Digesting The Reviews: Goood Food, Baaad Name
While Michael Bauer checked out Pleasant Hill's Left Bank, Amanda Gold was on the San Francisco beat at Good Frikin' Chicken. Sitting on the southern end of the Mission, straddling the cusps of Bernal Heights, Goood Frikin' Chicken actually does have the goods to live up to its name:
The draw is the food. GFC specializes in two preparations of chicken, and trying to choose the better bird is akin to naming a favorite child - each has its own very distinct characteristics. They're available half or whole, a la carte or as part of a meal.In addition to the eponymous star attraction, GFC's appetizers also shine, particularly the various greens and the fried cheese. Since the slightly more formal dining room opened in 2005, it seems that GFC has only improved on its status as one of the best cheap eats destinations in the area. In Gold's eyes at least, it's worth a pair of Chronicle stars. [SFGate]The open flame ($7.45-$17.25) is marinated in a za'atar (a blend of thyme, sesame seeds and sumac) and cooked over a hot grill until slightly charred and crisp. The herbs are pocketed under the skin, and take on smoky notes from the cooking.
Rotisserie chicken ($7.45-$17.25) is milder, boasting Mediterranean flavors of garlic, herbs and lemon. On separate visits, I found the rotisserie to be juicier, though flavors on the open-flame version are more vibrant.
In the rest of Reviewville, Meredith Brody takes her turn at Farina, the flashy new Italian joint up the street from Delfina, and in the process of a glowing review for the up-and-down newcomer, she shares one of the most delightful lines of any reviewer in recent memory: "I had the entirely agreeable sensation of being in a hot restaurant whose hotness was not just the function of its newness." Meanwhile, Bauer slaps a 1.5-star review on the aforementioned Left Bank, citing sloppy preparation (among other problems) in a scene-centric environment; Paul Reidinger forges past the Cow Hollow stigma and enjoys Palmetto; and Hounds certainly don't like Sushi Zone.
