Ask The Chef: Norman Van Aken
We recently got a chance to exchange e-mails with Norman Van Aken, who is currently busy launching his biggest project yet: Tavern-n-Town at the Beachside Resort & Conference Center in Key West. Tavern is open, but Town's opening has been delayed until early January. We asked the local culinary legend a few questions about the new project and how it feels to be back in Key West.
MP: Norman’s in Coral Gables. Lots of people miss it. What was the reason for closing? Did you feel you needed to do that to focus on the Key West restaurant?
Norman: The Key West project was the biggest of my career from the standpoint of number of outlets. We operate two restaurants, the pool bar restaurant, room service and banquets for up to 400. I don’t think we could have accomplished it by visiting it alone so moving was necessary. We had the greatest 12 years imaginable in Coral Gables. Perhaps one day we will return in a “five star hotel” as we are in the Ritz Carlton in Orlando with Norman’s there.
MP: Key West is where you got your start in the culinary world, if I’m not mistaken. What has it been like going back and opening a restaurant there? What’s been the community response?
Norman: Key West is where I got the calling to be a Chef. I did have one job as a cook in my native Illinois but I hitchhiked to Key West in 1973 and started cooking at an all night barbeque place called The Midget. I remained learning my craft for the better part of the next 15 years. Then it was on to Miami for 17 years. To come back to Key West has been wonderful. I missed the water and the architecture of the Keys. The community has responded with genuine warmth and appreciation about my decision to return. We have high season just ahead of us and I look forward to all of the Key West citizens who love good food to join in with the visitors to make “Tavern N Town” a fantastic addition to the island.
MP: How has Key West changed since the first time you were there?
Norman: Key West has changed dramatically in regards to land values. But the essence of Key West has not changed completely despite what some say. This town is one of the oldest in Florida and its basic character has resisted the pre-fabricated feel of so many other places that have sprung up in Florida in the last decade. There’s no doubt that many folks have sold to move to less expensive places to live but that is true of Aspen and Martha’s Vineyard. Yet still the reason folks visit is the inimitable charm of Key West. Bicycles and loud roosters still rule the streets and the magical sunsets still light up a daunting range of colors each evening.
MP: How did you come up with the concept of having two restaurants in one? My understanding is that Town will be a bit more upscale than Tavern, but in what other ways will the two be different? How are dishes chosen for each menu?
Norman: I love to eat and prepare food that is authentic and regional. I also like to present very simple, (but tasty) food as I do quite inventive creations I come up with. When I was presented with the dynamic of a resort's needs, (breakfast, lunch and dinner) I was aware that we could do that in a unique way. Tavern is like a great timeless place with high ceilings, rich woods, handsome wrought iron, natural stone and a vibrant open kitchen featuring a center “tapas” case the chefs on the hot line work right out of. The menu contains timeless classics too. French Onion Soup, Oysters on the Half Shell, Conch Chowder, Ceviches, Wood Grilled Steaks and Key West’s famous fish cooked on a Spanish Plancha fill the air with a beckoning array of aromas.
Town is located in the dining room furthest from the entrance as an “oasis” of luxury and refinement. The appointments are luxurious with Bernardaud and Isabella Lam china, Sambonnet flatware and Italian tablecloths and napkins. The chairs are all cream leather “Captain’s” style and the dining room is suffused with a flattering light. Town is open for dinner only and it will be where guests can experience my “Tasting Menus”.
MP: What’s your favorite/signature dish on the menu? Is there a dish you’d like to serve but aren’t sure the public would take to it?
Norman: I have a slew of “signature dishes”. The guests “elect” them and they become very possessive of them! I’m not sure I could ever pick just one. If I must though I’d say “My Creamy Cracked Conch Chowder with Citrus, Saffron and Coconut Milk”. (Today!)
I am a true Omnivore! I love things like sweetbreads and octopus…but I won’t make it something anyone else has to accept.
MP: Where do you draw your inspiration? Do you have any favorite restaurants in South Florida?
Norman: I draw my inspiration from the intricate and lively food histories and the exotic markets of Florida.
My favorite place to eat when I’m not cooking is home. But take me to Spain…and I’ll tell you a few.
Norman Van Aken's Key West Restaurant Opens Later This Month [MP: South Florida]
Beachside Resort & Conference Center [Official Site]
Tavern-n-Town [MenuPages]
