« January 2008 | Main | March 2008 »

February 29, 2008

The Chronicle Over Cocktails

Sign_Cocktail.jpeg

As we leave you this Friday evening, we bid you good weekend. Please enjoy the San Francisco Chronicle's wine section over a good, stiff drink. You've earned it.

Our lead story is a pairing challenge for six local sommeliers and wine directors. Can they find the right accompaniment for two tricky dishes? [Search for a perfect match]

Meanwhile Jim Clarke parses some of the debate over adding sugars and spices to wines. [Is Europe too sweet on chaptalization?]

Gary Regan goes for a two-fer of cocktail recommendations, but settles on a Midnight Smash. [The Cocktailian]

And, finally, the Cheese Course wakes up in time for breakfast [Even without a beer, Breakfast Cheese is an eye-opener]

Drink Up, San Francisco

cocktails.jpg

Well, it's Friday afternoon, which means its time to start thinking about happy hour. You know Fridays get a little boozy around the MPSF blog, and we'd like you to get in on the action. Here are some suggestions for drinky things to do tonight and beyond:

Noisepop, that totally cool music festival that you forgot to get tickets to and now is mostly sold out, is going on right now and tonight they are hosting two happy hours, one at 5 p.m. at Noisepop headquarters (Thee Parkside) from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. and one at the Diesel store from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. There's another one at Diesel, same time, on Saturday.

Thanks to Myopenbar.com for the tip: Saturday at Artists Television Access there will be a fundraiser for Creative Commons. For $6 you can get in, mingle, catch a film and drink lots of champagne.

Don't forget, Sparky's has cheap beer (like $1.50 or something) during happy hour, which lasts something like 5-10 p.m. They serve things like Pyramid and Sierra Nevada, so it's a good deal.

Similarly, Rudy's Can't Fail Cafe in Emeryville sells $1 beers all from 9 p.m. to closing time at 1 a.m. But it's in Emeryville.

Finally, for oenophiles, Bacar may be thought of as somewhere between Mecca and Nirvana. If that's you, you should probably get tickets early for a "sommelier supper" with wine director Mickey Clevenger March 16. You get dinner and a tasting of more than 20 wines.

Taco Truck Murder

So sad: This news from the San Francisco Chronicle about a man getting shot to death in Oakland while on a late-night taco run. According to the article, this is at least the second taco truck slaying in Oakland this year. Yikes. Is nothing sacred?

Oakland man slain on late-night run to taco truck [SF Chronicle]

Hip Sips

Are you in the mood for some wine events that are more Juno than Sideways? More Matt Gonzales than Gavin Newsom? More Alcademics than Obsession With Food?

Well, get a load of this list of hip wine events. Finally, you can be sure that if you gag, it will be because of a purely offensive-tasting wine and not the offensively cut jeans wrapping the legs of the over-30 set milling about you. Nothing like being a wine snob and a fashion snob!

Hip Tastes Events [Main Site]

Update: Nutrition Facts

big mac sculpture.jpg

Remember that ordinance Supervisor Tom Ammiano proposed a few weeks ago, requiring restaurant chains to list nutrition information on their menus? Well, it's on the way to becoming law after it was approved in committee yesterday.

The legislation is expected to pass the Board of Supervisors and get the mayor's signature. Of course the Golden Gate Restaurant Association hates it, but not with the vitriol you'd expect. From the Chron:

"We want flexibility and uniformity," said Lara Diaz Dunbar, a senior vice president for the California Restaurant Association. "If San Francisco does one thing and San Mateo does another, that would be burdensome for business."

Interestingly, local blogger Camper English, of Alcademics, also expressed distaste for the legislation, even though he's normally for these kinds of things:
Requiring chains to have the information available on request? I think I'm okay with that. But when hotel bars have to list cocktail calories on their drink menus I have a feeling I'll opt to imbibe in other locations where I can get a drink without a garnish of guilt.

Anyway at the rate this legislation is going, expect to see those nutrition facts popping up on the soon-to-be-novel-sized menus of chain restaurants citywide.

S.F. expected pass law on nutrition disclosure [SF Chronicle]
Caloric Cocktails [Alcademics]

February 28, 2008

Food Fights

A Menupages co-conspirator sent the following video our way. He doesn't seem to be interested in posting it, so we stole it. This has very little (in fact, nothing) to do with San Francisco, but it is weird, funny and, for as ridiculous as it is, rather poignant. [via Boingboing]

BBtv: History of war through food, Dog impersonates boozy Orson Welles. [Boingboing]

Caviar For The Masses

caviar egg.jpg

Caviar is one of those foods that has been around for a long time because the people that like it really, really love it. Chances are, however, that it's not a staple in your diet. There's even a chance you've never tasted it. That has to stop. It's true that many caviar services cost as much as an entire meal and give you, oh, say, one ounce or so of food. But there are some bargains in this city for those who want to see what all the fuss is about.

To get a taste of the straight stuff or to try a dish that features caviar heavily, your best bet is to head to Tsar Nicoulai Caviar Cafe in the Ferry Building. There, you can get a large assortment of dishes that feature fish eggs or just buy some in a jar at a pretty wide range of prices.

Probably the single cheapest serving of caviar in the city is the Russian tea egg with caviar for $6 at the Samovar Tea Lounge

Shanghai 1930 has a seafood custard appetizer that comes with a "dollop" of Ostera caviar. That's probably not nearly as much as you'd get at, say, Myth, but then the whole dish only costs $12. And if you don't like the caviar, then you can scrape it off and enjoy your eggshell full of "seafood essence" a la carte.

The Grand Cafe features a "Caviar et Salmon Tartine," which would likely do as lunch and goes for $14.

Soluna doesn't have a caviar service, per se, but there are two options in its $31.95 prix fixe menu that include it: "Mini caviar shooters" and, for $3 extra, a dish of caviar and scallops. The shooters are available a la carte for $15.

So there you go, a quintet of options to ease you into the habit. And if you like it, it may just happen that the next time you see a caviar service for $70, that won't seem like such a bad deal.

Tablehopper Turns Two

marcia_espresso.jpg

We'd like to extend a belated congratulations to the Tablehopper. Last week, Marcia Gagliardi's pet publication turned two years old and on Tuesday it clocked 100 weekly newsletters. Wait, shouldn't that be 104 newsletters? Gagliardi explains:

I know, there should be 104, but a few interruptions came up over these past two years, like Coachella and Burning Man.
Well, at least she's up to something wholesome. Meanwhile, four local watering holes are creating whiskey drinks in her honor. There's even a contest for those who collect photos of themselves drinking all four. Hit up The Alembic, Absinthe , Cantina and Presidio Social Club, then send her an e-mail.

So congratulations, Marcia. We look forward to two more years and at least 100 more issues filled with pithy restaurant news and reviews, juicy gossip and plenty of text-speak. JK! LOL!

Tablehopper [Official Site]
The Alembic [MenuPages]
The Alembic [Official Site]
Absinthe [MenuPages]
Absinthe [Official Site]
Cantina [MenuPages]
Cantina [Official Site]
Presidio Social Club [MenuPages]
Presidio Social Club [Official Site]

SoMa's Latest: Luce

luce inside.jpg

Another big-time opening in SoMa today: Following on the heels of Orson and the newly re-worked Fifth Floor, the new tag team of Luce and Bar888 opens today in the Intercontinental Hotel at Fifth and Howard streets.

The menu features Italian/Californian fusion, with two house specialties--a Mediterranean sea bass and an aged cote du boeuf--that serve two and must be ordered 24 hours in advance. There's also a four-course vegetable tasting menu and a six-course version that includes seafood and beef.

Eater SF got a sneak peak inside the design-heavy space, which you can check out on their site.
Also have a look at the menu on Thrillist and, soon, here.

Intercontintental Hotels [Official Site]
Eater Inside Sneak Peek: Luce and Bar888 [Eater SF]
Get With The Menu [Thrillist]
Fifth Floor [MenuPages]
Fifth Floor [Official Site]
Orson [MenuPages]
Orson [Official Site]


The Weeklies Over Coffee

Coffee_Mug.jpg

Well, it's good to be back. An unfortunate bout of "actual work" kept us away from the blog for much of yesterday, so here is your better-late-than-never edition of the Weeklies Over Coffee.

In the San Francisco Bay Guardian:

Paul Reidinger gets really stoked on lentils [From Umbria, with brio]

Ella Lawrence takes a look at late lunch options around town [Dining in the off-hours

Reidinger also likes Breezy's, but not quite as much as he likes those lentils [A performance enhancement]

And LE Leone is all about Alameda's Calafia Taqueria this week [Cheap Eats]

Meanwhile, at the SF Weekly:

Meredith Brody is less than impressed with P'tit Laurant. She even slams the French overall! [You Can Have Paris]

Also, as a web bonus, we get news that Trader Vic's is having a massive warehouse sale of all things Tiki. [The Snitch: Trader Vic's Mysterious Warehouse Sale]

February 27, 2008

The Blender

Here's our weekly re-publish of the San Francisco Bay Guardian's Blender. Check back this afternoon for the Weeklies Over Coffee.

(1) Steak au poivre, La Bateau Ivre, Berk.

(2) Pineapple and jalapeno pizza, Pizza Company, Oxnard

(3) Small drip coffee, Blue Bottle Kiosk, SF

(4) Gnocchi with Dungeness crab, Conduit, SF

(5) Guayaquil guava paste, mimolette cheese, and Ak-Mak crackers

The Blender [SFBG]

The Chronicle Over Cocktails: Extra

Coffee_Mug.jpg

This is a sad installment of this particular feature. In addition to our normal food section roundup, we bring you the story of Tommy Toy, one of the legends of the city's restaurant scene. According to the story in today's Chronicle, Toy worked his way up from a busboy at the Imperial Palace, becoming manager and then co-owner there before opening his own place, Tommy Toy's Cuisine Chinoise. His patrons included all sorts of local notables, from Dianne Feinstein and Willie Brown to Francis Ford Coppola and Clint Eastwood. [Tommy Toy - Chinatown restaurateur dies at 72]

Now, on to the food section:

The lead story takes us through the delicious sounding Day of the Pig, a weekend-long celebration focused on slaughtering, butchering, cooking, curing and just generally getting up in a pig. [Going whole hog]

Amanda Berne seems to have had an exceptionally good dish of beans while moving recently. [Beans make the perfect housewarming dish]

Piperade chef Gerald Hirigoyen feeds finicky children at home. [Chef's Night In]

A whole big chef shuffle is taking place downtown [Inside Scoop]

And Michael Bauer totally loves Sausalito's Poggio. [Simple ingredients shine in hands of Poggio chef]

February 26, 2008

Celebrity Crab Crack

crabsub.jpg

Who do you think can crack more crab: Fire Chief Joanne Hayes White, 49ers linebacker Manny Lawson or Miss Chinese Chamber Of Commerce Tiffany Tam?

You may fear that the world will never know, but your fears are unfounded. This Saturday, those three local celebrities, plus a host more will join in battle to see who can crack and clean the most local Dungeness. Niners quarterback Alex Smith, kicker Joe Nedney, Sir Francis Drake doorman Tom Sweeney and a contingent of 49ers cheerleaders are scheduled to participate.

The 12:30 p.m. competition is part of the Union Square Association's Celebrity Crab Festival, a promo event to benefit the 49ers Foundation. Also on the agenda: a noon cracking and cleaning demonstration and plenty of food and wine tasting ($5 per ticket).

Here are the participating chefs and restaurants:

Mike Koenig, Scala's Bistro
Keira Moritz, Puccini & Pinetti
Robert Helstrom, Kuleto's
Robert Petzold, Ponzu
Sharon Nahm, E & O Trading Co
Fernando Padilla, Master Baker, Boudin Bakery
James Chan, Bistro Boudin">Bistro Boudin
Thomas Rimpel, The Oak Room at the Westin St. Francis
Richard Slusarz, Grandviews at the Grand Hyatt
Darren Lacy, Luques at the Chancellor Hotel
Mauro Pando, Grand Cafe

Union Square Association [Main Site]

Starbucks

cast_starbuck.jpg
[Above: Not a slave to caffeine or Cylons]

Don't forget, readers: This afternoon is the three-hour national nightmare of a near-total Starbucks blackout. Get your afternoon/afte-work lattes before 5:30 p.m., folks or you'll be forced to go to one of the other hundreds of cafes in San Francisco until 8:30 p.m., when SB re-opens. Just in case you need a list of alternatives, Menupages has you covered.

The closure, you'll recall, is to allow for a massive retraining that "will provide a renewed focus on espresso standards that will help ensure the exceptional quality of every beverage," according to the company website. Good Hunting.

Starbucks Demonstrates Unprecedented Level of Commitment to Partner (Employee) Coffee Education and Training [Company Website]
San Francisco Cofeeshops [Menupages]

Grudge Match

blvd food.jpg
[Above: Any old hash house]

Snap! Michael Bauer and a whole bunch of SF Gate commenters are just about ready to throw down with Wall Street Journal writer Raymond Sokolov, after he described our great City By The Bay as "a big white blank" on the culinary map of Northern California.

In his Saturday Dining Out column, Sokolov slams the city in favor of the East Bay, where this brilliant new restaurant called Chez Panisse, run by revolutionary young chef Alice Waters, has introduced a whole generation to local, seasonal produce.

Meanwhile, San Francisco, also known as Hick Town USA, struggles to get more than two ingredients onto a plate without making the, um, "masticating classes" (Sokolov's words, not ours) barf.

Fortunately, Bauer and his readers have rushed to our city's defense, especially a commenter named JHV, who is so incensed he's gotten his metaphors in a bunch: "I say pay no attention to the man behind the curtain, because he's wearing no clothes."

Shoot, people like that are why people like Sokolov think we're all ignorant yokels with palates of clay. Better to just quietly enjoy dining at high-quality, mid-priced restaurants like SPQR, Range and Bar Tartine, and let the Sokolovs of the world book up the Fisherman's Wharf tours and tables at Boulevard .

Bay Watch [WSJ]
Is San Francisco a "big white blank"? [Between Meals]
SPQR [MenuPages]
SPQR [Official Site]
Range [MenuPages]
Range [Official Site]
Bar Tartine [MenuPages]
Bar Tartine [Official Site]
Boulevard [MenuPages]
Boulevard [Official Site]

Sizzler Vs. The Shack

joe's crab shackjpg.jpg

Following up on this story from yesterday about a man who opened fire on servers at Joe's Crab Shack after they tried to get him to, gasp, pay his bill: It's scary, yes. But what might be considered scarier by some is the fact that the discussion it sparked in the SF Gate comments was not one of how to curb crime in San Francisco, but rather a comparison of the finer points of dining at Sizzler.

For the record, there are no Sizzlers in San Francisco, but they exist in Albany, Hayward, Newark, San Leandro, Colma Burlingame, Daly City, Redwood City, Mountain View, San Jose, Santa Clara and Morgan Hill. Phew. Road trip, anyone?

Man held after diners eat, run and shoot [SF Chronicle]
Joe's Crab Shack [MenuPages]
Joe's Crab Shack [Official Site]
Sizzler [Official Site]

February 25, 2008

Smoke 'Em If You Got 'Em

Designated_Smoking_Corner.jpg

This is interesting: SFist picked up an item from Minnesota about bars working around the smoking ban by holding "theater nights," where customers can smoke because they are considered "actors." According to the original story, Minnesota law allows actors to smoke on stage. California's code is apparently similar.

But you don't have to wait for theater night. There are a handful of bars in the city at which you can smoke legally, whether they have ventilated-to-code smoking rooms, are owner operated or just don't care. The following Gridskipper post from last year will get you started on those.

Bars and Cigarettes: Together Again? [SFist]
Best Bars For Smoking In San Francisco [Gridskipper]

Beef Recall In Action

lunch3.jpg

You know how KALW is always reading the school lunch menus in its morning broadcast? Well, we didn't hear this, but it's definitely possible that last week they may have aired a bit of Morning Edition about that massive beef recall that hugely affected public schools, then heard a menu that included a beef item. If that gave you pause, the San Francisco Unified School District would like you to un-freeze. School district spokeswoman Gentle Blythe said today that the recall didn't affect San Francisco.

"SFUSD has not received any beef that was processed at Westland. That is true for the entire school year in 2008. When the recall came into being, we had nothing in stock, we had not served anything as of 2008. Any beef that has been on the menu since 2008 is not beef that was processed there."

In case you're curious, check out the SFUSD Website for the next couple months' menus.

Chicken Again?
[The Grinder]
'Marketplace' Report: Massive Beef Recall [NPR]
Student Nutrition Services [SFUSD]

Orson Opening

orson.jpg

Elizabeth Falkner's latest venture, Orson, flings open its doors tomorrow. The SoMa eatery will feature a menu that is, um, whimsical, to say the least. From the Daily Candy:


The focus of the menu: edgy Californian. Dishes like butterfish brûlée with caviar and radish play with technique. Small plates without borders run the globe from Japan to India (tempura egg with shoyu and spice, samosas with chutney and raita sorbet). Desserts, naturally, reach for the final frontier. Try the Pigwich (maple bacon ice cream sandwich) or a Wonka-esque “invisible dessert” (an intense concoction made with transparent ingredients).

Ooh, Butterfish. Well, there seems to be plenty else to choose from. And if the scene at Citizen Cake is any indication, you may want to get on the horn to that reservation line (available on the website) pretty early tomorrow. Check back here soon for the menu.

Orson [Official Site]
Citizen Cake [MenuPages]
Citizen Cake [Official Site]

Pizza Etang: Rocktopus

This video, which we picked up from Serious Eats, may be a commercial for a South Korean pizza joint, but we think it could do well in San Francisco. It's got a bunch of our local favorite themes, including hyphy style, gener-bending and Vespas, not to mention pizza with crazy toppings such as octopus.

While several restaurants in San Francisco serve octopus, none appears to serve it on pizza. This could be a growth industry. You listening Mr. Etang? Even chain-averse San Francisco might be won over by this commercial and welcome a franchise.

In Videos: Pizza Etang Commercial with Mr. Tyfoon; The Global Mashup [Slice]

Where to find Octopus in San Francisco:
SoMa/Mission
Downtown/Waterfront
Haight/Castro/Noe Valley
Marina/Heights
Sunset
Richmond

Threads Up: Lone Wolf

canteen.jpg

An itinerant Chowhound cast a bottle into the inter-waves Friday containing a message of resonance to all who find themselves downtown with an appetite and no date: Where to dine solo around Union Square. This particular conference attendee seems to want a higher caliber joint than the taqueria to which we'd try to send him or her, and the Chowhounds responded in kind. Many suggested Canteen, which the OP took under advisement.

It's a tricky question to recommend a restaurant in this situation, as solo dining preferences seem to be less predictable than for diners with company. One person's idea of the perfect solo restaurant may be one with bright enough lighting to read by, while another's may be one with a lively singles scene. In this case, the diner seems to be focused primarily on the actual food, and even provides a detailed, delicious-sounding report. Is it lunch time yet?

Dining alone, Fri. night in Union Sq.
[Chowhound]
Canteen [MenuPages]
Canteen [Official Site]

February 22, 2008

The Chronicle Over Cocktails

Sign_Cocktail.jpeg

Here's your pre-happy hour roundup of the San Francisco Chronicle's Friday wine section. Straight, no chaser!

The lead story takes a look at Yamahai, a particular type of sake that is gaining a foothold in the States. [Yamahai warriors]

Selections dives in and opens its eyes under the surface in the world of Shiraz. [Selections]

And to go with that Shiraz, a nice bowl of Khoresh, natch. [Pairings]

A few weeks late to the punch, Jim Clarke takes a look at extreme brews, but while the New York Times focused on Novato's Moylan's Brewery, Clarke ranges far and wide, to Portland and Boston. [Extreme Brews Go Higher]

And the Sipping News showcases a nifty new type of wine bottle stopper. [Gadget: Silicone Wine Stoppers]

Video Dining Roundup

Here are a couple of local restaurant videos for a Friday afternoon. We've decided to start posting more of these, as it seems everyone in this town is armed with a video camera all the time, and they all put their dining experiences up on YouTube. Sometimes it's a great way to get a peek inside some of the city's restaurants. Other times, it's a very undergrad outing. The great thing about video as oppose to real life, however, is that it has a "stop" button.

The first one features some white-hat-style reggae fans working very hard to finish off their giant, boot-shaped glasses of beer at Suppenkuche:

Next, we get a year-old, but only recently posted tour of the wine cellar and proscuitto room at North Beach Restaurant . Pretty hokey, but interesting visuals. Maybe turn the sound off:

Suppenkuche [MenuPages]
Suppenkuche [Official Site]
North Beach Restaurant [MenuPages]
North Beach Restaurant [Official Site]

Fennel Forever

fennel.jpg

Fennel has recently leaped to the front of the spice cabinet at the MPSF test kitchen, after we finally got around to making this chicken recipe the Amateur Gourmet ran some months ago. It is, by the way, amazing.

Now here comes local fave Amy Sherman with a recipe for fennel shrimp. Interestingly (very interestingly) it uses Pernod as well as fresh fennel. Sounds good enough to try this weekend, plus you get a digestif after dinner in the leftover Pernod.

Also, the SF Weekly asserts that fennel grows wild all over the city: "waist-high, pale-green fronds under the freeway overpass, anyone?" We had no idea.

Fennel Shrimp:Recipe [Cooking With Amy]
AGTV: How To Roast A Chicken [Amateur Gourmet]

The Last Detail

Outgoing Sens pastry chef and Eggbeater blogger Shuna Lydon has posted her final dessert menu on her blog. It includes a lot of chocolaty/fruity/eggy things and makes us very hungry.

According to Eater SF, a member of the Sens team, Shelly Fields, will take Lydon's place. Lydon's departure has caused some amount of buzz that Sens might be in trouble, because, according to Eater SF,

The pastry chef is often the first to go when restaurants begin to cut costs, but in many ways, Lydon—a veteran of biggies like Gramercy Tavern, Citizen Cake, Bouchon, the French Laundry, etc—was the main attraction, so we'd say it's safe to begin casting nervous glances toward Sens.

In the meantime, if you want to get a taste of Lydon's final menu, you'd better get in there in the next two weeks.

My Last Dessert Menu ~ [Eggbeater]
EaterWire AM Edition: Fifth Floor Returns, Sens Gets New Pastry Chef [Eater SF]

Booze Ban II: Liquor Stores

LiquorBan05.JPG

Remember that hearing a few weeks ago where the Planning Commission batted around legislation that would restrict liquor licenses in two neighborhoods? Well, welcome to the sequel:This time it's citywide, and about off-sales. A new measure approved by the Board of Supes' Rules Committee would severely limit the opening of new liquor, wine and beer-selling stores. From the Examiner:

Proposed by Supervisor Gerardo Sandoval, the measure would prohibit new liquor stores from opening up within about two blocks (500 feet) of other liquor stores, schools and children’s recreation centers.

There are nearly 900 businesses permitted to sell liquor for off-site consumption in San Francisco, about 450 more, Sandoval said, than allowed under a 1998 state law that caps permits at one per 1,250 city residents


While Sandoval's measure gained the support of the committee, it has its detractors. The issue is not so much altering the city's zoning laws, but rather doing so this drastically through a ballot measure.
“Are we sure we want to forever ban any new wine shops in Fisherman’s Wharf through a ballot initiative?” [Mayor's Office of Economic and Workforce Development deputy director Rich] Hillis said.

Remember, this is the same Gerardo Sandoval who wants to force grocery stores to stick around, especially in under-served neighborhoods like the Tenderloin and the Excelsior. We have to wonder, if they couldn't sell beer or two-buck-Chuck, what new Trader Joe's would have us?

Supervisor looks to limit liquor licenses [Examiner]
North Beach Booze Ban? [MPSF]
Resolution urging Albertsons not to close Oceanview Village location [Board of Supes]

February 21, 2008

Starbucks Slash

starbucks_escher-767149.jpg

Several versions of the Business Times, including San Jose and Sacramento, carried the story today that Starbucks is cutting about 600 jobs. New-ish CEO Howard Schultz said the company would lay off 220 employees and leave 380 more jobs unfilled after they are vacated.

"Unfortunately, we have not been organized in a manner that allowed us to have a laser focus on the customer," Schultz wrote.

There are 10 Starbucks locations in San Francisco, and a whole bunch more in the greater Bay Area. It has not been announced where the cuts will take place.

Starbucks realigning, cutting 600 jobs [Silcon Valley/San Jose Business Journal]
Starbucks [Main Site]

Eggs-cellent!

egg sandwich.jpg

Uh oh, looks like Michael Bauer's got a hot scoop: People totally love eggs! Actually, we kid, but it's noteworthy that eggs aren't just for breakfast anymore, at least for the general public. We've been frying them up for spaghetti and dropping them into soups for years.

As Bauer points out, the recent trend of featuring eggs in a starring role on higher-end menus has led to the development of egg pedigrees. Can't wait to break a couple Niman jumbos into that mixing bowl.

With any luck, this trend will continue long enough for us to get a franchise of Hong Kong's Australia Dairy Company. That egg sandwich looks good enough to take home and make friends with, let alone eat. We'd all have to fall pretty madly in love with eggs, though, and see it through the long haul. As far as we can tell here, ADC is not even a chain. [Via Serious Eats]

Which came first: the idea or the egg? [Between Meals]
australia dairy company [tasty treats!]

I Drink Your Blood! I Drink It Up!

blood_orange.jpg

We were staring at the computer screen, going cross-eyed, when two items on our blogroll got intermingled.

First, Gridskipper posted a somewhat morbid "bloodlust" guide to the city, including information on boxing, Bondage A-Go-Go's regular "blood wrestling" events, a vampire tour and the Red Cross.

Then, we noticed Yumsugar had up a weird-but-good-sounding recipe for a blood orange milkshake:


Blood Orange Milkshake
Adapted from Roger's Trinbago and inspired by There Will Be Blood

2 cups milk
6 scoops vanilla ice cream
1 blood orange peeled, seeded and divided into segments

1. Pour the milk into the blender.
2. Add ice cream and blend for three minutes.
3. Add orange segments. Blend for two minutes.
4. Pour into a large glass.
5. Garnish with a really long straw.

And a post was born. Please forgive us. It's a slow news day and we weren't invited to Florida for the big food fest thing. MP South Florida was, though. Check it out.

Satisfy Your Bloodlust in San Francisco [Gridskipper]
TV Dinners: There Will Be Blood — Blood Orange Milkshake [Yumsugar]

Changing Lines

nopa.jpg

Today we got the first soundoff from Richie over at the blog Line Cook, after he joined the team at the highly regarded Nopa. Things sound good for him, and there are some lovely pictures up on the blog.

It'll be interesting to have a perspective from within the kitchen at this particular restaurant, since those in the know practically fall over themselves to praise it. Witness Jordan Mackay's recent stroke job regarding the bar. Not that it and other lavish praise is not well deserved. Nopa has a good thing going with its fresh, local ingredients, careful process and apparent respect for the community. We look forward to hearing from Richie on the other side of the line.

Awesometown (Nopa, San Francisco)
Nopa [MenuPages]
Nopa [Official Site]

Fifth Floor's New Do

5th floor pre.jpg
[Above: the old look. Click through to Thrillist for the new.]

Word comes this morning that Fifth Floor, the restaurant at the hotel Palomar has re-opened after it's little makeover. According to Thrillist,

Relaunched after a culinary and aesthetic overhaul, the Hotel Palomar resto [sic] is stepping back into the opulent date-spot fray, minus the swarms of obsequious servers and table linens so white they seared the naked eye. Decor's similarly tweaked, with modern, vaguely asian appointments, a marble communal table, and loungey leather chairs/banquettes as overstuffed as your wallet will soon not be. But the modernized Gascon fare, cheffed up by Aqua and Ame vets, is nonetheless top-notch: chestnut soup, cured sea scallops w/ caviar, and "poule au pot" -- poached free-range chicken stuffed with foie gras and a starry-eyed dream to convert Cambodia into an agrarian utopia.

If you remember, back in January the San Francisco Chronicle's Inside Scoop column reported that Aqua and Cafe de la Presse vet Laurent Manrique would act as chef consultant, and Jennie Lorenzo, who stinted as executive chef at Ame, will do the day-to-day cooking. The front of the front of the house has also been converted into a no-reservations cafe.

Look for an updated listing on our site over the next day or so. Meanwhile, here's a copy, courtesy of Thrillist, of the new menu.

Fifth Floor's new menu [Thrillist]
Inside Scoop [SF Chronicle]
Fifth Floor [MenuPages]
Fifth Floor [Official Site]
Aqua [MenuPages]
Aqua [Official Site]
Ame [MenuPages]
Ame [Official Site]

February 20, 2008

The Weeklies Over Coffee

Coffee_Mug.jpg

Paul Reidinger eloquently stomps his foot on the ground and shakes his fist at the pests who ate the lemons off his tree. [Requiem for a lemon]

Ailene Sankur takes an enthusiastic look at A La Turca

Reidinger Similarly loves Monk's Kettle which he labels a "hipster tavern." [Monk's Kettle]

LE Leone faces off with a skunk, which has nothing to do with San Francisco restaurants. [Cheap Eats

Meanwhile, over at the San Francisco Weekly:

Meredith Brody is back, paying a visit to Local, which she likes so much she even mentions it in the first paragraph. [Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant: Bland Name for Bomb Food]

Shuna Lydon Leaving Sens

shuna.jpg

Here's a news item that will eventually make waves in the local food-blog scene: Shuna Lydon is reportedly leaving Sens. The star pastry chef and creator/writer of the blog Eggbeater was asked to resign, according to Eater SF, as a cost-cutting move. From Eater SF:

The pastry chef is often the first to go when restaurants begin to cut costs, but in many ways, Lydon—a veteran of biggies like Gramercy Tavern, Citizen Cake, Bouchon, the French Laundry, etc—was the main attraction, so we'd say it's safe to begin casting nervous glances toward Sens.

For her part, Lydon hasn't so far explicitly mentioned anything about the decision on Eggbeater, where she seems to be dealing with larger issues, including a sick friend. Jesus, what a rough week. Condolences.

EaterWire AM Edition: Sens Loses Shuna Lydon
Eggbeater [Homepage]

Pirates Of The Kitchen

scd_jollyroger.jpg

What a great post from Gridskipper on secret dining. Sort of in the tradition of Food Not Bombs or the Anarchist Cafe, only way, way better, the trend of gourmet chefs making and selling dinners in secret or unofficial locations has really taken hold in recent years. It's not good to give these things too much press, but GS does a pretty good job of shrouding the identities of those involved. Intrigue!

Secret Dining in San Francisco [Gridskipper]
Subculture Dining [Dissidentchef]

The Blender

As a preview to this afternoon's Weeklies Over Coffee, here's our weekly re-publishing of the San Francisco Bay Guardian's Blender. Enjoy.

(1) Hot oatmeal with fruit, Martin de Porres House of Hospitality

(2) Croissant salmon and Drunken Duck, Tangerine

(3) Carne asada burrito, El Beach Burrito

(4) Cognac-glazed Muscovy duck, Triptych

(5) Jamaican chicken, Laurel's Cuban Restaurant

The Blender [SFBG]

The Chronicle Over Coffee

Coffee_Mug.jpg

Here's your Wednesday morning roundup of the San Francisco Chronicle's weekly food section. Caution: It's hot!

The lead story, a big feature on Martin Yan, got us grinning from ear to ear. We don't lavish nearly enough praise on that guy around here. [MARTIN YAN'S CAN-DO ATTITUDE]

Amanda Gold visits Sudachi for this week's second review of a Japanese restaurant to use the word "riff" in the headline. [Dining Out: Sudachi riffs on Japanese classics]

Taster's Choice looks at frozen lasagna and likes Michael Angelo's best. [Panel warms to just one frozen lasagna]

Get ready for slow food, a new chef at the Ritz-Carlton and another at Campton Place. [Inside Scoop]

Tuscan kale is in no short supply right now, and is making its way into all sorts of recipes. [The Seasonal Cook

Some lighter recipes might help ease the Valentine's Day hangover [South to North]

February 19, 2008

"Pickles Are Destroying My Life"

Hopefully you're not tired of the videos here. This one comes from no less than the New York Times' main food critic, Frank Bruni, who calls it "bizarrely riveting" in his Diner's Journal blog. Wouldn't go that far, but it is bizarrely hilarious. From the excellent quote that gave this piece its title to the site of Maury Povich actually chasing a blonde, blubbering lunatic around his auditorium with a pickle, there is much comic gold here.

At first it was annoying listening to this girl whimper and sob over the mere thought of pickles, but as you see her scamper, terrified, across the floor of a New Jersey pickle factory, you realize the annoyance stems from a desire to see her fear mollified. Before too long, that desire fades and you quickly start wishing she would trip and fall in a vat of pickles. It's a good exercise in losing sympathy.

Also sympathy robbing: The part when she says that, in her job as a waitress, she'll tell a customer they're out of pickles just so she won't have to handle one. That's effed up.




Attack of the Killer Pickles
[NYT Diner's Journal]

More Tales From The Jungle

Looks like there's more to the story of the giant beef recall spurred by a Chino slaughterhouse and packing plant that killed and packed so-called "downer" cows in violation of federal safety standards.

The AP is reporting that police arrested one man Saturday for animal cruelty and illegally moving non-ambulatory animals. A second is wanted on three misdemeanor charges.

Hallmark/Westland pen manager Daniel Ugarte Navarro, 49, was arrested at his house in Pomona. His subordinate, Luis Sanchez, 32, of Chino, remains at large. From the AP, as published by SF Gate:

Both men were fired after the Humane Society of the United States released undercover video showing crippled and sick animals at the slaughterhouse being shoved with forklifts.

Prosecutors are continuing to investigate the slaughterhouse for possible labor violations, Ploghaus said.

Officials with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which announced the recall Sunday of some 143 million pounds of beef products dating to Feb. 1, 2006, were also investigating.

So it's not just a case of animal cruelty and unsafe food production, it's potentially a labor issue, too? The two go together, as you've no doubt read: Chino will be ours! Chino will be ours!

Massive Beef Recall
[MPSF]
Chino meatpacking worker arrested in recall case [SF Gate]

Within The Marbled Halls

Victoria_Reynolds_Kiss_the_Fat_2005_617_42.jpg


Victoria Reynolds'
works glow dimly like some mid-17th century oil painting, maybe of a scene from Paradise Lost or the Inferno. Swirling reds and whites and shadows evoke a distinct sense of butchery... Well, maybe that's more because they actually are paintings of meat, lovingly rendered with a sensitivity toward detail and light reminiscent of Rembrandt or some other pioneering Dutch master. Or something.

But we are not art historians. Not by a long shot. We've been to a few museums--some in Europe, even--and seen paintings that looked like Reynolds', but honestly this is kind of a new jam for us: The meat portrait. Reynolds is an oil painter who specializes in renderings of meats of all kinds. From the bright, cheerful 2003 Pimenti Dimenti to her her dark, hulking 2005 Reindeer Viscera, Reynolds explores the subtle aesthetics of meat with a probing, revealing brush.

These paintings are compelling, for sure, and weirdly beautiful. We'd wonder snidely just who would want to pay thousands of dollars for them if many hadn't already been sold. Now we're wondering hopefully if she'll team up for some portraits with the meat hats people. Cross those fingers.
[Via Serious Eats]

Meat Paintings [Serious Eats]
Victoria Reynolds' paintings [Richard Heller gallery]

Tales Of El Toro: The First Review Of The Rest Of Your Life

el toro sign.jpg
[Image courtesy of Eater SF]

Dang, no rest for the weary today. Burritoeater mildly harshed the newly re-opened El Toro Taqueria with a 7.58-mustache shrug-fest:

Construction was impervious to failure, and we quite enjoyed the pea/carrot-flecked Spanish rice. But serious cheese-related gaffes and an overall feeling of lovelessness had us yawning our way through our porky meal. The slab’s dull vibe was introduced by the merely-there tortilla (ungrilled and even unsteamed, on our watch) and continued on through the harmless spiciness.

It's too bad, but not unexpected, considering the reputation of this particular Mission stalwart and its mother ship, Pancho Villa Taqueria. These are some of the workhorse taquerias in the Mission and we appreciate their role, but they just don't bring in the hard-won raves like a Castillito or a San Francisco, even with a face-lift, it seems.

Taqueria El Toro [Burritoeater]
El Toro Taqueria [MenuPages]
Pancho Villa Taqueria [MenuPages]
Pancho Villa Taqueria [Official Site]
Taqueria El Castillito [MenuPages]
Taqueria San Francisco [MenuPages]

The Legitimate NIMBY?

waterbar view.jpg

Talk about a public caning. Amid the trumpets and fireworks and cherubs and whatever else Pat Kuleto has thrown money at to celebrate the opening of Waterbar and Epic Roasthouse on the Embarcadero, San Francisco Chronicle urban design writer John King took him and his new restaurants to the mat in an A-1 story that rips into the new buildings like massive, inky fingers popping a zit on the city's forehead:


It's all grand atmospheric fun, especially if you can afford a $45 strip steak or a $75 dish of Maine lobster. But drop these stage sets into Rincon Park on San Francisco's downtown waterfront, and they become something else: incongruous impositions on a landscape that doesn't need to be gussied up.

Whatever knee-jerk reaction you may have to the NIMBY-ism that prevents a lot of development from taking place in this city, you have to admit that these two buildings--reportedly the first newly constructed restaurant-only buildings in the city in more than 100 years, really are in your backyard. They were built in a public park along a public waterfront, so their interaction with the public--and not just the high-end dining public--should come to the fore of the discussion. For all the inane discussion it will spur, King has done the city a service by walking up to the elephant in the room and yanking on its trunk.

There will likely be some formal reviews of the restaurants' food in the coming weeks, after which we can start to get a more fully fleshed impression of how the press likes them. So far, the public has chimed in with mixed reviews of both, mostly enjoying the food and views but griping about the service.

Meanwhile, King makes some pretty solid and easily implementable suggestions on how to improve the relationship between the new private space and existing public space. If Mr. Kuleto doesn't want his new babies to be relegated to a grudgingly received tourist trap, he should probably take note.

Kuleto's newest: posh, out of place [SF Chronicle]
Epic Roasthouse [MenuPages]
Epic Roasthouse [Official Site]
Waterbar [MenuPages]
Waterbar [Official Site]

February 18, 2008

In Denial?

Ha: Bunrabs' Guttenberg has apparently made a bet with cohort Chubby that he can go three days without coffee without getting a headache. From what we can tell from the site, Guttenberg drinks coffee every day. Well, our money's on Chubby. Once, we forgot coffee on a week-long camping trip and were rewarded with one, solid, week-long migraine. There is no way Guttenberg is winning this bet.

On the other hand, the pictures are nice.

Is "Addicted" a Bad Word? [Bunrabs]

Benihana, The Movie

One cool thing about living in such a food- and technology-obsessed town is that people often go out to dinner, record the experience on video then put the video up on TouTube. Actually, that leaves us with a lot of tedious and badly shot video, but sometimes you come across a gem, like this series on Benihana in Japantown, posted by a user named Bryankath. Click on the first one below to go through all of them. They'r