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May 31, 2007

Blog Roundup: Chain Reactions

Houstons.jpgHouston's is one of the most clicked menus on both our San Francisco and New York sites. Sam from Becks & Posh, who fancies herself a foodie extraordinaire, had an evening there that was "perfect." Beware the rise of the chain restaurant. [Becks & Posh]

• At some point, every parent has to introduce his/her child to the horrors of fast food. For one father, it was a successful mission. This line alone is worth the read: "We walked up, ordered a Happy Meal from the predictably apathetic and idiotic cashier -- he screwed up our order, and all he had to do was press a button with a picture of a cheeseburger -- and sat down at a booth." [The Poop]

• In Manhattan--the land of holy pastrami, $30 lobster rolls and gourmet burgers--the best sandwich in New York City is .... 'wichcraft's bacon, egg and gorgonzola. We have one here too. Let the scrutiny begin. [Grub St]

• What's the deal with whale meat? [The Grinder]

• Chinatown has become a standard-bearer for the homecooked Chinese meal. [Between Meals]

Gridskipper got a facelift. And drunk. [Gridskipper SF]

Clip Of The Day: Biodynamic Heirloom Love Apples Are The New Tomatoes

If the above clip doesn't leave your mouth watering and/or really craving a tomato, then there might be something wrong with you. It's also a nice reminder of Manresa's brilliance. Even though David Kinch's Los Gatos restaurant has recently received some press for its biodynamic habits, it too frequently gets forgotten behind the legendary French Laundry and new star Cyrus in the pantheon of great California restaurants.

Manresa [Official Site]
Love Apple Farm Tomato Dinner at Manresa Restaurant [YouTube]

Scanning The Menu: Cuban Sandwiches

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With the christening of MenuPages! South Florida!, it's only appropriate that we dedicate this week's edition of Scanning the Menu to the wonderful sandwich that is the Cuban sandwich. Also known as a cubano, the Cuban sandwich is allegedly Florida's favorite snack. Though the actual constitution of a Cuban may vary slightly, it usually involves ham, roast pork, cheese and pickles. Traditionalists insist on using Cuban bread, but the key lies in the grilling of the sandwich in the plancha. Once the meat and cheese warm in their own steam and the bread (Cuban bread) has crisped to a nice texture, culinary delight abounds.

Here in San Francisco, we've only got a handful of proper Cuban restaurants, but recently, some-non Cuban restaurants have put the cuisine's finest sandwich on their menus. Some picks after the jump ... and as always, suggestions are welcome.

Acme Chophouse ($11): For a great snack before or after a ballgame, sneak into Acme, sit at the bar and order the cubano on the bar menu. It's a great alternative to the pricey--albeit delicious--steaks. Toasted cheese, smoked ham and roast pork are the items on the menu, so there are no pickles (we think), but you can be sure that the meat and cheese are high grade ingredients.

Luna Park ($10.25): Everyone's favorite eclectic eatery has a whole section of "flatwiches" on the menu, from way back when grilled sandwiches ("panini" ... as Italians cringe) were an unknown commodity. Luna Park's version of the Cuban sandwich comes with pickled chilies, gruyere cheese and aioli.

Mojito ($6): Served room temperature and coming cheap, Mojito's Cuban is traditional and simple.

Cafe Lo Cubano ($7.50): CLC is a Cuban coffeshop with a plethora of Cuban sandwiches. The Medadia features pulled pork, Black Forest ham, jack cheese and homemade cilantro aioli, but we'd have to insist on the Cuban Elvis: peanut butter, honey and plantains.

Birley Sandwiches ($5.50-$7.50): Yeah, it's not traditional. Yeah, it's in the middle of the FiDi. Yeah, they put tomatoes in it. But it's still quite good and convenient.

[Photo courtesy: Roadfood]

The Great Coke Test

coke.jpgGrowing up, we were always fascinated by the glass bottles of Coca-Cola in the myriad Mexican grocery stores sprinked throughout the Bay Area. At the time, it seemed to be an infatuation with the aesthetic of the glass bottle, a nostalgic reminder of the halcyon pre-soda wars days.

Now, we know better; it was really just the cane sugar. The use of cane sugar versus high-frutcose corn syrup (which American Classic Coke uses) as a sweetner is a common topic of conversation around Passover time, but a recent debate in the Chronicle newsroom evolved into a taste test pitting Mexico against America:

We convened an all-star Food and Wine staff panel to taste MexiCoke blind against U.S. Coca-Cola Classic. We bought glass bottles of both and sipped them out of wineglasses.

All agreed that they taste very different, but we didn't settle on a favorite.

Executive Food & Wine Editor Michael Bauer lined up with Jon for the U.S. Coke; he liked its "cleaner finish" and lower sweetness level. Food Editor Miriam Morgan was conmigo on MexiCoke, saying, "It has a fuller flavor." I also liked Mexican Coke's finer mousse of bubbles and straightforward sugar flavor.

You know, whenever we have "MexiCoke," we can't help but describe it as possessing a "finer mousse of bubbles." In fact, we're gonna have to use that at the next MenuPages' bar outing.

Taste Test / Classic Coke vs. Mexican Coke [SFGate]

The Morning Updates: Chinese Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Neighborhood Chinese restaurants

Dim Sum Bar, 620 O'Farrell St (At Leavenworth St), 415-839-7366

Eliza's, 2877 California St (Btwn Broderick & Divisadero St), 415-621-4819

Henry's Hunan Restaurant, 1016 Bryant St (Btwn 8th & 9th St), 415-861-5808

May Lee's, 1256 7th Ave (Btwn Irving St & Lincoln Way), 415-242-1006

Tsing Tao II, 1117 Fillmore St (At Golden Gate Ave), 415-409-8818

May 30, 2007

Now South Floridians Can Look At Menus!

20070530florida.jpgThis morning, we flipped the switch on MenuPages South Florida, which will cover the majority of the southeastern tip of the peninsula: Palm Beach, Broward, Miami, the Keys and more. The main site--and the soon-to-be-launched blog--is run by Ms. Carolina Bolado, a native Floridian and an astute MenuPagester. Look for the blog later this month, but until then, we welcome you to peruse the fine dining establishments of South Florida--from Peppy's in the Gables to Fat Busters--because we know that's exactly what San Franciscans like you do in your spare time.

MenuPages South Florida

On The Food Totem Pole, What's One Better Than Organic?

biodynamic_farming.pngNigel Tufnel: The numbers all go to eleven. Look, right across the board, eleven, eleven, eleven and...
Marty DiBergi: Oh, I see. And most amps go up to ten?
Nigel Tufnel: Exactly.
Marty DiBergi: Does that mean it's louder? Is it any louder?
Nigel Tufnel: Well, it's one louder, isn't it? It's not ten. You see, most blokes, you know, will be playing at ten. You're on ten here, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up, you're on ten on your guitar. Where can you go from there? Where?
Marty DiBergi: I don't know.
Nigel Tufnel: Nowhere. Exactly. What we do is, if we need that extra push over the cliff, you know what we do?
Marty DiBergi: Put it up to eleven.
Nigel Tufnel: Eleven. Exactly. One louder.
Marty DiBergi: Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder?
Nigel Tufnel: [pause] These go to eleven.

--Spinal Tap

It's probably safe to say that no one has ever used Spinal Tap--one of the finest mockumentaries ever made--to help illustrate Bay Area restaurateurs' search for the type of produce that is "one better" than organic ... biodynamic!

For Manresa chef David Kinch, biodynamically grown vegetables are "the cornerstone" of his cuisine, because according to him (and others), they are superior to organic veggies. In a nutshell, biodynamic farming usually involves stirring quartz and manure in water in a vortex and then combining the mixture in the soil:

Biodynamic farming is the brainchild of the late Austrian philosopher/naturalist Rudolf Steiner, who came up with the method in the 1920s as farming was turning to chemicals, depleting the soil as well as the plant. Steiner felt that as a result, human nutrition was suffering. His philosophy is called anthroposophy; longtime adherents of biodynamics also study anthroposophy.

At the heart of Steiner's biodynamics are nine preparations. Most, like the springtime silica solution, involve highly diluted mixtures applied to compost, to the crop or to the land itself at specific times of the year.

"It's the next level,'' Kinch says. While he gratefully acknowledges Alice Waters' legacy, the farm-restaurant connection and the organic revolution, it's nonetheless time to go deeper. "You go to the farmers' market and all the chefs are there. We're buying the same organic leeks and lettuces. We're all doing the same thing. I wanted to do better.''

Of course, one of the other aspects of biodynamic farming is that the restaurateur is much more intimately involved with the farmers. For example, Manresa's Kinch has spent many an early morning and late night whipping up special formulas in the lab/barns of his local farms.

It just goes to show you that someone will always find something that is "one better." Take that, Alice Waters.

Digging biodynamic [SFGate]

"Inspectors" Name Best Outdoor Dining Destinations

AMER_patio.jpgThose crazy Michelin inspectors are at it again.

With summer on the horizon, it's about that time when the patios start opening up for good and the fog is your finest dining companion. According to Michelin Guide director Jean-Luc Naret, "With so many establishments offering outdoor patios, we wanted to make finding a destination that offers both exceptional cuisine, and a pleasurable patio to match, as convenient as possible."

Only four restaurants in San Francisco proper made the cut: Americano, Foreign Cinema, Sociale and Zazie. It's hard to argue with any of the picks, for the combination of a great outdoor area/vista and Michelin-quality food make for a surprisingly rare combination. What restaurants would you add to the short list? Zuni Cafe got the short end of the inspectors' stick once again. Betelnut is a Chronicle-favorite, but "curbside" dining ain't exactly Michelin style. You can't beat the Pacific views at Beach Chalet, though the food leaves something to be desired. Our vote for the biggest snub has to go to The Terrace at the Ritz-Carlton; it's got the al fresco courtyard with starry, posh Mediterranean fare that seduces diners of all shapes and sizes. Thoughts?

Michelin Recommends Top Bay Area Outdoor Dining Destinations for Summer [Michelin, via Gridskipper]

[Photo courtesy: Americano Official Site]

Digesting The Reviews: Non-Restaurants Are So Hot Right Now

cav.jpg
Michael Bauer hit a pair of city favorites this week. On Sunday, he doled out a generous trio of stars for CAV Wine Bar, the restaurant/wine bar right next door to Zuni Cafe. Bauer, initially reluctant to recognize Pamela Busch's California-cuisine-laden wine bar as a legit restaurant (a reluctance that, after one visit, made him "embarrassed [that his] radar hadn't picked up CAV sooner"), eventually finds nothing but praise to heap upon the hidden Hayes Valley gem:
The food is excellent, and the professional, efficient service adds icing to the cake. The staff knows the menu, so on each visit I put the server in charge of pairings. At least 30 wines are offered by the taste or the glass, including more than 50 after-dinner options. The 18 countries represented make a fascinating list, one the staff is so proud of that no outside wines are allowed to be brought in.

Three meals, three winning experiences. I feel remiss in not reviewing it sooner. But now that you know about it, raise a toast to Pamela Busch and her crew.

It seems that everything hit a high note with Bauer, from the "sublime" wine list to the seared squab on a pad of scrapple ("one of the most memorable small plates I've encountered"). Make your reservations now. [SFGate]

The Carnelian Room and more, post-jump!

With his quota for progressive dining experiences full for the week, Bauer then took a trip to one of the city's landmark restaurants, the venerable Carnelian Room . In stark contrast to the CAV though, the Carnelian Room's breathtaking view could not save it from its decidedly uneven fare:

A pink sunset washed over the horizon just as our first courses arrived -- a very good gratin of white asparagus with truffles and flakes of pecorino cheese ($14) and a trio of soups ($11). The cream of artichoke featured loads of tender hearts and leaves, and the lobster bisque was rich and buttery. The ginger-lemon grass consomme with finely diced mince of carrots, however, had a harsh aftertaste that was partly quelled by a generous sprinkling of salt ... By the time the sun went down, we were on to our main courses. Unfortunately, they sounded much better than they tasted, although each had great elements. Pan-sauteed duck breast ($29) was nicely cooked and fanned over spinach and bright bursts of fava beans. The orange balsamic glaze, however, would have been better with a more subtle sweetness. (Can somebody please lock up the balsamic?)
Nonetheless, the Carnelian Room's shortcomings were still enough for a solid 2.5 stars, and the fact of the matter remains that it is still "a special-occasion place, and the breathtaking view ensures a memorable experience." [SFGate]

Elsewhere, Carol Ness marvels at how far the Dogpatch has come with the opening of Piccino, Paul Reidinger gets hostel at Caffe Bella Venezia, L.E. Leone braves yuppies at Toast and some Chowhounds discuss the Iron Chef "Battle Garlic" menu at Incanto.

The Morning Updates: Relatively Recently Opened

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Restaurants that opened within the last year or so.

(415), 415 Presidio Ave (At California St), 415-409-0400

Kookez Cafe, 4123 24th St (Btwn Castro & Diamond St), 415-641-7773

Pescheria, 1708 Church St (At 29th St), 415-647-3200

The Alembic, 1725 Haight St (At Cole St), 415-666-0822

The Front Porch, 65A 29th St (Btwn Mission St & San Jose Ave), 415-695-7800

May 29, 2007

Blog Roundup: Bay Area To Get Pink(er)?

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• Instead of grilling burgers and hot dogs last weekend, some people thought outside the box. [Slice]

• Everything, everyone goes mainstream at some point. [Between Meals]

• "Ultrarare Burmese Fermented Tea Leaves, To Go." What more is there to say? [The Digest]

• Toasters have come a long way. [Slashfood]

• What is this? Pinkberry ... at Stonestown? Maybe? [Curbed SF]

[Photo courtesy: Roadfood]

Making A List: Ethiopian, SF's Forgotten Cuisine

ethi_cr.jpg
One of the more underrepresented cuisines in San Francisco is Ethiopian. Unlike hotbeds like Washington DC and New York City, our options for wat and tibs are a bit slimmer by the Bay.

For those who may not know, Ethiopian cuisine traditionally consists of wat (a thick stew) served on top of a spongey flatbread called injera. The injera is then used to scoop of the tender, spicy pieces of meat and vegetables.

Our five favorite Ethiopian restaurants, after the jump.

5. Club Waziema: It's got that "homey" feel, with its small space and courteous service. Plus, we're a sucker for their "Ethiopian Food Open" neon sign. Oh, and it's open late.

4. Rasselas: Even though it might be considered more of a jazz club, the Ethiopian staples are all there, despite playing second fiddle to the music.

3. Cafe Ethiopia: Quick, easy, cheap and in a fun place in the Mission, it's a great spot to begin a night.

2. Massawa: Though technically Eritrean (we believe), Massawa stands out from some of its competition with the simple added feature that it serves breakfast. And more is always better, right? Right?

1. Axum Cafe: One of the best values in town, the find at Axum may be the traditionally prepared kifto, which is basically raw steak tossed in butter. Delicious.

Weekend Recap: Peet's On The Rise

Here's what you missed this weekend while you continued to hope for whale sashimi ...

• Bay Area favorite Peet's Coffee & Tea finalized plans to move its coffee roasting plant from Emeryville to a new, bigger space in Alameda. The plant will be able to double its output. Look out Starbucks! [SFGate]

• Iron Chef America featured Morimoto squaring off against a bunch of cowboys in Battle Chile Pepper. [Slashfood]

• Who needs foie gras and veal when you have milk-fed chickens? Wait a minute, chickens don't drink milk! [Diner's Journal]

• Lunch 2.0 came to Silicon Valley [SFGate]

The Promo Department: A Very Millennium June

Millennium1_cr.jpg
A veritable bevy of special events are slated to take place at Millennium over the next couple weeks, and with the posh Savoy Hotel eatery being one of the best dining destinations in the city (vegetarian or otherwise), we thought we give you a quick rundown of the special offers.

Thursdays through Saturdays, during the entire month of June: Morel & Spring Mushroom Menu: Spring mushrooms in the summer may sound like a contradiction of sorts, but the $48 four-course prix fixe menu will be titillating palates during the entire month, ingredients willing of course. Look for the special menu here soon.

June 3rd:Aphrodisiac Night: Keeping with tradition, Millennium continues to offer Aphrodisiac Nights on the Sunday of the month closest to the full moon. During the month of June, it's this upcoming weekend. For $45 per person, couples get a five-course meal that includes shared appetizers, a sensuous dessert and "Chinese herbal love potions for two." Also, for $192, you can opt for the overnight package, which includes the special dinner and a room at the Hotel Savoy, where you can talk about the dinner you just enjoyed.

June 12th: Joan Linn Bekins Art & Wine Reception: Photographer Bekins rings in a six-month exhibit with a reception that will feature Storrs wine and passed hors d'oeuvres. Tickets are $25 ($30 at the door) and the Tuesday night event takes place from 5:30pm-7:30pm.

June 13th: Convert A Carnivore: On the second Wednesday of every month, parties of two get 25% off the bill, provided your "friend" enjoys the taste of animals. We're not really sure how they get you to prove you're a carnivore, but we could think of a few fun ways.

Millennium [MenuPages]
Millennium [Official Site]

[Photo courtesy: JVD]

The Morning Updates: Mission Street Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Up and down Mission Street.

Jasmine Tea House, 3253 Mission St (At Valencia St), 415-826-6288

Playa Azul, 3318 Mission St (At 29th St), 415-282-4554

Savanna Jazz, 2937 Mission St (Btwn 25th and 26th St), 415-285-3369

'wichcraft, 866 Mission St (Btwn 4th & 5th St), 866-942-4272

May 25, 2007

Blog Roundup: Holiday Weekend Edition

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In honor of Memorial Day, here's a super-size blog roundup:

• Oh thank heavens: Carlo Petrini and CUESA have commenced peace talks. The world's farms can continue growing potatoes. [Bay Area Bites]

• With all the controversy in New York surrounding the lack of female chefs in the kitchen, it's nice to know that this progressive little city of ours doesn't have the same issues. [Gridskipper SF]

• At Perbacco, Sam went through a lengthy trial and error process to uncover the new Italian restaurant's gems: pasta and salumi. [Becks & Posh]

• If you can't get in to Zuni Cafe, you could do worse than Foreign Cinema. A lot worse. [Bunrabs]

• Nothing says patriotism like a boozey weekend. [SFist]

• Restaurants spend a lot more money on bread than you think. Some spend up to $60,00 a year. [Between Meals]

• Chocolate mousse + basil gelee = deliciousness. [Chez Pim]

• Zagat put together a list of the best outdoor dining destinations in the city. On the list: Isa , The Terrace at the Ritz-Carltone, Zazie and more. [Zagat Buzz]

• The Burritoeater speaks! [SFist]

• The Harry Potter craze has now reached the culinary world. [The Grinder]

• Online quizzes are always fun, even ones about the history of the hamburger. [A Hamburger Today]

• "Hey let's make a perfume that smells like a food item" ... "Great idea, what were you thinking along the lines of? Cherries? Truffles?" ... "No--blue cheese!" [An Obsession With Food]

[Photo courtesy: Burritoeater]

Meanwhile ...

MP: Boston fantasized all week about getting out of Beantown, but still managed to satiate those cravings for baked Alaska, spinach dip and ceviche.

MP: Chicago live-blogged the Tribune's first-ever live web video chat and used exclamation points liberally to denote the excitement.

MP: Philly had a nice week too. They laughed over tamago Big Macs, cried over water ices and celebrated the local folks who hit the big-time.

The Morning Updates: Progressive Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Modern interpretations on classics.

Anzu, 222 Mason St (At O'Farrell St), 415-394-1100

Bacar, 448 Brannan St (Btwn 3rd & 4th St), 415-904-4100

Bistro 1689, 1689 Church St (Btwn Valley & 29th St), 415-550-8298

Mochica, 937 Harrison St (Btwn 5th & 6th St), 415-278-0480

Zoya, 465 Grove St (Btwn Gough & Octavia St), 415-626-9692

May 24, 2007

The Promo Department: Music Edition

A very musical weekend lies on the horizon. Here's a small, small sampling:

• It's Karnaval time at Bissap Baobab , which means bossa nova band Crying High will be playing from 3pm-5pm on Saturday, followed by a cornucopia gypsy bands and West African troupes.

• At Cafe Claude's Jazz Night, Marcus Shelby performs tonight, followed by a full weekend of jazzy fun.

• Because San Francisco is honky-tonk central, enjoy an evening of bluegrass fun with Jennie and Chuck's Country Round Up at Atlas Cafe.

Hotel Utah Saloon's Hellraiser Happy Hour is tonight, followed by tomorrow night's New Arrivals CD Release Show ($12). Even money on which one is more frightening.

• And of course, if you haven't heard, it's San Francisco Carnaval 2007 at Harrison Street between 16th & 24th.

Wal-Mart Goes Green ... Mostly

Walmart_exterior_cr.jpg
At the recent Cooking for Solutions conference, executives from Whole Foods, Bon Appetit and Wal-Mart appeared on stage together to reaffirm the importance of organic and sustainable food.

Wait, Wal-Mart?

Little did you know, Wal-Mart has become one of the world's greenest companies. Among the steps taken by the world's biggest retailer are new regulations regarding their shrimp imports:

The company is requiring shrimp farms that have been ravaging the coast of Thailand to change their aquaculture practices or lose the retailer's business. Under the company's new rules, the shrimp farms must be certified by Global Aquaculture Alliance or Aquaculture Certification Council as being farmed in environmentally sound ways, he said.

It's no hollow gesture -- Wal-Mart sells more than 50 million pounds of shrimp a year (most of it from Thailand), which is about 40 percent of all the seafood it handles, Redmond said.

Wal-Mart is also turning more toward wild, domestic shrimp, even though it's more expensive, he said. The company has stopped selling some overfished species entirely, although he didn't name them.

However, following in Whole Foods' footsteps, Wal-Mart will reintroduce the "hugely overfished" Chilean sea bass. Even though both markets buy their (quickly vanishing) Chilean sea bass from the same sustainable fishery in the south Atlantic, we still have to wonder: why?

Oh, and Wal-Mart still has that whole other mess.

Wal-Mart to push sustainable shrimp [SFGate]
Brokaw explores the vanishing Chilean sea bass [MSNBC]

Closings: Axes All Around

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With the help of our favorite informant, let's take a look at the failures around town:

The unfortunately-named Spanish Fly could not sustain its weekend surges into its paltry weeknight crowds. The bright side is that The City has one or two other wine bars. Besides, the Chowhounds thought it was pretty subpar; and by "subpar" they mean "not good at all" and "a bummer."

This isn't exactly breaking news, but MacArthur Park succumbed to the skyrocketing rents in its former space on Jackson Street; again, the closing could have been predicted by negative Chowhound reports.

Finally, we've got some pity for the people behind Avenue G. After shuttering their Clement Street location, they made a valiant effort to make their eclectic menu work in North Beach. Yeah, didn't work out so well. Now where will you go for Dungeness crab pot pie?

And we've got our eyes on Senses, California Street Delicatessen & Cafe and (415) ...

Remembering Fallen Soldiers With A Picnic

san-beach-francisco.jpgIn case you didn't notice, yesterday's Chronicle Food Section was absolutely teeming with picnic ... stuff.

Here's our attempt at a synopsis of the picks for Memorial Day picnic destinations:

Angel Island: "Barbecued oysters and Anchor Steam beer on tap at the Cove Cantina, a new outdoor bar with a palm-thatch roof and view of the marina and Marin's bayfront beyond."

The Marina: "On sun-drenched days, the streets and sidewalks that run along the Marina Green and Chrissy Field continuously pulse with in-line skaters, joggers, cyclists and those simply out for a casual stroll. Between that and the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and the bay, it's hard to say what's more entertaining -- the views or the people-watching." MenuPages picks for dining in the area: Greens Restaurant, Mel's Drive-In , Mezes, Mi Lindo Peru.

Mission Dolores Park: "But even without special events, I love getting together with friends for an impromptu picnic. I live a few blocks from the park, and on my way, I pick up food at Bi-Rite Market, which is usually packed with other folks doing the same thing." MenuPages picks for dining in the area: Taqueria El Castillito, Tangerine, Dolores Park Cafe.

Half Moon Bay: "The salt air. The waves. Feeling away from it all. And if it's sunny, you'll wonder why it's not called paradise."

Tomales Bay: "Tomales Bay State Park is home to four secluded public beaches, all easy places to land. Heart's Desire Beach, about 2 miles (an hourlong paddle) from Inverness, is the most popular, and has picnic tables, restrooms and outdoor showers."

The Morning Updates: Chinese Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Neighborhood Chinese.

Andy's, 1358 9th Ave (Btwn Irving and Judah St), 415-661-1803

Mayflower Seafood, 6255 Geary Blvd (At 27th Ave), 415-387-8338

R & G Lounge, 631 Kearny St (At Commercial St), 415-982-7877

South Sea Seafood Village, 1420 Irving St (At 15th Ave), 415-665-8210

Tsing Tao, 3107 Clement St (At 32nd Ave), 415-387-2344

May 23, 2007

Blog Roundup: John Was A Deep Dish

• A new study says that more than 10 cups of green tea a day might be harmful. Is this like that "betcha can't drink a gallon of milk!" challenge? [Megnut]

• Marco Pierre White, en fuego. [Gawker]

• Nice restaurants are totally ruining the world. [The Grinder]

• Ever wonder how many times a critic usually goes to a restaurant before reviewing it? [Between Meals]

• Ever wonder if that mandatory gratuity for a large group is actually mandatory? [Between Meals]

• If the Beatles turned into pizzas, they would look like this. [Slice]

Carlo Petrini V. Ferry Plaza Farmers, Round Three

With all the recent ado over the Petrini-CUESA feud, it seems that some of our fellow witty, technology-savvy San Franciscans decided to have some fun with the whole situation. We, of course, approve ... and would pay good money for this "culinary clout." Organic zucchinis would abound.

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Slow Food Versus The Farmers And You And Me, Part 3 [Rancho Gordo, via Tablehopper]
Earlier: Carlo Petrini V. Ferry Plaza Farmers, Round Two: The Curious Case Of The Lost Letter [MenuBlog]
Earlier: Carlo Petrini V. Ferry Plaza Farmers, Round One [MenuBlog]

Digesting The Reviews: Salt House, A Noisy Newbie

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This week, SF Weekly's Meredith Brody braved the "noisy throng" at Salt House, the new(ish) restaurant on Mission and First. From the get-go, the influence of Town Hall (its sister restaurant) is evident, not to mention the "New Americanism" of the modern eatery:
Entering the place brings you right into the 21st century: This is urbane up-to-the-minute city dining, wittily inserted in an industrial space that once held a printing press (ah, times gone by). Its exposed brick, massive metal support beams, and wood floors still bearing evidence of the past now are complemented by wood tables, a long bar, and an entirely open kitchen. From that busy kitchen issues forth the kind of American cooking known as new, which means that on its menu you'll see charmoula along with chickpeas (part of the house-made merguez sausage appetizer), Serrano ham adorning the crispy-shrimp starter, with spicy green beans and almonds, and Medjool dates and kumquats adorning the duo of foie gras. Not quite your grandmother's kitchen.
Unfortunately, the "painfully loud" atmosphere and "slender plank" communal dining made the experience less than stellar. Throw in tough reservations and the bar crowd bulging into the tables--not to mention some slightly disappointing fare ("a bit stingy" foie gras and "sadly overcooked" English peas)--and Salt House isn't exactly shooting to the top of our to-do lists. [SF Weekly]

The rest of the reviews, post jump.

Amanda Gold hits another Marin restaurant as she checks out El Paseo's upscale yet nontraditional French menu, Paul Reidinger of the Guardian waxes poetic at Quixote's Mexican Grill, L.E. Leone discovers cheap eats at a Cambodian joint in Oakland Chinatown called Phnom Penh, The Tablehopper hops on over to Tajine and the Chowhounds discuss the famous Cheese Board.

[Photo courtesy: Flickr ]

The Morning Updates: Quintessential SF

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: San Francisco classics.

Citizen Cake, 399 Grove St (At Gough St), 415-861-2228

John's Grill, 63 Ellis St (Btwn Stockton & Powell St), 415-986-0069

PPQ Dungeness Island, 2332 Clement St (Btwn 24th & 25th Ave), 415-386-8266

Scoma's, Pier 47 (At Jones & Jefferson St), 800-644-5852

The Slanted Door, 1 Ferry Building (At The Embarcadero), 415-861-8032

May 22, 2007

Clickery: Beverages Everywhere!

In case you didn't get enough to drink during Cocktail Week 2007 ...

• The good folks behind Yield Wine Bar, Celine Guillou and Chris Tavelli, reveal the secrets behind San Francisco's one and only "green" wine bar. [Into Wine]

• In an excellent interview with Wine Spectator, Douglas Keane (of Cyrus fame) reveals that at one point, he just decided to "put the Budweiser down and figure out what wine tastes like." Until Michelin grants two stars to a restaurant with a Budweiser pairing, we'd say Keane made the right decision. Probably. [Wine Spectator Online]

• Actually, after reading this interview with a "water connoisseur," maybe Keane should have figured out what water tastes like. In case you were wondering, you should pair red meat with "a high mineral content water" so you can "enjoy the substance of the water and the way it stands up to the dish." Wow. Just ... wow. We're talking about water, not wine, right? Jesus just got confused. [SFist]

• The Chicago Tribune released a report that says "more than 50 companies are pushing tea or the equipment needed to make tea" at the NRA show this week, so maybe tea is the new water which is the new wine. [Chicago Tribune]

• Milk is now more expensive than gasoline. No word on whether the government will invade Wisconsin to look for weapons of mass destruction. [Business Week]

Openings: Julius' Castle, Back In Business

JuliusCastle2.jpgLook for one of the city's landmark restaurants to be back in business sometime this week. Julius' Castle has been closed for renovations since late August, but according to the restaurant itself (and ZagatBuzz) the North Beach mainstay will reopen tomorrow (May 23rd) at 5pm.

Julius' Castle, originally opened in 1922, will continue to serve Italian-French classics flanked by one of the best--if not the best--panoramic views in the city. Scott Hammonds is the executive chef and will concentrate on old-school dishes like lobster Thermidor and coquilles Saint-Jacques. Send preliminary reports our way if you have them.

Reopening This Week: Julius' Castle [ZagatBuzz]
Julius' Castle [MenuPages]
Julius' Castle [Official Site]

The Top 10 Food Trends Of 2007?

top10.jpgWith a little help from our Windy City brethren, we couldn't help but notice that Food Technology--a print magazine that "provides news and analysis of the development, use, quality, safety, and regulation of food sources, products, and processes"--released a list of the Top 10 Food Trends of 2007. At the top of the list is "Dining In," which has resulted from "economic pressures" that make diners less likely to eat in restaurants. The entire Top 10 is as follows:

1. Dining In: Economic pressures are among the factors causing Americans to eat and cook more dishes at home.
2. Food Talk: Word-of-mouth has become a key factor in the success of new food products. Celebrity chefs are encouraging more adventuresome cooking.
3. Form & Function: Reducing the number of steps in food preparation is a surefire way to increase product sales.
4. Sense Appeal: There's a new trend toward texture, crispness, and crunch.
5. Kidding Around: The number of young children is growing; baby foods are even taking on gourmet cache.
6. Doing Without: Avoidance behavior is accelerating, and products without undesirable ingredients are viewed favorably.
7. Local Motions: Fresh is the most desired attribute, but foods marketed as local, seasonal, hand-made, natural, and similar, are increasing.
8. Seriously Healthy: Shoppers' desire to reduce the risk of developing health conditions has a lot of influence on food purchasing decisions.
9. Next-Generation Beverages: Drinks set the pace in U.S. sales and innovation.
10. Snacking & Sharing: Light meals, after-school socializing, and other influences make snacks and mini-meals a hot opportunity for restaurants.
Some quick thoughts ... we're intrigued by Sense Appeal (never thought about it), Next-Generation Beverages (what will they come up with next?) and Food Talk (guilty).

Didn't Local Motions start to shine a couple years ago in most major areas? Or is the food industry just continuing to reach new heights in the slow food arena?

Is it just us, or could numbers five through eight have been combined into one trend called "Healthier, Better Ingredients"?

Top 10 Food Trends Mirror Americans' Variety [IFT]

Carlo Petrini V. Ferry Plaza Farmers, Round Two: The Curious Case Of The Lost Letter

the-ferry-building_cr.jpg
"Contradictions do not exist. Whenever you think you are facing a contradiction, check your premises. You will find that one of them is wrong." --Ayn Rand, Atlas Shrugged

Last Friday, we took a look at the developing feud between the CUESA farmers at the Ferry Plaza and Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini. The feud was originally sparked by Petrini's unflattering published remarks about the farmers market's prices and was capped off by a retracted invitation and a fiery meeting. At first glance, it appeared to be a confusing contradiction: why would a noted farmer-lover like Petrini denigrate the very types of farmers he'd always supported?

Yesterday, an astute commenter tipped us that Petrini wrote--and sent--an explanatory and apologetic letter to CUESA before the infamous sit-down meeting that proved to be unfortunately hostile. Interestingly enough, CUESA did not share Petrini's letter with the farmers prior to the meeting. According to our tipster, it is still unknown whether CUESA has done so.

So, here is Petrini's complete letter to CUESA, for everyone's benefit:

Dear CUESA,

I was quite surprised to learn in the past few days about some negative
reactions to a passage called *Green California* in my
just-published book, Slow Food Nation, and wanted to take a moment to
try to explain my intentions and clarify what I believe happened.

First of all, I want to apologize for any offense caused by this
passage, whether to your organization or the many farmers who are your
members and collaborators. It was absolutely not my intention to
denigrate or attack the farmers of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market - or
of any farmers market, for that matter. I hope that you will consider
the rest of my book, not to mention the range of Slow Food projects I
have founded over the past twenty years, a testament to the deep
admiration I feel for the farmers who grow sustainably and depend on the
direct market economies of farmers markets, both in the United States
and around the world. The network of farmers and food producers that we
brought together at Terra Madre has only helped to reinforce how
strongly I believe in the importance of farmers as defenders of the
earth and stewards of our future.

In part, I believe that the translation of this passage was,
unfortunately, not as accurate as it should have been, and that the
misinterpretation of certain phrases and the omission of a few key words
resulted in a tone that differs significantly from the spirit of what I
wrote in Italian. In fact, my original words were meant to demonstrate
the positive impression I had of the two farmers with whom I spoke,
based on their apparent success in making farming a viable livelihood
for themselves.

I have also come to realize that this specific passage may be
vulnerable to misunderstandings when judged outside of the context of
the chapter in which it resides, not to mention the book in its
entirety. For this I can only apologize for the imperfections of my own
writing, in my attempt to explore some of the contradictions that exist
within the highly relative concept of sustainability.

The loss of biodiversity in our food supply; the rights of migrant farm
workers; the elitism argument against organic and artisanal foods; not
to mention the twin epidemics of obesity and hunger that plague our
planet, are all contradictions which we need to acknowledge and explore
in a way that respects multiple cultures and points of view.

I believe strongly that the only way in which we can overcome these
contradictions is to create a dialogue where we face these issues with
an open mind and a generous heart, and I hope that with this in mind, we
can come to the table together to recognize our common values and chart
a path forward that unites our work in the pursuit of food that is good,
clean and fair.

In friendship/Sincerely/With respect,

Carlo Petrini
President
Slow Food International

Earlier: Carlo Petrini V. Ferry Plaza Farmers, Round One [MenuBlog]

Special thanks to our tipster, MFKsWolf.

The Morning Updates: Healthy Tuesday Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Restaurants that feature salads, vegetarian fare, health food and/or the like.

California Crisp, 3251 20th Ave (At Stonestown Galleria), 415-564-4254

Herbivore, 531 Divisadero St (Btwn Hayes & Fell St), 415-885-7133

Herbivore, 983 Valencia St (Btwn 20th & 21st St), 415-826-5657

Lettus Cafe Organic, 3352 Steiner St (At Chestnut St), 415-931-2777

Mixt Greens, 120 Sansome St (At Pine St), 415-433-6498

May 21, 2007

Blog Roundup: Veal, Burgers And Duck Fries=Good, Vegans=Bad

• Veganism ... probably not so great in the long run. [Accidental Hedonist]

• And to prove that point, the Dalai Lama developed hepatitis after undertaking strict vegetarianism during the 60s. He now apparently loves veal. This just goes to show you that not all Buddhists are vegetarians. [The Grinder]

• Tired of the same old burgers on Memorial Day? Here are recipes for ten creative burgers, including lentil-almond burgers and a wasabi salmon burger. [Slashfood]

• On his blog, Chris Cosentino explains that duck fries are not french fries cooked in duck fat. They are duck testicles. Get it right, people. [Offal Good]

• Gridskipper put together a little list of the "culinary highlights" of The Bay. On the list: Anchor Steam, The Slanted Door. Not on the list: Chez Panisse, The Cheeseboard Collective. [Gridskipper SF]

• Michael Bauer's going on a diet. Um, what? [Between Meals]

Down Goes Heinz! Down Goes Heinz!

ketchup.jpg
Now, it wasn't exactly Frazier-Foreman, but this weekend's stunning results from the latest Taster's Choice evaluations might make you reconsider the ketchup bottle sitting in your refridgerator door. John Kerry-favorite Heinz has long been America's ketchup of choice; however, a blind taste test of tomato-based condiments produced some shocking results:
And the panel's favorite burger condiment, after a blind tasting, was a humble store brand, Ralphs($1.69 for 20 ounces), sold by the Cala-Bell-Kroger-Ralphs supermarket chain ... But when it comes to the ketchup itself, the panelists found it has "good tomato flavor" that's "rich and deep" with a "good balance of acidity and sweetness." Its texture was very thick and smooth, too much so for one taster, who called it "almost gelatinous."
Interestingly enough, Ralphs ketchup--like most private label products--is made by an unidentified, mysterious manufacturer, so the producer of the best ketchup in the country is currently unknown.

Heinz finished a distant fifth (out of seven competing ketchups). The tasters described it as having a "nice thick texture" but the taste--described as "out of balance" and "bland"--did not receive high marks.

Full results after the jump.

Perfect score = 100

1. Ralphs 75

2. Del Monte 71

3. Hunt's 69

4. Safeway 62

5. Heinz 59

6. Whole Foods 365 42

7. Western Family 39

Ralphs ketchup licks top-selling Heinz [SFGate]

Clip Of The Day: The Wonders Of The Bull

We've already seen what happens to a comedian and a Polish woman during their respective Chinatown (ad)ventures; now, via National Geographic, we can discover what happens to one of Asia's finest chefs in an exotic Taiwanese market. The results are unforgettably educational:


It's times like these where we remember that the deep traditions and valuations of real Chinese cuisine have been largely overshadowed in America by our versions of sesame chicken and eggrolls. Wouldn't it be fun if one of the next big trends in America was real Chinese food, bull parts included?

Rare Foods: Bull Parts [YouTube]

Weekend Recap: All That (Chinese) Jazz

BuenaVistaCafe.jpgHere's what you missed this weekend ...
• A "markedly" improved Shanghai 1930 was the site of Michael Bauer's weekly weekend review, and the jazzy Chinese restaurant earned itself three bright shiny stars. [SFGate]

• Tuna in a can is the new seared tuna. [SFGate]

• It's okra season in the Bay, which we be a bigger deal if there were more Ethiopian and/or soul food restaurants in the area. For now, Town Hall and its southern-slanted menu might be your best bet to discover the wonders of the plant that is technically in the cotton family. [SFGate]

• Al pastor tacos made on the vertical spit are more common than you might think. [Chowhound]

• The FDA has ruled that melamine-tainted poultry and fish are OK(ish) to eat, but ferret food was ruled to be dangerous. Really. [CNN]

• Haute Greek is the newest restaurant trend in New York, so look for fancy new Greek places in Hayes Valley sometime in early 2008. [NY Post]

[Photo courtesy: About]

The Morning Updates: Bauer Edition

Here at MenuPages, we are constantly updating our vast menu database. Every morning, we'll highlight five or so menu updates to bring you the latest in San Francisco culinary upheaval.

Today's updates: Restaurants in Michael Bauer's Top 100.

Firefly, 4288 24th St (Btwn Diamond & Douglass St), 415-821-7652

Fleur De Lys, 777 Sutter St ( Btwn Jones & Taylor St), 415-673-7779

Foreign Cinema, 2534 Mission St (Btwn 21st & 22nd St), 415-648-7600

Jardiniere, 300 Grove St (At Franklin St), 415-861-5555

May 18, 2007

Meanwhile ...

Because we know you like discovering new things, here's what happened this week around the Menuniverse ...

MP: Boston made punny headlines while blowing the lid off some free food promotions.

MP: Chicago revealed