When viral marketing met liquor advertising, it pissed the community off.

The mural above (via Ubiqlife) was posted on the side of Fishtown bicycle store Jay's Pedal Power to promote Colt 45 malt liquor.

You see, Billy Dee Williams' favorite brew is launching a concerted effort to popularize itself among white, indie music-listening, downwardly mobile urbanites. Say it with us: HIPSTERS.

Except both L&I and neighborhood residents are upset:

Urban community leaders have criticized ads for malt liquor, which are often located in minority neighborhoods. Malt liquor has a higher alcohol content and can be bought for cheap in 40-ounce bottles.

"This is the kind of thing you wouldn't put in a wealthy neighborhood," Tracy said.

She said her group's complaint was focused on the legal issue, not the message. But "when you have alcohol, it kind of stings a little harder than other products," she said.

She also called it an "outrage" for the brewing company to mimic the city's murals for its marketing of Pabst Blue Ribbon.

"They think as long as they paid someone to do their advertising, it's OK - regardless of the laws, regardless of the neighborhood's sentiment," she said.

The murals are part of a national advertising campaign that we've also seen in the New York neighborhoods of Williamsburg and the Lower East Side, as well as in San Francisco's Mission District. But those neighborhoods are far more gentrified than Fishtown — a place where alcohol has caused more than its fair share of harm in the past.

But enough moralizing. Can we all just agree that Colt 45 tastes like crap?

Mural-style alcohol ads anger residents [Inky]

Primanti Brothers is a Pittsburgh institution. The restaurant is best known for sandwiches topped with cole slaw and french fries (pictured). Yes, french fries.

Up until now there was nowhere to get Primanti-style sandwiches in Philadelphia. However, we just got word that the Memphis Taproom over in Port Richmond is hosting a "Pittsburgh Transplant Happy Hour" on Tuesday, July 1 from 5pm-7pm. The good folks over at Memphis are promising they'll serve up an 'Ode to a Primanti Brothers Sandwich."

From our perspective, this is definitely a good thing.

Memphis Taproom [MenuPages]
Memphis Taproom [Official Site]

[Image: Primanti Brothers via Roadfood]

Did food blog Philadining stumble upon the best bar snack in the city? On a recent trip to Port Richmond's new Memphis Taproom, they stumbled upon the bar's pasties (pictured):

"An absolutely perfect bar snack: a light, flaky pastry filled with tender beer-braised beef, accented with a creamy horseradish sauce. Really, it's worth a trip just for these. Seriously, you should stop reading and get up there and order some pasties. Thank me later."

Sounds good to us.

The Memphis Taproom [Philadining]
Memphis Taproom [MenuPages]
Memphis Taproom [Official Site]

(Image of pasties @ Memphis Taproom via Philadining)

Kenzo made it into the New York Times — all thanks to one of the its urban farms. Kensington's Greensgrow was just profiled in the New York Times:

The farm, in the low-income Kensington section, about three miles from the skyscrapers of downtown Philadelphia, also makes its own honey — marketed as “Honey From the Hood” — from a colony of bees that produce about 80 pounds a year. And it makes biodiesel for its vehicles from the waste oil produced by the restaurants that buy its vegetables.

Farm founders Mary Seton Corboy and Tom Serduk started Greensgrow in 1998 as part of a plan to grow lettuce for Center City restaurants. After setting up a deal with the city of pay rent for $150 a month, they successfully managed to turn a hardscrabble former industrial site into a thriving farm.

Even if all this talk of urban farming isn't your thing, please check out their FAQ page. Can we say that the thing is snarky as hell? Because it is... and we love it.

Greensgrow [Official Site]
Where Industry Once Hummed, Urban Gardens Grow [NY Times]

In case you haven't heard, chef Michael Solomonov's new high-end Israeli restaurant Zahav is opening on Monday. Of course, we'll have the menu shortly.

But what about Philly's other Israeli restaurants?

A few years ago, Philadelphia was a dry spot for Israeli cuisine. Apart from a few long-standing institutions like Maccabeam and Holy Land Grill, most Israeli restaurants were located out in Cherry Hill or Bala. That was fine for Philly's considerable Israeli expat population, but what about the rest of us who just wanted a boreka or a good turkey shwarma once in a while?

Thankfully, times have changed. Both of the restaurants listed above are still around; Maccabeam makes a heroically awesome shish kebab sandwich, while Holy Land Grill is part of a dining empire that also includes vegetarian and kosher Chinese (!) restaurants.

Meanwhile, there are other newcomers. We've mentioned the all-you-can eat falafel goodness of Maoz before and we're big fans of both Mama's Grill and Mama's Vegetarian. Center City's Pita Pocket also makes a mean Israeli-style schnitzel sandwich with a breaded chicken cutlet, hummus and salad in pita. However, we also want to give props to the ultra-obscure Cafe Zohar in Northeast Philly. Located on a faraway block of Bustleton Avenue, Zohar might just make the best steak sandwich in town: chunks of rib steak topped with tahini and hummus in an oversized pita with french fries on the side. Fuggedabout the cheesesteak; those crazy Kosher kids at Zohar may have just topped it.

Desert Harvest [CityPaper]
Holy Land Grill [MenuPages]
Holy Land Grill [Official Site]
Maoz [MenuPages]
Maoz [Official Site]
Mama's Grill [MenuPages]
Mama's Grill [Official Site]
Mama's Vegetarian [MenuPages]
Mama's Vegetarian [Official Site]
Pita Pocket [MenuPages]
Pita Pocket [Official Site]
Cafe Zohar [MenuPages]
Cafe Zohar [Official Site]

Indian pizza is one of our guilty pleasures. Bred in the corner pizzerias of Jackson Heights, Queens, it's a spicy fusion of pizza topped with cheese, masala powder, onions and lots of hot peppers. Mouth-searingly delicious? Hells yeah.

We first noted its arrival in Philadelphia back in January, when we found "Bombay-style Pizza" on the menu of Great Northeast joint Royal Pizza. Now we're equally pleased to have found, thanks to our latest Northeast Philly menu runs, that it's also on the menu at Villagio Pizza and Salvito's Pizza Palace. Northeast Philly pizza has officially gotten arond 10,000x tastier.

Royal Pizza [MenuPages]

Villagio Pizza [MenuPages]

Salvito's Pizza Palace [MenuPages]

[Image via Heckasac]

Good news for Northeast Philadelphia fans of Shank and Evelyn's sausage and chicken-and-broccoli rabe sandwiches: A branch of the restaurant is opening inside Cappy's — a popular neighborhood bar over in Tacony.

Michael Klein broke the news at Food & Drinq:

"Jerry Volpe, who's a partner, says he'll do the same sandwich menu: cheesesteaks, roast beef, roast pork, sausage and peppers, hoagies, fried eggplant and chicken cutlet , plus sides. None of the breakfast items, because he'll serve from noon to 10 p.m. daily."

Cappy's is located at 6901 Frankford Ave. (Longshore Avenue).

Shank's in the Northeast [Food & Drinq]
Shank and Evelyn's [MenuPages]

[Image via Holly Eats]

Oh brother. The Chink's Steaks controversy just got picked up by the Washington Post.

So here's the backstory for all of us who aren't caught up in the foodie minutae... Chink's Steaks was founded in Northeast Philly back in the 1950s by Samuel Sherman, who was nicknamed "Chink" as a child after his supposedly slanted eyes. Then in 2004, Asian-American groups started boycotting the restaurant:

Asian American groups began lobbying Groh to change the name in 2004, after 21-year-old Susannah Park, who is Korean American, heard about the small eatery from friends. When she called to ask why it is called "Chink's," she said she was told: "Because the owner had slanty eyes."

Park, now a 25-year-old college student, grew up in Clarksburg, W.Va., the adopted daughter of white parents. "I had all kinds of experiences with that word," Park said. "Growing up in West Virginia was traumatic. . . . Imagine being one of the only Asian American kids in a town that's almost all white."

Park's campaign to get the name changed was unsuccessful. In fact, it elicited a backlash when neighborhood residents began a petition drive to support the restaurant. Philadelphia magazine in its "Best of Philly" edition mocked Park and called her effort "the worst complaint" of 2004.

The comment board for the story is especially vitrolic.

Asian Groups Fight to Change Eatery's Name [WaPo]
Chink's Steaks [MenuPages]
Chink's Steaks [Official Site]

[Image via Holly Eats]

More info on the soon to open Memphis Taproom.

Our man Joe Sixpack stopped by Memphis the other day and got a sneak peak at the menu:

"Chef Jesse Kimball (right), formerly of Matyson and Lacroix, gave me a peek at the planned menu - it’s much more extensive than you’d expect from a neighborhood tavern. Look for artichokes marinated in IPA, tempura butternut squash, leek fondue, a ploughman’s lunch and lots of vegan dishes. And, in a nod to the neighborhood’s ethnic roots, the Port Richmond Platter features pierogies, potato pancakes and kielbasa from Czerw’s."

Opening day is skedded for late April. We'll have the official menu the day they open — and we can't wait. Weird almost-in-Kensington location aside, this place looks amazing.

Memphis Taproom [Official Site]
Memphis On Tap [Joe Sixpack]

Good magazine just published their list of America's Tastiest Streets — and Philadelphia is nowhere to be seen on it.

The winners were Queens, New York's Roosevelt Avenue (Korean-style fried chicken, tamales, Cuban food, Filipino cafeterias, northern Thai food and the esteemed Arepa Lady), Houston's Travis Street (New Texan restaurant T'afia, Mexican standby Tacos A Go-Go, kitschy AM joint the Breakfast Klub and plenty of Vietnamese food), Seattle's Fremont Avenue North (Thai, Greek, Japanese and Puerto Rican), Chicago's Broadway (seafood restaurants, Thai bakeries and ethiopian cuisine) and quite a few more in Miami, Nashville and Los Angeles.

So that got us thinking... What are Philadelphia's tastiest streets?

Our choices:

1) Bustleton Avenue

The Northeast does not nearly get the love it should. Just off the top of our head... Angelo's Pizza Kitchen is a killer old school Philly-style pizzeria that for some reason has a healthy sideline in barbecue ribs. Cafe Zohar is a blink-and-you'll-miss-it Israeli restaurant that's so authentic that even their website is registered in Israel. Steve's Prince of Steaks is the archetype of neighborhood Philly cheesesteak spots. And then there's Stolovaya, a Russian shrine to all things deep-fried. Fried potato and deep fried chicken in garlic crust? Yes, please.

2) North Fifth Street

Yeah, we were thinking of that episode of Parking Wars where that parking inspector stops at a random corner in the Badlands to pick up grilled chicken sticks for a dollar from some Puerto Rican lady. We admit it. A drive (or SEPTA run) up North Fifth Street means a drive from San Juan to Santo Domingo to Mexico City to Seoul. Over by Girard Avenue, Taco Riendo bridges the gulf between Boricua and Mexicano with pork chop tacos. Further up, Porky's Point keeps the faith with mofongo, tostones and PR-style roast pork sandwiches to go. Tierra Colombiana is an upscale restaurant whose menu combines South American and Caribbean items. Then as you get closer to the MontCo border, Korean restaurants like Jong Ja Jip suddenly pop up.

3) South Ninth Street

We're saving the obvious choice for last. But for optimum deliciousness, this is the place to be. A fresh-baked Italian loaf or homemade broccoli rabe pizza from Sarcone's Bakery. Chicken parmigiana from Villa di Roma. Pepperoni slices from Lorenzo Pizza. An Angelo Cataldi sandwich (extra Armenian cheese and grilled chicken, please) from Bitar's. The heart-stopping La Lupe torta with beef milenesa, chorizo, roast pork, mozzarella cheese and American cheese (!) from La Lupe. A combo banh mi from O Sandwiches. A pain bagnat and cafe au lait from Rim Cafe. And a cheesesteak from Pat's King of Steaks. Face it people, this one wins hands down.

Have a better idea for Philadelphia's tastiest street? Let us know.

America's Tastiest Streets [Good]

The pies at Tacconelli's Pizza have been named as one of the ten best in America by Forbes Traveler. Here's what author Don Burham has to say about Tacconelli's:

There may be one in New Jersey but the Tacconelli's in Philly is "The Original." It won "Best of Philadelphia" from Philadelphia Magazine, and it only makes enough pizza dough for one day at a time. Call early to reserve or you're out of luck.

America's Best Pizzerias [Forbes Traveler]
Tacconelli's Pizza [MenuPages]
Tacconelli's Pizza [Official Site]

[Disclosure: This editor also writes for Forbes Traveler]

We just added a number of new menus to MenuPages Philadelphia. Highlights:

• The newly resurrected Astral Plane Millenium

• Northeast Philly's nuevo Thai BYOB Kao Tip

• The PETA-friendly lunch truck cuisine of Viva Las Vegans

• Philadelphia's first Uzbek-Russian restaurant, Stolovaya

More good news from the soon-to-open Memphis Taproom — aka the coolest restaurant we've heard of in a while.

They've hired a new chef, Jesse Kimball, formerly of Lacroix:

Prior to LaCroix, Jesse spent two years mastering New American cuisine at Matyson, the popular 19th Street BYOB. Jesse got his Philadelphia start as an apprentice to Food and Wine’s Best New Chef 2004, Dominic Filoni at Bianca, in Bryn Mawr. He received a culinary degree and the Best Young Culinary award from the Art Institute in Philadelphia.

Memphis Taproom [Official Site]
Memphis Taproom Hires Chef, Acquires Full Time Spanky [Foobooz]

We've got good news for two of our favorite target demographics: Alcoholics and music fans.

Noche and Drinker's Pub owner Avram Hornik is planning a 20,000 square foot music venue designed to rival both the Trocadero and the TLA(*).

After a deal in Fishtown fell through to open in a space on the ever-gentrifying corner of Front St. & Girard Ave., Hornik is back talking to real estate agents and looking at potential spaces. His business partner in the project is Mark Fichera.

*: As a matter of pride, we're not calling it "The Fillmore." Sorry, Live Nation.

Avram Hunting for New Music Venue [Impresario/PhillyMag]

The world's best fried chicken is made in Georgia. No, not our Georgia — though much love to the good folks of Macon. Thanks to going to high school with a lot of folks from Russia and points east, we realized the world's best fried chicken is called chicken tabaka and it's from the Republic of Georgia in the former Soviet Union.

Chicken tabaka (Tobacco chicken) is one of those dishes that's genius in its simplicity: A partially deboned chicken is flattened, coated with plenty of raw garlic and hot pepper and fried under a brick. It's greasy, super-crispy and ridiculously delicious.

Basically, it's chicken that makes the good Colonel look like the lowly punk he is. Here in Philly, we have a Georgian restaurant that serves the dish. Piroshki on Krewstown Road is a Georgian restaurant that does a spot-on rendition of the dish. Actually, we've written about them before. BucksCo's Russian Tea House offers it as well.

Piroshki [MenuPages]
Russian Tea House [MenuPages]

[Image via Grub Street]

The Aramingo Diner's old school Greek diner breakfasts just got photoblogged over at Foodaphilia. Check out this omelette over here — doesen't it look good? In fact, MP: Philly has a whole lot of diner menus. So go have some disco fries on us.

Aramingo Diner [Foodaphilia]

Super Sunday. Gluttony. Super Sunday. Gluttony. We were just informed by the Franklin Mills branch of Uno Chicago Grill that they're hosting an all-you-can-eat pizza fest at their bar on Sunday. $6.99 earns you all-you-can-eat cheese, sausage and pepperoni deep dish pizza and the chance to watch the Giants kick some Patriot butt on big screen tv.

The unlimited, artery-clogging pizza special goes on February 3 from 4pm until end of game. Now we'll be elsewhere, eating marginally healthier food at a Super Bowl party... But we thought we'd let you know anyway.

Uno Chicago Grill [MenuPages]
Uno Chicago Grill [Official Site]

We just found out about a great Russian restaurant in far Northeastern Philly. Stolovaya, located on Bustleton Avenue near the Bucks County border, is a low-key cafe serving homey Russian dishes. There aren't any crazy dinner shows with Broadway dancers and frozen bottles of vodka here... Rather, regular, Brighton-Beach style Russian and Caucasian dishes win the day. Pierogies? Manti (lamb dumplings)? Meat-stuffed crepes? Borscht? Georgian-style roast pork? Hells yes. Recommended.

Stolovaya [Philadining]

[Image via Philadining]

This is cool. We've seen Indian pizza in a few cities with large Indian-American populations (NYC, Edison, NJ, Los Angeles, San Francisco) and were patiently awaiting their arrival in Philadelphia.

Now it's here, in deep Northeastern Philly. Royal Pizza, a tiny neighorhood pizzeria just off of Red Lion Road, serves a "Bombay-style Pizza" topped with hot peppers, onions, masala powder and cheese. It sounds a bit like the pizza they serve up at Singas in NYC and, frankly, we can't wait to try it.

Royal Pizza [MenuPages]

[Image via Heckasac]

A quick update to our previous story on the murder of a bartender at a popular Northeast Philly pub: The Daily News reports tips have been coming in regarding the location of the accused killer, John McLaughlin, the owner of another Northeast Philly bar.

Both men were well-known in Port Richmond. O'Neill, a native of Ireland, bartended at My Blue Heaven, where he finished a shift the night of Jan. 2 before going to McWhitey's, where his body was later found. Reports abound that O'Neill had hit the numbers in an illegal lottery, winning thousands, but police said if that was true, they do not believe it had anything to do with the murder. McClane said it appeared the two had an argument over a trivial matter, but he would not elaborate. Chief of Detectives Keith Sadler said authorities were pushing hard to find the suspect and that he would be caught. "We're following up on a lot of leads," Sadler said. "I don't see where this guy can run."

Police weigh tips in killing of bartender [Daily News]

The strange death of Port Richmond bartender Joseph Seamus O'Neill keeps getting stranger and stranger. On Monday, the Medical Examiner's office announced that O'Neill had died of blunt-force trauma to the head and face and homicide detectives indicated they were following multiple leads.

O'Neill, the bartender at My Blue Heaven on Pacific Street near Castor, was reported missing on Wednesday. His wife and brother found him on Friday in the basement of McWhitey's Tavern at Venango Street and Mercer wrapped in a tarp.

Adding to the high oddity factory of the case: A half-pound bag of marijuana was found upstairs from the bar.

Barkeep's death ruled head trauma [Daily News]
My Blue Heaven [MenuPages]

Over in the Metro, we've got a 2008 restaurant preview. There's Michael O'Halloran of Bistro 7 opening a new restaurant on the 13th Street corridor, a University City Mexican from Jose Garces of Amada/Tinto, Stephen Starr's new bistro and quite a few more. Oh... and Fishtown is getting another hipster booze n' food joint, the Memphis Tap Room, courtesy of the Nodding Head peeps.

2008 in calories [Foobooz]

The New York Times' City Room blog just did a piece on the Jewish-Chinese fusion cuisine that can be found at kosher Chinese restaurants. Shown above are the pastrami egg rolls and Chinese hot dogs (hot dogs wrapped in egg roll skins) of Eden Wok in Midtown Manhattan.

Although Philadelphia's Orthodox Jewish population can't compare with that of New York, we still have a number of kosher Chinese restaurants. Holy Land Chinese in the Northeast offers a menu of Chinese-American classics (along with a related Middle Eastern restaurant next door... shawarma and broccoli, anyone?) and Yi-Tzi Peking in Bala Cynwyd offers "Chinese chicken nuggets" alongside kosher sushi & buffalo wings. Then of course, there are the established Center City vegetarian/kosher Chinese spots like Singapore and New Harmony.

Alas, pastrami egg rolls are nowhere to be found in Philadelphia... But how about a treifalicious cheesesteak egg roll?

Hot Dogs From Column A, Pastrami Egg Rolls frolm Column B [New York Times]

[Image via New York Times]

The always fun Illadates crew just came out with their newest installment: Illadates Fishtown. In the video above, both tthe Canvas Coffee Company and Johnny Brenda's are among the attractions.

Illadates [blip.tv]

Man, we HATE when people drive their cars through the fronts of fast food restaurants. Check out what happened at the Red Lion Road location of Wendy's when a driver made a wrong turn and created his own drive-thru window.

Driver misses Turn, Winds Up Inside Wendy's [WCAU]

[Image via WCAU]

Philebrity recently trawled the minimarts & bodegas of the NoLibs/Fishtown/North Philly borderlands and came back with the amazing tale of... The Reaper:

Apparently, The Reaper is a soft pretzel that’s been sliced in half — horizontally — and refurbed with a few slices of ham and cheese in the middle, put back together, then warmed up again so that the cheese melts. Once it’s reached the right temperature, The Reaper is then wrapped in plastic wrap and placed under a heat lamp until bought and consumed.

Who the hell says working-class cuisine ain't ingenious?

Food Blob Special: The Reaper [Philebrity]

[Image via Philebrity]

We've writtten about popular Fishtown restaurant Ida Mae's Bruncherie a few times before. Now they're getting the full-fledged Craig LaBan treatment:

Ida's chef and co-owner, Mary Kate McCaughey, always knew she wanted a "bruncherie" because of the sense of community that morning meal taps. And she's a local, having grown up in Port Richmond and Fishtown, where as a girl she used to buy penny candy at the grocery Ida's eventually replaced. That corner space, most recently a coffee shop, was transformed by Mary Kate's husband, Feargus McCaughey, into a charmingly cozy cafe, with a bustling counterside grill in front, and a rear dining room that feels like a well-kept parlor, with stained-glass windows, wooden banquettes, arty photos, and granite cafe tables.

[...]

The fluffy buttermilk pancakes, made with a recipe from Feargus' mom, were all the better with blueberries. And in addition to the authentic meats on the hearty Irish breakfast - the rasher bacon and banger sausage - the soft soda and potato breads were griddled fresh by Feargus, once a baker's apprentice in Belfast.

McCaughey, who has also cooked at Standard Tap and Royal Tavern, doesn't limit her inspiration to Ireland. She turned out a tasty parmesan from grilled chunks of heirloom eggplants grown in Lancaster. Her "black Russian," a cornucopia of fresh sprouts and veggies gratineed beneath Swiss over toasted pumpernickel, is an homage to her Silk City days. McCaughey also makes an excelente huevos rancheros over house-fried tortilla chips, good black beans, and tangy tomatillo salsa streaked with avocado coulis.

I doubt many expected anything streaked with coulis to fly in Fishtown, a traditionally blue-collar neighborhood weaned on the $1.75 breakfast special. But the gentrifying mood has embraced the notion that better ingredients cooked with care could be worth $5 to $10 a plate, for breakfast or lunch.

Ida Mae's Bruncherie [Inquirer]
Ida Mae's Bruncherie [MenuPages]

Over the past few weeks, users here left a number of poor reviews for NoLibs/Fishtown Italian joint Modo Mio. All the reviews simmered down to the same problem: The food is great, while the service doesn't have a clue. We thought it might have been due to growing pains from the restaurant's Craig LaBan review... But Brian Freedman of Around Philly had such a poor experience that it makes us wonder...

The bad news is that I cannot think of many other restaurants here—BYOB or not, Italian or not—whose service does so much to undermine the overall experience. For while it began harmlessly enough, with only a few mispronunciations of key dishes to perk up my ears and run the proverbial red-flag up the pole, the service ended up going south from there. And I don’t mean to Sicily. In fact, it began poorly even before I arrived: Calling to make a reservation, I ended up on the line with a person of such low enthusiasm, such monotonal vocal tendencies, such (let’s make up a phrase here) telephonic ineptitude, that I felt as if I was back in college, dealing with a particular roommate I had who, if memory serves, cracked exactly three smiles that year. As far as the waitress went, she started off the evening in the weeds and never managed to hack her way out—even once the dining room had cleared out towards the end of the night. From bringing the bread out barely a minute before the first courses arrived to making us wait nearly ten minutes before offering to go over the dessert selections, I did not, at any point, feel as if I was being taken care of. Rather, the experience was analogous to that of a castaway, bobbing up and down, unaided and unguided, upon the big blue sea.

Modo Mio [Around Philly]
Modo Mio [MenuPages]

• Halloween in Philadelphia... Houses get egged, baby snickers get eaten and, damnit, everyone eats Sweetzels.

• More on the new South Street Mexican joint we reported on yesterday. Additionally, Drew Lazar mentions that the struggling Brewerytown neighborhood around the North Star Bar is getting a new coffeeshop from ex-Whole Foods cheesemongers Annie DiAntonio and Charlotte Altimare.

• A carb-free Cook & The Book.

• Montgomery County is getting a new restaurant that tries to offer "gourmet multicultural Kosher" (think Moroccan carrot confit, Australian meringue with berries and schwarma) with the new Max & David's.

• It's time for South Jersey Restaurant Week.

• Where to watch the Rugby World Cup.

• How to purchase sushi-quality fish in Philly... without traveling to New York.

• Let's give a hand to the newest in gadgetry, the one-click butter cutter.

trans fats will be booted out of the city. But now it turns out that the ban will most likely be extended to all restaurants, not just chain restaurants. That means that Isgro's cannoli, Stock's pound cake and all those other delicious local baked treats are endangered species. How would these dishes taste if we end up going trans fat free?

I took a bag of treats back to the office to conduct a taste test with The Inquirer's food experts - who don't feel much sympathy for bakers relying on harmful artificial goop to boost shelf life and profits.

"Oh, how terrible to think we'd be forced to eat truly fresh cannoli," quipped my food columnist colleague, Rick Nichols.

The trans-fat-free cannoli shell from Isgro was lacking. "There's no snap," restaurant critic Craig LaBan declared. "It's not as tasty."

No one gagged or spit out either of the Stock's pound cakes we sampled, though the trans fat-wid version was "significantly moister," in LaBan's expert opinion.

But couldn't the dry, trans-fat-free cake be cured by adjusting cooking times and temperature? Baking is chemistry, after all. Science requires experimentation.

"When you change an ingredient," LaBan explained, "you have to change the recipe."

Not too good, apparently.

Philadelphia approves ban on trans fats [MSNBC]
Logic in bakery brouhaha? Fat chance [Inquirer]

There's this old cliche that goes along the lines of Washington DC "combining Southern efficiency with Northern hospitality." We don't know if it's true... but it is a city that's lacking in homegrown cuisine. Besides half-smokes, well... we can't think of any. Maybe that's why Congressman Bob Brady brings good ol' Philly Italian food from DeNofa's in the Northeast down to DC for meetings of the House Administration Committee:

Here's U.S. Rep. Bob Brady on Wednesday laying on a spread of veal and peppers and cold cuts from DeNofa's on Torresdale Avenue. We're in the Longworth House Office Building, next to the Capitol. We're inside the office of the House Administration Committee, which Brady chairs. A sign in the hallway says, "No eating or drinking in committee rooms." House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, the Most Powerful Woman in America, is here. Here for the mortadella. "This is one great day for us when he brings the food," Pelosi says, between interruptions by House members asking for this or that. [...] "Look at this," says U.S. Rep. Rosa DeLauro, D-Conn., picking up a delicate pastry. "This is sfogliatella. My grandmother had a pastry shop in New Haven."

Yessir. Politicians like free food.

Building goodwill, one sfogliatella at a time [Daily News]

• Can you go 30 days without takeout food? The Inky's Debra Nussbaum did. Well, not really.

• Peet's Coffee is now on sale in Philadelphia. Life is good.

• Lots of restaurant openings, including a Vietnamese spot in South Jersey.

• It's time for the downsized Book & The Cook.

We don't take political stances here at MenuPages, but if you happen to be against the planned SugarHouse Casino in Northern Liberties/Fishtown... our very own Jewish-Southern resto, Honey's Sit 'n Eat, is throwing a "Sugar-Free Dinner" tonight. That's Sugar-Free as in SugarHouse-free. Here's the word from NoLibs.org:

Bring a bottle of wine, eat fabulous food, meet your neighbors, experience the camaraderie of Northern Liberties and, at the same time, help protect the unique character of our community.

Tuesday (Oct 9) from 5 PM to 10 PM, Honey's Sit 'n Eat at 4th & Fairmount will host the first of a series of Sugar-Free Dinners in and around Northern Liberties to raise money to "Fight to Re-Site the SugarHouse Casino." A portion of all diners' tabs will benefit the NLNA and its challenge to the casino's proposed location -- less than 200 ft from some of our neighbor's homes, and way too close to our schools, playgrounds and churches.

Tuesday Night At Honey's [Northernliberties.org]
Honey's Sit 'n Eat [MenuPages]

In case you haven't been up to Mount Airy or Chestnut Hill in a while, major construction work is being done on Germantown Avenue. As can be expected, PennDOT has encountered delays in the project... and it's hard on the Avenue's businesses. They need your support.

We just got word from Cresheim Cottage Cafe that they are offering a 10% off coupon for patrons who are inconvenienced by road construction. Check it out and support some local businesses, kids.

Coalition to Save Germantown Avenue [Official Site]
10% off coupon [Cresheim Cottage Cafe]
Cresheim Cottage Cafe [MenuPages]
Cresheim Cottage Cafe [Official Site]

Oktoberfest season is here. The Daily News is giving us a healthy dose of all things sauerbraten, spaetzle and weisswurst related. We're particular fans of Rieker's Prime Meats in the Northeast, which the DN visited:

The 35-year-old business is one of the city's culinary wonders. Step inside the door off Oxford Avenue and your senses are assaulted with a waft of aroma and flavor on a par with South Philly's DiBruno's cheese shop.

This is more than a deli - it's a kitchen. Specialty ready-cooked dishes, including sauerbraten, maultaschen and spaetzle, are prepared daily. Classic sausages are stuffed in natural casings and smoked in a back room. The bologna is honest beef, pork and veal with no filler or added salt to retain water.

The rouladen is the way they make it back in Germany: sliced beef coated with mustard, then rolled with diced pickles and onions and cooked in a dark, brown gravy. You can pick up ready-made sauerkraut, or Rieker will tell you the secret to perfecting your own: Add a shredded raw potato to soak up the liquid and produce a creamy texture.

There's a guide to Philly-area German restaurants and a look at a Texas Oktoberfest as well.

Wurst is yet to come [Daily News]

[Image via Daily News]

Northeast Philly regionialisms. We know all about the cult of panzarottis, Irish-themed sports bars (that don't serve Guinness!), wooder ice and complaining about the traffic on the Boulevard. Today it's our turn to scope out what Uwishunu says about square pizza at Santucci's:

I work for R5 productions (concert promoter) and when our “Near” NE Philly friends are coming down for a show, we often request that they bring us the coveted pyramid. Three descending sized boxes of this amazing tomato pie. Often you can see us chowing down at the door reluctantly taking money and stamping hands as we put back slice after slice. This is the classic Philly style cheese on the bottom pizza or tomato pie, not to be confused with the cheese-less tomato pie. Santucci’s pies have a thicker gooier crust than Tony’s Place’s circular tomato pie, if you are familiar.

Pyramid of Pizza: Santucci Brothers [Uwishunu]
Santucci's Original Square [MenuPages]

If we were you, we'd reconsider eating buffalo wings for the time being. It turns out that an enterprising businessman was selling chicken wings to area pizzerias and restaurants... that he processed in his garage:

"It wasn't a chicken processing plant. It was a garage behind a Philadelphia row home. Inside, a barefoot worker could be seen cutting wings that might have been served up at your favorite restaurant. It was hot. Flies were everywhere. NBC 10's cameras spotted chicken dropped in the water on a sloppy floor. At one point, the wing was picked up and tossed back in the pile. "He's got blood in that water, plus the ice, and it's just bacteria," the deliveryman said. They were chopped down into Buffalo wings, party wings, wingettes and the distributor resold them for a profit."

An investigation by NBC10 into the illegal chicken wing operation on Northeast Philadelphia's Tabor Avenue found fly baits on rotting pieces of chicken, fly strips and an utter lack of sanitation and temperature control in the garage where the chicken was stored.

Uhm, ew.

Distributor Found Selling Chicken Wings In Dangerous Way [NBC10]

A modest wholesale bakery in Northeast Philly supplies pastries to some of Philly's top restaurants. Wild Flower Bakery has a nice little thing going:

In the light of day, on a cafe table at the edge of Rittenhouse Square, the challah roll strikes a pose, clasping in its jaws the 13-ounce Rougeburger, one of the town's undisputed jefes.

And over at the Grill off the rotunda of the Ritz-Carlton, a longer golden roll enfolds the luxe lobster salad, garnished with shaved radish, tomato and pea tendrils.

And here and there - perhaps at Ansill or Marigold or Snackbar or other trendy rooms, or the occasional country club, or catered affair or, on Sunday mornings, the farm market at Head House Square - a cheese plate is finished with tiles of sour-cream crackers, baskets bulge with black-olive flatbreads, or an exotic, soy-seasoned, peanut-crusted focaccia may make a memorable debut.

But they're selling to the public now. Which is a good, good thing. Wild Flower Bakery has a stand at the Head House Farmers' Market that is open from 10am to 2pm on Sundays.

Top-shelf bread rises first in U. Holmesburg [Inquirer]

[Photo via Inquirer]

In a city filled (no, positively saturated) with Italian BYOBs, Modo Mio has been a hot ticket for more than a year. Maybe it's the novelty of the location, on a rapidly gentrifying strip of Girard Avenue? Maybe it's the pan-Italian menu that avoids all traces of Italian-American red saucery? Or the complementary Umbrian bread served with olive oil and ricotta cheese? Either way, it's popular and Craig LaBan seems to dig it:

As the name Modo Mio ("My Way") implies, McAndrews delivers personalized takes on traditional Italian ideas. Homemade ravioli pouches plumped with pureed artichoke and mascarpone (actually agnolotti) shine with sage-infused brown butter and toasted almonds. Crisply "panelle" squares of creamy-centered chickpea cakes lie beneath shrimp sauteed with a zesty sweet-and-sour pepper relish. Sweet little scallops tumble with crumbled sausage over linguine in a carbonara-style froth enriched with yolks and pecorino cheese.

Modo Mio [MenuPages]
Modo Mio [Inquirer]

[Image via Philadelphia Inquirer]

Northeast Philly's unglamorous Bustleton Avenue strip has been racking up the interesting ethnic restaurants lately. As Russians, Filipinos, Vietnamese and Mexicans move to Northeast Philly, they've been bringing their cuisines with them. It's no exceptions for the Turks either — a new Turkish joint just opened on Bustleton. Called "Fish & Grill", here's the word from the Inky's Rick Nichols:

"The grilled whole fish (we had a sweet, white-fleshed Mediterranean branzino, and royal dorado, moist and full-flavored, but bonier) are served with "fresh color way greens" - his way of saying a palette of baby arugula and shredded carrot. The tender grilled, marinated baby lamb chops, and perhaps the most luscious rendition of kofte - the herbed Turkish-style grilled beef and lamb patties - that I can remember encountering, are served with a vivid, vitamin-rich arugula-yogurt sauce."

The restaurant should be popular with Philly's Russian community as well - owner Riza Canca cut his teeth at the Brooklyn seafood restaurant Liman, which was popular with Russians looking for a taste of their old vacation food.

Mediterranean fare and a family's care [Inquirer]

Fishtown brunch (and now dinner) spot Ida Mae's Bruncherie just got a shotout from Uwishunu for their homemade potato chips:

What I do need to tell you about is Ida Mae’s potato chips. I know, it’s such a small thing, but it’s important. I am usually disappointed when a restaurant serves a sandwich with chips. It’s like the restaurant is saying, “We like you. But we don’t like you enough to give you fries, which we know full well are more delicious.” And then they throw one of those shiny silver bags of Wise chips on your plate and consider themselves done with you. But Ida Mae’s chips. Holy crap. They’re fresh and homemade and the most amazingly thin potato chips I’ve ever consumed. I think they’re laser cut. And I know this might be sacrilegious to say, but: they’re better than fries. Yes, that’s right: better than fries.

Mmm... Crunchy [Uwishunu]
Ida Mae's Bruncherie [MenuPages]

[Photo via Uwishunu]

This week, the Daily News' "Chain Gang" column skipped the national ApplebeesChilisTuesdays in favor of something more local — sandwich mini chain Slack's Hoagie Shack