« The Morning Updates: Sunset Edition | Main | Digesting The Reviews: Magnolia's Deuce, More Bi-Rite Love »

California Impresses At International Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition

olive.jpg
You probably missed it, but about a month ago, the International Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition took place in Los Angeles. For some reason, the Chronicle didn't really say much about until today's article from the always-excellent Olivia Wu. The competition included 22 world-class judges, 400 entrees and a host of gold medals, as the event has quickly evolved into the world's foremost gathering of top notch olive oils. This year, California oils represented the domestic crop quite well. In the foreign category (domestic and foreign are separated in the LA fair), Italy won 15 golds, edging Spain's 11 and New Zealand's 8.

The most interesting part of Wu's article may be her descriptions of the various taste techniques employed by the judges:

Watching one panel at work, I was struck by the sounds of tasting. Some judges aerated the olive oils with many short, staccato intakes of breath before swallowing. Others drew in one long, sustained slurp. Quite frequently a cough followed the inhalation, a normal sign of the pungency striking the back of the throat.

Pungency and bitterness are positive attributes in olive oil, but they must be within the bounds of the class -- delicate, medium or robust -- and of the varietal.

As in any subjective competition involving international counterparts, judges often disagreed on what constitutes a good performance. New World and Old World judges clashed several times on the characteristic of oils. For example, the Spaniards favor for "finesse," while Americans prefer less subtle, outright flavors. Nonetheless, the competition's outcome was clear: American olive oil is legit.

U.S. olive oil coming into its own [SFGate]

Post a comment

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)

Posts by 7North Beach/Telegraph Hill