.

DeLaCosta closes; might it reopen? [The Stew]
De La Costa Gets A New Owner [previously]
DeLaCosta [MenuPages]
DeLaCosta [Official Site]

[Photo: liz_noise/Flickr]

February 10, 2009

Owners of The Gage Opening Second Restaurant Next Door

Heartening news in our times of woe! Crain's reports that the owners of The Gage are planning to buy space in the building next door to their Michigan Ave. location, in order to open another restaurant.

As for what kind of food — all the report lets us in on is that "the new restaurant will be different and completely separate from the Gage, and that its much smaller size means there won’t be a big bar area" like the one The Gage is known for. They're planning for an open before the end of the year.

Update: an astute reader points out that Ruby and Pollack at the Mag had the scoop on this — hella back in the day.

The Gage [MenuPages]
The Gage [Official Site]

February 03, 2009

iCream Slated to Reopen in Mid-Februrary [iCream iNsanity]

Time portal to mid-August! Remember iCream, the pornographically-named high-concept DIY ice cream storefront in Wicker Park? It opened just long enough for us to get a firsthand repot on the ice cream techs who "pour your order into a SCIENCE BEAKER, which they then pour into a Kitchen Aid which churns the concotion as liquid nitrogen is poured in, immediately evaporating into smoke right in front of you whilst freezing the ice cream. This looks INCREDIBLY COOL."

And it was incredibly cool! Until the machinery sort of blew up and everyone was sad because the owners decided to close the doors for a while until they could get everything together. Which they have now, pretty much, done — iCream is slated for a mid-February reopen.

To whet your appetite for SCIENCE BEAKERS and INCREDIBLE COOLNESS, a revisit of the original iCream video, filmed (and featuring the girlish scream of) no less an illustrious figure than my brother:

previously
iCream, uCream
iCream iNsanity: Opening Day Report
iCream iNsanity: Now With Video!

Top Chef Runner-Up Dale Levitski Opening a Weekly Supper Club

In the run-up to his long-awaited restaurant opening, former Top Cheffer Dale Levitski is picking up what the zeitgeist is throwing down.

Hot on the heels of Top Chef top dog Tom Colicchio's weekly New York supper club, Levitski is starting his own: Dine with Dale, Thursday nights at Relax Lounge. Three solid courses, $25, hipper-than-thou cachet, and close proximity to reality TV celebrity? Mais oui.

The Appetizer [UrbanDaddy]
National: Colicchio Returns To His Roots [previously]

January 22, 2009

Dept of Puns: Hoosier Mama Opening a Pie Store on Pi Day

pipie.jpg

In this week's Dish, Pollack and Ruby have a Q&A with Paula Haney of Hoosier Mama Pie, who will be opening a retail outlet — Hoosier Mama Pie Company — on March 14.

They get some interesting info out of Haney. the space will be small, only three tables, with a hefty rotation of pie types and a cake of the day. She'll be candying her own pineapple for hummingbird cake. But one thing the Dishers didn't quite pick up on (or at least, didn't advertise) is the significance of Haney's opening date. March 14th? Why, that's 3/14. Which is ... ready for it, guys? Pi Day.

Not surprising, coming from a lady who named her company one of our all-time favorite puns. Go ahead. Say it out loud. We dare you not to totally love it.

Two if by Terra [Dish, about halfway down]
Hoosier Mama Pie Co [Official Site]

[Photo: Probably the best Pi Pie we've ever seen, via Foxtongue's Flickr]

January 21, 2009

Loop Lunchspot Freshii Set To Open 80 New Chicago Locations

freshii_rendering.jpgWhen we realized last September that Loop lunch staple Freshii was actually the first American outpost of a Canadian chain, we had no idea it would come to this: Chicago-based über-franchiser David Grossman has signed a deal to open 80 (that's right, eight-zero) Freshii locations throughout the city.

Grossman recently signed a lease for his first location in Chicago's Water Tower Place on N. Michigan Avenue to open in June 2009. Water Tower Place is Chicago's premier shopping destination with a stunning eight-level atrium featuring more than 100 stores, restaurants and boutiques.

Grossman has another lease signed for Block 37, a new development at 108 North State Street in the Loop community area of downtown Chicago that will offer an array restaurants and retail, and is scheduled to open in September 2009. He hopes to open four corporate stores in 2009 and five more in 2010. Grossman then plans to franchise locations to qualified individuals.

The wellness-oriented DIY restaurant divides its salad/wrap options into three categories by health — nutrient-rich choices like beets, portobello mushrooms, and grilled asparagus are categorized as "24/7," while on the other end of the spectrum things like smoked bacon or blue cheese are wrist-slapped as "splurges." A friend of MP who regularly eats lunch at Freshii has complained to me many times that, while the food is delish, she feels incredibly guilty every time she falls off the wagon into the "splurge" category — I can only imagine the result of nearly a hundred new guilt-inducing locations. It's staggering.

But seriously, folks. As long as Grossman keeps the quality up, this is infinitely preferable to a rabbitlike proliferation of nearly any other fast food option. And, poking around their site, I turned up this incredibly entertaining nutrition calculator, where you can build your salad or wrap of choice and watch the calorie count rise!

80 New Freshii Units Set for Chicago [QSR Magazine]
Freshii [MenuPages]
Freshii [Official Site]

January 15, 2009

Rick Bayless Delays Opening Of Churro Shop

Rick Bayless's planned churros-and-blood-sausage casual joint, originally slated to open this April, has been delayed until summer 2009. Dish has the scoop: it's apparently not because of the economy:

“We decided to buy ourselves some time, given the economy,” says Bayless. “We have our money lined up. Plans are all done. Let’s just see what happens.”

Gotta be honest here, that sounds a little flimsy. If the Bayless team has all their financials ready to go, we can't begin to understand why they'd hold off on a lower-priced, more-accessible brand extension of the increasingly famous Bayless name. An April open could plausibly garner national media attention thanks to the Obama connection — a vague "summer" plywood is hazier.

Bayless Blinks, Blue Water Sinks [Dish]

January 14, 2009

Recessional Closings: Blue Water Grill

Sad news, seafood fans. Restaurant-owning behemoth BR Guest has decided to close Blue Water Grill, the Chicago outpost of the company's hugely successful New York restaurant of the same name. BR Guest honcho Steve Hansen tells Eater that the closure is "the two-fold result of economic times and [the space's lease] ending this year. All closures are effective immediately. Staff at the restaurants will receive severance."

This is the first high-profile close we've seen. Hopefully not the first of many, but we're not holding our breath over here.

BLOCKBUSTER: Steve Hanson Closes Fiamma, Ruby Foo's Uptown, Blue Water Grill Chicago [Eater NY]
Blue Water Grill [MenuPages]
Blue Water Grill [Official Site]

December 18, 2008

Crocodile Chicago: Free Pizza Is Always Good

crocodilepizza.jpgIra over at Being Totally Sweet In Chicago (we're just gonna shorten that to BTSIC from now on, k?) wonders whether the brand-new Crocodile Lounge (1540 N Milwaukee Ave, 773 252 0880) is going to blow up Chicago the same way it blew up New York.

Here's the schtick: Order a beer, you get a pizza.

No, seriously, we didn't believe it was true either, until a few years ago we hit up the Brooklyn location (called the Alligator Lounge, but it's the same sitch), ordered a Blue Moon, and were handed a ticket for a free pizza. And then we walked to the back of the bar, where a bunch of dudes were cooking pizzas in a wood-burning oven, and we picked up our pizza. And then we ate it, and it was delicious, and we were happy.

While you can upgrade your pizza for extra cash (toppings run a few bucks, fancy pizzas and paninis are separate purchases unto themselves), the plain personal cheeser that comes with the beer has always been more than enough to keep us happy. We'd advise that you maximize your spending power and stick to the (cheesy, saucy, delicious) basics.

Crocodile's grand opening is tonight, so swing on by and see for yourself.

Will Crocodile be sweet? [BTSIC]

[Photo via Slice]

December 10, 2008

Trader Vic's F&F Tonight, Soft Open This Weekend, Official Open Tuesday

header_contact_04.jpg

The brand-spanking-reopened Chicago outpost of Trader Vic's is officially scheduled to open next Tuesday, and everyone's all a-twitter about it. (UrbanDaddy's so excited that they jumped the gun, saying the official open's on Sunday.)

Want to be one of the cool kids? We've got the scoop on the door policy: The fabled faux-Polynesian drinkery is actually opening its doors tonight for friends and family, and will be running a soft-open "service review" through the weekend.

We'll have a full menu for your reading pleasure shortly. Stay tuned...

Mantou Noodle Bar Closed, TOC Reviewers SOL

They're having a WTF moment over at the Time Out Chicago office:

After attempting to set up a photo shoot for a (now unnecessary) upcoming review, TOC was informed by Mantou Noodle Bar’s PR team that as of today the restaurant has closed. The restaurant had been open just over one month.

Whoops! Someone's going to have to dig into the backup pile! (May we suggest: A video of Tamarkin street-dancing.)

It's highly probable that Consumatron, who purchased some deeply underwhelming crispy beef with egg noodles from the restaurant on 12/6, was the last blogger to see Mantou alive.

Mantou Noodle already closed [TOC Blog]
Crispy Beef w/Egg Noodles from Mantou [Consumatron]

November 20, 2008

Stephanie Izard's Restaurant: The Drunken Goat

drinkinggoats.jpg

312DD broke it, and TOC confirms it: Last season's Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard's restaurant is in the "we're making formal announcements!" phase. Oh, and they have a name: The "Italian–influenced small plates" restaurant will go by the very memorable name of The Drunken Goat. (No relation, we assume, to LA's Three Drunken Goats)

TOC elaborates:

Izard came up with the name with the help of fellow Top Chef contestant and friend Antonia Lofaso. The goat is Izard’s Chinese zodiac animal, Izard’s last name is French for a type of Pyrenees mountain goat. The duo were brainstorming on an adjective to add to the name and drunken "just fit," according to Izard, who says she loves the cheese and, well, also likes to drink. Izard’s friend Quang Hong, the local artist responsible for Scylla’s cool sculpted metal awning, is behind the Drunken Goat logo and will add a few other signature touches here and there.

Izard and her accomplices (Kevin Boehm and Rob Katz, the brains and brawn behind Boka, Landmark, and the recently-opened Perennial) are thisclose to closing a lease on a Wicker Park storefront, and they're anticipating a summer 2009 opening "at best."

The perfect partners?! [312DD]
On the table exclusive: The Drunken Goat [TOC]

[Photo of goats drinking beer via kellygode's Flickr]

November 11, 2008

Five Guys! Five Guys!

FIVE GUYS OPENS TODAY and oh my god we know what we want for dinner.

previously
Five Guys Burgers Coming To Town

Artisanal Still Not Happening; It's Not Brennan's Fault

081111ninehundred.jpgWe noted yesterday that, per TOC, Terrance Brennan's project of bringing Chicago an outpost of his NYC fromagerie/bistro Artisanal is, for the time being, dead in the water. And today we received an email from Brennan's PR, informing us that we had our facts backward.

So Artisanal Chicago is opening after all? Nuh-uh. It's still most certainly on hold. But she wanted us to be very clear that it's not Brennan's decision to put this on hold, it's the developers'. That darn economy!

Terrance Brennan’s Artisanal Brasserie and Wine Bar will not open in the 900 North Michigan Building in Chicago as expected in April 2009. Because of uncertain economic conditions, the developers behind Chef Brennan’s Chicago restaurant have put the project on hold.

Chef Brennan continues to aggressively look for an alternative space in Chicago in which to open Artisanal Brasserie and Wine Bar and remains passionate about joining the dynamic dining scene in Chicago.

We appreciate the clarification. On an unrelated note, allow us to introduce the Rhetorical Device Of The Day: metonymy, the rhetorical figure of speech in which the name of one thing is substituted for that of another closely associated thing.

Not Happening: Brennan (And Artisanal) At 900 North
Artisanal [MenuPages]
Artisanal [Official Site]

[Photo of 900 North, where Artisanal Chicago won't be, via nicnac's Flickr]

November 10, 2008

Tony Mantuano For Art Institute's Modern Wing

mantuanoartic.jpgAs long as we're talking White House Chef, we can strike one name from the list of potential Obama chefs-in-chief. As TOC reported back in July, (and ArtNews reiterates today), Tony Mantuano, the mastermind behind Obama-favorite Spiaggia, will be the executive chef and managing partner at the as-yet-unnamed restaurant in the Art Institute's new Modern Wing.

Like Spiaggia and its offshoots, the AIC restaurant will focus on Mediterranean flavors (the press release says Mantuano is in the process of finding a "chef di cucina" — no Frenchy chef de cuisine here, grazie very much), and is "hand-selecting" the restaurant's staff. His wife, Cathy, will be in charge of the wine list.

In a nod to the prevailing culinary trends, Mantuano says "With this new restaurant at the Art Institute, I will continue to create my signature Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, but with a greater emphasis and focus on local, organic and sustainable foods."

Of particular note to us is the fact that this will be the first of the Art Institute's restaurants to be accessible independently of one of the museum entrances — the press release notes that "guests will have access to the restaurant through the Art Institute as well as via the Nichols Bridgeway--a pedestrian bridge connecting the third floor of the Modern Wing to the southwest corner of the Great Lawn in Millennium Park." When New York overhauled their Museum of Modern Art, restaurateur Danny Meyer pushed for his in-museum restaurant, The Modern, to have a street entrance separate from MoMA's own — a detail that attracted a dining crowd that might not otherwise have come,, allowed the restaurant to develop an identity independently of its host institution, and ultimately elevated The Modern exponentially above the usual old-ladies-and-overpriced-salads school of staid museum cuisine.*

Could it be that Mantuano's venture will follow in this lead? The restaurant is scheduled to open in May of 2009, with a primary focus on lunch service. But here's hoping they decide to take a cue from The Modern and go whole-hog — position this as a real dining contender, with full dinner service extending even beyond the museum's closing time.

Art Institute Taps Award-Winning Chef Tony Montano for Upcoming Restaurant at the Modern Wing [ArtDaily]
Spiaggia [MenuPages]
Spiaggia [Official Site]

[Astonishingly awesome photocollage by digital artist Marc Alan Fishman, coauthor of The March, and fastest draw in all of gChat]

*An exception is made for the stellar crappy-pad-thai (as distinct from good-pad-thai) at Sonny's, the cafe in the School at the Art Institute — if you haven't gone there, oh man. You must.

Not Happening: Brennan (And Artisanal) At 900 North

081110artisanal.jpgTOC's Heather Shouse reports that Terrance Brennan, proprietor of New York's Artisanal bistro/cheese temple/pungent-smelling room, is officially shelving his planned Chicago outpost.

This is disappointing on many levels. There's the "Argh, the freaking economy" level — Team Brennan's reluctance to invest in Chicago is yet another spotlight shining on the fact that the R-word is real and true.

There's the "Aw, we really liked Terrance" level — he's put real effort into trying to get Chicago to like him, putting in an appearance at Chicago Gourmet and generally being a press-friendly guy.

And finally, there is the "Crapola, people, New York's Artisanal has some extremely kickass steak-tips-and-cheese fondue, and insanely addictive gruyere gougères, and now it's not going to be here" level. Which is, of course, the most important one.

Of course, you can still get your fondue fix at Melting Pot or Geja's Cafe, and you can find the recipe for Brennan's gougères online (on our parent company's website, no less!). So maybe we can make do. For now.

Terrance Brennan kills his 900 N Michigan project [TOC Blog]
Cheese Gougères [NYMag]
Artisanal [MenuPages]
Artisanal [Official Site]
Geja's Cafe [MenuPages]
Geja's Cafe [Official Site]
Melting Pot [MenuPages]
Melting Pot [Official Site]

[Photo: Kielbasa for fondue at NYC's Artisanal, via wwny's Flickr]

October 16, 2008

Five Guys Burgers Coming To Town

081016fiveguys.jpg

Five Guys is coming! Five Guys is coming! Five Guys is coming!

Five Guys Burger & Fries is a DC-export, a fast-food-ish burger joint where the meat is fresh and fatty, the french fries are crisp and mindblowing, and there are bushel barrels of free peanuts to kill the wait between placing your order and being handed over your burger. It's bar-none the best non-California chain burger we've had, and if recent Five Guys openings in New York are to be believed, the lines will be out the door.

Locations are opening in Oak Park and Lincoln Park. In related news, we get happier about the burger situation here every freaking day.

Five Guys Burger and Fries headed for Chicago area [Tribune*]
Five Guys [MenuPages]
Five Guys [Official Site]

[Photo via Adam Kuban's Flickr]

*Kevin Pang is now being bylined as "Cheeseburger Bureau Chief." Kevin: Is this on your resume? If so, is it awesome? If not, for the love of god, why not?

October 15, 2008

Opening: Province

081015fluke.jpgWant to piss off Steve Dolinsky? Head to Province this evening — it's opening night at the new completely-green restaurant from Nacional 27 alum Randy Zwieben.

The menu looks tantalizing — and it's broken down into quirky-yet-comprehensible categories like "big" and "bigger" (no "biggest" yet, but we blame the economy). If we were ordering (and who's to say we're not?) we'd opt for fluke ceviche with red grapefruit, Gunthorp Farms rabbit confit with Marcona almond emulsion, and a kingly pile of Malpeque oysters (call it an even dozen?).

Province [MenuPages]
Province [Official Site]

[Photo: Laurie Profitt Photography]

Irony: Just As We Update Brasserie Ruhlmann Menu, They Close

We would go on and on about how we have a brand-new updated menu on the site for Brasserie Ruhlmann, but the darn place has closed. Spontaneously, surprisingly, and — the official word — temporarily.

Whether anyone is buying that the closure is temporary ... well, that's another matter.

Brasserie Ruhlmann eatery shuts down [Tribune]
Brasserie Ruhlmann [MenuPages]
Brasserie Ruhlmann [Official Site]

October 07, 2008

Old Pontiac Cafe To Become Post-Publican Publican

081007pontiac.jpg
Well now that The Publican's about to open, it is obvs so over.

In light of a confirmed opening date, on what will the restaurant/food/Chicago-focused blogosphere fixate next?

We predict that TOC's Heather Shouse has uncovered the next Publican: An as-yet unnamed, un-themed, un-detailed food and/or beverage joint located in the soon-to-be-former Pontiac Cafe. Which has been purchased by Donnie Madia and Terry Anderson. Who are, um, the very same team behind the Publican.

So the new Publican turns out to be... The New Publican!

The Publican crew takes over the Pontiac [TOC Blog]

[Photo: This space will soon serve lots of pig products and local produce. Via nofunk's Flickr]

When The Heck Is The Publican Opening?

UPDATE: Thursday. Trib confirms: Thursday, at 3:30pm, the doors open.

TOC says this Wednesday, but hedges it with "at the earliest."

312DD says this Thursday, but doesn't give a source.

What's a hungry Chicagoan to do? We advise: Just camp outside, iPhone style, until they open the doors.

The Publican: Once a tease, always a tease [TOC Blog]
Publican opens Thursday! [312DD]
The Publican [MenuPages]

October 03, 2008

Publican Opening Delayed AGAIN; We Blame Tamarkin

081003publican.jpgHey, remember yesterday when we pointed out that TOC's David Tamarkin was a... what's that word for someone who promises something and then snatches it away? A tease! A dirty lying street-dancing tease!

This was because he listed The Publican under "Just Opened," but then revealed that it's not anticipated to open until next Monday, the 6th.

Oh karma. He's now reporting that it's been pushed back again, to at least the 8th. Totally qualifying it to list as "Just Opened" in next week's issue of TOC. Gun-jumpers, learn your lesson here.

The Publican: Once a tease, always a tease [TOC Blog]
TOC, Digested [previously]
The Publican [MenuPages]

[Photo via]

September 15, 2008

The Headlines Write Themselves, Part 2

This just in: intermittently-beloved West Town Argentinian joint Buenos Aires Forever has closed.

File this one under What You Name Your Restaurant Will Lead To Its Ironic Comeuppance.

The Headlines Write Themselves [previously]
Buenos Aires Forever [MenuPages]
Buenos Aires Forever [Official Site]

Bristol Opening Delayed; Everyone Is Sad

While serious water damage has pushed the opening of The Bristol back from this Thursday to next Tuesday the 23rd, we can console ourselves (just a little) with some designporny details about the space.

Like, f'rexample, the custom handmade maple tables from Bellfina, including two 10-person "contemporary farm tables" for your communal drinking pleasure. Or the handmade leather menus and wine holders.

Sigh. Swoon. Stupid rain.

September 12, 2008

Please Sir, I Want Some More

080912morelogo.jpgThis past weekend we were sitting around with friends over a bottle or five of wine when the subject of cupcakes came up. "So over them," said the jaded one (who is not us). "They're so 2001. So Sex & The City. The New York Times agrees"

"Are you insane?" said the optimist. "Cupcakes are amazing. They are little single-serving batches of cake! With frosting on the top! They are not over!" And then the conversation devolved into whether one is a cupcake-biter or a cupcake-break-piece-off-er (we are the latter, and apparently in the minority).

Whether or not you are so over cupcakes, you must have your interest piqued at least a little bit by More (1 E Delaware Place, 312 951 0001), the uber-haute "cupcake boutique" that's opening today with some big names behind it: Todd Maturatai, formerly of Powerhouse, is in the kitchen, and Gale Gand (she who helped make Tru what it is) consults.

While the cupcake roster includes more than its fair share of sweetness (Red Velvet, Chocolate Chip, Crème Brulee, Salted Caramel, Chocolate Mint, Pink Grapefruit, Tahitian Vanilla, Mocha, Passion Fruit Poppy Seed, Lemon Meringue, Valrhona Chocolate Ganache, Cinnamon Swirl — had enough yet?), More is making news particularly beacuse of their savory cupcakes — especially the BLT, an inspired pairing of 2008's most omnipresent culinary trends.

We're as excited as the next trend-riding bacon freak to get our mouth around one of those, but Chicago Bites asks a good question: how far will the novelty carry them? Previews all have More pulling off flavorful+interesting with aplomb, so we've got a decent feeling for the store's longevity. Head over yourself and find out.

[Photo via More]

September 10, 2008

Kilts Up, Feminism Down

girl_logo_ellipse_06-08_180.pngAs if two Hooterses weren't enough, we can now welcome to Chicago yet another girls-in-skimpy-outfits-will-serve-you-beer-and-bar-food joint: The Tilted Kilt, "The Best Looking Sports Pub You've Ever Seen," is slated for a late November opening on the second story of 17 N. Wabash. The pitch:

a contemporary, Celtic theme sports pub staffed with beautiful servers. And guess what the uniforms would be... knee-high socks and short, sexy plaid kilts with matching plaid halter tops under white shirts tantalizingly tied to show off the midriff.
Oh hey, there's also food. It's a standard extended pub menu, with the occasional UK wink — Braveheart's Chopped Salad, Longshank's Sausage Sandwich, Kamana-Wana-Lei-U Pizza. Erm, actually, that last one's not Scottish. Or able to be ordered aloud in front of your mom.

There are also dirty limericks on the back of the (online) menu, which we are refraining from publishing because this is a family blog, goddamnit. But they involve elephant private parts and if we were not sort of personally incensed about this restaurant's very existence ("Sotos says he has no qualms about the overt use of sex appeal to lure customers" -S-T), we might actually find them quite hilarious.

Can't skirt issue: No skimping on skin at new pub [Sun-Times]
Tilted Kilt [Official Site]

September 04, 2008

New Opening Dates For The Bristol And The Publican

080904bristol.jpgMuch anticipated not-yet-openeds The Bristol and The Publican have new opening dates. Doors open for The Bristol on September 18, and The Publican — previously confident in its September 15 opening — has pushed the unlocking back to sometime in October.

If you would like to get even more excited about The Publican, we suggest checking out Mike Nagrant's mouthwatering sit-down with Brian Huston, who'll be the joint's chef.

Here we would normally make a joke involving The Bristol/Bristol Palin and a play on due dates and opening dates. But we're not doing that, because we are classy.

[via]
The Publican of The Publican [Hungry Mag]

[Photo: Bristol Palin, Levi Whatshisface, and John McCain]

August 20, 2008

SuperSonic!

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We've been remiss in our coverage of the newly-opening Sonic Drive-In, opening today in Aurora. This is in large part because we have been mad at the entire city of Aurora ever since we were 12 and went to see Wayne's World 2 in the theater (it's a long story), but it is in even larger part because (whispered confession, here) we have never been to Sonic.

We know, we know. We proclaim our love of Fatburger to the heavens and, given the opportunity, we would wax rhapsodic about Chik-fil-A (let it be known that if those crazy folks decide to open a branch in our town, this blog will go insane and will post nonstop about the event, and you will have to seek your Chicago restaurant information elsewhere). We can't think of a good reason for our avoidance of Sonic coverage short of some deep-seated Freudian aversion to the notion of ... drive-in service? Slushy crushed-ice drinks? Chili-cheese tater tots?

Anyway, we're seeking therapy. You, meanwhile, should go check the place out.

Chicago area's first Sonic Drive-In finally opens Tuesday [Tribune]

[Photo: Sonic's chili-cheese tots, via Fast Food Critic's Flickr]

August 18, 2008

iCream iNsanity: Opening Day Report

080818icreaminterior.jpgWhile we were sick this weekend, we sent special MenuPages correspondent Joe Rosner, a.k.a. Our Brother, to go check out the scene on opening day at iCream. He brought nine of his friends. No half measures here!

Quick recap: iCream's concept is DIY ice cream from the bottom up + liquid nitrogen. You order your base (ice cream, yogourt, sorbet), then two flavors, and finally, toppings, which cost a little extra. The cheery lab technicians (I cannot call them ice cream baristas, nor creamery custodians, since this is the future) pour your order into a SCIENCE BEAKER, which they then pour into a Kitchen Aid which churns the concotion as liquid nitrogen is poured in, immediately evaporating into smoke right in front of you whilst freezing the ice cream. This looks INCREDIBLY COOL.

When we entered iCream in Wicker Park on its opening day we realized we were inside an iPod (or at least Steve Jobs' treehouse). A white, curvy-square indoor storefront with futuristic words on the walls (the line is the iFactory, the countertops are the iLab), icy nitrogen tanks, and (of course) touch screens for placing your order. And although we didn't witness it, we were told that soon customers could plug their own iPods (the original Apple ones) into the wall and add songs to a store-wide playlist. All this combined with the cold nitrogen smoke made me feel like a kid in Willy Wonka's factory, except surrounded by taller workers.

Unfortunately, as cool (har har) as the liquid nitrogen and the whole concept were, we were sad the execution didn't pay off. One problem we encountered early in our ten-something ice creams ordering spree was sweetness - we were asked whether or not we wanted our ice cream sweetened at all, and then naturally or artificially. Some of us didn't catch this, got unsweeneted ice cream, and were quite let down (so we had to pump our own shots of corn syrup onto the ice cream at a counter, which really didn't make sense and didn't really help overall). (Also corn syrup is evil! — Ed.)

And then the texture of the ice cream was random - one tasted like gelato, another like hard ice cream, another like "refrozen melted ice cream," according to my friend Andrew. Combined with the overwhelming abundance of choices for your ice cream, the whole experience was very hit or miss - the simple rootbeer/vanilla ice cream (which happened to taste like gelato), and the strawberry/raspberry with extra raspberry topping, were crowned the favorites (we agreed the natural sweetness of the fruit really helped). But the failures haunted us, and we now know never to order coffee/banana ice cream with orange food-coloring ever again.

The prices were relatively inexpensive (no worse than Coldstone's; liquid nitrogen is pretty cheap), the other items like espresso-machine-steamed hot pudding intrigued us, and the store boasts it will stay open till four in the morning on Fridays and Saturdays. We're not sure how long those hours will last, but by the time iCream gets on its feet and maybe comes up with a more fixed, consistent menu, we wouldn't mind stopping by on a weekend to...chill. Har. Har.

— JOE ROSNER

080818icreambeaker.jpg080818icreammixer.jpg080818icreamtype2.jpg080818icreamtype1.jpg
top left: the SCIENCE BEAKER! top right: the mixer in action.
lower left: chocolate with gummy bears. lower right: root beer and vanilla

[All photos courtesy Joe Rosner]

DeathMatch: East Pilsen vs. Express Grill

080818polish.jpg
Bleargh, it's a Monday. Not only is it a Monday, but it's the first Monday we're back in the office after being decked by some sort of horrible food-borne illness for the better part of an unexpected three-day-weekend (holla, Friday sick day!), and we face our email inbox of 357 messages with no small amount of residual nausea.

But we soldier on! In fact, on Friday, at the apex of feeling horrible and wanting to die, we were sort of lying waxenly in bed, listening to NPR (we are, yes, that sort of sick person), and on came a story about the battle between the residents of artsy upcoming neighborhood East Pilsen and the owners of late-night hot dog/Polish stand Express Grill (1260 S Union Ave, 312 738 2112), who want to open a 24-hour franchise of their sausagery in the neighborhood:

Bakery owner Carlos Chavarria says it would bring traffic, loud customers and garbage.

CHAVARRIA: My son loves hot dogs. I love hot dogs. It's not the issue. It's not one business versus another. It's about a neighborhood concern about the potential chaos that would be brought forth with this kind of establishment coming in.

Chavarria is also quoted in the Sun-Times piece on the controversy (dude is media-famous!):
"This is a threat, not an opportunity for our neighborhood," says Carlos Chavarria, who owns Kristoffer's Cafe and Bakery on Halsted. ... Then there's the traffic jams and litter and overflowing Dumpsters, not to mention the rodents, graffiti, prostitution and double-parked cars, Chavarria says.
Well! We had not actually realized the direct corollary between late-night dogs and prostitution! But we are happy to be informed!

Chavarria's not the only person speaking out against Express Grill, but he's also up against stiff competition from residents who would welcome the injection of variety into East Pilsen's somewhat lackluster dining scene.

Now that we can stomach the thought of actually eating (but gently — only gently), we will admit that there is a fairly permanent place both in our life and in our heart for a late-night dog topped with fried onions. But we will also point out that we can smell the onions from Express (and its nearby rival, Jim's) when we are driving on the Dan Ryan. And we are not entirely sure we would welcome with open arms that smell into, say, our bedroom.

The debate rages on! And, um, will be resolved tonight. At a meeting which will pit neighborhood officials (including Alderman Danny Solis, major wheel in the Daley machine) against the Express Grill folks. Sun-Times is calling odds against. We'll keep you posted.

Hot Dog Controversy...in Chicago? [WBEZ]
Sausage showdown [Sun-Times]

[Photo: Polish, Chicago-style, via ejholmes's Flickr]

August 14, 2008

Atlanta Restaurant Group Comes To Chicago (In, Like, A Year)

This just in: State Street hotel-in-progress theWit (lack of space and internal capitalization [sic]) is contracting their dining to Concentrics Restaurants:

theWit's first floor will feature an Americana restaurant, serving the country's best traditional cuisine. A fine dining restaurant offering authentic Italian fare will helm the hotel's second floor, while a chic lounge and eatery will be situated on the 27th floor rooftop, offering hotel guests and Chicago locals a sharp rooftop lounge with unique indoor and outdoor seating boasting a strong beverage program and chef driven small plates.
Some cursory research reveals to be the Atlanta, GA equivalent of Lettuce Entertain You — a stable of glossy concept restaurants that tend to pull in really solid reviews, pay a lot of attention to atmosphere, and know how to appeal to their clientele.

Plus, CitySearch Atlanta voted TAP, their "upmarket and eclectic" gastropub, the eighth-best first date spot in the city. That's something!

Thus far they've only got spots open in Georgia and Florida, though, so it remains to be seen how well an expansion to Chicago goes over. theWit (the spacing and capitalization are killing us!) isn't scheduled to open until May 2009, so we've got some breath-holding time ahead of us.

The Restaurants at The Wit [Official Site]
Nationally Acclaimed Restaurant Group to Launch Concepts in Chicago's theWit Hotel [Yahoo/Press Release]

August 12, 2008

Fatburger Comes Within Reach Of Chicago (via Kanye!)

080812fatburger.jpgAll you Counter apologists and your heartfelt defenses and whatnot can go ... do something else. THIS IS WHAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT WHEN WE TALK ABOUT CALIFORNIA BURGERS. THIS RIGHT HERE.

Update: Also! It will be owned by Kanye West! WE ARE REALLY EXCITED ABOUT THIS.

Fatburger Ready to Conquer IL [Chicagoist]
Kanye’s co. opening Fatburger in Orland Park [Chicago Business News]

[Photo: fatburger, via disneymike's Flickr]

iCream, uCream

080812nitroice.jpg
As promised, we would like to use this space to discuss iCream, a "sci-fi ice cream parlor" that'll be opening sometime this week in Wicker Park.

Besides the extremely hilarious name (remember back in 2001 when putting i- or e- before anything made it super mega awesome cool, and 20 gigs of iPod cost $500?) (also did you catch how the name of the place sounds like an intimate or socially coarse statement?), what do we know?

We know this: The ice cream is made-to-order from the ground up. Going one step beyond places like ColdStone and Marble Slab, at iCream you pick your dairy (or non-dairy) base via computer touchscreen, and then start adding flavors and candy or fruit mix-ins. Then the whole thing gets plunked into a KitchenAid mixer with a hefty dose of liquid nitrogen, which freezes it up. Then you eat it.

We question this: Will it be any good? We're not quite as skeptical of iCream as we are of its hamburger equivalent, though this might be because we prefer a burger to a cone any day. But we're also a little nervous that freezing things with liquid nitrogen is not quite the same as freezing things in an ice cream machine — think about the textural difference between ice cream scooped out at a parlor, versus the brick of mint chip that's been sitting in the back of your freezer for a month.

Still, we recognize that this "will it be any good" question is kind of an irrelevant one. DIY joints tend to live or die based on the novelty of the experience as opposed to the deliciousness of the food, so while iCream prides themselves on their top-notch ingredients, people aren't going to be visiting for the hormone-free milk bases. They're going to be visiting so they can turn to their friend and say HOLY CRAP LIQUID NITROGEN!

In fact, it is entirely likely that we will be visiting in order to say HOLY CRAP LIQUID NITROGEN. And then we will make lots of puns on "iCream," and laugh like a thirteen-year-old boy, which we sometimes secretly believe we are.

Though given that we are a thirteen-year-old boy, we might actually attempt to make liquid nitrogen ice cream at home, instead. Which doesn't seem all that hard. And, um, kind of takes some of the awesome! factor away from iCream.

Well, there's always the puns.

iCream Cafe [Official Site]
Stone Cold Creamery [UrbanDaddy]
Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream [Cooking with Chemistry]

[Photo: liquid nitrogen ice cream, via jrhampton's Flickr]

August 11, 2008

This Ain't Eric Clapton

080811cream.jpg
We are basically out the door for the day (we are so hungry for dinner that we can barely contain ourself), but this just landed in our inbox and we are ... well let's just say this: when we were hired here one of the few rules we were told was "don't be too profane, don't be too sexual." And we were all "sure, yeah, we can do that!"

And then this place has to go and open on N. Milwaukee, and call themselves iCream.

So, come back tomorrow as we try really really hard to restrain ourselves! Fun for the whole family!

Stone Cold Creamery [UrbanDaddy]

[Photo: Quench, via dmmaus's Flickr]

August 07, 2008

Yats the Ticket

080807yats.jpg
Restaurants whose names are easily conducive to punning? Beloved universally by bloggers and restaurant reviewers everywhere. So we are psyched for headline-writing reasons alone about today's opening of the first Chicago location of Yats (955 W Randolph St, 312 829 7930). Thrillist has the dish:
The resto rotates eight to nine fresh-made daily entrees for an absurdly low $6.50 (add an extra buck for a split plate); because you're dangerously underweight, you'll also get a baguette hunk slathered in butter & jambalaya seasoning. Mainstays include thick gumbo (w/ crayfish, sausage, shrimp, & chicken), red beans and rice w/ andouille, and a spicy chili-cheese etouffée; nontraditionals include the sausage- and chicken-fueled Italiana in spicy tomato sauce, and the pulled pork/olives/capers/carrots Cuban-inspired dish "Ropa Vieja."
Per our listings, this is a much-needed injection of Cajun hot sauce into the West Loop. We await your reports. Yats the way the cookie crumbles. Yats amore. Yats the way (uh huh uh huh) I like it. Yats yat.

Yaks All, Folks [Thrillist]
Yats [Official Site]

[Photo, Yats's sign and plate, via casey_atchley's Flickr]

July 18, 2008

Publican Convention

080718achewood.jpgThat new beer-centric restaurant from Paul Kahan, wundercreator of Blackbird and Avec that we have been getting ourselves psyched about for, like, ever? Finally has a date and a name! Per The Stew, it'll open August 18, and it's called The Publican.

After some speculation about the various potential meanings of the name (renaissance slang for a pimp? Roman military tax collector? Re___? No, no, and no), Eng and Vettel learn that "the name comes from the Renaissance term for a tavernkeeper, which makes a lot of sense in a place with such a huge selection of ales, lagers, stouts and ciders."

So, yeah, tres sensical. Of course, to us, a publican will always be best embodied by Keith, the death-destined, Tesco-pizza-loving blowhard from Achewood. You see, he lives in the computer of a vaguely British, highly cosmopolitan teddy bear named Cornelius who is also alive, and in the computer also lives this finch named Mr. Teal, who hates Keith, and so Cornelius agrees to work with Keith to... you know what? Just start at the beginning and read every single strip. Your life will be the better for it.

Blackbird [MenuPages]
Blackbird [Official Site]
Avec [MenuPages]
Avec [Official Site]
Blackbird and Avec sibling finally has a name [The Stew]
Achewood [Official Site]

[Image via Achewood]

July 10, 2008

Baylessian Manifest Destiny

080710churros.jpg
We noted on Monday that The Stew scooped the expansion of the Bayless haute-Mexican empire into a fast-service, churros-and-tortas, casual-lunchy kind of place. Leave it to Dish to get to a phone and get the story straight from Rick himself:
It’s going to be a tortería with a wood-burning oven. We will be doing classic regional Mexican sandwiches, a la plancha. All artisanal products. All the preparations will be in the front window. We’re grinding our own chocolate from Mexican cacao beans right on the premises. Nobody is doing that.
Other tidbits: Churros from 7am-10am and then again from 7pm-10pm, "crazy flavors" of ice cream like corn and lime, and the as-yet-unnamed eatery is taking over the Champagne Furniture space on Clark and Illinois (wonder if they know their lease isn't going to be reupped, hm?)

Rick promises us a no-fail launch date in April 2009. If we call an arbitrary launch date of April 1, that's 264 days, 20 hours, 50 minutes, and 41 seconds from now, as of the very instant of us hitting "publish" on this post.

Doing the Bristol Romp [Dish]

[Photo: Churros, via maijau's Flickr]

May 22, 2008

Opening: Mexique Introduces France To Mexico

French-infused food is nothing new to Chicago. Takashi slips French into Japanese fare, Avec makes a (very) happy family of French, Mediterranean and Italian flavors and Le Passage fancies their bar food as French, but who’s doing French-Mexican? No one, until Mexique.

NY.jpgHusband and wife duo (it’s the chic way to open if you haven’t noticed) Carlos Gaytan and Iliamar Isaac chose Tuesday to open their doors on a stretch of Chicago Avenue known for its cowboy boots and taquerias. You can even buy live chickens at Hermitage, but probably not for long. The stroller-pushing hipsters and single-scouting diners that have settled into the hood need a place where they can be seen, preferably eating upscale food. A spot like Mexique feels appropriate.

If your first thought is burritos and French fries, you’re wrong. Chef Carolos Gaytan, whose resume includes seven plus years at the Union League Club, three years at Bistrot Margot and a short stint at Adobo Grill, combines his Mexican heritage with French training for a sophisticated result. Carlos tells us (talk to him when you go, his voice coos) he loves to cook and knows that to be a chef you must also be a "creator."

So what’s he creating? Pretty good stuff. On the appetizer list, a trio of sopes are filled with escargot and chimichurri butter, shrimp and avocado mousse, and plantains slathered with a spicy chocolate mole. Tuesday’s tuna ceviche (chef’s choice daily) was surrounded with tiny translucent gelatin cubes that tasted like a tortilla chip. The vetabel sounds just as peculiar as its spelled, but the combination of port wine poached beets with horseradish vinaigrette and a fried goat cheese cake promises an entourage of flavor.

On the main menu, Gaytan purees Malanga root from the Yucatan with white truffles as a topper for the NY steak. Dorado (Spanish for mahi mahi) is served with green beans, tiger shrimp, muscles and clams in a morita-saffron bouillon. A duck breast sports a chipotle-temple tamarind glaze and comes with a cranberry tamal.

After-dinner drinks are not on the menu, which is limited to a well-priced selection of wine. Iliamar (who is behind the design of the space and now has her career as an architect on hold to run the restaurant) tells us the list is only preliminary and will include beer in the future, but that cocktails have intentionally been left off. For fear a patron might order a midori-infused margarita to drink alongside their poblano pork tenderloin, maybe? We’re not sure, but if it’s tequila and citrus you want, you can find some resemblance of it on the dessert menu: the "Margarita" is a tequila pomegranate gelee with pink grapefruit sorbet and sea salt, for example. France and Mexico take turns down the list with classic options like crème brulee and apple tart or chocolate ganache and ancho chile enchiladas.

Call now for a table. It’s our guess once word gets out they’ll be hard to come by. Lunch starts in two weeks and weekend brunch is in the works.

Mexique [MenuPages]
Mexique [Official Site]

[Photo: Carne at Mexique]

May 15, 2008

L.2O: Is This "Chicago’s Best New Restaurant Since The Opening Of Alinea"?

L2o ossetra caviar on fluke.jpg

What could be more auspicious than opening a fabulous new restaurant on the day that the foie gras ban got repealed? This is how L.2O was welcomed into the world, and based on the reactions of Mike Nagrant at Hungry (who supplied that quote and also, magnanimously, the menu) and Judy Hevrdejs at the Tribune, L2O is already in the pantheon of Chicago's top restaurants. And with dishes that have descriptions like "lamb tartar, ebi shrimp, pickled peach, tarragon" and "gold egg yolk, kampachi, Kurobuta pork, sake" and "shabu-shabu medai, kombu bouillon, citrus, King Trumpet," this is not hard to believe.

The ball of Ossetra caviar you can't help but stare at is sitting on a bed of fluke; while this exact preparation is not on tonight's menu, you can get something similar in the $110-$140 range. A twelve course tasting menu is $165, and a four course prix-fixe is $110. Eh, we've seen worse. The photo is from the restaurant's official flickr pool, which is hot. When LEYE wants to do something, they really do it.

Anyway, we're excited.

First Sip: L2O [Hungry]
First Bite: L2O [Tribune]

L.2O [MenuPages]
L.2O [Official Site]

[Photo: Ossetra caviar on fluke at L.2O, LGras/flickr]

May 12, 2008

Opening: C-House

gravlax.jpg

Much like Sixteen at the Trump Hotel before it, C-House — famed Ethiopian-Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson's venture at the Affinia Chicago — has opened its door for breakfast only at first. This is a perfectly reasonable way to test the space and prep the staff, but the morning menu does not reveal too much of what's to come. Except that, much like Sixteen, it is very expensive.

No less of a personage than Phil Vettel checked out C-House over the weekend, reporting that "there are three versions of eggs Benedict, including one that includes generous slices of pastrami-style smoked salmon; that’s what I ate, and it was terrific."

One would hope so! It's $17. The smart money may be on the $22 lobster version, but there's always the $14 Canadian bacon for penny pinchers.

You know what else is $14 at C-House's breakfast? An omelet with tomato, mushroom, herbs or cheddar cheese. Pancakes with blueberry compote. Almond French Toast with vanilla maple syrup. Waffles with chestnut honey. Clearly, this is the "sweet" spot. Hahaha!

We referenced the pastrami smoked salmon eggs Benedict earlier; it is also possible to get pastrami smoked salmon as a side for $7. Why so much pastrami smoked salmon? And why aren't they calling it gravlax?

To answer the second question first, it's because gravlax isn't smoked, it's cured. If you want legit gravlax, you'll have to go to Magnolia Cafe, where gravlax eggs Benedict are served with wilted arugula, tomato and pesto hollandaise and house potatoes for $13. But we digress.

What's strange is, Mr. Samuelsson certainly serves gravlax at his flagship restaurant Aquavit in New York. Aquavit offers a $48 all-you-can-eat brunch smorgasbord that includes gravlax as well as any number of smoked salmons and herrings, Swedish meatballs and Danish Marys. Hello, why isn't that available at C-House?

Oh well. Lunch and dinner menus will be posted as they materialize.

C-House [MenuPages]
C-House [Official Site]

[Photo: gravlax, which is clearly not smoked, via Ben Harris-Roxas/flickr]

April 23, 2008

New On MenuPages: Stages, Shochu, Skewerz, Villains

Bunch of one-namers, these are. Okay, sort of a lie; Stages is actually Stages Family Restaurant. Chuck Sudo attested to the charm of the Bridgeport diner's open face hot turkey sandwich, which we can confidently report to cost $6.75 and include mashed potatoes and a bowl of soup.

shochu lamb chop.jpgShochu is a somewhat bigger story, as the New American/Asian small plate lounge in Lakeview opens TO-NITE. It's run by the Deleece people and is the first Chicago establishment to get on the shochu bandwagon. Shochu is a recently popularized 50-proof Japanese alcoholic beverage that's "cool" right now in America. Small plate lounges are also a recently popularized 50-proof Japanese alcoholic beverage that's "cool" right now in America. Um, anyway, here you'll find a handful of Thai curries, some upscale izakaya-style tapas, raw fish in various preparations, and skewers of meat (yakitori) served with any number of fusion-y sauces (blueberry teriyaki! Miso lychee aoili! White soy Dijon vinaigrette! And so forth)

Speaking of skewers, Skewerz! The name doesn't indicate this, but it's a Hawaiian fast food restaurant, opening "hopefully next week" in Wicker Park. Proteins available on a stick include: chilied chicken (with a red & black pepper marinade; four for $7), lemongrass tuna (with a lemongrass emulsion, three for $9), and flank steak (grilled with five spices; four for $8). Each of the aformentioned come with a rice (e.g. jasmine or brown) and a condiment (red curry peanut sauce sounds exciting). They'll be open until 3am on weekend nights, which sounds like the right time for this kind of food.

Finally, everyone else in the world may have known that the Butcher's Dog on Clark and Harrison closed a year ago, but we only found out yesterday that it's been replaced by Villains Bar & Grill. The menu offers nothing you haven't seen before (buffalo calamari for $9, mushroom swiss portobello burger for $10), but vodka drinks are only $3 on Terrible Tuesdays, an appellation we wholeheartedly agree with.

[Photo: grilled lamb chop with mandarin mint salad and white soy dijon vinaigrette at Shochu]

April 14, 2008

Opening: Starfruit

The latest yogurt craze-inspired entrant to the Chicago restaurant scene is Starfruit, opening tomorrow in Ukrainian Village. Unlike competitors Berry Chill and Wow Bao (you knew they were serving Asian-style frozen yogurt, right?), Starfruit makes its parfaits, smoothies and frozen concoctions from kefir, a variant of yogurt with a high concentration of bacteria. But good bacteria! Starfruit uses "probiotic" a lot on its trippy, hypnotic website (the best Flash-driven restaurant website we've ever seen, by the way, even though we normally don't like Flash), a totally hot trend in 2008. The yogurt...it will cure all your medical problems! It will do your taxes!

On that topic, as a special promotion for their opening day tomorrow, Starfruit is offering, for free, small parfaits, smoothies and frozens (let's just call them that) plus one topping. All of this would normally be $5, so it's not a bad deal. Flavors include flavors-of-the-week like Pomegranate and Acai, plus all the standard berries, a handful of fruits, and vanilla and capppuccino. Some of the flavors are available in organic, an extra 50 cents. The toppings are more fun, ranging from fresh fruit to milk and honey granola, yogurt chips (in case you can never get enough) and most exotically, mochi balls (a buck for the first topping, and then 50 cents per).

We say, the more, the merrier on yogurt. But the best part is, the menu they sent us came in three versions with three different fonts. They've since determined one for the website, but the tri-font menu gave us the unique opportunity to share with you the design decision as it came together. Here are the three options:

1)

font 1.jpg

2)

font 2.jpg

3)

font 3.jpg

The first one has a Harry Potter-type thing going on, the second one is like playful late 1950s, and the third one is a bit American Girl Place, yeah?

So which one makes us think the most about groovy yogurt? Also, why not just use the same sans serif font that the Starfruit logo is in? Because sans serif is modern and forward thinking, but Starfruit's hippy-wellness-holistic angle requires a few serifs to put us in a time and place, and the curlycues in the first font are as close as you're gonna get. And so, that's the font they ultimately chose for the website. Branding, we think, is like one of those good bacteria! Best eaten fresh and cold.

Starfruit [MenuPages]
Starfruit [Official Site]

April 07, 2008

Coming Soon: ZED451

zed451 lamb chops.jpg

ZED451 is an AYCE (all you can eat) New American steakhouse, opening in River North in two weeks. The restaurant is similar in concept to the various churrascarias around town like Brazzaz and Fogo de Chao, but with a New American rather than Brazilian orientation toward the meat and accompaniments. For a $50 prix-fixe ($25 for the kiddies), you get your pick of proteins like bacon-wrapped filet mignon, Parmesan crusted pork medallions, buttermilk marinated bottom sirloin, spicy fruit-glazed lamb chops, and so forth. And in lieu of a traditional salad bar, ZED451 employs a "Harvest Table" with sides like Maui pineapple salad, roasted asparagus with herbed aioli, and a "Hot Station" with options like sherry braised mushroom soup.

One mildly interested twist is that the restaurant employs thirty front-end chefs, who do everything from carving your meat to delivering it to your table. Furthermore, they get to show off their skills by making amuse bouches for the audience...er, dining guests. This is sort of like an audition so maybe you can hire them to be your corporate chef or something! We wonder if they wear name tags...

If ZED451 sounds familiar (the restaurant's name refers to the last letter of the alphabet and the temperature at which paper spontaneously combusts. All this makes us nervous that it's a doomsday cult), that's because there are already two in the area: Downers Grove and Schaumburg each have a location. It definitely feels like sloppy seconds to get a restaurant concept that got its start in the suburbs; we've learned by now to not assume that food served in the suburbs will be less sophisticated than its city counterpart, but...we cannot shake the associations of the soulless marketing immanent to restaurant groups in general, and these suburbs in particular.

The next best thing to judging a dish by eating it is to judge by looking at it (this is the premise behind Top Chef, by the way). Above are some encrusted lamb chops (apparently not the spicy fruit-glazed variety they have on the menu). They look...fine. More than adequate. There are chives in the foreground, cilantro in the background. Definitely a stab at upmarket. We look at these lamb chops and know instantly that the food will be good enough for the people who decide to go to this restaurant. It will be tourists and conventioneers and families and all sorts of people who appreciate high quality AYCE in a large (15,000 sq ft!), safe space. It at least has the virtue of being slightly different from other plausible alternatives in Chicago. Given the spiraling costs of meat, $50 for all the filet mignon you can eat is not a terrible deal.

ZED451 [MenuPages]
ZED451 [Official Site]

[Photo: ZED451's media center]

April 01, 2008

Opening: Nine New Restaurants, Mostly North Side

When it rains, it pours. Most of these are just opening or about to open. Some are from a few months ago, and one has eluded us since 2006! But all are worthy of note, not least for the reasons given:

Big Jones — offers New Southern (i.e. fancified New Orleans and Charleston) cuisine starting April 9th. Sipping the Zeitgeist, they have a tea menu!

Cinners — is Chicago's only Cincinnati-themed restaurant? They serve the city's famed chili over spaghetti, starting April 4th.

Edgewater Lounge — has a MySpace, which is not so unusual. Music tastes include: Hank III, Drive by Truckers, The Verve, David Bowie, The Stone Roses, Mastadon, Van Halen, OutLaw Family Band
miss asia five spices pork leg.jpg

Habibi — this Edgewater Lebanese restaurant, which drew the ire of the Dish last week, makes a point of saying they're open 365 days a year, including New Year's, Christmas and Thanksgiving. It's right on the menu!

Harry Caray's Tavern — a spawn of the River North original hard by Wrigley Field, indulges in the irritating habit of placing a little ® next to "Holy Cow!" all over their menu, refering to their burgers. COME ON.

Miss Asia — has every major South-East Asian cuisine except for Burmese. But that's the one we really wanted!

Nellie's — purportedly has Chicago's only Puerto Rican breakfast buffet! It's $11.95 for adults and includes coconut oatmeal...

Risqué Cafe — is Betty-themed. What a powerful cultural meme! Makes their barbecue sound plausible, ain't it; the chain of association being Betty-Route 66-BBQ. Correct us if we're wrong.

Spicy Pickle — a national sandwich chain planning 9 more locations in Chicagoland!


[Photo: five spices pork leg, $14.95 at Miss Asia]

March 28, 2008

Openings: Kam Fung, Snow Spice Thai, Tacos Erindira

Three little ethnic restaurants opened recently, and we got their menus!

1) Kam Fung, in Chinatown. Exciting menu item: Chinese-style fried chicken, $15 for the whole bird

2) Snow Spice Thai, in Ravenswood. Exciting menu item: avocado fish salad, $7. And they deliver!

3) Tacos Erendira in Bridgeport. Exciting menu item: chiles rellenos burrito, $4.50. Exciting menu quirk: menudo is $5.50, but menudo to go is $6.50. Those plastic containers don't come cheap, we suppose.

Okay, have a good weekend. Try someplace new!

March 18, 2008

Best Of MenuPages Reviews: Hot New Tapas Restaurants

bacon-wrapped dates.jpg
Chicago is having something of a tapas renaissance, if you're willing to consider two (Cafe Marbella, Mercat a la Planxa) a trend. For the sake of this post, we certainly are!

Cafe Marbella is a smallish, BYO classic tapas house in Albany Park, while Mercat a la Planxa is a flashy, Catalan tapas extravaganza south of the Loop. They both recently opened, and they've both been garnering the praise of Chicago's foodie Brahmins. How have they fared among hoi polloi?

Very well, so far. We've gotten two reviews for each in the past week, and we'll start with Cafe Marbella:

March 13th, entitled "Great local tapas":


Had a great meal here recently. The look of the restaurant is uninspiring (inside and out), but the tapas ranged from good to excellent. Most tapas are under $10, and it is BYOB, making it very affordable. (We had 5 tapas, one dessert, brought our own win, and bill was still less than $50.) Skip the sausage/jamon platter, it was the most expensive item we ordered, tasted fine but rather boring. Potatos with chorizo were perfectly cooked, though I would have liked a more flavorful, spicy chorizo. Rest of the dishes were really great and well-prepared, obviously made with lots of care. Server was very warm and attentive, really some of the best service we've had in a while! I would say that most of the dishes were on par with what you get at other higher-profile tapas places but without the high-profile prices. We will most definitely go back.

March 15th, entitled "Great neighborhood place":

Nice new addition to the neighborhood. The food was very good.The mussels in cream sauce was addictive and the figs wrapped in bacon were very rich and unusual. The BYOB made it even more attractive. The service was very good and very helpfull. We had seven tapas and the bill was under $50.00. We wish this new place a long and successful life. Try it you'll like it if you like to try new things.

Yes, it's possible these are both shills. Here's why we think this is not the case:

1) Both reviews talk about bills under $50. It would be really weird to do that on purpose!
2) The first review creditably criticized the food
3) The second review evinces a substantial drop in literacy from the first
4) Bacon-wrapped figs are not unusual, but they are delicious. Note that you can also bacon-wrap dates!

Okay, the fourth reason was not on point, but nevertheless, these reviews are plausibly legit.

On to Mercat a la Planxa, with its exotic 'x' standing in for 'ch' so the Catalans can pretend they're not Spanish like it matters. On the other hand, Catalans are known for their delicious cuisine (cf. El Bulli). Mercat opened for all three meals a week ago Saturday, where Chicago native chef Jose Garces dishes out all manner of Barcelonian specialties with broad-based Spanish cooking skills honed at the Andalusian tapas bar and Basque wine bar he ran in Philly. Expectations certainly run high with an opening of this size, and our users seem to think they were justified:

March 16th, entitled "OMG ITS SO SO GOOD!":


The food is totally insane with goodness! and lots of variety to choose from. The Wine list just goes on and on. the wait was about 20 minutes but it was worth it!!! as a neighbor to the restaurant i know that i will keep going for more and more.. there is also a nice bar in the lower level that looks really cute. the restaurant is located in the upper level and it so big, and it looks over grand park, but once the food starts your all your senses go to your mouth! ummm so good.

March 17th, entitled "Delicious":

Everything I tried was fabulous, especially the bacon wrapped dates (drizzled with cheese sauce tableside), the cadi urgelia cheese with truffled lavender and apple jam, and the pork belly that melted under the fork. I can't wait to go back and try it for lunch.

See what we were saying about bacon-wrapped fruits? Everywhere.

Maybe these are shills, but we'd bet that the Mercat people would go for more sophisticated prose to match their ambitions. Besides, both of these restaurants have gotten great write-ups in the mainstream press, so none of the reviews come off as outlandish. Seems like these are 2008 winners, but of course, the jury is still out.

Cafe Marbella [MenuPages]
Mercat a la Planxa [MenuPages]
Mercat a la Planxa [Official Site]

[Photo: bacon-wrapped dates by stu_spivack/flickr]

March 17, 2008

Opening: Chicago's Rosscoe's Chicken and Waffles

Roscoe's chicken & waffles, Los Angeles.jpg
We just phoned up Chicago's Rosscoe's Chicken and Waffles, the new, um, chicken and waffles spot in Bronzeville that pays rough homage to the original, but unaffiliated, Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles in Los Angeles. We spoke to the owner about faxing us a menu, telling her we'd been reading all sorts of press about the place (by which we meant The Stew, Hungry Magazine and LTHForum). Suddenly she got nervous, and launched into a narrative about how the restaurant only seats 80, and sometimes there are hundreds of people on the line, and she wants everyone to have a pleasant dining experience without being rushed, and the queuers have shared some nasty comments with her on the subject. She wanted to assure me that they were doing the best they could, but was wondering - with some dread in her voice - what the Internet has been saying about Rosscoe's.

Well, we told her that everyone seemed to be really excited about the concept. This was partially because we didn't want to say anything negative this early in the morning, and partially because we'd only skimmed the data and didn't have much substantive to report. Now that we've woken up, the thrust of the commentary thus far as been:

1) The line is so long
2) Much of the early business is being driven by the false impression that Rosscoe's is related to Roscoe's, which comes off as...unsavory
3) The chicken and waffles are alright, although they may suffer long waits on the way from the kitchen to the table

Some of this can be chalked up to opening drama and growing pains, but trying to ride the coattails of the established LA institution doesn't sit all that well with us. We realize the owners are just trying to maximize their business, but given the dearth of decent dining options in the area, simply providing good food and decent service would have taken care of that. Using the name Rosscoe's (misspelled as it might be) just opens you up for increased scrutiny and ire.

We'll have more to report when we receive the menu.

[Photo: the eponymous dish, but from the actual Roscoe's in LA, pointnshoot]

March 10, 2008

Sixteen Update: Lunch Service Begins Today

sixteen view.jpg

Sixteen has completed its meal rollout with the institution of lunch service today way up in the air at the Trump International Hotel. A brave new world! So, what's available?

Well, if you're in the mood for a sandwich, you'll be hard-pressed to walk away for under $17. That's rather considerable, and it only goes up from there. If $17 only buys you a veggie burger (with grilled portobello mushrooms and organic tomatoes [big whoop]), and $21 buys you a merely open-faced halibut on brioche, you may as well go whole hog and spend $23 on the lobster roll. For what it's worth, these sandwiches all come with relatively exotic gaufette, or superthin waffle, fries.

We feel the slightly more appealing part of the lunch menu are in the soup and salad families - have you ever heard of red lentil soup with smoked bacon broth and pop rock shrimp? Not exactly Halal, but who's counting. Perhaps you, when you realize it's $12 a bowl. As for the salads, we're mystified that marinated tiger shrimp with hearts of palm and dried cherries is the same price ($14) as mixed greens with roasted red peppers and goat cheese, but we know which we'd pick.

So far, Yelpers seem to be giving the place the benefit of the doubt because of the view (as seen above). Will this hold true in the daytime? We welcome your appraisals.

Sixteen [MenuPages]
Sixteen [Official Site]

[Photo fnac/flickr]

March 07, 2008

Now On MenuPages: Six New Restaurants!

As per usual, some of these places have been open for a year or more, but finally got around to releasing their menus to the general public, and some are opening tomorrow for breakfast.

Demera, an Uptown Ethiopian spot
Fajita Grill, an Uptown Mexican that's BYO
Fornetto & Mei's Kitchen, a sibling of the Sino-Italian mainstay, has spawned in the South Loop
Mercat a la Planxa, a South Loop Catalan extravaganza, opening tomorrow for breakfast (as promised)
Nhu-Lan Bakery & Sandwiches, everyone's favorite Lincoln Park banh mi shop
The Slab, a barbecue joint on E 79th St.

March 06, 2008

Opening: Frankie's Scaloppine

frankies.gif

From the people who brought you Frankie's 5th Floor Pizzeria comes Frankie's Scaloppine, adjacent to each other at the 900 Shops on Michigan Ave. Of course, the people in question aren't Frank; they're LEYE. It's a basically an Italian red sauce place, albeit a corporate incarnation lodged incongruously on the fifth floor of a shopping mall.

Poo poo all you want, but is it really such a bad thing that you can now get calamari "My way" ($7.95), ziti with vodka sauce ($11.95), or veal parm ($21.95) on the fifth floor of a shopping mall? It's kind of value-neutral, ultimately. Chris Borelli evaluated it for the Stew, and was surprised to find himself actually enjoying the food, especially the pounded veal dishes for which the restaurant is named.

So you're paying a premium for the soul-sucking location, and that will be enough to turn off most (all) of you, but should you end up there under the auspices of a wayward aunt or something, it won't be the end of the world.

Frankie's Scaloppine [MenuPages]
Frankie's Scaloppine [Official Site]
First bite: Frankie's Scaloppine [The Stew]

[Photo: honestly, there's is nothing Italian about the hospitality or wholesome about the simplicity. Still, you can order 5th Floor Pizzeria's pizzas at Scaloppine. (LEYE)]

March 05, 2008

Opening: Natalino's

natalino's.jpg

Natalino's is an Italian restaurant that opened yesterday in West Town. It has not received much press yet; just pre-opening blurbs in the TOC Blog and an unusually shilly plug on Daily Candy. To summarize, it's a "supperclub-esque" homestyle Italian with Chef Martine Perdomo, formerly of Piano Piano (and to a lesser extent, Coco Pazzo) at the helm, and it's owned by Michael Genovise, who previously owned Piano Piano. We think it's nice when owners and chefs travel together! It means they have synergy or something.

Anyway, to the menu. It's pretty solid standard Italian - not much in the way of nuovo. Which is not to say it's a red sauce joint; stuffed banana peppers with Italian sausage and white vinegar for $9 and organic whole wheat flaxseed penne pasta tossed with cherry tomatoes, fresh ricotta cheese and served in an olive oil & garlic sauce for $17 pretty much removes it from that category. On the other hand, it is possible to order Rigatoni Johnny, Ravioli Alla Tony D, and Farfalle Alla Mikey. These are people we grew up with in Brooklyn in the 1940s, and boy did they love their pastas. And contract killings.

If you're looking for a hearty entree, nothing is stopping you from getting the Bone-On Ribeye with sauteed portabella mushrooms and a garlic butter white wine sauce for $28, or the ever-classic Veal Saltimbocca, wrapped with prosciutto di parm and topped with melted provolone, sauteed spinach with a roasted sage & demi-glaze sauce ($24).

Why, though, ultimately? Because you can never have too many old-school Italian restaurants, if they provide good value. We eagerly await the reviews.

Natalino's [MenuPages]
Natalino's [Official Site]
On the table: Natalino’s [TOC Blog]
Eataly [Daily Candy]

[Photo: their logo, uglified by a fax machine]

By the way, in a nod to the times, Natalino's menu proudly declares that "all meats are antibiotic and hormone free." These days, Tony D is an environmentalist.

March 04, 2008

Opening: Shokolad (Chocolate, For Those Of You Who Don't Speak Ukrainian)

arty borscht.jpg

Shokolad is a new family-run Ukrainian bakery and cafe on the Humboldt/Ukrainian Village border (appropriately enough) that has been winning praise on Yelp for its pastries and borscht.

The bakery's pastries aren't explicitly Ukrainian in origin, but they certainly have a Eastern European bent, and are prepared on site. Yelpers have approved of their fruit tarts ($4.25-$5), and the Dish has shouted out the Opera Cake ($4.25 a slice). They also make crepes, including a Ukranian Sweet Cheese version with sweetened farmer's cheese and blueberry sauce ($6.50).

As for the savory, there are plenty of standard sandwich options, but why not try the somewhat cultural roast beef panini with caramelized onion, horseradish cream and gruyere ($6.99), or just give into the obvious and get a bowl of borscht ($3.00). You could get a cup of Umbria coffee to go with it, but why not try Russian Black tea ($1.75 for large).

The place has only been open six weeks, but we haven't heard a negative word yet. Could be a keeper!

Shokolad [MenuPages]

[Photo: arty borscht, bradsukala/flickr]

February 29, 2008

Opening: NXXT Restaurant & Bar

nxxt interior.jpg

Our heart burned last week when we saw an imploration on LTHForum last week for us, in particular, to put NXXT Restaurant & Bar's menu online. Well, ask and ye shall receive, apparently. NXXT, located in, um, East Humboldt/West Ukie Village or something, is an upscale American comfort food restaurant with a pretty hip interior aesthetic. The guy who designed it was kind enough to put up a website whence we snatched the above photo.

As for the food, we rated it a $$$$ (meaning entrees average between $18 and $24), which is technically true but it glosses over the wide range of entree prices, from the $9 10oz Angus burger with sweet potato fries or grilled Vermont cheddar on "hearty" toast with roasted tomato bisque to the $28 grilled bone-in Kansas City cut sirloin with spinach and giant tater tots or the $30 seared lamb chops with wild mushrooms ragout and cauliflower puree.

These four items should be enough to orient you to the restaurant's pulse of semi-sophisticated riffs on classic American dishes. The reason everyone is doing upscale comfort food these days is...everyone likes it! And it seems like NXXT is doing a good job so far, impressing patrons with its fashion-forward interior, professional service, and especially the tasty burgers. It looks like this place has some real traction.

NXXT Restaurant & Bar [MenuPages]
NXXT Restaurant & Bar [Official Site]
NXXT Restaurant & Bar [leonardo bonanni]
Nxxt in West Ukrainian Village (East Humboldt Park?) [LTHForum]

[Photo: leonardo.bonanni/flickr]

February 28, 2008

New On MenuPages: Masouleh, Nia, NXXT, Tallulah

All you menuphiles, clamor no longer! We will do more extensive profiles in the upcoming days, but for those of you already in the know, we now have the menus for Masouleh, Nia, NXXT Restaurant & Bar, and Tallulah. This is moderately impressive since only one of them has a functioning website at the moment (Tallulah; although Google doesn't seem to know it yet, so what use are they?) Anyway, get excited!

February 22, 2008

Now On MenuPages: Matsuya, Villa Rosa, Dark Horse, Noodles & Company (Again)

Yesterday, we brought you five new additions to the MenuPages family. Here's four more:

Matsuya is a Wrigleyville Japanese and sushi restaurant; we use the distinction because it used to be mostly tempura and teriyaki and such, and now there's a substantial raw fish menu as well.

The Dark Horse is a Wrigleyville "tap and grille" that "provides the comfort of a neighborhood tavern, the class of a English Pub and the excitement of a sports bar all in a cozy setting." We got that lit from their website, and it made us chuckle. On the other hand, Mondays are $1 burger night.

Villa Rosa Pizza & Restaurant is a local chain; this branch is out by Midway. We were speaking of pepper and eggs earlier, and sure enough, Villa Rosa has such a sandwich for $3.30. That is exact.

Noodles & Company ought to sound familiar to the astute reader, since we also put one online yesterday. In doing so, we discovered that they have a Lincoln Park location in addition to their Loop store. So now you can get Indonesian "Saute" anywhere you want to be!

February 21, 2008

Now On MenuPages: Cafe Marbella, Cafe Mediterra, The Grill, Noodles & Company, Rick's Cafe

Nothing brings us more joy than bringing you new menus! Here's what's on:

Cafe Marbella, Tapas, 3446 W Peterson Rd:

Tastiest Tapas - Higos Con Tocino (wrapped figs with bacon, served with brandy cream sauce), $6.95

Choice Quote - "With its combination of BYO status, easy parking, fabulous tapas and low prices, Marbella is easily the best new place I know for big convivial dinners on a wintry night." - Monica Eng, The Stew

Café Mediterra, Mediterranean, 728 S Dearborn St:

Savoriest Speciality - Kallayah (beef tenderloin tomato stew; prime tenderloin beef cubes sauteed with peppers, onions and fresh herbs), $12

Choice Quote - "I give that the food and drinks are very respectable, but I'm still angry this place gave up its homey, inviting feel for cafe roamers (back when it was Cafe Gourmand) in favor of doing itself up (or whatever) to be a more typical downtown establishment." - Seth M., Yelp

noodles & co indonesian saute.jpgThe Grill, American & Southern Catering, 1959 W 13th St:

Most Exciting Meat Option - tie between baked turkey legs and beef neck bones. Also, brown sugared ham. (Part of $17.95 per person catering menu)

Choice Quote - "Try the salmon croquettes, beef short ribs, and the honey baked turkey legs are to die for!" - a shill on MenuPages. Good try, guys!

Noodles & Company, global noodle shop, 180 N Michigan Ave:

Least Boring Noodle - Indonesian Peanut Saute (a spicy peanut sauce and rice noodle stir-fry with broccoli, carrots and cabbage. Asian sprouts, cilantro, crushed peanuts and lime on top. Tasty with chicken breast), $7.25 for a large with chicken. Probably Indonesian in name only. And shouldn't it be "satay"?

Choice Quote - "Nation's Restaurant News declared it a Hot Concepts! winner in 2001. Ernst & Young named Kennedy Entrepreneur of the Year in the "consumer products" category in 1993. ColoradoBiz magazine named it the top retail/wholesale company in Colorado in 2003." - Wikipedia

Rick's Cafe Chicago, French/Italian/Spanish (!), 3915 N Sheridan:

Most expensive entree - tie, Paella Valenciana (arborio rice, clams, mussels, salmon, sea scallops, shrimps and vegetables, seasoned with pure saffron and cooked in an authentic paella pan) and Filet Mignon (grilled and topped with our chef's red Bordeaux sauce with mashed potatoes), both $27.95

Choice Quote - "Rick's Cafe Chicago is a cozy and romantic, upscale, BYOB cafe featuring dishes from France, Italy, and Spain...18 years of dedicated experience!" - their website. Well, if they've been around 18 years, they must be doing something right. Like BYOB.

[Photo: Noodle & Company's infamous Indonesian Saute, from their website]

February 13, 2008

Dispatches From Evanston: Wild Thing Union Pizzeria Now Open

campagnola.jpg

We were sitting here minding our own business when we got an email from the Chicagoist, asking if we had the contact information for Union Pizzeria in Evanston. Obviously they would have just Googled it if it were Googleable, but Chicagoist had some hints for us anyway. Namely, that the restaurant was at the address (1245 Chicago Ave) previously assigned to Wild Thing, a Steve Schwartz (of Campagnola) production.

Even though Evanston is off our beat (not for any good reason), we couldn't resist an info challenge, and we certainly did not want to let Chicagoist down! So we called up Campagnola and got Mr. Schwartz on the phone - turns out that Union Pizza is simply Wild Thing renamed, and it opened for dinner last night, and it's open for dinner tonight, and the phone number is (847)-475-2400. But if you want to speak to Steve right this minute, try him at Campagnola (847-475-6100), since that's where he is.

Campagnola [Official Site]

[Photo: Campagnola's photomontage from the website, to give you a sense of Mr. Schwartz's aesthetic]

February 05, 2008

Opening: Sixteen At The Trump International Hotel & Tower

sixteen dining room.jpg

Ever since we first heard word of the impending Trump International Hotel & Tower and its "world-class, chef-driven signature restaurant" on the 16th floor, we knew the day would come where we'd be forced to introduce its menu to the world. Now we know why they call it Super Tuesday! Because of new menus!

Okay, the first thing you need to know about Sixteen is that no one could come up with a better name than simply where in the building the place is located! And what of the Signature Room at the 95th? Perhaps a little floor envy?

The second thing you need to know is that, starting tomorrow, Sixteen is open for breakfast and dinner. It had only been open for the morning meal up to this point, but long enough to snag a somewhat positive review in the Dish; Sarah Desprat spoke kindly of the view and the service (even though her dish did not come as advertised), and thought the food was alright if not for the price. Which is to say, $17 for eggs Benedict; $22 for scrambled eggs, smoked bacon and fresh mint with caviar, on brioche; or $33 for a Lobster Tostada with poached eggs and béarnaise. For you budget-conscious breakfaster, a bagel with cream cheese is merely four bucks.

But breakfast is just a test to see if the kitchen burners turn on - the real deal is the inauguration of dinner service tomorrow night. The menu is compact, with six appetizers and six entrees at the moment. Chef Frank Brunacci brings some global twists to the New American offerings, like the Thai Soup with shiitake mushrooms and toasted sesame oil for $16 and the Halibut Pil Pil with lima bean and red pepper ragout, served in saffron broth for $35. Brunacci is no slouch when it comes to expensive ingredients, employing Iranian Ossetra Caviar to go with Kumamoto oysters, apple jelly, and celery root slaw (a $16 appetizer), or to the latest cooking techniques, offering a Colorado Lamb Loin "Sous Vide" with fresh harissa, salsify and trumpet mushroom for $41.

Yes, it's very expensive, and yes, there are better views to be had in Chicago, but the novelty of Trumpness is sure to draw huge crowds of mildly objectionable people. An idea! Maybe to go just for dessert? This way you can have the people-watching and view and Pierce Neige Chestnut Cream with port ice cream and port reduction for only $12 plus t+t.

Looking ahead, the lunch menu (offered after March 3rd if all goes according to schedule) has a half dozen pricy sandwiches, including a merguez sausage baguette for $18 and a lobster roll for $23. Let's hope they're footlongs!

By the way, no word yet on whether the Beef Tenderloin (with braised cheeks, roasted sweet potatoes, piperade and salsa verde for $38 as a dinner entree) is made with Trump Steaks. Our guess is, hell no! We'll keep you posted.

Sixteen [MenuPages]
Sixteen [Official Site]
Dish Deux: Sky-High Breakfast [Dish]

[Photo: Artist Rendering unto Caesar what is Caesar's and God what is God's, Trump International]

January 18, 2008

Con Sabor Cubano Grand Opening Par-Tay Tomorrow Night!

Ironbeer.jpg Yesterday, we dropped really loud hints about an upcoming grand opening, so you can exhale now 'cause we're giving you the scoop. Con Sabor Cubano, the new cubano (or is it Cubano? or cubano?!) shop in Lincoln Square, is hosting a grand opening party after business hours (7pm) on Saturday. It's supposed to be for friends and family (and media?) so don't too many of you go, but if you do, expect "some adult beverages" and "samples of all sandwiches on the menu."

On our scorecard, the sandwich samples are a lot more exciting than the booze. There are six to choose from: aside from the classic Cuban, CSC sandwich offerings include roasted pork, Palomilla steak, Medianoche*, Frita Cubana (a burger with shoestring fries on the bun!), and shredded beef in tomato sauce. All the sandwiches, except the frita, are $5.25-$6.25. Why the burger is only $3.75 is beyond us, but that's a good value!

And if you don't like adult beverages, Con Sabor Cubano sells nifty Cuban sodas like Ironbeer, which comes highly recommended by Carolina of MP:South Florida (and she knows her Cuban sodas). For eighty-five cents, you can't really go that wrong - it's worth it for the graphic design alone.

Con Sabor Cubano [MenuPages]

[Photo: Ironbeer on Wikipedia. Although it would be better if it didn't call so much attention to its age.]

* we've been on the medianoche beat since last April!

January 17, 2008

Now On MenuPages: 16 Restaurants In The Past Week!

And they really run the gamut, from pizza places to Polish to Cuban to Vietnamese and back again.

One of the restaurants are legitimately new: Con Sabor Cubano, a Lincoln Square sandwich shop. It's getting decent buzz on LTH, and they're having a big ol' Grand Opening this Saturday that we'll tell you about in full tomorrow.

And there are some old favorites (someone's favorites, anyway) that we simply overlooked, like Pho 777 and, inexplicably, the Ghirardelli Ice Cream & Chocolate Shop by the Water Tower. Ghirardelli is one of those words where we always forget the second "r". Another example of this is barbiturate. Go figure!

As for the rest, prepare yourselves for alphabetical order, annotated with address and cuisine:

Adobo Express, Lincoln Square Filipino
Angelica's, Avondale Polish
El Rinconcito Cubano, Logan Square Cuban
Foodstuffs, Merch Mart salads and sausages
Franco's Pizza, University Village pizzeria
GrillInn, Rogers Park hot dogs
Hagen's Fish Market, Dunning seafood
Halina's Polish Delights, Portage/Jefferson Park Polish
La Canasta Lincoln Park Mexican
Mahoney's Pub & Grill West Side Bar & Grill
Panozzo's, South Loop Italian deli
Pizzaco's Italian Eatery, Wrigleyville Italian
Players Bar & Grill, Lincoln Park Bar & Grill

Mmmm...menus.

January 11, 2008

Opening: Lao Shanghai

xiao long bao.jpg

As promised, here's the menu for Lao Shanghai, one of Tony Hu's two new Laos (funny because Lao means "old") in Chinatown. Unlike Lao Beijing, Lao Shanghai's full menu seems available from the start. Aside from several dozen Shanghaiese specials, LSH also offers the panoply of Chinese restaurant staples. Meaning: if you want your beef with broccoli (our favorite dish from childhood), you can have it for $8.95. But you can also have your beef stir-fried with vegetables and cumin in Xinjiang style for the same price. Similarly, sesame chicken is available for $7.95, but another buck will get you the justly famous dry chili chicken, a cornerstone of all three Lao menus.

If you want to stick with the restaurant's namesake cuisine, and you probably ought to, there's nothing more fundamental than an order of Xiao Long Bao, or soup dumplings. When Monica Eng ordered them the other day, she got eight for $6.95 (although our menu says $4.95? *Whatever*) and thought they were...alright. Since they're full of soup, they explode on contact, and you really need a soup spoon for that. None, damningly, was provided! Furthermore, Eng deemed the soup component of the dumplings to be "ordinary."

Over in LTH land, G Wiv relates a tale wherein resident XLB expert Pigmon tried the dumplings and was confounded by the paucity of soup inside! This seems to run contrary to Eng's findings, but anyway, what happened next is telling. Pigmon spoke to Tony Hu himself about the issue, and another round of XLB materialized and was shared between the two. So the theory is, this could right itself through trial and error - exactly as it should be.

Aside from xiao long bao, you may want to consider snazzy-sounding dishes like stir-fried yellow eel Shanghai style ($8.95) or stir-fried rice cake with pork Shanghai style ($6.95). Anyway, like LBJ, Lao Shanghai seems to still be finding its sea legs, but the only thing better than eating a guinea pig is being one! Try to go on a day when Mr. Hu is in residence so you can pester him with your critiques - he doesn't mind.

Lao Shanghai [MenuPages]
Shanghai soup dumpling search heads to new Lao Sze Chuan [The Stew]
Lao Shanghai [Pictures] [LTHForum]

[Photo: what's inside a xiao long bao (lynac/flickr)]

January 09, 2008

Opening: Lao Beijing (Or Is It Lao Peking?)

china_map.jpg

When we heard that Tony Hu was opening two new restaurants in Chinatown on the same day, we were pretty shocked by the ballsiness of it all. Could fraternal twins Lao Shanghai and Lao Beijing live up to the considerable stature of the original Lao Sze Chuan?

Thus far, seems like no! We will report on Lao Shanghai as soon as we get ahold of their menu, but in the meantime, first impressions of Lao Beijing are...less than impressive. The menu ought to be composed of dishes native to northern China, not a commonly represented regional cuisine in the United States (most Chinese immigrants came, and come, from the southern areas). Hold on, did we say "ought"? The appetizer section seems to be sourced not from Beijing but all over the country: there's sliced beef and maw Szechuan style ($5.45; a refuge from LSC), conch in both Hunan and Chongqing styles ($6.95), bamboo shoots in Yunnan style ($5.45), and spicy bamboo in Jia Zhou style ($5.45). Now, we're not an expert in Chinese geography*, but those places aren't anywhere near Beijing!

So be it. The bulk of the entrees run in the $10-$15 range, and include pork kidney served three ways, preserved pork belly, lamb with cumin, and four duck option. Duck is something Americans definitely associate with Beijing (or Peking, really) cuisine, and it makes sense that LBJ (that's what they're calling it already; Lyndon would be so proud! Or scared) would offer a variety of preparations. You can get it shredded and pan- or stir-fried; crispy ("twice cooked duckling, marinated in aromatic spices, steamed and then fried, served with lotus leaf bun," which sounds pretty awesome); smoked with tea; and of course, full on, three course Peking duck for $29.95.

But wait! When stevez went last week for lunch, LBJ didn't have any duck at all. He was bored by much of what he ordered (although it seems like it was mostly stuff from the menu of the space's previous tenant, Dragon King), even if he was able to enjoy the lamb with cumin, which came on skewers. When Prairiedogs visited later that day for dinner, he found that the Peking duck (which evidently arrived during the afternoon) was being served with tortillas instead of the normal wrappers. Quel horreur! Even if all these kinks are to be worked out - and given Hu's modus operandi, they will be - we think restaurants should at least wait until the entire menu is available as stated before opening. Is that too much to ask?

On a positive note, LTH superstar G Wiv thought the steamed dumplings were quite good, and saw a brighter future for the restaurant. One can only hope!

Finally, in the title of the post, we mentioned some confusion over the name of the restaurant. On the menu they faxed us, it was listed as "Lao Peking." We just called them up, and were told it is, in fact, Lao Beijing. Curse you, Wade! Giles is okay though.

Lao Beijing [MenuPages]
Lao Beijing - An Awful First Impression [LTHForum]

[Photo: a map of China, so you can find all those cities and provinces we mentioned]

* yes we are

January 03, 2008

Now On MenuPages: Franco's Ristorante, Amelia's, Kitchenette

These new additions to MenuPages come to us from disparate locales, and only one is properly a new restaurant. Franco's Ristorante in Bridgeport is run by the same family as Franconello, which has locations in University Village and Beverly. All three are classic red sauce spots, but Franco's also has classy items like grilled octopus salad ($9), penne in spicy pesto cream with capers, basil and prosciutto ($11), and red snapper with herbs and tomatoes over polenta ($14). Pretty reasonably priced, too.

Amelia's in West Town was a Mexican joint up until September, when it up and turned Italian. To us, this means it can't be all that good. When you switch cuisines as a marketing maneuver, it bodes poorly for the authenticity of the food. But...it's new owners, so maybe they actually care. Why keep the name though? That's the suspicious part. The menu is not entirely dissimilar to Franco's, but larger; you can get all the standard Italian pastas and entrees, with emphasis on veal and pork. They also serve hand tossed pizzas and a few handmade pastas. Eight finger cavatelli with marinara and mozzerella ($11.99) sounds particularly good for this time of year.

Finally, Kitchenette took over Mr Thai's location on Ashland and Grace last August. The ownership changed, but they kept the menu. Again, suspicious! The new name is a good deal trendier, and it's still BYOB. Kitchenette serves "Thai and Japanese fusion," a mashup that we've railed against in the past - but who are we to judge? Most of both menus is pretty standard; jalapeno miso soup ($2.50) and almond beef curry ($6.95) stand out as items we haven't seen all over the place.

Franco's Ristorante [MenuPages]
Amelia's [MenuPages]
Kitchenette [MenuPages]

January 02, 2008

Closing: Grotto On State, Mas, Meritage, Timo

closed forever.jpg

Two thousand eight has arrived, and with it, several high-profile casualties. Chicago restaurants, we mean; in other spheres, too, but we're going to leave that be for now. Restaurants that closed 12/31 or 1/1 include Grotto on State (reopening in Oakbrook in a few months), Meritage Cafe & Wine Bar (owner Chris Packet is opening something new in the space next month, maybe), Mas (for whatever the reason), and Timo.

Timo is the saddest one, since John Bubala's Baccala and Thyme Cafe both closed this year. So no more of Bubala's famous rustic Italo-French cuisine in Chicago, for now. The Food Chain reported that the food costs and rent were becoming onerous, and that John wanted to spend more time with his family. Well, who can blame him. But anyway, more restaurants plz! Bubala and Chicago are symbiotic.

Worth noting is that none of the four restaurants' websites reflect the respective shutterings. Hello, this is the internet and websites are supposed to be up-to-the-minute. And what is the point of a restaurant website if not to tell people whether the restaurant is open or closed! The restaurant may have died, but the alive-and-well owner ought to get on that business. We will check back in two weeks to see who's done what.

Grotto on State [MenuPages]
Grotto on State [Official Site]
Mas [MenuPages]
Mas [Official Site]
Meritage Cafe & Wine Bar [MenuPages]
Meritage Cafe & Wine Bar [Official Site]
Timo [MenuPages]
Timo [Official Site]

[Photo: bondidwhat/flickr]

December 14, 2007

New On MenuPages This Week: Lockwood, Mythos, Frankie's, Nonna's

And that's not even the half of it! Let's go through MP's newest listings, annotated with their kookiest menu items:

Asian Mix Cafe: Crispy Golden Wings - chicken wings served with spicy sweet & sour sauce ($5; it's what you get when you fry an angel)

• Beans & Bagels (Ravenswood; Uptown): the Korntucky sandwich, with tuna, cheddar, dijon mustard, on polish rye ($4.85; contains no corn!)

Connoisseur: Creole Napoleon, which is creole tomato, feta cheese and spring mix with a balsamic vinaigrette ($8; it was spelled "Napolean" on the copy of the menu they faxed us)

Frankie's 5th Floor Pizzeria: Left Hand Milk Stout beer ($4.95; sounds like a sleazy sexual maneuver)

King Cafe: Berry & Blue Salad with strawberries, Maytag blue cheese, candied pecans & sherry vinaigrette ($6; sounds like a 70s band)

Lockwood: Surf, Turf And Turf, consisting of prime filet mignon, braised short ribs, butter poached Maine lobster; puree potatoes, sautéed spinach, sauce béarnaise, sauce bordelaise ($52; holy moly. Also, their website doesn't have prices but we totally do!)

Mythos Greek Taverna: Kolokythakia Keftedes, or zucchini & cheese patties served with a side of skordalia ($9; transliterations give us the giggles)

Nonna's Italian Pizzeria: The Big Daddy sandwich, i.e. Italian beef and sausage combo topped with green peppers, onions, and marinara sauce ($6.45; "Big Daddy" makes us think of the Golden Girls)

Prosecco: Lumache Di Romano, a.k.a. snail, prosciutto di Parma, vecchia Romagna garlic cream reduction ($11; did not know the Italians do snail, but not surprised)

Troha's Chicken & Shrimp House: Upper 10 ($0.92 a can; it's the poor man's 7-Up)

Hyde Park Co-Op's Future TBD TMRW

cooplogo-sm.jpg The Sun-Times has a story on the Hyde Park Co-Op saga that we've been following. The latest is that everyone's voted, and tabulation is expected to be complete by this evening. When the results are announced tomorrow, chances are that the Co-Op will have to pack its knives and go, to be replaced either by a Dominick's or Treasure Island. We'll let you know the results on Monday.

Fate of S. Side grocer nears [Sun-Times]

[Photo: Hyde Park Co-Op]

December 13, 2007

Openings: Restaurants Named After Romance Language Words

We are pleased to share with you the menus for Prosecco and Connoisseur, two new restaurants that are named, as the post title said, after romance language words. The names are precious and pretentious. Let's hope more can be said for the restaurants themselves!

Prosecco is a River North Italian "ristorante" from the people who brought you Narcisse, Domaine and Sparacino (we can see the roots of the naming convention). The menu is a little on the pricey side - you might wonder why the avocado salad is $14, until you realize it contains baby lobster tail and prawn. A plate of mozzarella, prosciutto and tomato goes for $15, but rest assured you can spend more. We have to admit being intrigued by the $38 Costoletta Di Vitello Al Cartoccio, which is a veal chop with caramelized onion, cremini, and prosciutto di parma, baked in parchment paper. A full rack of lamb with a red grape balsamic reduction and garlic spinach is $37, and you're back up to $38 with the Filetto Di Manzo (filet of beef, sun-dried tomato butter, caramelized shallot port wine reduction, horseradish mashed potato). The bulk of the entrees are in the low to mid 20s, but what's the fun in that? Prosecco (the wine) is all about seizing the joy in life, and how better to do so than spending a lot on dinner.

ParisHiltonProsecco-w.jpg Connoisseur, across the Chicago in River West, is a, um, how does the press release put it? "Chicago’s premier boutique restaurant and wine bar providing a hybrid of conversational lounge and chic small plate restaurant set in the cities vibrant River West neighborhood." Sure they are. Whoever wrote this press release is obviously not a connoisseur of grammar. It is really gratifying to see the hard sell of sophistication fall apart over substituting pluralization for possession. So basically, we can never take this place seriously now, especially since the press release goes on:
"I've seen wine bars and champagne lounges in Europe and New York and I think Chicago is ready," said Managing Partner Frankie Versean Cox. Chicago’s haven from the conventional club and bar scene unveils distinguished character, drink service and an exquisite menu that presents Chicagoan’s with something new in which to indulge.
Excuse me, there are no other wine bars in Chicago? That is news! And the last sentence's pluralization/possession error really seals the deal.

But in the interest of fairness, let's take a look at the menu. There's a crab and brie dip for $12, crawfish etouffee for $14, and a lobster and chili ceviche for $16. The menu (designed by Philipp Vitti of TRU) is a little crustacean-heavy at the moment, but apparently it's still under construction. The wine list is much more extensive, but ends in the technically implausible promise that "[their] wine program is developing exponentially!" Perhaps they'll want to change the name to Billions of Bottles? Then we would forgive them.

Prosecco [MenuPages]
Prosecco [Official Site]
Connoisseur [MenuPages]
Connoisseur [Official Site]

[Photo: Paris Hilton, prosecco connoisseur, holding a can of the stuff (Avenue Vine)]

December 05, 2007

Now On MenuPages: Milk & Honey Bake Shop

milk & honey.jpg Last week, Drive-Thru had a piece on the new vegan offerings at Milk & Honey Bake Shop. Which reminded us that, try as we might, we hadn't been able to get its menu. Milk & Honey's website isn't helpful in the slightest, letting us know in two different places that the Bake Shop's menu is not available online. And we knew from experience that the Bake Shop is sans fax machine.

But we overcame these technological challenges and got the menu the old fashion way - a very nice clerk dictated it to us over the phone. And so, we learned about the breakfast panini whose ingredients change every day (served until noon for $5.25), the smoked turkey reuben for $6.25, and that baked goods like scones, muffins, granola and cookies are available every day in addition to a variety of specials.

Okay, this is all well and good. But we have a proposal for you: if anyone comments or emails us requesting a full list of ingredients for the sandwiches, we will call Bake Shop and get them. It doesn't matter to us if you actually care or not, if you just want to make us to extra work, or even if you're doing it to burden the lady at Bake Shop in absentia for some sick reason. Really!

So, we'll be loitering around our inbox if you need us.

Milk & Honey Bake Shop [MenuPages]
Milk & Honey Bake Shop [Official Site]

[Photo: their famous granola]

November 30, 2007

New On MenuPages: Sixteen Restaurant OMG!

While we went on vacation, a slew of restaurants opened their doors to the Chicago eating public. We've spent the last week catching up, and here's what we got, in alphabetical order, commentary where appropriate:

Allstar Sports Bar & Grill (you can order online)
Bella Rosa Ristorante (got way panned in the Dish)
Brehon Pub (tagline: "Serving Guinness not gimmicks since 1980")
Gourmet Pantry (you can order online)
Jack's Famous Wings (Brighton Park)
Jack's Famous Wings (Austin)
Khyber Pass (a branch of the Evanston institution)
King Tut (Mike Sula was impressed by the breadth of the menu. In fact, the website states that it has the "the Largest Selection of Appetizers in Chicago"!)
Korean Seoulfood Cafe (Mike Nagrant recommends ordering off the homestyle menu)
Little Chilies Thai Kitchen (you can order online)
Los Girasoles (Brighton Park Mexican recommended on LTHForum)
The Rusty Armadillo (new Norwood Park Mexican with whimsical name)
Stretch Run (this River North sports bar has OTB!)
Suzi's Tea & Cafe (Chicagoist thinks your child would enjoy this tea shop)
Violet (cute new Lakeview breakfast/lunch spot is BYO and has Wifi)
Wow Bao (on Wacker, serves Monica Eng-breakfast)

Wow. And as a special bonus (#17, in fact), we did some investigating and got prices for D4 Irish Pub & Cafe's lunch and dinner menus. Helpful!

November 13, 2007

Maximizing The Rent: New Midday Meal Options

ladies who lunch.jpg You think that a storefront and all that furniture and those fixtures and cooking equipment, etc., grows on trees? Restaurants have to pay a lot in fixed costs, and can only recoup the investment when the hourly revenue is greater than the variable costs (wages, utilities, and so forth). Econ 101 tells us that a restaurant will set its hours based on when it can earn more money than it actively spends. So for a restaurant that previously only served dinner to open for lunch or brunch generally means that things are going well. Or it means that they want to increase their profile. Or it may be completely irrational!

Three notable restaurants have recently added lunches and brunches to their rosters, and we wouldn't even begin to guess at which of the three impetuses for meal expansion are at fault.

Sepia has just added brunch, as we were alerted by Phil Vettel in the Stew the other day. (This is in addition to the lunch hours they added sometime in the murky past.) Brunch features a dozen entrees, including a veal breast hash (yeah, veal has breasts - wanna fight about it?) for $10 and an egg white scramble with foraged mushrooms, garlic, and wild rocket (which is basically lettuce) for $11. How could you say no to a side of duck fat-crisped potatoes for $4? And don't forget the increasingly infamous bacon Bloody Mary, annoyingly the same price as the entrees.

Paramount Room has also added a brunch menu, with tasty and gastropubby-sounding entrees like peaky toe crab and egg scramble with mascarpone cheese ($10.95), a Cobb salad with duck confit, applewood-smoked bacon, and all the trimmings for $9.95, and a Kobe beef burger with a choice of cheese and a fried egg on top for $10.95. Haute comfort season starts right about...now!

A Mano, which just opened, has added lunch. The dinner menu has all these huge entrees (whole roasted rourade, braised veal shoulder, bistecca alla Fiorentino, etc) that are omitted from the leaner lunch menu; instead, think salads (baby dandelion greens with roasted pepper, Capra honey goat cheese and lemon vinaigrette, $10) pizzas (lamb polpette with roasted eggplant and tomatoes, $12), and panini (veal cutlet with lemon-caper aioli, oven-dried tomatoes and romaine lettuce, $10). Or, for $12, you can choose three items off the antipasti and salumi plate. We'd go with...celery root salad (apples, walnuts and reggiano), grilled baby octopus (chick pease and radishes) and mole salame (spiced with chocolate, cinnamon and ancho chiles). Not that these things necessarily go together, but simply because we can.

In the end, who cares why these restaurant have chosen to branch out to the daylight hours. Let us count our blessings and eat while the sun shines.

Sepia [MenuPages]
Sepia [Official Site]
Paramount Room [MenuPages]
Paramount Room [Official Site]
Sepia [MenuPages]
Sepia [Official Site]

[Photo: "Ladies Who Lunch," by Beryl Cook, on CollectArt.com] N.B. All of these restaurants are on the West Side!

November 08, 2007

How Doomed Is The Hyde Park Co-Op?

hyde park co-op.jpg

Perhaps more than this article in the Hyde Park Herald (click it while you can; when the next issue comes out, it will be gone from the web forever!) lets on, it seems. The Co-op has already lost its 53rd street and 47th street branches, and the neighborhood's ability to feed itself is intimately tied up in the fate of the ailing 55th street flagship. Now, why would a crappy, overpriced grocery store with a virtual monopoly over a relatively wealthy neighborhood, which itself is at the center of a giant food desert, be losing money? Maybe it's the crappy part! Actually, maybe it's the fact that they have to pay rent on the shuttered 47th street location for another 16 years! And the building's owner is also the grocery's supplier, so they're totally stuck. This strikes us as pretty stupid.

Anyway, the Co-op is over a million dollars behind in rent to the University of Chicago, and the Herald article runs down its options: take out a loan, renegotiate with the U of C (a historically losing proposition for neighborhood businesses), or file for bankruptcy. Since it's a co-op, the decision on what to do next will be put up to a vote in around a week and a half.

But an email that the University of Chicago sent around to Hyde Parkers seems to imply that even if the Co-op's debt is relieved, it may not be enough to save the supermarket:
...the University has indicated its willingness to forgive most of the unpaid rent and to supply additional funds in order to substantially repay local vendors to whom the Co-op is in debt. These actions would permit the Co-op to close without the costly process of bankruptcy proceedings and allow a new grocer to begin operations within two weeks of closure. All current Co-op employees would have an opportunity to interview for jobs in the new store as part of the arrangement with a new grocer.
Yes, the Co-op is exactly like one of those failing schools. But don't worry about running out of food! The University also states that it will "...remain committed to having a new, high-quality grocer at this site." OMG, could you imagine if a Whole Foods moved in, and half the neighborhood was really thrilled and the other half suddenly couldn't afford to buy groceries anymore? Exciting! For those of you who care, the full text of the email is after the jump.

Co-Op nearing the end? [Hyde Park Herald]

[Photo: a harbinger of things to come? Nat Hansen/flickr]

Continue reading "How Doomed Is The Hyde Park Co-Op?" »

November 02, 2007

Opening: Is Chant The Second Fanciest Restaurant In Hyde Park?

chant_logo.gif

Let's qualify this by saying, in terms of the level of sophistication of the food it serves, as can be gleaned by the menu offerings. And the answer is still maybe. La Petite Folie is number one, obviously. What is in contention for the number two slot? Well, Calypso Cafe has Tilapia Prepared Four Delicious Ways (blackened, deep fried, jerked, crusted), and Dixie Kitchen has its Crawfish Etouffe, and you can get all the raw octopus you can handle at Kikuya.

But what about Szechwan Braised Short Ribs with spicy sesame mango dipping sauce; Lobster Rangoon with lobster meat, scallions, jicama, cream cheese and Thai basil with ginger chardonnay dipping sauce; or Shiitake-Tofu Lumpia in crunchy mini vegan rolls, served with homemade plum sauce? Did you know you can get all of those things, in Hyde Park, each for $6 or less?

In fact, yes! Yesterday, we read in the Chicagoist that Noodles Etc closed its 53rd street branch and opened Chant in its stead. Moments later, under circumstances mysterious to this day, Chant's menu appeard in our inbox, and boy were we impressed by the appetizers (of which all the aforementioned are)! The Szechwan short ribs are certainly the only short ribs on a menu in Hyde Park, and later on in the menu, Asian Pear And Watercress Salad with toasted almonds, apple, and star anise dressing - oooh, fancy (especially for $5).

The new entrees they've added are not as exciting as the appetizers: Beef Massaman Curry with hormone-free grain-fed steak fillet, topped with Thai massaman curry and potatoes and served with basmati rice for $14 had better be pretty good, you know? BUT DON'T WORRY! They still have pad se-eu and pancit, for you everything-was-better-the-old-way types.

Other important information: they have a liquor license (per Chicagoist), they're starting delivery in two weeks, and they're not open on Sundays just yet. Okay, now go and judge it and complain.

Chant [MenuPages]
Chant [Official Site]

[Photo: Chant's logo, futilely advising you to relax]

Updated: we forgot to mention the most exciting part maybe, which is that it's open until midnight during the week and 2am on weekends. Wowee!

October 29, 2007

(Re)launched: MenuPages San Francisco Blog!

mp-sf.gif

We are happy to announce that MP:SF is back in business (well, it was never really gone, but it definitely had a Schiavo thing going on)! The blog (and MenuPages San Francisco, for that matter) is newly helmed by Adam Martin, late of the crime beat at the San Francisco Examiner. Neat! Actual reporting! Foodies of Baghdad by the Bay* sure are lucky he's on their side. Right off the bat, Adam found this amazing photo essay on McDonald's pizza that you'd have to click on to believe. Anyway, with two Adams on board, the MenuPages blogosphere will never know what hit it.

MenuPages Blog :: San Francisco [Official Site]

* no, seriously, that's what they call it. Has something to do with local columnist Herb Caen and the 1940s, when Baghdad was "multicultural" and "exotic"

October 22, 2007

Expanding: Pepe's On A Jag In The Suburbs

pepitos_soon.gif

We have a thing for Pepe's, and we're not entirely sure why. If we were to hazard a guess, it would probably offend people (most likely people in the Pepe's corporate office). But they can't be too mad at us, because all press is good press.

And the good press we're going to give them today is about back-to-back openings in Yorkville and Vernon Hills, at opposite ends of the Chicagoland universe. Jeez, before long, Chicago exurbia will be hard up by I-39! But we digress.

The mere opening of new chain locations would not merit a mention unless there was something about it we could specifically mock, and in this case, it's the press release/promotion that came with the notifications. Each one contains its own idiosyncratic spelling and grammar errors, but they offer the same crappy one-time deal.

First, the raw material. Pepe's Vernon Hills opening, received Friday, 10/19:
The Pepe's Mexican Restaurant and Cantina at 281 West Town Line Road, Vernon Hills, Illinois, is now open. The restaurant and beautiful Cantina seat 140. Every Wednesday is 1/2 Price Margaritas. Print out this e-mail to receive a FREE APPETIZER of your choice, when you purchase Two Mexican Dinner Entrees and Two beverages. DINE IN ONLY. Valid only at the Pepe's in Vernon Hills, Illinois. Not good with any other offer, coupon, or special or on Margaritas nights. Sales tax not included. Offer expires November 4, 2007. Please present this coupon to the server before ordering. Thank You.
Pepe's Yorkville opening, received this morning (Monday, 10/22):
The Pepe's Mexican Restaurant at 920 North Bridge Street(RT 47), Yorkville, Iliinois, is now open for dine-in or carry-ouy business.This cozy restaurant seats 100. Every Monday and Thursday is 1/2 price Margaritas. Print out this email to receive a FREE APPETIZER of your choice, when you purchase Two Mexican Dinner Entrees and Two Beverages. Dine In Only. Valid only at the Pepe's in Yorkville, Illinois. NOt good with any other offer, coupon or special, or on Margaritas nights. Sales tax not included. Offer expires November 11, 2007. Plese pesent this coupon to the server before ordering. THank You.
Obviously, we've done nothing to adulterate the purity of the texts. We have to wonder why these would get sent out without a basic spell check, though. Something must have gone way downhill over the weekend, what with "Iliinois," "carry-ouy," and "plese pesent" tarnishing the Yorkville opening. Are we the only people who'd avoid a restaurant based on press release typos alone? We certainly hope so! This level of stringent orthodoxy is difficult to maintain and probably counterproductive for the average citizen.

But the real eyebrow-lowerer is the offer of a free appetizer with purchase of two dinners and two beverages. And you have merely a fortnight to get on the bandwagon! First of all, what's with the incessant capitalization of nouns? Does it look like we're in Germany or something?! Second, that is a hell of a lot of stuff you need to buy before you get your free appetizer. Even if it doesn't take that much money to get up there, it's still an onerous set of conditions. Very grudging-sounding. Then again, who can resist the lure of a "beautiful Cantina," especially one with seating for an intimate 140 guests? Just don't try your luck on Margarita nights.

Pepe's [Official Site]

[Photo: we're cannot wait to join Pepitos Club]

October 19, 2007

New On MenuPages: Twenty-One Restaurants OMG!

The other day, we noted that we were busy making updates to the site in order to excuse ourselves for the low blogging volume, and we just wanted to let you know that we weren't sh*tting you. Here's what's new on the site in the past week, in alphabetical order, commentary where appropriate:

Al's Pizza (way the hell out in Dunning)
Brasserie Ruhlmann (New!)
Coco's (the fried lobster place)
Dollop Coffee Co
El Cubanito (check out the photos on LTH)
Forno Diablo
Franconello (the original, in Beverly)
Franconello (in University Village)
La Encantada (we're almost positive someone wrote an article on this recently!)
La Isla Cafe
La Madia (New!)
Mac Kelly's Greens n' Things (in the Loop)
Mac Kelly's Greens n' Things (also in the Loop! You may recall we tried to clarify this on Tuesday)
Macello (New!)
Pepitone's (New!)
See Thru Chinese Kitchen (in Woodlawn)
Stephanie (all we know about this Albany Park restaurant is that they serve Ecuadorian food on Sundays)
Thalia Spice (sort of new)
Tickie's Belizean Cuisine (Belizean? Neat!)
Torpedo's (KPang's new favorite sub shop)
Wow Bao (in the Loop)

Phew! Good for us! Good for you!

October 17, 2007

Closing (Temporarily): Dodo

Drive-Thru scooped us on it, but we still feel it's worth mentioning that perennial breakunch favorite Dodo is closing on October 28th in order to escape their evil landlord's electricity-based malfeasance (press release totally implied that!)

In early 2008, expect Dodo to reopen approximately 3/4 of a mile south of its current location - because 60612 is the new 60622. Maybe they will bring back dinner?! Anyway, we'll keep you posted.

Dodo [MenuPages]
Dodo [Official Site]

October 16, 2007

Opening: Brasserie Ruhlmann

We were directed to an article in Esquire on the best new restaurants in America in 2007, and we were equal parts incensed and outraged that not a single Chicago opening made the list. In 2007 openings starting with the letter 'S' alone we have Sepia and Shikago! We canvased the other MP:bloggers, and none of them were overly impressed with the restaurants chosen for their cities. Maybe John Mariani has a thing against Illinois?

We bring this up because...2007 is not over yet, baby! Brasserie Ruhlmann opened mere moments ago, and all of Chicago is abuzz. Wait, what's that? You don't really care? BUT WE CARE.

In case you were wondering, it's basically the same principle as Brasserie Ruhlmann at Rockefeller Center in New York, brasserie ruhlmann.jpg where people rather seem to like the (modernized) classic French brasserie fare. How's that different from classic French bistro fare? Mostly in atmosphere - think of a brasserie as brassier. Also, more raw seafood. A lot more. Like, $115 will buy you Le Plateau Royale, with twelve oysters, thirty-six shrimp, six mussels, six Manila clams, six Cherrystone clams, cookies, periwinkles, and tuna tartare. That is over sixty-six individual organisms for your gustatory delight, not even counting the precious little periwinkles. Should that not be enough, lobsters and king crabs can be added at market price, a figure which ought not concern you in the slightest!

Chef Christian Delouvrier, who's put in time at Lespinasse and Restaurant Alain Ducasse, has a whole host of entrees to entreat you past the raw bar section of the menu, like Carree De Porc (oven roasted pork tenderloin with mustard sauce and carmelized endives, $28), Bouillabaisse (bass, snapper, scallops, clams, mussels, shrimp, aioli-rouille cheese, also $28), and the infamous Chateaubriand (filet of beef for two with macaroni au gratin, $65). So...nothing on the menu that you have not seen before, but sometimes, the name of the game is high quality French food done right, innovation and daring be damned. And if the asparagus hollandaise needs to be $11 for a side order, so be it - cannot but be delicious asparagus. Because if it's not delicious, all hell's going to break loose.

Brasserie Ruhlmann - Chicago [MenuPages]
Brasserie Ruhlmann - New York [MenuPages]
Brasserie Ruhlmann - New York [Official Site]
The Best New Restaurants in America, 2007 [Esquire]

p.s. There's no Ruhlmann the chef who started all this off in a small kitchen in Paris, obviously. The restaurant's name is a "homage to the great Art Deco designer Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann," according to their website. Take it or leave it.

[Photo: some sort of elaborate fish preparation, Brasserie Ruhlmann - New York]

October 15, 2007

Now On MenuPages: Coco's Famous Deep Fried Lobster

deep-fried lobster.jpg Do not be alarmed! It is OK to deep-fry lobster - Roadfood says so. The comments from fried lobster lovers seem to be coming in from all over the country, except maybe New England (MP:Boston almost had an aneurysm when we described the dish).

And just because Chicago's premiere fried lobster dispensary is a charmless storefront just south of the Loop doesn't mean you should deny yourself the pleasures of this indulgent delicacy. Or anyway, so implies the user who submitted Coco's to us last week, noting, "The have they best Fried Lobster I've ever had, and the rest of the menu is just as great." The lobster in question comes with fries (TOC says they're good), bread and coleslaw, $10.50 for a small and $21 for a large. If you clicked through to the TOC article, you'll note that these prices are up $.65 and $1.05, respectively, from five months ago. This could be cyclical, or because of the increasingly meagre lobster harvests, or increased transportation costs. Each option is bad!

Coco's also has wings and burgers and whatnot, but clearly you are not going there for anything but the fried lobster. And really, we want to assure you that it's not a crime against eating to deep fry lobster! Especially when it's one of those tails that's been deep-frozen and put in a box and sent to Costco (a good maxim: it's okay to deep fry anything that's been deep frozen). It would be horrific if all lobster were eaten fried, but we think it's perfectly acceptable as an occasional treat. Fry on, Coco, fry on.

Coco's [MenuPages]
Fine diving [TOC]

[Photo: not Coco's, but certainly tasty-looking, Rather Salty/flickr]

October 10, 2007

Openings: Honky Tonk Barbecue & TeaGschwendner

Okay, a mea culpa: TeaGschwendner, a candidate for the least intuitively pronounceable restaurant name in Chicago, isn't really new at all - but it's taken us all this time to get their menu, and since it's not on their website, we consider it a victory, and because it's the only menu in Chicago that we know of with suggested tea pairings, we think it's worthy of your attention.

honky tonk.jpg But first, let's talk about Honky Tonk. Once a peripatetic wagon that catered parties and neighborhood events, chef-owner Willy Wagner evidently got enough positive feedback to decide to settle down in Pilsen, where Honky Tonk has been open for a few weeks. Monica Eng reported on her opening night experience last week, and quite enjoyed the pulled pork sandwich ($6.50) and baby back ribs ($11/half, $18/full). The vibe is down-home hipster (is that what Austin's like?), which shows in the dinner item entitled "What Your Girlfriend Wants." If that's the answer, then the question is, what are mesclun greens with jicama matchsticks, Michigan blueberries, walnuts and goat cheese for $8, Alex. Three things:

1) The source menu used "mesculin" instead of "mesclun." Apparently, the former is the Latin derivation and the latter is the French. We prefer the latter, to better differentiate from mescaline
2) Wow, that's really sexist and heteronormative. All of our girlfriends are pissed.
3) Ms. Eng thought the salad was underdressed, but otherwise tasty.

But don't let the wording on that single menu item deter you; this seems like a great addition to the neighborhood.

Okay, now for TeaGuh...TeaGish...whatever, you know what we're talking about. TeaGschwendner, on Halsted, is a tea shop of German origin (duh) that now serves a fairly substantial cafe menu. As we said, its main distinctive feature is that is suggests tea pairings for each item, in addition to incorporating tea into many of the dishes. For example, the marinated chicken wrap comes in two versions: spicy (Lapsang-marinated chicken breast, romaine, tomato, red onion, smoked gouda cheese and chipotle mayo wrapped in a spinach tortilla, served with terra chips) and apple (Lapsang-marinated chicken breast, tomato, romaine, apple, bacon, brie cheese and apple tea vinaigrette wrapped in a whole wheat tortilla, also served with terra chips). Each one is $8, and can be paired with 1302 rooibush (herbal), 153 assam hattaialli (black), or 1500 magic flute (fruit). We imagine the numbers correspond to some sort of internal cataloging system, but regardless of whether these choices even make any sense, we're impressed that they're proffered at all. Good job intriguing us, TeaGschwendner!

Honky Tonk Barbeque [MenuPages]
Honky Tonk Barbeque [Official Site]
First bite: Honky Tonk brings barbecue to Pilsen [The Stew]
TeaGschwendner [MenuPages]
TeaGschwendner [Official Site]

[Photo: an adorable logo if we've ever seen one, Honky Tonk]

October 09, 2007

Closed: Schwa

schwa.jpg Well, this is old news by now (seriously!), but Schwa has closed indefinitely as of last Friday night or so, when Charlie Trotter took the gang out to dinner there - nice to go out on a bang, we guess. Schwa's closing seems to have nothing to do with lack of critical acclaim or slow business (because neither of those things were the case at all), but instead, because of owner-chef Michael Carlson's undisclosed "personal issues." For everyone's sake, we hope this is only a temporary situation.

By the way, were we the only people who had Columbus Day off? Some busy bees in/on the Chicago Food Blogosphere!

Schwa [MenuPages]
Schwa [Official Site]

[Photo: a schwa, Lonely Goat]

October 04, 2007

Only Because We Promised Something New: Via Carducci La Sorella

Via Carducci La Sorella. That's mildly exciting, right? People like the original Via Carducci, and now you can get their classic Calabrian flavors without having to leave Wicker Park. Lucky you!

Via Carducci La Sorella [MenuPages]
Via Carducci [MenuPages]
Via Carducci [Official Site]

October 03, 2007

New On MenuPages: Restaurants On The Outskirts

Some of you are going to be all like "blah blah blah that's not the outskirts, it's where I was born and raised, Goddammit, and it's more Chicago than you'll ever be!" But we don't care. Here's what's new:

pop's italian beef.jpg

Rogers Park Pizzeria just opened, in fact, and nobody doesn't like a new pizza place. It's not really all that cheap (a slice of cheese is $2.25), but they have all sorts of fun crap like wings ($10 for $4.99), Italian Beef ($4.49), and tiramisu ($2.99). Also, the term "garbage," used to describe pizzas with lots of toppings ($20 for 18"), should be banned. Why would you want to associate your most expensive menu item with refuse, anyway?

See Thru Chinese Kitchen, on 71st and Western, is like all the other See Thrus - cheap, reliable, and there. Probably the most extensive menu of any restaurant in some distance. Correct us (by sending us menus!) if we're wrong. Best part: they deliver! Don't be deterred by the curt, expressionless "hello" you get when they answer the phone; it's all love from there, baby.

Pop's Italian Beef on Kedzie is of somewhat more reknown than the other two. It's a perennial stop on LTHForum's beefthon circuit, and Chicago Burger Project was recently enamored with their IB, and especially their fries. If you were to make a trip out of your neighborhood to visit any of these greasebuckets, Pop's is the favorite by just about any metric we can think of.

Tomorrow, new restaurants you might actually care about! And that are actually new!

Rogers Park Pizzeria [MenuPages]
See Thru Chinese Kitchen [MenuPages]
See Thru Chinese Kitchen [Official Site]
Pop's Italian Beef [MenuPages]
Pop's Italian Beef [Official Site]

[Photo: IB and fries from Pop's, Chicago Burger Project]

October 01, 2007

Opening: Double Li

Okay, so it opened in January or something. Big whoop! We have the menu, and no one else does, and there's nothing you can do about it! Actually, if we have the menu, then everyone else does, too. Which is okay, we suppose. Nothing in our Internet Age remains exclusive for very long - especially menus. Double Li has received a lot of LTH love, enough to perk up the ears of the Food Chain, and subsequently, our own. Where will the circle jerk of service journalism take us next? Stay tuned!

Oh, right, the menu. Well, it's suspiciously short. There are eight appetizers instead of the usual two dozen, and two dozen entrees instead of the usually two hundred. The dishes are all Szechuan classics, so if you like Lao Sze Chuan, for example, you'll probably like Double Li. We especially like the lit that accompanies the entrees - first because at many Chinese restaurants, you only get the name of the dish and have to guess about the rest, and second because, well, listen to this: "through chef's performance, the orange peel has an outstanding orange flavor that is sweet & sour and a little spicy." This is about the Orange Peel Dish, $8 with chicken. See, you learned a little, didn't you?

On the other hand, Snow Mountain Shrimp's description, "fresh crystal shrimp with delicate light sauce, served with house special sauce, $11," raises more questions than it answers. Primarily, what are crystal shrimp? Are they these things? If so, right on. If not, this is our favorite new drug slang.

Yes, we did say suspiciously short earlier, because much of the menu is not in English! Observe:
double li chinese.jpg

Ahh! Does anyone want to translate? Probably not, but look how much they're hiding from us monolingoids - surely their best items. We guess that if anything is going to remain exclusive (for at least a few more years) in our Internet Age, it's going to be this.

Double Li - Szechuan cuisine across the street from LTH [LTHForum]
Everyone loves Double Li [Food Chain]
Double Li [MenuPages]

[Photo: courtesy of eFax]

September 28, 2007

Rollicking Through The Reader: Sweet Collective

partitioned iraq fantasy.gif

Today's Reader food section focuses on what sounds to us like a really great idea: three bakers opening a bakery together, and operating it federally - three businesses, one roof. It actually sounds a lot like the Iraq partition plan, but instead of bloodshed, cupcakes! Sweet Collective, opening in the next few weeks just north of Lincoln Square, will house a cakemaker, a trufflista, and an ice cream maestra (we know it's sexist to use gender non-neutral pronouns, but they're so linguistically lyrical!) The businesses would likely be too small to survive on their own, but collectivizing will provide a mutually supportive financial and emotional system that greatly increases each baker's chance of success. A capitalism of little socialisms. Hurray!

Triple Threat [Reader]

[Photo: uruknet]

September 24, 2007

Opening: Curio Cafe

vienna bread.jpg

We added Curio Cafe largely - no, entirely - on account of Monica Eng's write-up in last week's Tribune dining section. What drew Ms. Eng to the cute, mostly organic, very kid-friendly cafe "tucked away in a highly residential Northwest Side neighborhood" that otherwise wouldn't have made the paper? Is it that Monica lives in Irving Park and goes to Curio a lot? Stalking time!

Actually, you wouldn't catch us within 500 feet of all those children who frequent the cafe. Not because we're a convicted sex offender, but they carry germs, you know? Their kids' menu has an almost unheard-of three sections, covering breakfast (French toast with bananas and a juice box, $3.25), lunch (mozzarella grilled cheese with apple slices or carrot sticks and a juice box, $3.50), and snacks (ramekin with mixed fruit for $1.50. No juice box on that one; it's seventy-five cents a la carte. But consider the potential vocabulary lesson surrounding ramekin!).

Adults have options, too. Monica recommends the carrot soup when they have it (soup of the day is $4) and the chicken sandwich, served on a ciabatta bollo, with herb roasted chicken breast, mayo, avocado spread, lettuce, and tomato for $6.95. Oh yeah, and to the extent that it's a coffee shop, you can get Equal Exchange organic brew for $2.50 a cup, and an assortment of teas and juices, also of the organic variety.

One more thing of note: several of the sandwiches use Vienna bread, a variant with which we have little familiarity. So we looked it up, and now there's a big old picture of it at the top of this post. Wikipedia has the following to say about it:
The dough is placed into the oven under a ceiling of steam or, alternatively, the oven is injected with steam as soon as the loaf is loaded. This adds moisture to the body, the crumb, of the bread and establishes the crust quickly, resulting in a light and airy crumb. When the steam is gone (sometimes today, withdrawn), the dry heat of the oven bakes the crust, producing its characteristically slightly crisp and flaky texture. Vienna bread is typically formed as an oblong loaf, but can be baked in other shapes. As a longer loaf, it may well have been the origin of French bread as bakers there attempted to adopt the steam method to produce their baguettes.
So it's sort of like white bread, but a little crustier? You'll have to go to Curio and find out yourself.

Curio Cafe [MenuPages]
Curio Cafe [Official Site]
Organics on menu at new cafe [Tribune]
Vienna bread [Wikipedia]

[Photo: Vienna bread, Pip in the city/flickr]

September 19, 2007

Opening: Uru-Swati

At the tail end of June, Uru-Swati landed on Earth, somewhere in the vicinity of Devon Avenue. uru-swati.jpg The magnetic pull of all the other South Asian restaurants must be pretty hard to resist, because this already much-appreciated pure vegetarian Indian fast food/snack shop would have been a fine (and quite possibly finer) addition to many other neighborhoods that lack similar establishments.

But alas, if you want the pure veg, you'll have to head to 60659. Uru-swati differs from other vegetarian spots like Arya Bhavan, Mysore Woodlands, and Udupi Palace by being as much a snack shop as a full-service restaurant. The entrees run $4.95 to $5.95 (no, that is not a series of typos), and include things you'll recognize like chana masala, palak peneer, vegetable jalfrezie, and dal makhani. But that's the top end of the price scale at this place: a "mini meal" (e.g., puri bhaji, paneer roll, falafel sandwich[!]) goes for $4-$4.50, but that's barely the half of it. "Quick bites" include dosas, chats, puris and pakoras for under $4, although the samosas seem overpriced at $2.50, compared to other snack shops in the strip.

Still, what seems to set Uru-Swati apart (aside from its mission statement, "healing through food") is the high quality of the food. LTH seems to like it, at least enough for GWiv to post a photo gallery on the subject. All six reviews on Yelp give it a 4/5, which is remarkably concordant. And Chicago Foodies was pretty taken, and won't they be pleased when they realize that dosas are, in fact, available.

The food at Uru-Swati may not be revolutionary, but we'll take cheap, consistent and delicious any day. And we certainly wouldn't mind being healed, either!

Uru-Swati [MenuPages]
Uru-Swati [Official Site]

[Photo: Uru-Swati's groovy (and religiously significant) logo]

September 18, 2007

Opening: Pannenkoeken Cafe

pannenkoeken.jpg

How do you feel about...Dutch pancakes? They're larger and thinner than traditional American pancakes, but not as large and thin as, say, dosas. Although come to think of it, could you imagine employing a dosa to serve as a vehicle for fruit and syrup instead of curried potatoes? It would be the biggest pancake ever! You could support an entire unit of a child army on a dozen or so, surely. While the world is not ready for such a thing, the pannenkoeken (specifically, the pannenkoeken at Pannenkoeken Cafe) serves as an excellent introduction to the concept.

(Note that Chicagoans may think they're already familiar with the treat by way of the Original Pancake House and its signature Dutch Baby, but that's more of a German-inspired invention, and does not really resemble actual pannenkoeken.)

The cafe, in Lincoln Square, sells their pannenkoeken in both sweet (Chocolate Banana with thinly sliced bananas, drizzled with Belgium chocolate, sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts, and topped off with fresh whipped cream and Dutch cocoa powder, $7.75) and savory (Bacon Cheese, with high quality bacon and mild white cheese, $6.75) varieties, not unlike the various creperies around town.

Those two pannenkoeken make up half their online menu, but we knew better than to trust that. Sure enough, the menu they faxed us revealed a world of other breakfast options, both for in-store and on-the-go. After all, what place closes at 3pm every day and doesn't serve eggs? You can get them in breakfast sandwich form ($3.50/$4 on croissant), as one or two eggs any style with bacon or sausage ($4.50 and $6, respectively), or omeletized (the Denver is $7.25 for two eggs, $8.25 for three).

But really, who's going at this point and not getting the namesake dish? While that question is functionally unanswerable (although apparently someone loved the French toast [$5.95 for a half order, $6.95 for a full order, $1 extra for strawberries and whipped cream]), we can say with some confidence that Pannenkoeken Cafe has intrigued the neighborhood. When Drive-Thru tried to go one weekend morning, they were shut out by an indefinitely long line. They next time, they still had to wait 45 minutes (owing to the tiny size of the restaurants), and the service was similarly annoying.

It remains to be seen whether Pannekoeken's pannenkoeken will make itself essential enough to be worth the wait.

Pannenkoeken Cafe [MenuPages]
Pannenkoeken Cafe [Official Site]

[Photo: a pannenkoeken (not from Pannenkoeken, sorry), basykes/flickr]

p.s. Pannenkoeken pannenkoeken pannenkoeken!

September 14, 2007

Opening: Thai Urban Kitchen

thai urban kitchen.jpg The last big (if not necessarily best) thing in Thai food to happen in Chicago was Sura, the space-age lounge in Lakeview that received more coverage than you could shake a stick at. Well, the folks behind Sura (and a collection of similar restaurants in New York) has opened Thai Urban Kitchen, or TUK (not to be confused with Vong's Thai Kitchen, or VTK) in the Ogilvie Transportation Center. At the moment, the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and brunch, and it's in the first category where the menu really seems to shine. So what does TUK have to offer hungry commuters in the morning?

Well, how would you feel about starting your day with banana muffin eggs Benedict, with Thai basil, tarragon hollandaise and lardon, served with home fries and your choice of bacon, ham or sausage for $6. Pretty shocked that you have that option coming off the Metra, right? If you're more of a starch person, consider the Thai-style coconut waffles with coconut rum banana sauce and lemongrass syrup, served with your choice of bacon, ham or sausage for $6. We love these sorts of light remixes of classic American fare, because it encourages some critical introspection about the way we eat. Mexican flavors have already firmly established themselves into the pantheon of breakfast dishes, and now that Thai's involved, we can add lemongrass, kaffir lime and coconut rum to the mix. Will the commuters streaming into the West Loop enjoy it? Is that like asking, will it play in Peoria? We think so, and we think so.

By the way, they also have a substantial lunch pre-fixe menu, where an appetizer and entree (all the standards, but a bit fancier than normal) will cost $12 for chicken, beef and tofu or $13 for shrimp. And, hedging their bets, TUK also offers a sushi menu. And brunch! Lest we forget brunch, which has similar offerings as breakfast, but more poached egg-centric, to their credit.

Thai Urban Kitchen (TUK) [MenuPages]

[Photo: their logo, apparently]

September 12, 2007

Now On MenuPages: The Orbit Room

orbit room.jpg

The Orbit Room, a bar and grill in Avondale (yes! Avondale!), opened last Spring in a spot that did not, and still does not, have many restaurants (just north of the Expressway on California). Most of the action in Avondale is to the north, near the intersection of Belmont and Elston. But where there's a will, there's a way, and Orbit seems to be doing just fine.

What's our metric? Well, to be honest, the fact that frequent flickr Chicago Cuisine pool photo contributor bindifry has just started working there, and took a picture of their Nachos Grandes (fresh corn tortilla chips topped with cheddar cheese, jalapeños, re-fried beans, tomatoes, green onions, sour cream; $7), which is shown above. Bindifry would not accept employment at a crappy restaurant, at least in our imagination, so that must mean Orbit Room's good right?

The rest of the menu is sort of standard thoughtful bar food (mac 'n' cheese, Asian chicken salad, bratwurst sandwich, Cobb salad wrap, ham and bacon panini), but one or two of the entrees caught our eye: the four cheese white lasagna (with mozzarella, asiago, gorgonzola and parmesan cheeses layered with Italian sausage, basil, garlic and cream, $11) is something we cannot recall ever seeing before. A heart-stopping good time!

Another thing sort of new to us is related to those nachos: for $3, one can add barbacoa, which is basically barbecued beef, Mexican-style. Oh yes, that's where the word barbecue comes from.

A final consideration is brunch, which any neighborhood-on-the-go needs, and this one meets our standards with a fancified eggs benedict (with crab cakes, for $9).

This is a neighborhood spot, and if you live in Avondale you probably already know about it, but maybe some of you new to Logan Square can go check it out when the lines at your local places are too damn long again? Smiles and tables await you.

The Orbit Room [MenuPages]
The Orbit Room [Official Site]

[Photo: bindifry/flickr]

September 11, 2007

Opening: Exposure Tapas

Exposure Tapas, née Exposure Tapas Supper Club, (sounds like "expose your top ass,") opened last month in the South Loop to little fanfare, although it received a fairly glowing review from Denise O'Neal last week in the Sun-Times. It's basically a New American small plates place with a pinch of nightlife and a dash of the international. The conceit is live performances, of which they have a whole lineup scheduled for this month - the next one is Friday, and features Typhanie Monique.

Our problem with the place is not the composition of the dishes (a little boring for New American, but we've seen worse) or the prices (full plates average $31), but the flagrant abuse of the past participle on the menu. In no particular order, ingredients in various dishes are described as caramelized, cured, smoked, shaved, wrapped, tossed, topped, buttered, grilled, braised, crushed, chilled, baked, marinated, mashed, and dried. This is not a crime committed exclusively by Exposure Tapas; in fact, a lot of restaurants that want to beat you over the head with the sophistication of their cuisine use this device.

Surely, the consumer must know every single painstaking step of the process of preparing each dish! But when the participle is overused to this extent, it becomes TMI and sticks out like a sore thumb. Consider the Ahi Tuna Pinot Noir, with toasted swiss chard, roasted red potatoes, wild mushrooms and a reduced pinot noir demi-glace ($32). First of all, aren't all demi-glaces reduced by definition? Second, it really starts to sound silly, having all those participles in a row ("wild" is okay though), and when it's in dish after dish, we get a headache.

This profligate use of the participle, furthermore, has steamrolled some perfectly innocent nouns into awkward adjectives. The lobster cocktail with fresh lobster and champagne granita with chive crème fraiche and gingered vegetables (market price); the baked oysters Rockefeller with spinach, smoked bacon, cream and Parmesan cheese and gratineed with hollandaise sauce ($11); and even the truffled hand cut French fries with sea salt, béarnaise sauce and sriracha ketchup ($6), ignore the fact that ginger, gratinée and truffle are a noun, adjective, and noun, respectively, and cannot be drafted into service as past participles (p.s. gingered is a word, but we still don't like it). Cannot!

None of this should stop you from eating there, if you have that intention, but it may give you food for thought. Menu grammar is as key an insight into a restaurant's soul as the menu items themselves, so don't be surprised if you find that Exposure is trying a bit too hard to impress you.

Restaurants have flair but food seals the deal [Sun-Times]
Exposure Tapas [MenuPages]
Exposure Tapas [Official Site]

September 07, 2007

Opening: Star Lounge Cafe

We should point out that, even though Star Lounge Cafe is technically in Ukrainian Village by our reckoning, the new cognoscenti-ready coffee shop is really quite close to Humboldt Park. We mention this because, between the recent openings of CJ's Eatery, Cosmospolitan, and all those bakeries, things are really hopping out there. And what could be a clearer harbinger of gentrification than a high-end coffee shop, where, as the Dish reports, the espresso beans have their own name ("Dark Star").

And from those beans, the Star Lounge barristas create a variety of beverages. We don't bore you with cafes au lait ($2 sm/$2.50 lg), because, like, you can get that at a supermarket these days. More interesting are the "Cosmic Creations," which include an Almond Roca (traditional latte accented with almond roca, chocolate and caramel flavors; $3.50 sm/$4 lg) and the Meteor Mocha (traditional mocha accented with hazelnut syrup and caramel sauce; same prices). Fact: coffee drinks taste better when they're spiked with nut essences.

Three other things we like:
• They carry bagels from Lincolnwood's New York Bagel & Bialy
• They have a kids menu (we don't like kids, but we recognize that it's thoughtful of them)
• Wifi!

They're open every day from 8am to 9pm, so plenty of time to enjoy. Enjoy!

Star Lounge Cafe [MenuPages]

September 06, 2007

Opening: Bluebird Bistro & Winebar

It took us long enough, to be sure, but herein lies the menu for Bluebird. The critics have really warmed up to the place, citing its non-pretentious atmosphere, reasonable prices, and, oh yes, delicious Spanish-via-New-American-small-plate food.

What should you eat when you go, which by the way can be as late as 2am every day and 3am on Saturdays? It's just as well that we're heading towards fall, because the offerings here are on the heartier side. A "Bites" menu includes a paté of chicken liver, pistachio and knackwurst ($7); the "Toasts" menu has a crispy lomo and sun-dried tomato relish ($5; this can somehow be made vegetarian!); the "flatbreads" include a Serrano ham, Manchego cheese and egg option ($11, also can be made vegetarian); entrées like Ambrio Ale-braised rabbit with bacon, mushrooms, shallots and pasta ($14, and the most expensive item on the menu) cannot be made vegetarian, alas. Anyway, if all that stuff is pulled off correctly (and the reviews make it sound like that's the case), Bluebird might have a successful formula on their hands.

One more thing, on the wine menu. Everyone's been talking about how it's organized by climate and how annoying that is, but you know what? The descriptions are helpful, and the climactic notations are merely subheadings for more standard categories like "whites by the glass" and "reds by the bottle," anyway. Doesn't anyone appreciate whimsy anymore?

Bluebird Bistro and Winebar [MenuPages]

September 04, 2007

Dinner's Extinct @ Dodo

Well, it was a good run. dodo6b.jpg Dodo, the cute, hipstery Ukie Village diner, has ended its dinner experiment. The floodgates opened on June 4th, and the Chicagoist went to check it out. They liked a crostini and a spaetzle dish, but thought a butterflied chicken breast was a little overcooked, and were sort of weirded out by the tiny menu, not to mention the incongruences in the restaurant's atmosphere, which seemed uncomfortable switching from daytime to night. The review ended on a hopeful note ("We have a feeling that with a little time, Dodo dinner will be just as fabulous as Dodo breakunch."), but alas. On the plus side, as far as we can tell, breakfast/lunch/breakunch is as popular and successful as ever. We applaud Dodo for both its experimentation and its prudence in not letting a bad idea kill the whole enterprise.

North Side Review: Dodo [Chicagoist]

Dodo [MenuPages]
Dodo [Official Site]

[Photo: a dodo, Oxford University Museum of Natural History]

August 29, 2007

Closing!: Baccala

Looks like an actual reporter did some actual reporting - Mike Sula found out from the man himself (Bubala) that Baccala is closing this Saturday. Apparently, Bubala wrote (as an explanation for the restaurant's failure to attract a steady clientele), "It seemed like the majority of the customers were really looking for meatballs and red sauce, eggplant parmesan, and fried calamari." Ouch!

Although to be fair, there are a lot of restaurants that serve pork belly and enough non-conventional Italian places to problematize that assertion - maybe people just weren't ready for the intersection thereof?

We think both the fatty meat and the regional Italian crazes still have a lot of life in them, if not, apparently, in the form of Baccala. Keep on trying, Mr. Bubala!

Last chance for lamb tongue [The Food Chain]

Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]

August 28, 2007

Closing?: Baccala

We had been concerned by a flurry of chatter about Baccala's potential demise, mostly stoked by a series of sightings of the restaurant half-empty (optimists would say half-full?) during peak hours. Early signs of trouble were on Yelp:

• "We happened to be dining at what must be an unusual hour for this neighborhood because when we walked in, we seemed to have startled the staff." - Francis K., 7/20/07
• "Walking in, it was a slow night. Only a handful of tables were taken..." - Tony Q., 6/8/07
• "We went on a slow night...and my, the restaurant wasn't even half full at 7:30 pm." - Lindley E., 5/3/07

baccala pork belly.jpg The situation really started coming to a head in the past few weeks on LTHForum. First, CTB started a thread called "Baccala-Is it on it's last Porcine legs?," bearing familiar bad news: "We arrived a little before 9pm and the place was about 25% filled." Subsequent commenters talked about how both the food and service had been going downhill for months (remember, this was a top-reviewed restaurant when it opened at the end of March).

Finally, this past Friday, a second thread hit LTHForum, entitled "Baccala's Closing." User Mitch Cumstein (we Googled and we think he's for real, despite the name) reported the following:
It's true, many may have seen it on their radar, but this weekend is the last for the offshoot of timo, and all its pork filled goodness. And no I will not be working there this weekend, so this is not a shill, but rather a suggestion to go get a pork belly with smoked gouda risotto tonight or tomorrow before they are gone. I truly enjoyed the food there, it made serving it to everyone very honest and easy. Although things were inconsistant in the foh at the end, I think that losing Scylla and Baccala is a terrific blow to a neighborhood whose food options are mediocre at best. I feel bad being the bearer of bad news, but it is better than letting it go without it's goodbye's.
and everyone on LTH was sad about it. Maybe the neighborhood wasn't ready for that much porky goodness? they mused.

But we're not entirely convinced that Baccala is closing. Their website is reporting current news (for example, John Bubala did some sort of Garden Chef thing on Sunday), and their voicemail talks about taking reservations. We will find out definitively tomorrow at 6pm when the restaurant opens for the week; we're hoping for the best, but fearing the worst.

Baccala [MenuPages]
Baccala [Official Site]

Baccala [Yelp]
Baccala-Is it on it's last Porcine legs? [LTHForum]
Baccala's Closing [LTHForum]

[Photo: pork belly, screencapped from Metromix]

Finally On MenuPages: Chalkboard

Hey, guess what? It turns out that Chalkboard, the haute American comfort food restaurant that opened in Lincoln Square at the end of last year to fairly rave reviews, doesn't offer its menu exclusively via chalkboard, as we had always assumed. It was part of all their first press releases, how the menu will be presented on chalkboard to reflect the seasonal-local-variable nature of the cooking and to create a quainter, more communal atmosphere. But these days, they offer a paper menu in the restaurant, which means that we can offer you the menu electronically. Everybody wins!

And what a menu it is, full of hearty, high-end ingredients and folksy, self-referential commentary that don't always make literal sense. For example, the wild caught lump crab salad with mustards, lemon, brioche, and "any local greens I can find" ($11; quotes added) is introduced by the following: "All too often I find that the creative mind, ends up too creative...Hence destroying the initial idea. Ladies and Gentleman, I present to you the Chalkboard crab salad." Now, what the hell does that mean? Maybe that chef and owner Gilbert Langlois had spent weeks tinkering with a crab salad recipe, adding ingredients here and there until it was an unwieldy, indistinct monstrosity of a thing, and he realized in an epiphany that he needed to scale it back to the essence of the crab, supported - but not overwhelmed - only by a few carefully edited accompaniments. Langlois wants us to share in his creative process, so our experience eating the crab salad is as intellectual as it is visceral. Or maybe he's just crazy?

Yes, definitely that second thing. His salad obsession is spelled out in no uncertain terms in the description of his blue fin tuna sashimi Cobb salad with nitrate free Caw Caw Farm bacon, tomato, lettuces, avocado and Maytag blue cheese ($24), which is: "I can help it, I'm completely addicted to finding the perfect Cobb salad. The balance between the bacon the lettuce and tomato compels me." But we can't really blame the guy for wanting to bombard his customers with his bloodlust for food. When he says, about his cast iron skillet pork tenderloin with apple cider creamed corn and fingerling potato-celery salad ($24), "what's better than a lovely piece of pork seared crispy in a well seasoned cast iron skillet," it's a perfectly valid question whose implied answer - "nothing" - is not unreasonable.

We admire the passion, and it seems like lay diners and critics alike admire the end product. We're happy to finally have Chalkboard's crazy menu on the site.

Down-Home Barbecue and Upscale Comfort Food [Bergquist/Reader]
Lincoln Square's upscale-casual eatery earns high marks [Vettel/Metromix]

Chalkboard [MenuPages]

August 27, 2007

Finally On MenuPages: Soul Vegetarian East!

We've been fighting the good fight for Soul Vegetarian East's menu since MenuPages Chicago came online around 18 months ago, a project that takes on new urgency every time SVE is mentioned by a Chicago food media outlet. soulveg-carrot.jpg So far as we can tell, this has happened three times over the summer, most recently in a review on Drive-Thru. People seem to constantly be discovering its existence, what with its out-of-the-way location, semi-obscure cuisine, and fringy religious ties, but everyone who makes the trip down to 75th Street (and writes about it) seems to enjoy what SVE has to offer.

The entire menu of sandwiches, salads, sides and entree plates is vegan, and represents a heterogeneous tradition of meatless cuisines: there's some Southern-style dishes (Greens & Cornbread, $5.50), some Asian (Stir-Fried Tofu served with brown rice, $6.50), some Mediterranean (Veggie Gyro, $5.75), plus a dash of cult appeal (the Prince Elkannonn (Garvey) Burger - $5.50 - seems to reference an unGoogleable religious alias of Marcus Garvey?). All this sounds somewhat dreary on paper, but the food is bursting with color and flavor, and is generally light and healthy (except for all the fried stuff). This carrot burger is representative; check out the Drive-Thru post for a more extensive photo gallery.

Allow us to quote ourselves on the raison d'être of the restaurant:
[Soul Vegetarian East's] vegan cuisine is inspired by owner Prince Asiel Ben-Israel's religious beliefs. He and his wife Yohanna are African Hebrew Israelites, one of the purported "lost tribes" of Israel (for a gross oversimplification, think of it as a Jewish version of Rastafarianism), and among the Biblical passages they take seriously, one from Genesis stands out in informing their dietary choices: "God also said: 'See, I give you every seed-bearing plant all over the earth and every tree that has seed-bearing fruit on it to be your food." There's plenty of stuff in the Bible about eating animals, too, but whatever - Soul Veg's offerings are a hell of a lot healthier than standard soul food fare, but similarly spiced and entirely enjoyable. Good for the Earth, good for the body, good for the soul, and all that jazz.
Finally, we should point out, per Drive-Thru, that SVE's wraps are available for take out at the Barnes and Noble at State and Jackson in the Loop, but we think you shouldn't deny yourself the trip to Greater Grand Crossing for the full experience.

Soul Veg: Down Home Soul Food all made Vegan. [Drive-Thru]
Soul Vegetarian East [MenuPages]
Soul Vegetarian East [Official Site]

[Photo: Carrot burger from SVE, courtesy of PJ Chmiel's Vegan in Chicago]

August 21, 2007

Opening: Trattoria Trullo

Good Italian restaurants never really die; they just...leave town when the going is good. So maybe two months ago, Trattoria Trullo picked up stakes in Evanston where its building was slated to be destroyed and found refuge in Lincoln Square, much to the evident pleasure of neighborhood eaters.

The restaurant sports a little cafe and deli area, but let's get right to the main menu. Basically, Trullo serves solid, classic Italian concepts with some modernization of ingredients, like a mahi-mahi sauteed with a potato crust in white wine sauce served over sauteed spinach for $21, or a risotto con porcini & mascarpone with porcini mushrooms and mascarpone cheese over imported organic acquarello canaroli rice for $19. But rest assured, you will find your pollo alla parmigiana (i.e. chicken parm - boneless chicken breast baked with tomato sauce, parmesan and mozzarella cheese, $18), vitello alla marsala (i.e. veal marsala - with shitake mushrooms, $20), ravioli alla vodka (cheese filled ravioli tossed with a vodka, mascarpone tomato cream sauce, $13), and even insalata Romana (i.e. Caesar salad, with hearts of romaine, shaved parmesan cheese, croutons and Caesar dressing, for $6).

It's definitely a good sign when a restaurant chooses to name dishes in the language of origin rather than Anglicizing them - means that they care about fidelity to the food more than pandering to a xenophobic clientele. Not that you'd find much of that in Lincoln Square these days. Anyway, barring another real estate boom, this location should be around for some time.

Trattoria Trullo [MenuPages]

August 20, 2007

Opening: La Poupee

La Poupee - Hans Bellmer.jpg

Hey, another little cafe in Wrigleyville opened around six weeks ago, and how could you have too many? But don't get all huffy about it. They sell a zillion different paninis and wraps, which is totally late 90s/early 00s (remember, it's late 00s now), but at least they're cheap (all under $6) and nominally upscale (ingredients include portobello mushrooms, prosciutto, and horseradish mayo, which are at least a step above mall food court). If pressed (a reference to the paninis!), we'd probably get the cilantro beef wrap with sliced roast beef, cheddar and mozzarella cheeses, black olives and cilantro with chipotle dressing for $5.75. Or, since this is a coffee place, a triple espresso con panna for $1.95. Anyway, who knows? Maybe it's good. We certainly wish any non-chain the best of luck with grabbing a foothold or four in the neighborhood.

La Poupee [MenuPages]
La Poupee [Official Site]

[Photo: those legs seemed destined for a wrap sandwich, non? La Poupee (The Doll), Hans Bellmer, 1935]

August 17, 2007

Opening: Jazz It Cafe

Jazz It Cafe has been open for two years, but around a month ago, it MySpaced itself and is all hip and vegan and WiFi now. And worthy of attention! Take a look at this oreo milkshake ($4 sm / $4.50 lg):

jazz it milkshake.jpg


The kicker? You can get it vegan, too ($5 sm / $5.50 lg)! Because of something like this, we imagine. But they also have savory food, like this Mediterranean Veggie Burger with tomato, onion, lettuce, tahini and hummus ($6.95):

jazz it burger.jpg


With pictures, the stuff practically sells itself! Anyway, there aren't a hell of a lot of other vegan cafes in the area, and certainly none with WiFi. Maybe this can be your new applying-to-graduate-school hangout?

Jazz It Cafe [MenuPages]
Jazz It Cafe [Official Site]

[Photos: from their MySpace page]

August 16, 2007

New: Niu

No, it's not Northern Illinois University - closer to its antithesis, rather. From the ashes of Max & Benny's rises Niu, a self-described "Japanese Fusion Lounge," serving a variety of (semi-)traditional and fancified maki, and a few entrees.

niu.jpg It's probably a hipper alternative to the nearby Kamehachi, what with its minimalist decor and its "Sexy Mexican" roll (shrimp, spicy crab, and jalapeno, topped with avocado), but not by much. The most interesting stuff on the menu, as far as we're concerned, is the cold and warm plates on the "fusion" half of the menu. Here, you can try a Honeymoon Shooter (oyster, quail egg, uni, ikura, and caviar topped with gold flakes for $11), or Shisito peppers (scallops and crabs stuffed in fried jalapeno peppers for $10). We're wary of any sushi place that feels the need to offer Pad Thai ($12 for tofu or chicken and $13 for shrimp), but we suppose it's a touristy area. Anyway, that shooter gives them a reprieve from total humdrumness - Metromix recommends giving it a whirl if you find yourself at AMC River East, and that seems like a reasonable course of action.

Niu [MenuPages]

[Photo: NIU, in the fall]

August 15, 2007